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Knitwear Design Workshop: A Comprehensive Guide to Handknits

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From the initial spark of inspiration to the sewing of the last seam, this advanced manual to knitwear design provides knitters with the foundation to take their projects to the next level. The four exceptional projects demonstrate the level of uniqueness and beauty that can be achieved with these expert techniques and how to achieve the elusive “perfect fit” that defines a successful end product. Knitters will gain a clearer understanding of commercial pattern instructions, improve their attention to detail with a meaningful test swatch, and acquire a stronger knowledge of proper body and garment measurements.

344 pages, Spiral-bound

First published January 1, 2009

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Shirley Paden

8 books3 followers

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5 stars
125 (58%)
4 stars
65 (30%)
3 stars
16 (7%)
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5 (2%)
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2 (<1%)
Displaying 1 - 28 of 28 reviews
Profile Image for notgettingenough .
1,084 reviews1,401 followers
April 8, 2010
I bought this book for the patterns. It turns out this is a bit like saying you bought The Diary of Ann Frank for the sex.

WELL I DIDN'T KNOW!!!

It's a knitting book. It is not entirely unreasonable to expect it to have knitting patterns in it.

Not only that, it is full of calculus and difficult maths and quantum physics, as is all the rage at the moment.



And if you think that's funny, really, it isn't.

The modern interest in math and craft began in 1997 when Taimina devised a plan for crocheting a hyperbolic plane. Hyperbolic planes are spaces of negative curvature (imagine the shape of a riding saddle) where all lines curve away from each other. Hyperbolic planes are fairly common in nature, appearing everywhere from the frills on a sea slug to growth patterns of coral to the way the brain folds.

The craft objects themselves tend to be common shapes, such as discs, spheres and cones. However, just as a triangle that normally only has 180-degrees worth of angles can have three 90-degree angles when drawn on a sphere, the shapes take on novel and surprising forms when projected across hyperbolic space.

Despite being widespread in nature and well understood in theoretical math, no good physical models of a hyperbolic shape existed until Taimina crocheted her first plane. In hyperbolic space, points move away from each other as the shape expands. While it is hard to model this using paper or plastic, it is easily replicated by simply increasing the number of stitches per row as the shape is knit or crocheted.

“What you can do is get a tactile insight. I theoretically understand the concept, but [the model:] allows me to communicate it,” said Taimina.

After Taimina’s crocheted models gained a degree of notoriety, Hinke Osinga realized that if a hyperbolic plane could be modeled with crochet, then a model of the complex shape her research focused on could be made the same way. Osinga was looking at the Lorenz manifold, another shape that had yet to be presented in a physical model. Manifolds are shapes where the curved nature of the larger shape can be treated as a flat plane over short distances, like a 2-D road map sufficiently representing a portion of the 3-D Earth.

The Lorenz manifold models how objects move through a chaotic space such as a flowing river or the atmosphere. Various applications include meteorological prediction and spacecraft navigation. Before Osinga made her crochet Lorenz manifold, there had never been a physical model of this shape for reference.

Around the same time that Osinga was using craft to answer questions about math, Yackel and Belcastro began their attempt to answer questions raised by craft with math.

Belcastro designed a mathematical proof detailing why any topological surface can be knit. While seemingly limited to explaining yarn work, the proof could have ramifications for biology. A range of phenomena from shell growth to bird’s nest-building replicate knitting by building up a structure one line at a time.
(quoted from: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25011806/)

Apparently Alan Turing knitted geometric shapes in his lunch breaks. I guess he was anticipating the discoveries being made at the moment.

I do think this is going to be a great book, by the way. I just have to stop being scared of it.
Profile Image for Leiah Cooper.
778 reviews97 followers
June 14, 2013
First, this is NOT just a pattern book. Think of it more as an upper level course in The Math of Knitting. OH! NO! I said the “M” word!!!!

