East Germany may be most remembered for the activities of the Stasi, but now, for the first time, its secret short flirtation with fashion is revealed. For a short period the notoriously repressive bureaucrats who ran East Germany decided to bring some color into their otherwise drab lives. They commissioned two photographers, hired St. Pauli Girls as models, and chose the locations that represented their greatest socialist achievements—oil refineries, worker canteens, concrete office buildings, airports—to shoot their daring photographs. The result: cunning and original uses for tartan, little hats and jaunty caps, bold florals, and more swatches of pumpkin, tomato, and lemon yellow than you might find at a country fair. For years, these alarming examples of a zeitgeist unleashed have been hidden from Western eyes…but not anymore From blindingly-bright mod go-go girls to demure peasant lasses posed with that most German of animals, the Llama, these images reveal another side of what went on behind the Berlin Wall.
This is very funny. Viewing old fashion trends is always a laugh - the huge 'power' shoulders of the 80s, the strange little 'Jackie' pillbox hats of the 60s etc - but when the clothes are the government-controlled boutique fashion versions from East Germany they are really hilarious. The models, especially the men, would probably never have got work in the West. Buy this when you have a friend who needs a good laff and enjoy reading it together over a cup of coffee.
This isn't "fashion from East Germany" so much as "Quirky Fashion Photography by Gunther Rubitzsh."
Rubitzsh is best known for posing his models (mostly St Pauli girls) in factories or other industrial settings.
This sort of makes sense in light of GDR's valorization of work, but then he throws in the lasses in red knits and riding boots petting llamas or luridly colored go-go dresses in the snow. Or the woman nude except for numerous belts.
[EDIT: Oops, looks like my beltkini image got removed. Too much skin? You couldn't really see anything against the ToS... Oh well, here's a photo of a weird pose instead, as a placeholder.]
Anyway, a fun little collection of photos, nothing serious. There are much more thorough and extensive books on the titular subject.
No-on could ever call me a fashionista. I have a male friend, who used to take me with him, when he shopped for clothes. If I liked something, it was clearly out of date. If I disapproved, it was surely the height of fashion, and he would buy it. So, you might think this would be a strange book for me to buy, but having read a review on Goodreads (thanks Petra), I just could not resist. As the back cover says, it is “Wunderbar” – clashing colours and patterns, all the worst crimes of 60’s and 70’s fashion paraded. I would be hard pressed to find anything either I – or my friend – would be seen dead in. Even ABBA would have cringed at some of the clothes. But it is not just about the clothes. The backgrounds are great too. Old buildings (good idea), modern building site, a combine harvester (????), factories, ships (NOT yachts or even classy boats), an industrial chemistry lab, oil refineries, airplanes, a lawn mower, …. Sometimes the background made the clothes difficult to see, but generally the staging added to the hilarity. And the props – some traffic cones anyone??? There’s a wonderful picture of two women with golf clubs, no grass, one model trying to take a shot, while the other model plants her golf club (held at the top with finger tips) between the other model’s club and the ball. I don’t play golf, but even to me that looks a bit staged (aka ridiculous). And the whole book is sandwiched between double page spreads of Trabants. The female models all look happy – except the one asked to dress only in belts (understandable!). The male models try to look serious, and usually stand with their legs splayed. My favourite male is the one in a beige jacket, matching his trousers, standing in front of about fifteen flag poles – with an open-faced red crash helmet on! A fantastic look behind the curtain, to a different time with different priorities, and alarming aesthetics. A book to be enjoyed by the fashion conscious – and by those with no fashion taste at all (such as me – and my husband, who also loved it)
The imagery contained within the pages of this book tell a story of East Germany different from the one we are all familiar with. One gets the feeling that despite the Stasi and crippling oppression, life could still be comfortable, quirky and maybe even pleasant. Of course it was all propaganda, but this is still a fun romp behind the Iron Curtain, and certainly a most unusual perspective on the GDR.
My, what an interesting, um, counterpoint to this weekend's other book, about the murder of Laci Peterson. Pocket-sized treasury of Seventies camp fashion from the wrong side of the Berlin Wall. Not as appalling as I was led to expect -- American haute couture was no better during that frightening time -- but a fun little time-trip.