Beyond Belfast: A 560-Mile Journey Across Northern Ireland on Sore Feet

by Will Ferguson

Offbeat, charming, and filled with humour and insight, Beyond Belfast is the story of one man’s misguided attempt at walking the Ulster Way, “the longest waymarked trail in the British Isles.” It’s a journey that takes Will Ferguson through the small towns and half-forgotten villages of Northern Ireland, along rugged coastlines and across barren moorland heights, past crumbling castles and patchwork farms.

From IRA pubs to Protestant marches, from bandits and bad weather to banshees and blood sausage, he wades into the thick of things, providing an affectionate and heartfelt look at one of the most misunderstood corners of the world. As the grandson of a Belfast orphan, Will also peels back the myths and realities of his own family history—a mysterious photograph, rumours of a lost inheritance. The truth, when it comes, is both surprising and funny …

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, Canada, Memoir, Ireland, Humor, Biography

416 pages, Hardcover

First published October 13, 2009

About the author

Will Ferguson is an award-winning travel writer and novelist. His last work of fiction, 419, won the Scotiabank Giller Prize. He has won the Stephen Leacock Medal for Humour a record-tying three times and has been nominated for both the IMPAC Dublin Literary Award and a Commonwealth Writers’ Prize. His new novel, The Shoe on the Roof, will be released October 17, 2017. Visit him at WillFerguson.ca

Ferguson studied film production and screenwriting at York University in Toronto, graduating with a B.F.A. in 1990. He joined the Japan Exchange Teachers Programme (JET) soon after and spent five years in Asia. He married his wife Terumi in Kumamoto, Japan, in 1995. They now live in Calgary with their two sons. After coming back from Japan he experienced a reverse culture shock, which became the basis for his first book Why I Hate Canadians. With his brother, Ian Ferguson, he wrote the bestselling sequel How to be a Canadian. Ferguson details his experiences hitchhiking across Japan in Hokkaido Highway Blues (later retitled Hitching Rides with Buddha), his travels across Canada in Beauty Tips from Moose Jaw, and a journey through central Africa in Road Trip Rwanda. His debut novel, Happiness, was sold into 23 languages around the world. He has written for The New York Times, Esquire UK, and Canadian Geographic magazine.

Reviews

[Loraine · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have read more than a few travel books and I have loved several. They must all now move down a notch. Beyond Belfast is the best, and very easy to rate five-star.
It is funny, original, and I loved every page. I started marking off interesting or amusing phrases but gave up as there were just too many. Many times I stopped reading, smiled, shook my head and asked “how did he come up with that description?” I am sure I could open it up at any page and find something that would please me to read over again.
It took a long time to read because I could not finish two pages before there was something to Google, and I would be off on a hunt for photos. This is not for lack of description; quite the opposite. Places are so well described that it was like teasing me. I could not be satisfied with just imagining, I had to see for myself. I actually tried to stay away from the internet for just one reading session, got all comfy in bed with no connection anywhere near to hand, and found myself ripping up my bookmark to keep the pages of things to look up the next day. (I am morally opposed to folding down page corners) So I gave up trying and allowed myself the time I needed to really savor this beauty of a book.
Will Ferguson has a wonderful way of viewing the word and then describing it to us. More of this please.

[Martha☀ · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 stars
In the early aughts, Will Ferguson circumnavigated Northern Ireland on the Ulster Way on foot. He travelled counter-clockwise, starting and ending in Belfast. These 560 miles (900 km) held an endless number of challenges, some of which he anticipated (the weather!) and many that he couldn't have dreamed up (towns that consisted of absolutely nothing).

With his characteristic wit and self-deprecating humour, he describes the thousands of scenarios he found himself in. But, more on point, he explains the dark history of the Troubles as he arrives in various hot beds (now cooled down) of political unrest. He points out that the history of dissent in Northern Ireland goes a lot farther back than 1968, showing that unrest has taken place for centuries and continues to divide the Northern Ireland people. A couple of times, he ends up in situations that feel dangerous, where he has to make a quick exit for fear that bombs or violence are about to erupt - usually because he chose to stir the political pot with the locals. Hiding his Protestant and/or Catholic heritage was often essential in order to survive and be served a meal in a pub.

Beyond the difficulties of figuring out the political stance of the Northern Irish, he has unbelievable trouble following the waymarked Ulster Way. While the route exists on his maps and he has done deep research into the towns and villages that link the trail, in reality the trail is merely an idea. There are miles and miles where Will slogs through knee-deep bogs and through farmers' driveways, following a route that only he is aware of. So often he ends up on a highway, waving down traffic because the trail simply ceased to exist.

There were a number of dark sections that started to grate on me as a reader. Within 3 pages, Ferguson wrote like this:
-depressing view
-even worse ...
-miserable mood
-deflated expectation
-things could only get worse

It is hard to be a side-long cheerleader for a fellow who is set against enjoying himself! But, looking back on that boggy, wet 100 mile section in the west, there is no doubt that his misery and suffering were at an all time high. It is hard to humourous all the time.

But, in hindsight, knowing that the contiguous long-trail status of the Ulster Way has since been removed, I admire Ferguson's tenacity to push through the non-existent with full faith in his maps and the occasional waymarker. Today, the Ulster Way has benn renamed a route to be hiked in sections, rather than as a long route. I had toyed with trekking this Ulster Way myself but - no longer. Ferguson has cured me both of curiosity about the landscape but also made clear that the anger of the Northern Irish is very much still there, just below the surface.

Ferguson relies on his writing ability to describe the landscape, his conversations and the whole experience. I suppose a photo album would have been helpful at times (I had to use wikipedia a few times to visualize certain castles, ruins or geology), but Ferguson does a top-notch job of making you see this country through his eyes.

[Christine · Rating 3 out of 5]

I guess I should start this review off with a confession: I know almost nothing about Irish history. Even the recent events. And considering how heavily the conflicts are woven into Beyond Belfast, this lack put me at a disadvantage for following parts of the story. I kept wishing for a map and a history book to add background. The way that Ferguson weaves the bombings, violence, and the ingrained bitterness into his walk through Northern Ireland wasn't at all what I was expecting when I picked up this book. He originally crosses the pond to shed some light on his grandfather's past, but that quickly becomes a subplot. It pales in comparison to Northern Ireland's history, to their troubles. It haunts nearly every step he takes. I had no idea how pervasive and deadly "the troubles" were. Beyond Belfast really opened my eyes.
Speaking of other eye-openers, Ferguson's own struggle to walk and complete the Ulster Way was not something I think either of us expected. In spite of being equipped with the latest maps from a couple different sources, Ferguson barely managed to finish the Ulster Way. Sections had overgrown, were criss-crossed by fences and rivers and highways, ran through bogs, or were so poorly marked they were impossible to follow. Now, Ferguson goes back eight years later and drives portions of the trail, and mentions the Irish government making plans to improve the Ulster Way, so perhaps it's better now. But reading Ferguson's experience definitely didn't encourage me to rush out and buy a plane ticket and a backpack. This might be one of those adventures that's best experienced from an armchair. With a big cup of "sun-dappled tea".

[Robb · Rating 5 out of 5]

As far as travel biographies go, this one is better than most I have read. Likely because Ferguson uses humour and many Canadian references to keep the writing fresh. The country in question also kept me interested as I absolutely adore Ireland and could identify with pretty much every situation he experienced while on the Emerald Isle. Ferguson has a vast knowledge of Irish history which he is quick to show with his description of every town he visits. Reading this book took me right back to Ireland where I could see myself doing everything and seeing everything that Ferguson saw. His writing paints a beautiful yet shocking view of what Ireland was like before the end of the "Troubles". I felt the pain of the Irish people with each page describing the hardships and difficulties. The only problem I had with "Beyond Belfast" was that the writing got a little repetitive, however this can be forgiven because there is only so many ways to describe the beautiful Irish country side without resorting to poetry.

Thanks to Ferguson and his book, I will definitely be heading back to Ireland to visit the smaller towns he mentioned that I have not yet visited. I will definitely be reading a few more of Ferguson's Canadian themed books. I recommend this book to anyone who has traveled or is planning on travel to Ireland. You will find his adventures easy to relate to.

[Patricia · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was just what I was looking to read in anticipation of a trip to Northern Ireland, though I have no intention whatsoever of walking more than a few miles on the Ulster Way. Canadian humorist Will Ferguson undertook to walk the whole thing in . . . now I can't find a reference to the year, but I get the sense it was the fall of around 2005 or 2006, not so many years after the 1998 Good Friday Agreement established a peace that was still rather fraught. He works a pretty good political and cultural history of Ulster, a bit at a time, into the narrative of his long walk and encounters with Ulster folk of all stripes. He quickly learns that a single, continuous Ulster Way footpath is a fiction (a fiction that has since been dispensed with, in favor of several highlighted segments) and also solves--at least partly--a mystery about the origins of his Ulster grandfather. His writing is funny, self-deprecating, and even poetic, while seeming effortless and conversational. A great serendipitous find at the Halifax Public Library. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Highly recommended for armchair travelers and actual travelers to Northern Ireland.

[Tricia · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love Will Ferguson’s travel memoir writing style, but walking the Ulster Way in Northern Ireland mostly involved slogging through rain from one grungy bar to the next. No amount of wit could make it feel interesting after 300 pages.

[Laura · Rating 5 out of 5]

4.5/5

I had picked up this book a few years ago at a book sale, without its jacket, because I liked the spine. As I work through my unread books on my shelves I wasn’t sure what to expect when I picked this up but was pleasantly surprised to find one of my favourite reads in a long time.

You can’t talk about travelling in Northern Ireland and not mention the political tension that is a constant undertone. When Ferguson hiked the Ulster Way, the bloodshed had just stopped a couple of years prior, with many of his experiences being shaped by that tension. We travelled to Northern Ireland in 2013 and when we crossed the border and saw the message “PSNI - MI5= political policing” in massive letters on the hills above Belfast it hit home that this wasn’t the same Ireland we had just spent the past three days in. Our tour bus driver was not-so-subtly IRA (or at least his grandfather and father were) and I learned more from him than I had from any textbook or news article (although I’m sure the information was a little biased).

Ferguson does an excellent job of weaving together his travel anecdotes with the history and political climate of the region. If you love Ireland as I do, you will love this book! Now I need to go back immediately. ;)

[Robyn · Rating 3 out of 5]

In August we went to Florence and did the Uffizi and Galleria dell'Accademia in one day. At the beginning of the day, there was a lot of awe and joy, so much beautiful art to look at. By the end of the day, it was impossible to avoid thinking "ahhhhh not another beautiful painting! Too much!" Beyond Belfast is that feeling in book form.

I loved Beauty Tips from Moose Jaw and Will Ferguson is no doubt a talented humorist. He has won and/or been shortlisted for pretty much every Leacock award available to him (including for this one which wasn't as funny as I was expecting; I honestly wonder if the committee even reads his books anymore or is just like "Will Ferguson entered, throw everyone else's entries in the shredder"). I also love hiking travelogues, so I was so excited when I realized this book was a thing. And the first few chapters were a joy to read but it quickly got to the point where I stopped understanding why there needed to be nearly 400 pages of day-to-day travel journaling of hiking in Northern Ireland. Ahhhh not another charming description of the seaside! Too much!

I learned a lot about Northern Ireland and this was a decent "bedtime book" - a feel-good story that sits on your nightstand but is not exciting enough to keep you turning pages into the wee hours of the morning. I only read a few pages at a time and thus because of the sheer length of the book, it took me months to finish. I was pretty glad to be done it. I probably wouldn't recommend it unless you've spent a lot of time in Northern Ireland. This book would have been more effective as a couple of long-form magazine articles in my opinion.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the author's account of hiking Northern Ireland's Ulster Trail. There is a nice mix of scenery, history, politics, food and drink, weather and generally just meeting people along the way. It is told in a very humorous way. If you like Bill Bryson's style of travel humor this might appeal to you.

[Judd Street · Rating 4 out of 5]

In "Beyond Belfast," Will Ferguson recounts his trip around the Ulster Way, a long-distance hiking trail that roughly follows the perimeter of Northern Ireland. It turns out that "trail" is a bit of a misnomer, as the actual path cuts across plenty of private land, through various impassable bogs, and empties into the middle of highways without much direction. Such is the life, I suppose?

The journey, of course, is actually one of the The Troubles. It's an exploration by foot of significant sites in the country, all too often marred (and made notable) as being sites of violence or bombings. It's an unstable peace that Ferguson finds; a peace that offers little comfort or dependability, and certainly no clear-cut solutions.

As a travelogue, I found this volume quite enjoyable. It's easy reading and a story well-told, although don't come looking for action and adventure. The pages are more full of uneventful strolls, strung together with some history trivia and typical hiker complaints. And yet, Ferguson tells it as a story that keeps you interested through the humanity of it all, if not through the action. It's pleasurable in the same way that a warm cup of tea on a cold winter's day is pleasurable: it's not distinct or memorable or riveting, but it's friendly and comforting all the same.

One note, though: When I logged on to do this review, apparently I had read the book 6 years ago. I have no memory of that read, so maybe that says something about it? This read was certainly enjoyable, even if nothing really stood out.

----
Original Review (May 2013): An enjoyable memoir of Will Ferguson's trip along the Ulster Way in Ireland. While it's a fairly hefty read, and sometimes plods at foot pace with him, it also paints a nuanced picture of the Irish culture, nostalgically taking me back to my own time in Belfast. It's a land of contrasts, clouds, and some crazy cultural moments, and it's a very human tale of the journey along the way. If you're interested in Irish culture or have a thing for hiking-meets-history, it's certainly worth taking a look at.

[Julia · Rating 4 out of 5]

I met Will Ferguson a couple of weeks ago at an Author's event. He is a funny and talented writer. I've read a number of his books and thoroughly enjoyed each one. They are all so different from each other. This is travel book in which he takes the reader along with him as he walks The Ulster Way in Northern Ireland.

Even though a visit to Ireland is on my bucket list, the constant rain and soggy conditions certainly put a damper on my excitement to make that visit.

This is a travel book much like Bill Bryson's books, but Ferguson has his own brand of wit and humour dispersed in his account of this 560 mile trek across Northern Ireland on the Ulster Way. I thought he had a good balance in his writing of the rich and troublesome history of Ireland and his own commentary on the local people and the hard-to-decipher English language they speak and telling us about some of the afflictions he suffered while walking this distance. at times I laughed out loud.

To quote Ferguson in summing up his experience, he says "I think the people who designed The Ulster Way were so enamoured of the idea of one continuous, unbroken circuit that they tried to force everything into a single route, even when it didn't fit. and yet, in spite of the scabies and the food poisoning and the endless soul numbing planted forests and the near-death highway encounters, in spite of all that, I thought of the rolling hills, undulating landscapes, the unspoiled beaches, the scenic valleys, the windswept heights. To walk Ulster,yes, absolutely. To walk the Ulster Way? That's a harder question to answer."

[Mrsgaskell · Rating 4 out of 5]

Gypsysmom lent me this book from her permanent collection and it sounded so good I started reading it almost right away, appropriately on St. Patrick’s Day. How could I resist a book by an author described as a Canadian Bill Bryson?! This was supposed to be funny and I was in need of a few laughs. And I did laugh – out loud on several occasions. (Having spent quite a bit of time in the UK, I am always highly amused by cold toast jokes). As well as making me laugh, the book also made me shake my head at times – the “Troubles” seem incomprehensible to an outsider. I well remember the awful bombing in Omagh because we were in the UK when it happened. The story of Ferguson’s search for his roots adds a fascinating element to his account of his travels. I really enjoyed my trip around Ulster but I’m glad to have experienced it from my comfy spot on the family room couch, dry and snug. I don’t think I would have endured long in the mist, fog, drizzle, and rain, up to my knees in bog! It was definitely worth looking at the slide show on the author’s web site, and I also enjoyed listening to the CBC interview.

[Mel · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wanted to love this book, but it's the first Will Ferguson book that I've read and have not loved. I think that its major weakness was the length and structure. The material was interesting and the stories were interesting on their own, but I would have preferred fewer anecdotes told in greater depth. I didn't need to hear about every single day of his hike, every single village he passed through. I really liked the ending, when he took time to explore his own family and his history, and I wished that he'd tied this theme to his travels throughout the book, instead of mentioning it, then forgetting about it for a hundred pages, then mentioning it again.

I enjoyed reading about the history of Northern Ireland, but again, I thought that these sections were disjointed, a bit tough to follow, and often lacking depth. Some were wonderful, though. The section on Omagh has really stuck with me.

Since it won an award for humour, and since I've laughed heartily through his other books, I also expected a lot more humour. While his travels were amusing, I don't think he told them as hilariously as he did in past books, and I only laughed out loud once or twice.

[LibraryCin · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.75 stars

Will Ferguson set out to walk along the Ulster Way in Northern Ireland, starting and ending in Belfast. The trail was meant to follow all around N. Ireland, but as Will found out, there were plenty of places where the trail seemed nonexistent. Ferguson’s grandfather originally came from Belfast, but Will was trying to dig deeper into his mysterious history. While he was in Ireland, he thought he’d also do some investigating into his orphaned grandfather’s past.

The majority of the book focused on the trip, the walking of the trail, rather than his grandfather’s past. He includes a lot of Irish history and folklore, as he travels through. Ferguson is usually very funny, though I didn’t find this book nearly as funny as some of his others. But, the Irish history was all interesting, and since I like biographies, I was interested in Will’s family history, too. Once I got past the fact that it wasn’t a funny as some of his other stuff, I really enjoyed it.

[Alyssa Faubert · Rating 2 out of 5]

I had high hopes of enjoying this book, so I ended up disappointed - I could give it three stars, but the overall tone of the book often felt negative and sad, as the author often focused on the division of Protestant/Catholic communities, and the violence between them. To be fair, it was likely how his experience felt while hiking - and it is an important part of the history- but it just brought a negative vibe to the story. I enjoyed the ending, and the authors personal link with finding some of his family's history. It did not make me want to hike/visit ireland for most of the book. The last 1/4 was better, and I feel like there are a couple places that would be good to go to, and hike a bit. Overall - I'd not recommend this book, but rather a travel guide for those who want to get excited about a potential visit

[Melanie Baker · Rating 2 out of 5]

Normally I quite enjoy Ferguson's work, and his other travel books provided at least a few LOLs. But this I just found... boring. Ireland is stunning, but that can only be communicated so well in text. Same with the more slapstick aspects of his trip. Kinda have to be seen, rather than read, I think. Plus, as I've experienced myself in assorted countries, a lot of it is very much the same. Hard to distinguish and even harder to spin into interesting stories. The family history was interesting, but the Irish history got repetitive, too. Ireland has had some religious and political "issues" pretty much... forever. Perhaps you'd heard...

[Tracie Taylor · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book and can't wait to visit Ulster in about 18 months from now!

It's a really well-written book about Ferguson's many adventures in Ulster - as you read it, it is easy to imagine that you are right there with him as he gets caught on a fence, almost falls into the ocean or has to deal with a couple of annoying fellow travellers...even better than inspiring me to go, it's a book that I know I'll read again and again...right now, I'm passing it along to my mom!

[writer... · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoying the banter and craic of Canadian Will Ferguson's humourous memoir of his hike across N Ireland.. contains much historical info enroute including political background. I've gained a much broader understanding of the world of Ireland, thanks to Will.

Looked forward to his return to familial Irish roots in 2nd part of book..

[Dayton Reimer · Rating 3 out of 5]

Didn't finish it, but I liked parts

[Alexandra Noga · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book! Although sounds like things have changed significantly in Northern Ireland since Ferguson wrote this book, it was enlightening to read some of the history of this area, especially ‘the troubles’. But… the best thing about it is the trademark Ferguson humor. I laughed a lot! I’ve done walking trips in other parts of the world and can really relate to all the emotions that he experiences in the book (the joy, the sadness, the absurdity, the beauty, the ugliness, the exhilaration, the fatigue….and, of course….the cursing when yet again you are either lost, or the map/guidebook has left out a significant change in your route). Just a lovely read.

[Becks · Rating 4 out of 5]

(If I'm being particular, this was actually a 3.75.) Reading this made me really want to visit Northern Ireland. I thought it had a good mix of observations about the landscape, food, people, politics, and reflections of the country's history. I didn’t mind the interweaving of his family history and was actually kind of excited to see what he would find out. The humour didn't always hit, but that wasn't unexpected. I did read this while listening to Irish instrumental music - highly recommend.

