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When Jerry Moffatt burst onto the scene as a brash 17-year-old, rock climbing had never seen anyone like him before. Fiercely ambitious, even as a boy Moffatt was focused on one being the best in the world. This is the story of his meteoric rise to stardom and how he overcame injury to stay at the top for over two decades.
Top sport climber, brilliant competitor, and a pioneer in the new game of bouldering, Moffatt's story is that of climbing itself in the last 30 years. Yet Jerry Moffatt is more than a dedicated athlete. Travelling the world to fulfill his dreams, his story is a compelling and often hilarious account of the climbing community with all its glories, dangers, and foibles as well as the story of a true sporting legend.
Top sport climber, brilliant competitor, and a pioneer in the new game of bouldering, Moffatt's story is that of climbing itself in the last 30 years. Yet Jerry Moffatt is more than a dedicated athlete. Travelling the world to fulfill his dreams, his story is a compelling and often hilarious account of the climbing community with all its glories, dangers, and foibles as well as the story of a true sporting legend.
256 pages, Hardcover
First published February 11, 2009
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315 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews
July 10, 2023
Fire book for climbing 🔥🔥🧗
If you climb you gotta read this shit. Simple as.
If you climb you gotta read this shit. Simple as.
March 1, 2018
For someone who is just a weekend warrior and kinda takes all the good stuff in climbing for granted (shoes, equipment, the Moon Board and campus board, etiquette etc.), this book was an incredible read.
Indeed, not many people could do what Jerry and his friends did and that actually makes them legends. We can only look up to them and thank them for making this sport what it is today.
Indeed, not many people could do what Jerry and his friends did and that actually makes them legends. We can only look up to them and thank them for making this sport what it is today.
August 5, 2019
You probably need to be into climbing for this one, but if you are there are plenty of fun anecdotes here. The book covers the highlights of Jerry's career, mostly in the 80s and 90s - from dossing at Stoney Middleton to tours in India and Yosemite, and of course there are a few mentions of Sheffield too. He's got an ego but since he also worked incredibly hard I'm inclined to let him off.
August 17, 2018
When I picked up this book from the Banff Film Festival office, it looked like it had never been read. I have no idea how this book won the grand prize, though I will say Niall Grimes wrote brilliantly about Jerry Moffatt climbing rocks on multiple continents, something many other people in the 1980s did. Having read about Paul Pritchard, Alex MacIntyre and other British climbers around the same time as Jerry, I can't imagine I'd give him "best climber" status. Paul still inspires people with his resilience, after his accident on the Totem Pole. Alex MacIntyre designed climbing equipment, Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman left a literary legacy. Climbing is more than routes, it's about the people we inspire and take with us on the journey. The Jerry Moffatt story is nothing more than a beautifully written ego trip.
January 2, 2025
Fascinating insight into the development of rock climbing in the 80’s and 90’s with one of the most successful and fiercest climbers of the era.
Well written and carefully constructed, largely chronological it is a good autobiography that has interesting stories about the key characters on the ‘scene’ but probably not a book that non-climbers would be able to relate to due to the often technical terminology used
Well written and carefully constructed, largely chronological it is a good autobiography that has interesting stories about the key characters on the ‘scene’ but probably not a book that non-climbers would be able to relate to due to the often technical terminology used
July 27, 2024
really really really great book. lots of interesting and funny stories. i’m excited to continue to climb and i have so much to learn…will be rereading it again in a couple months maybe
September 13, 2014
It is most certainly not a book for non-climbers. The endless lists of E7's, E8's, 8c's, 5.13's would test the patience of even the most enthuastic non-climbing reader. But it is a fascinating trip down memory lane and the golden age of climbing, not only sportclimbing, but climbing in general, for those of us who only followed the likes of Jerry Moffatt, and many of the other stars of the 80's, that he gives little oblique insights into, because of our interest in more traditional climbs, big walls, the Alps, etc.
Only towards the end of the book does he tie up a number of questions that I asked myself throughout the first two thirds of the book. He devotes a chapter to how he financed all of this and built some financial security for himself as he got married and had children. The last few chapters gives some slight insights into who he is as a person.
It seems a pity that the most exciting time in climbing is not represented in better quality narratives about the era, on par with the accounts of Joe Brown, Don Whillains, Mo Antoine and others who made their mark from the fifties to the seventies.
I gave Johnny Dawes
a try for a page or two, before deciding that it is perhaps a bit esoteric for my taste. Shall get going on Ron Fawcett
in the next few months. That will give a better idea of where Jerry Moffatt's book fit in. It is nevertheless a worthwhile read, on a subject and an era with a pausity of good accounts, and for me a pleasantly nostalgia inducing read.
Only towards the end of the book does he tie up a number of questions that I asked myself throughout the first two thirds of the book. He devotes a chapter to how he financed all of this and built some financial security for himself as he got married and had children. The last few chapters gives some slight insights into who he is as a person.
It seems a pity that the most exciting time in climbing is not represented in better quality narratives about the era, on par with the accounts of Joe Brown, Don Whillains, Mo Antoine and others who made their mark from the fifties to the seventies.
I gave Johnny Dawes
a try for a page or two, before deciding that it is perhaps a bit esoteric for my taste. Shall get going on Ron Fawcett
in the next few months. That will give a better idea of where Jerry Moffatt's book fit in. It is nevertheless a worthwhile read, on a subject and an era with a pausity of good accounts, and for me a pleasantly nostalgia inducing read. 
