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They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? Or that nothing—not even the loss of her arm—could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii, Bethany responded to the shark’s stealth attack with the calm of a teenage girl with God on her side, resolutely pushing aside her pain and panic while being rescued and brought back to shore. “When can I surf again?” was the first thing Bethany asked after her emergency surgery, leaving no doubt that her spirit and determination were part of a greater story—a tale of personal empowerment and spiritual grit that shows the body is no more essential to surfing, perhaps even less so, than the soul.
250 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2004
You should have seen [the nurse's] face when she reached over and felt that cold rubber foot. I thought she would scream. Take that! This is what you get for waking me up all night!
I had never been in a TV studio before. They all have a "green room," which cracks me up because nine out of ten times it's not really green (so why do they call it that, would someone tell me?).
I saw a guy with a nice camera on the beach, and I was afraid he might be paparazzo, so I walked up to him and asked him to please not take any picture of me surfing.