Like a lot of people, I grew up being told that “Girls Don’t Do Math”. Yes, it is stupid, unconscionable and deadly to the female psyche, but growing up where I did, it is just the way it was. Of course, later, I got a math degree just to prove “Them” wrong. :-)

“Knitwear Design Workshop” should be used as a math class in school. Ms. Paden takes the math of designing knitting patterns and makes it easy. This is, literally, a step-by-step guide to planning your own knitting design. From researching your idea, Ms. Paden leads you through all levels of design, from selecting yarns to selecting your silhouette. Bodies, shoulders, armholes, necklines (my personal bug-a-boo) and finishing techniques are all covered in simple steps with clear and concise formulas. This is, literally, a step-by-step guild to the perfect knitting project!
Profile Image for Alysia.
9 reviews
October 18, 2012
Full of great technical knowledge. This reference book should be owned and read by any knitter who wants well fitting and professional looking hand knits.
Profile Image for Karlene Gould.
170 reviews
September 2, 2024
Knitwear design workshop

What an awesome design book! Patterns so beautiful and eye catching! Looking forward to working with these patterns. Lets start!
Profile Image for Nostalgia Reader.
884 reviews69 followers
Read
July 27, 2016
Incredibly comprehensive overview of how to design sweaters with all sorts of different components. Example gauges are used to give a detailed run-down of how to design various body types, armholes, sleeve types, cardigan bands, and finishes. Also provides an EXCELLENT formula for how to actually equally divide up your stitches to "decrease/increase evenly across work."

The only major flaw in this is that circular designs and top down work is verboten. I'm not even sure these works are mentioned in the book (hyperbole, but only a little). If you're looking for a book that covers how to design circular and/or top down sweaters and cardis, I would point you towards Ann Budd's Knitter's Handy Book of Top-Down Sweaters: Basic Designs in Multiple Sizes and Gauges and Wendy Bernard's Custom Knits: Unleash Your Inner Designer with Top-Down and Improvisational Techniques. But even if you only design circularly, this still has a wealth of information on properly shaping your work, and can usually be adapted to be worked circularly from the bottom up.

There's also the issue of "your gauge on your 10-inch swatch that you have washed, blocked, and stored over the winter, will NEVER change once you start your actual sweater." That, my friends, is BS.
358 reviews5 followers
February 21, 2014
A fabulous book for any knitter seeking to design, knit and fit knitted garments. This is a an excellent resource for any knitter who desires to go beyond simple knitting patterns. I have been knitting for 48 years, designing my own patterns for many of those years and this book elevated my design and fit knowledge appreciably. I recommend this book to any knitter who wants to design and knit well fitted garments.

Shirley Paden's journey from computer programmer to knitwear designer is an inspiration for all knitters who dream to become knitwear designers. Please read her story in the introduction. It make the book even better.
362 reviews5 followers
July 16, 2021
Dieses Buch ist die Rettung für frustrierte Stricker*innen. Wenn man zum wiederholten Male mit viel Liebe und Mühe einen Pullover gestrickt hat, und der einfach nicht richtig sitzt: Arbeite diese Buch durch. Es enthält alle alle Geheimnisse der passgenauen Fertigung von Stricksachen. Gut erläutert, mit Tabellen und Listen zum Ausfüllen und Abarbeiten. Mir persönlich waren die mathematischen Formeln zum Errechnen der Maschen- oder Reihenanzahl zu komplex. Da gehe ich lieber Schritt für Schritt vor. Aber auch das ist unkompliziert möglich, das Buch leitet einen an.
Absolute Empfehlung!
Profile Image for Kathy.
66 reviews1 follower
December 17, 2010
Wow, I love math and this book finally confirms that hey,,, I knew what I was doing all these years. And for the newbie, this walks you through how to design and write your own patterns, or adjust patterns to new gauges for different yarns. Wonderful. And the on-line additions with charts to print out and fill in are also great.
Profile Image for Lovestoswatch.
29 reviews
January 26, 2021
This is an amazingly useful book if you want to take a dive at customising patterns to fit a body shape.

Very clearly written, I could not be happier I’ve bought it, and I use it heavily too. If you don't feel like venturing straight into designing, you can still use it to adapt any pattern to your figure.

One thing to be aware of is that this is specifically designed for the female figure - so no men and no children, though it is not too hard to think how to make suitable adaptations for these cases.

With this caveat, it is really comprehensive: it covers various silhouettes for pullovers, cardigans, skirts and dresses, each with its separate chapters, with additional chapters covering different types of sleeves and armholes, necklines and cuffs.

A preview of the book, including a full table of contents and the first few pages are available from Shirley Paden‘s website (https://www.shirleypaden.com).
Profile Image for Susan Eubank.
423 reviews15 followers
March 5, 2019
It's beyond my skill set at this point, but I like the concept because it is very clear about how to construct various garments. It allows me to think about knitting in the way I want to, i.e. picking the stitches rather than picking the whole pattern. I would like some more garment shapes, but I suppose those could be adapted too.
Profile Image for Laryn.
39 reviews1 follower
May 24, 2021
Fantastic book that is a great jumping off point for new knitwear designers and designers-to-be. I appreciated the worksheets for different types of projects, as well as the advice on yarn selection. There is so much math involved in knitwear design, and this book makes it easy to understand- even for those of us who had to take algebra twice! :D
2 reviews
July 30, 2025
great information, not size inclusive

This is a really great resource to self draft or start designing, however it is not very size inclusive with its math and provided measurements and ratios.
Profile Image for Alison Mccallister.
23 reviews
August 23, 2023
Great book

Wonderful explanations that will really help the new designer to hone their craft. Lots of pictures and diagrams that help to explain the details.
Profile Image for Laura.
15 reviews6 followers
November 1, 2016
Great Book!
Explains all the basic math that is behind constructing knitted garments.
It focuses on basic bottom-up approaches, but of course the tips can be applied to top-down sweaters as well.

After getting to know some basics about swatching, measuring yourself and getting finished measurements based on those measurements, Paden discusses differently constructed sweaters (Drop shoulders, saddle shoulders, set-in sleeves, Raglan etc.) and tailored and non-tailored sweaters and cardigans.
Every basic sweater is explained in detail with the math done for one example garment with an exemplary gauge.
She then goes on to talk about different necklines, sleeves, collars and so on and gives helpful tips on the way on how to calculate everything yourself and gives advice on finishing techniques.

I can recommend the book if you want to make up your own sweater or your just want to understand the process more or if you'd like to change a few details or the fit on an existing pattern.

Profile Image for Ciaobella.
50 reviews
March 25, 2013
There are many books out there on knitwear design, and many that attempt to cram it into just one book. This one does a superb job of summarizing the important points and then gives you the tools to document your knitted process.

The spiral bound format makes it a good reference, the worksheets walk you through many concepts and the section on collars and sleeves stand out from the crowd. If you enjoy knitting in the round or modular shaping, you'll want to work with other references.

The appendices are just as crucial to the book's success but I found the patterns, while beautiful garments, to be extraneous. Why do the publishers seem to require any knitting book to have patterns?

If you're just building your knitwear design library or want one book for flat knitwear design, this may be the one for you.
Profile Image for Marnie.
140 reviews14 followers
January 1, 2011
I give this a 3 out of 5 not because it's lacking anything or because it isn't well written or useful but because it's didn't really have much info that I didn't already have in other references. I'd happily recommend it to someone who loved knitting and wanted to begin to modify existing patterns for a better fit or create their own designs. The binding makes it really easy to read while you are knitting and she covers a huge array of topics in an accessible way.
Profile Image for Sheila.
218 reviews7 followers
September 26, 2011
This looks like a really good guide to sweater design. My library wanted it back before I had time to check it out in detail. I'll definitely check it out again. Like when I get to the sleeves of the cardigan I'm currently designing :^)

Profile Image for Cat von Hassel-Davies.
13 reviews3 followers
August 31, 2010
I love this book. After taking a class with Jared Flood and Anne Hanson at the Loopy Spring Fling I am ready to tackle my first designed sweater.
Profile Image for Mindofwinter.
20 reviews2 followers
October 15, 2010
This book is indispensable. It is a must-read for anyone who designs. There are other good books on the subject out there, but this is my favorite.
Profile Image for Chris.
457 reviews4 followers
February 20, 2013
A lot of information I've seen before, but some new information as well. Overall, a great resource for anyone who wants to design or adapt a knitting pattern.
Profile Image for Kat.
15 reviews
August 8, 2014
Great book. The math information will help to create a garment that fits perfectly, and when you own the book you can refer to it when ever you wish.
Profile Image for Marilyn.
1,513 reviews
July 1, 2014
Incredibly detailed; lots of math. IF you want to be a designer of knit clothing and you can understand the concepts and math involved, THIS is the book for you. I'm not ready for this level yet.
Profile Image for Mckinley.
10k reviews84 followers
August 27, 2015
Helpful in understanding size/proportion as well as other aspects of design.
Come back to when start knitting fitted sweaters.
Displaying 1 - 28 of 28 reviews