Different than I remembered from my childhood, sort of. I actually deeply enjoyed the slapstick silliness of the plot, where there was plot, more than I did the more 'literary' elements.
(And, overall, I'm impressed with how nonliterary the Greatest American Novel actually is. Hooray for Vernacular America!)
The book isn't entirely about race, but nearly so. Interesting that as a kid I missed a lot of it, when it seems to dominate most pages. I must have just trained my junior self to skip lightly across the n words and massive amounts of racism, and as a result missed the point of so much of it being there.
Of course poor Jim gets left out of a lot of the action, but his plight as frequently-shackled-and/or-costumed sidekick is hard to bear nonetheless. I think I can see Twain's approach: he starts with a caricature, and works in the real man gradually until the reader is unable to think of him as a caricature anymore. Though, it's too bad it stops midway through the process. I finished the book this morning and now I can't stop thinking: now that Jim's free, will he be able to rescue his wife and children? Where will he go and how will he support himself?
Of course, Huck as narrator is colorfully oblivious to a lot of things, and attentive to others. I find it believable that he'd leave out many things we'd want to know. But I wish the balance was shifted just a little.
The parts Jim gets left out of are interesting too- the small-town cons, the portrait of complicated little riverside farm families, the ways church and community and commerce and whiskey entangle. In some ways this would've still been an excellent, maybe even a less flawed, book, without Jim and slavery at all. But having such a deeply weighty theme throws all this other stuff to the side and makes the book slop water across the bows. Which, I suppose is why it's not a good book but a great one.
I know a lot of people are deeply bothered by the tacked-on ending with Tom Sawyer, and I suppose I'm a little annoyed by it too. But that's mostly because Tom Sawyer himself is so irritating: smarmy, self-important, and cushioned. Compared to Huck and Jim, he's a spoiled bourgeois with an elevated sense of entitlement. (Maybe he's intended to be annoying?) It seems very telling that Huck undergoes great moral terror to free Jim-- in his mind, it's burn in hell, or betray someone he loves, and he chooses hell. But Tom makes the decision because he knows it doesn't matter, and he wants to play make-believe.
The silliness of the plot itself during the end section is pretty great in many ways though.