March 6, 2018
Really enjoyed reading this book, following Jerry's journey into climbing, his experiences discovering training techniques and his meetings with other climbers throughout his life.
Jerry's passion for climbing is infectious and his triumphs working through problems, setting new routes and flashing world class epic climbs really inspire me to keep up with the training.
A cautionary tale: Jerry's experiences with injuries and his absolute commitment to stay at the top through gruelling competitions, punishing training and harsh dieting ultimately resulted in him leaving the sport all together, he was all or nothing. Jerry can't just climb for the fun of it so he plays golf and surfs instead but his routes are there forever.
Jerry's passion for climbing is infectious and his triumphs working through problems, setting new routes and flashing world class epic climbs really inspire me to keep up with the training.
A cautionary tale: Jerry's experiences with injuries and his absolute commitment to stay at the top through gruelling competitions, punishing training and harsh dieting ultimately resulted in him leaving the sport all together, he was all or nothing. Jerry can't just climb for the fun of it so he plays golf and surfs instead but his routes are there forever.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
August 14, 2023
What a great Insight into Jerry's life. wonderfully told this book goes through everything from putting everything on the line and not getting any financial support for a passion, too working as a professional athlete and all the struggles that come with that and then dealing with the end of your career.
you will not just learn about Jerry but also learn a lot about the mindset needed for being an athlete, how to gain self confidence, how to deal with major injuries and what it takes to be an athlete.
you will not just learn about Jerry but also learn a lot about the mindset needed for being an athlete, how to gain self confidence, how to deal with major injuries and what it takes to be an athlete.
November 4, 2023
5/5 for climbing reads.
A great story of determination and dedication. This book made really understand that if you want to get somewhere with something, or even just get an understanding of what you are doing, you need to fully commit to it. At the begininning of his climbing life Moffatt used to live and sleep at the crag with all his belongings, that didn´t included money, in his backpack. The drive of just wanting to climb and be the best at it got him to stand with the gods in the climbing Olympus.
A great story of determination and dedication. This book made really understand that if you want to get somewhere with something, or even just get an understanding of what you are doing, you need to fully commit to it. At the begininning of his climbing life Moffatt used to live and sleep at the crag with all his belongings, that didn´t included money, in his backpack. The drive of just wanting to climb and be the best at it got him to stand with the gods in the climbing Olympus.
March 30, 2025
A great piece of climbing history.
You have to be a climbing nerd to appreciate this book, but if you are, you'll find several great stories about how climbing as a sport came to be.
However, you’ll have to put up with a self-centered author who is the best in the world in almost everything.
But again - a great piece of climbing history.
You have to be a climbing nerd to appreciate this book, but if you are, you'll find several great stories about how climbing as a sport came to be.
However, you’ll have to put up with a self-centered author who is the best in the world in almost everything.
But again - a great piece of climbing history.
August 15, 2018
Brilliant read and super inspiring! If you're a climber and haven't read it, do it now!
I actually read the mental training chapter during a climbing trip - ticking my hardest redpoint with an improved approach. Cheers Jerry!
I actually read the mental training chapter during a climbing trip - ticking my hardest redpoint with an improved approach. Cheers Jerry!
March 22, 2023
surprisingly compelling
I really enjoyed this read. It’s a great insight into the mind and life of a seriously dedicated climber who dominated the scene (with one or two others) in his day.
Thoroughly enjoyable.
I really enjoyed this read. It’s a great insight into the mind and life of a seriously dedicated climber who dominated the scene (with one or two others) in his day.
Thoroughly enjoyable.
April 3, 2024
One of the best climbing biographies to date.
Definitely a book for climbers and would be a fairly hard read sprinkled with extensive climbing vocabulary for everyone else.
I absolutely enjoyed the storytelling, various aspects and interesting thought angles from Jerry Moffatt.
Definitely a book for climbers and would be a fairly hard read sprinkled with extensive climbing vocabulary for everyone else.
I absolutely enjoyed the storytelling, various aspects and interesting thought angles from Jerry Moffatt.
January 28, 2019
An excellent read!! I was gripped from the introduction to the final page!
November 12, 2019
Best sport/climbing book ever written
February 20, 2021
I spent 10% of my time reading this thinking Moffat was an arrogant prick, and the other 90% smiling. Fair trade.
April 5, 2021
Amazing book, with very insightful, page-turning stories about climbing and about Jerry and his life journey, tightly recommend especially to climbers but also to anyone.
October 5, 2021
Most inspirational climbing book
January 1, 2022
A must read for every climber.
March 22, 2022
Bit dull towards the end but good overall
April 5, 2022
A cracker, I will write more when awake
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
April 11, 2023
Sleeping in a rat filled shed is aid.
June 24, 2023
This honestly feels like a life changing book to me. It felt incredibly emotional to finish it.
January 24, 2024
Seems like a bit of a wanker. In a good way.
I’ll have The Joker by 30, mark my words.
I’ll have The Joker by 30, mark my words.
June 23, 2024
Best climbing related book I’ve read, more relatable than the early 21st century pipe smoking ledge shufflers. It puts the fire of a life well lived underneath me.
December 2, 2024
Cool insight into the not so popular but definitely just as good English climbers from the 80s.
February 12, 2025
Jerry Moffatt is an absolute mad lad, no further notes.
March 30, 2025
Rå bok med syke historier. Svert motiverende
November 6, 2024
I thought this book was incredible. Following Jerry progress from a climbing noob to a superstar, so many of his experiences learning on the rock threw me into a surreal sense of nostalgia when I was just dipping my toes into the sport.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews