Beyond the Mountain

by Steve House, Reinhold Messner (Foreword)

What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach.

Reinhold Messner calls Steve House the best high=altitude climber in the world today, an honor he declines. "Being called the 'best,'" says Steve, "makes me very uncomfortable. My intention is to be as good as I can be. Mountaineering is too complex to be squeezed into a competition. It is simply not something that lends itself to comparison. Climbing is about process, not achievement. The moment your mind wanders away from the task of the climbing-at-hand will be the moment you fail."

Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty. In 2005 Steve and alpinist Vince Anderson pioneered a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,600-foot Nanga Parbat, which had never before been climbed in alpine style. It was the third ascent of the face and the achievement earned Steve and Vince the first Piolet d"or (Golden Ice Axe) awarded to North Americans.

Steve is an accomplished and spellbinding storyteller in the tradition of Maurice Herzog and Lionel Terray. Beyond the Mountain is a gripping read destined to be a mountain classic. And it addresses many issues common to nonclimbing life -- mentorship, trust, failure success, goal setting, heroes, partnership -- as well as the mountaineer's heightened experience of risk and the deaths of friends. Beyond the Mountain is a window into the process of a man working to be the best he can be.

Genres: Mountaineering, Climbing, Nonfiction, Adventure, Biography, Outdoors, Audiobook

288 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2009

Reviews

[Philippe · Rating 5 out of 5]

I finished this book about a week ago but I keep thinking about it. In several respects it is a flawed book. The prose is serviceable, not great. There is a certain monotony to the sequence of chapters, all of which are devoted to a milestone climb. Most of House's outings are described in astonishing detail, down to the individual moves, which only diehard mountain afficionados will appreciate. Worst of all, an adolescent streak, that got me pretty worked up, runs through the whole narrative. The author is unabashedly elitist, chastising other climbers for lack of ambition. He is possessive, jealously shielding his objectives from fellow alpinists. When it comes to human relationships House seems to lack emotional maturity, making everything subservient to his climbing ambitions. His choice of partnerships is dictated by a quest for an all-or-nothing communion of climbing minds and bodies. Frankly, many of this struck me as an unachievable romantic fantasy (with all the pernicious connotations that go with that moniker).

However, the great quality of the book is that is able to make us understand what a level of commitment it takes to tackle very technical Himalayan routes in a clean, 'alpine' style. Anyone who has contemplated one of these Himalayan giants from basecamp will have an idea of the unfathomable scale and complexity of these mountains. Imagine then tackling the unclimbed routes on your own, with just an 10-pound backpack that includes the barest essentials. It defies imagination, it really does. But House is able to give us an idea what it takes in terms of physical and mental stamina. Pain becomes a religion. There is no other way. Cold, hunger, thirst, vertiginous exposure, route finding uncertainties and the inevitable objective dangers - stonefall, crumbling seracs, fickle weather - make up for an equation in which there is literally no margin for error. It is amazing that Steve House has been able to experience all this and still dwells amongst the living. The fact is a testimonial to his uncanny survival skills.

The ethos of alpine style Himalayan (or Alaskan for that matter) climbing is so extreme that I have difficulties placing it. Answers to the great questions - why do people do this? what does it mean for us, mere mortals? - elude me after reading this book. Nevertheless, it set me thinking. Despite the flaws I happily give it four stars.

[chucklesthescot · Rating 2 out of 5]

I didn't like the attitude of the author from the start. When Bruce wants to turn and go back due to how slow Steve is climbing, it is a weakness in Bruce, not Steve. Steve thinks because he is willing to die to summit that others should be as reckless and he is mad that Bruce has actually saved his life. A climber decides not to try a second climb and Steve sneers that the man's recent divorce has made him weak. He sneers at the people who choose to do proper jobs like teachers, taxi drivers, scientists as they are sellouts to the Man and don't deserve a better life. What a total asshole this guy is. It's people doing jobs like driving you to the airport, treating you in hospital, flying planes etc that allow you to climb, you womble. Here are his thoughts. 'That is the ultimate sellout-to work for the man. To cast your only soul into a hell of cubicles and workstations and dollar bills. And if they don't see this, they don't deserve the chance to find out who they might become.' Yet he of course thinks others have no right to pass comment on his choices!

He also seems to care little about people who are meant to be his friends. On hearing about one death, his immediate thought isn't for his friend or their family-it was about how to persuade a girl he fancies to go out with him. I also didn't like the writing style which was choppy, incoherant and had no flow to it. He meets his team at Base Camp, he's sick at Camp One, we jump back to how he got on the team, back to mid climb, back to how he got sick...it was all over the place. I wanted to read about the climbing events in order as they happened but this book was jumping ahead and jumping back so often that I just couldn't enjoy the climbing bits. And not liking the author at all made it hard to get invested in the story. I certainly won't read anything else this man produces.

1.5 star

[Andrzej · Rating 4 out of 5]

A pretty difficult book to judge. On one hand the writing is far from perfect. The author goes describing one climb after another. At some point gets very dry and keeps writing the same thing with a kinda machine style. However, and that is what makes this book great, the book is a story of a person who gave everything in a pursuit to reach the elusive rock and ice mastery. Straightforwardly and without any shame he talks about him struggling with the life in the valleys, his inability to bond with people who didn't share the extreme alpine experiences with him. It all is a pabth and mostly driven by few groundbreaking moments which shaped him. The search to once again feel that magical moment of a different self. The proof of existence. 'Meaning is born from struggle, and each of us has our own unique battles' is the phrase which in my eyes defines what this book is about.

[Mudassar Ahmed · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this book before going for an expedition to Karakorums in the northern part of my country (Pakistan). I went for this book purposefully to know more about these mountains but gladly, I found much more information than I was looking for. The writer is wonderful when he describes things in detail, specially the feuds between the climbers and the time up on the mountain where you do not see anything except snow. Its a tale of courage and resilience & explains the life when you are up on the mountain.
Overall a good must read book for those who are interested in adventure, mountain climbing or trekking etc.

[Cristina Zappa · Rating 1 out of 5]

DNF - got to 76%
This book wasn't what I was expecting it to be. I generally devour mountaineering books. Read by the author in a very monotonous tone.
The time of events keeps jumping back and forth making it very confusing.
The mention of Reinhold Messner is what made me pick up this book but there's no sign of him up to where I listened to.
Shame, if structured better this could have had the potential to be a good book.

[Mihai · Rating 5 out of 5]

Though this book is as stripped of extraneous details as the author's alpine style, I enjoyed it quite a bit. Plenty of deadpan humor moments to lighten up the mood, but mostly just a hard look at Steve House's philosophy of climbing, the driving factors in his pursuit of ethical routes, and his exceptional accomplishments. I wish I had gotten to know Steve the man a little better through more information about himself as a simple citizen, but I understand why the memoir needed to be unrelenting in its focus on climbing. As a fellow climber, Beyond the Mountain inspired me to reconsider my own challenges and goals.

[Charlie Young · Rating 3 out of 5]

A lot of this book I struggled with due to it jumping all over the place. However it dug down deep into thoughts of being in the alpinism and sacrifices/selfishness that comes with going into dangerous terrain. Defiantly has the mind thinking about what is possible and the values you uphold and what you want to achieve. A tough line to walk but one of curiosity and a pounding conscience.

[Rhythima · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderfully documented nuances of each adventure. The adventures are beautiful and yet, haunting. An honest tale which doesn't romanticise adventures, and clearly questions the (mental) needs of these (personal) conquests.

[Ryan Kelly · Rating 4 out of 5]

Good book for people who really love climbing. Reads like a journal would in which it’s pretty scattered. Very repetitive, goes from one climb to the next to the next with the same writing style the whole time.

[Andreas · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very matter of fact and openly revealing account of what, where, when, with whom, how. Amazing account of how the next evolution of Alpinism came about. Revealing to read, especially the hints on answers to the question of "why?" Always personal, to me the endeavors in which the author conquers great adversity, loneliness, danger to find a pure self and pure partnership resonate most.
And reading his book, my experience could not help but to reverberate: For many attaining that "pureness" is easier in the Mountains than in everyday life, in every day relation, where the senses are less heightened, seemingly less at stake, where life can be lost to loneliness, withdrawal, lack of openness, isolation and routine without being noticed.
For many of us, conquering Love remains harder than cracking many a mountain.

[Rob · Rating 5 out of 5]

Steve House is at the top of his profession. A modern alpinist putting up ascents in the purest form. The book builds to the first alpine style ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat herald as the greatest alpine climb of our time. House writes simply and with technical detail. The book felt very professional and shows great editing. The only sore spot was Messner's forward which felt contrived and just a regurgitation of the prologue.

[Nick Harrison · Rating 4 out of 5]

Gripping tales from big wall climbing in the world’s most forbidding landscapes. This intertwined with an inquiry into how goals, obsession, and meaning plague and elevate human existence. A real treat.

[Uros Abaz · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love adventure and mountaineering books, but I felt this one was a little too detailed for my liking.

[maria helena · Rating 2 out of 5]

I love mountaineering books and usually don't mind if they are a technical/detailed but this was a tedious, slow-going read. I also didn't think that the author came off as a very likable person.

[Clara Mazzi · Rating 3 out of 5]

Mentre leggevo le pagine vergate da Steve House, con tanto rigore morale, in cui racconta (pochissimo) di sé attraverso la montagna (mentre però sembra che lui sia convinto di averci aperto un suo lato molto personale e privato) mi sembrava di sentire re Julien, in “Madagascar 2” che diceva: “Niente di personale, solo che noi siamo meglio di voi”, parlando ovviamente al pluralia majestatis perché era un re. Il fatto è che re Julien faceva morir dal ridere mentre Steve House no: si prende terribilmente sul serio e gela ogni possibile commento (sembra che non ne voglia, neanche di positivi, perché tanto lui sa di essere bravissimo, quindi a che pro porgergli dei complimenti se non che tentarlo nell’auto ammirazione, cosa che lui, con rigore monacale, cerca di allontanare da sé ad ogni costo?). Il suo libro è una sorta di autobiografia (minimal) in cui l’alpinista condivide qualche riflessione interessante (bisogna dargliene atto) ma è più una raccolta di domande che una ricerca di risposte. Inoltre, come ho accennato prima, Steve House non è che condivida poi molto con noi: al di là di chiarire e ribadire che la sua ambizione primaria è quello di essere il meglio di sé stesso (e forse di tutti gli altri?) e di voler diventare il miglior alpinista del mondo (della storia? Ma quali sono i criteri per essere definiti tali? Chi lo sa? Forse i suoi) in realtà accenna a qualche fatto ma non approfondisce minimamente – e sembra lo faccia scientemente. Sarò più esplicita: tra i capitoli iniziali, racconta di come lui, americano, abbia scelto di fare l’anno di scambio del liceo in Slovenia, un paese che tra l’altro si era da pochissimo appena liberato dal regime comunista. Direi che si tratti di una scelta molto particolare, sicuramente interessante e da approfondire col lettore, non solo perché di per sé lo è ma anche perché è in quest’occasione che ha iniziato a scalare, è qui che ha posto le basi per diventare quello che poi è diventato nel mondo dell’alpinismo e che l’ha messo in contatto con i grandi alpinisti sloveni. Steve House (come le divinità che vogliono/devono mantenere una sfera di segretezza per rimanere/essere tali?) non ci dice nulla. Ce la mette lì, sulla pagina, come un dato di fatto e nient’altro. Oppure racconta di sbieco che i suoi piles (quando è già tornato negli States ed è adulto) se li cuce da solo con resti di materiale. E perché? È così povero oppure lo fa per scelta minimalista/ecologista? E se è povero, come mai lo è, in uno dei paesi più capitalisti del mondo, dove un lavoretto lo trovi sempre e comunque? Non ce lo dice. Qual è poi suo background famigliare, che magari potrebbe spiegare sia la scelta slovena che gli scarti di piles ricuciti da solo? Steve House si è cucito anche la bocca pur di non dirci niente. Anzi, qualcosa ce lo dice (per incuriosirci ancora di più): ci racconta di aver incontrato i suoi genitori a Chamonix (Chamonix, non i Piani di Bobbio – venuti apposta dagli States), col padre che lo attende con la pipa in bocca (ma né lui, né la madre - per quei due cenni in croce - sembravano due spaesati in quel di Francia) alla stazione perché era venuto a prenderlo prendere al rientro da una grande impresa per poi accompagnarlo in Slovenia a ritirare un premio prestigioso. Un supplizio di tantalo: chi sono i suoi genitori? Che rapporto ha/avuto con loro? Mistero. Steve prosegue, raccontando di “profonde” amicizie, ma con persone di cui sa, a livello personale, pochissimo (sue parole): che cosa vuol dire per lui, allora “profonda amicizia”? Con questi “ottimi amici” in fondo lui ha condiviso solo dei progetti in montagna, ma non si dovrebbe parlare allora di partnership invece che amicizia? Giuro che lo sto chiedendo sinceramente, perché non riesco sennò a capire bene cosa intenda. L’apice però lo raggiunge quando si riferisce in termini sprezzanti circa la commercializzazione del premio Piolet d’Or, premo che però quando gli viene dato, lui accetta e non rifiuta affatto. Che fine ha fatto il rigore monacale delle prime pagine? Magari ha cambiato nel frattempo idea, ma allora sarebbe molto interessante che ci spiegasse cosa gli ha fatto cambiare idea. Niente: silenzio anche su questa enorme contraddizione.
L’unica cosa che condivide col lettore – e per la quale gli va dato atto che ciò sia rilevante – è la sua difficoltà nel trovarsi un buon partner, in montagna come nella vita. Si pone tante domande, cui però, invece di trovare risposte, le condisce via con l’emozione enorme che gli regala l’esperienza in montagna. I quesiti personali posti sono di valore, mancano però risposte interessanti (che magari quando ha scritto questo testo non aveva ancora trovato, ma sarebbe bello se le condividesse in un secondo libro) e soprattutto risulta spigoloso il suo atteggiamento superbo, profondamente convinto del suo superiore valore rispetto a tanti altri. Ribadisco concludendo: sarebbe bello un secondo libro, in cui condividesse col lettore il suo proseguimento di percorso personale.

[Jure · Rating 3 out of 5]

A great look inside the mind of one of the top alpinists of all time.

I've read a lot of books on alpinism. What I appreciated the most about this one is the emphasis on the most pure style of climbing: minimal equipment, requiring true commitment and exceptional skill set. In this respect the book is (was) truly an inspiration for the next generations of climbers.

The book also tries to provide a look into the persona, mindset and thought process of a climber. This effort is much shorter in number of words but still provides valuable insight. I admire his ability to differ between the decisions and the consequence of his decision. E.g. Steve feeling really sorry about too big risk he took instead of celebration that he succeeded in his risky attempt.

He gives a bit of a look into the relations outside of climbing, especially the romantic ones. I was dissappointed on this front. Not that I wish to watch into his bedroom, but life outside of climbing is very much connected with the climbing itself. Especially for the mayority of recreational climberst he connection and the conflicts between them are one of the most interesting and thought provoking. It seems like he kept a lot of things in this front for himself since the descriptions are quite shallow. The other option is that he just viewed the relations outside of climbing as shallow: they do nto provide the "bond" that can be acquired during commited climb. For me personally, this is a bit dissapointing.

Good book, would recommend to an aspiring and motivated alpinist (or someone similar) or any true adventure seeker. For other people... this book might be too saturated with the description of climbing.

[Darlene Moak · Rating 5 out of 5]

For various reasons, I have recently been bingeing on mountaineering books (it started with "K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain" - Ed Viesturs & David Roberts) then on to the lives & books of Joe Tasker & Peter Boardman (through Chris Bonington's "The Unclimbed Ridge") & "Conquistadors of the Useless". I thought this book was fascinating. Yes, sometimes Steve is elitist & narcissistic, but I think you might have to have a little bit of that to do what he did. What I also heard was a gradual softening of attitude & a growing maturity/humility. I listened to the book on Audible & it was read by Steve himself. I love listening to books read by the author (e.g. "A Promised Land"). I read Audible reviews which criticized Steve's narration which I have to say I did not understand. His narration, in my opinion, is fine. I am not a mountaineer & yes, sometimes the technical details of the climbs can get a bit tedious, but the technical aspects are not what is really going on in the book. It's about the principles behind the climbing. All I can say is "wow - well done, Steve"!

[Donald S · Rating 5 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book immensely. Steve House's very specific descriptions of his climbs -- and mistakes -- made it easy to project myself into those climbs. He is very honest about his emotional needs and drives, which I found way out of the mainstream. Few of us are so willing to die to pursue goals that have virtually no effect on mankind or even on our smaller communities.
I was fascinated by the incongruity of his admittedly huge insecurities about his place in the world, against his astonishing confidence climbing missing one boot, foot wrapped in plastic bags. Steve House is among the most unusual characters I have ever come across, and my worldview has been enlarged by his stories.
I was also struck by the complexity of his relationships -- nine years married to a woman he rarely saw (and abandoned because she could not meet his needs?) counterpointed with his intense connection to whoever was on the other end of the rope or the snow cave.
I will never do these climbs, but I have enjoyed living vicariously through Steve's stories.

[Ev · Rating 4 out of 5]

Others here have already written much more eloquently about the good and bad of this book. While never having been a rock climber, I did generally enjoy the technical descriptions. I was immersed in the skill and depth of concentration required. I liked how the chronology was re-ordered, breaking what could have been a monotonous pattern. The final climb on Nanga Parbat felt long, sometimes tedious, because in reality and points it must have been and I stuck with it for that reason.

I now comprehend better and admire more Steve's adventures and those of his peers. As a footnote, reading the book shook me out of a period of disillusionment with my recreational road cycling. Perhaps the enormity of the challenges that he faced put my own mundane hillocks into perspective. *SPOILER* The crevasse episode alone made the book worth reading for me.

[michael how · Rating 5 out of 5]

Steve house created a brutally honest book In Beyond the Mountain. It's an enthralling read that leaves no stone unturned. I believe it seeks to answer a question that is burning within many climbers and mountaineers. Why? Why put so much at risk? We all sacrifice a lot for climbing so it's a fair question indeed.

His self reflection and honesty is refreshing and his detailing and solid tips are worth saving. I've read no shortage of mountain books and this one is near the top of my list with the likes of Krauers "Into Thin Air".

It will transport you to another world if you know nothing about climbing; or it will horrify you to your core if you know a lot about climbing.

[Eric · Rating 5 out of 5]

As many before, I learned that the moment we think we have attained the goal, we lose it. Success is empty.

Climb up by looking down.

Mark - “I’m an elitist prick and I think posers have polluted mountaineering… They make the summit, not the style, the yardstick of success.”

There is no partnership, no marriage but convenience.

The simpler we make things, the richer the experiences become.

My most rewarding days were days when I cut away everything.

Uncertainty is the essence of alpinism, ignoring that destroys the experience.

Yukio Mishima
“Pain, I came to feel, might well prove to be the sole proof of the persistence of consciousness within the flesh, the sole physical expression of consciousness.”

[Tomq · Rating 3 out of 5]

Steve House looks down on people who excel at useful things: doctors, engineers, taxi drivers, or anybody whose job actually contributes to society in some way - in his view these people have sold themselves to "the man" (whatever that means). In contrast to these losers, the likes of Steve House and Reinhold Messner go into the mountains to assuage their insecurities, to get recognition at any cost, to reassure themselves that they are "worthy" (of what?). They climb on top of the highest summits in order to look down on everybody else, and that gives a bitter aftertaste to their otherwise beautiful, incredible adventures.

This being said, the book was entertaining and informative. The writing is pretty good, although a more linear / chronological order would be better. There are a lot of nice stories. Despite the book's title, these stories very rarely go "Beyond the mountain": in this nearly 300 pages autobiography, Steve House has literally nothing to say about his parents! And his neglected (now ex-) wife is neglected as a book character, too. But the mountain stories are discussed in great detail and that's entertaining if, like me, you really like the mountaineering aspect of mountaineering books. Because of the title, that's not what I was looking for in this book; I wanted to hear about the training and prep before the mountain, about the physical and mental recovery after the mountain, and I wanted deeper insights about the life of a top mountaineer when he's down in the valley. But I still enjoyed this book, even if it should be called "On the Mountain".

Interesting stories include:

* 19 years old on Nanga Parbat - altitude sickness, disappointment in his team's attitude.
* climbing with superstar Alex Lowe.
* feeling as one with his partners on Denali's Slovak Direct
* falling in a crevasse and getting injured while hiking alone near the Drus, and barely managing to save himself
* Steve House lacking emotional intelligence in a variety of different situations
* climbing the Rupal face on Nanga Parbat

[Elena · Rating 4 out of 5]

Un librito curioso que a ratos se me ha hecho algo repetitivo al no estar super puesta en vocabulario de escalada y en rutas tan inhóspitas. He disfrutado mucho aún así de todas las aventuras como si estuviera yo viviendolas también. El autor y protagonista narra maravillosamente detalles super concretos de las expediciones, y en ocasiones se muestra inseguro, con miedo, para demostrarnos que hasta los más grandes escaladores pueden sentirlo. Contagia su amor por la montaña y te hace entender a los alpinistas que se juegan la vida un poco mejor.

[Nad · Rating 4 out of 5]

The author's unabashed sense of expressing himself is astonishing. The prose talks about all the elements of mountaineering that present themselves as challenges, experiences, and lessons: loss, grief, relationships outside of climbing, drive and motivation, 'why' we climb, training, camaraderie, competition, expertise, and other nuances that would interest anyone involved in mountaineering. Also, it's readable and does not have unnecessary jargon, even though all the climbs are excruciatingly detailed.

[Bryan · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a compilation of mountaineering adventures. The author clearly enjoys pushing the limits of his ability. There are a couple of instances where he clearly pushed too far and a couple more where he got away with pushing too far, but with no consequences. That is the constant balance of high adventure activities. How much to push and when to turn around. House did a few first ascents on new routes on some pretty impressive mountains. He clearly knows his stuff.

His level of risk tolerance is well past mine.

[Brad · Rating 5 out of 5]

Mr House has lead a remarkable life. His book is a brief glimpse into this astoundingly difficult life he chose. The physical and mental challenges of alpine climbing are difficult to understand, although Steve's wonderful book helps. The isolationism, the loneliness, the mental doubts of this solitary experience are hard to fathom. I appreciate his openness an frank disclosures. I wish we had more honest people like Mr House. Well done.

[Elijah Lais · Rating 4 out of 5]

I deeply appreciated his brutal honestly, and the frankness with which he approached this book. Much of it was a journal entry, repeatedly describing difficult moves and impossible decisions, and it was relatively easy to blur all the stories and get drug down in all that… but those moments where he reflects on the climbs, the experiences, the relationships, and when he relates them to his greater life, more generally… those were truly beautiful.

[Sarah Haas · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow, what a book. The descriptions are so good that you can emphasize the pain, the suffering, and the exhaustion. The story of how Steve House was finally able to climb Nanga Parbat alpine style is amazing. So many friends lost in all these years but he still goes on and became one of the best in the world.

[Nick Gerritsen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Steve House tells many incredible stories that give a glimpse into what it's like to be a modern alpinist, with all its challenges and risks. He doesn't shy away from serious topics of death and meaning, and it really feels like a reflection on the interplay between his life and career. The introspection is just as moving as the stories from Alaska, Pakistan, and Himalaya. Thank you Steve!

[Koko · Rating 5 out of 5]

wow, okay Steve! I would definitely read more reflections from this vulnerable mountaineer.

"I’ve learned to accept the fear, to let it pass and not paralyze me. Once it washes through me, I possess something powerful, the competence to act, action is the message. Success is found in the process."