[Andrew · Rating 5 out of 5]

I found this book in a lovely used book store in Sydney, BC. My hope was I’d get lost in it during summer vacation - it did not disappoint! Funny, emotional, real and insightful. Great way to experience Northern Ireland from the ground, and a breathe of fresh air from the depictions found in movies about the people of Ulster. Great read!

[Merrie121 · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read while visiting relatives in Northern Ireland. Insightful observations on the political situation in Ireland and the inhabitants thereof. Good read for a NI holiday.

[Jenna (Falling Letters) · Rating 4 out of 5]

Originally posted 7 January 2011 on Falling Letters.

***

Will Ferguson is a Canadian author known for his books about his travels and about Canadians. The aspect of Ferguson's books I love most is the way he can blend humour and serious reflection (that's the best way I can think of to describe it...). There were plenty of sentences that made me grin while I was reading and there were plenty of sentences that made me feel distraught and melancholic. One reviewer had it right: 'Like Bryson, Ferguson is often as his best (and laugh-out-loud funniest) when most annoyed.', such as when he realizes he's the creepy old man in the youth hostel or when he gets trapped in a church during pilgrim ceremonies. An example of one of the more heartbreaking passages:

"I thought about pensioners under siege on Park Road, about children burning, about off-duty police officers dragged from pubs and kicked to death, about the watery cries for "Revenge!" As I walked toward the shopping plazas in the city centre, I saw a McDonald's at one end, its golden arches catching the light- and I felt a sudden surge of relief. I walked toward the arches, rested my forehead on the cool condensation of its windows, the glass like ice on a fever. It was so comforting, the polished surface, the lack of memory, the lack of any larger context."

I like the perspective of an outsider looking in on another country's struggles, providing a relatively unbiased and balanced perspective and observations on things a native would take for granted. I particularly liked how he distinguished dialects by how they pronounced fokker, fekker, fooker.

He provides a balanced view of the Protestant and Catholics sides. Because neither side is prejudiced towards him, he can interact with both. The fact that Ferguson is Canadian is a bonus. I can easily understand a Canadian perspective and appreciate the little jokes he makes about being Canadian.

Another reason I enjoyed this book is because it's about a subject I know (knew?) next to nothing about. Northern Ireland has always been this fuzzy patch of knowledge in my mind, where I knew it was dangerous and I thought it was dangerous because some Christians were fighting. But that's all I knew. Starting the book was tricky for me because I had trouble keeping the two 'sides' straight, for example, I couldn't remember if the UVF was for Catholics or Protestants and which side was unionist or loyalist, etc. Fortunately, Ferguson provides a handy little 'binary code' of different terms and aspects starting on page 26. He does caution that obviously not all aspects of the two sides can be reduced to this pairing code, but it did help me keep up with the various terms used throughout the book. I very much enjoyed the segments on the history of Ulster. They helped give Ferguson's tale and the current conflicts greater context. I still had trouble remembering names of places. With so much travelling in such a short period of time, bouncing around through all these tiny little villages, I guess that's to be expected. It didn't really detract from my reading experience, though.

As if all that wasn't enough for a good read, there's also a subplot of sorts that sees Ferguson seeking out some lost family history. This book is packed full of all sorts of good things and often reads as though Ferguson is sharing his story with you over a beer. If you've got any interest in Northern Ireland, humour or travel, I would definitely recommend this book.

[Jocelyn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Admitedly, I'm a real sucker for travel writing and when I heard Will Ferguson on CBC talking about walking the Ulster Way in Northern Ireland I knew I'd this book would jump the bedside table queue. That interview impressed me with a single message: No one should walk the Ulster Way, ever.


I'm loving this read. It's so nice to pick up at the end of the day and travel along with him. Will really captures the people of Ulster fantastically (my favourite bit? No Ulsterman can resist a cranky American storming into a pub, thumping down in a stool and studying a map in exasperation). I love that refers to himself as American and the subtle hints of his maybe-aristocratic lineage.

My favourite parts are the stories of the author's Grandfather woven into the text. Some of his romantic language made my teeth hurt ("Ireland is like this bruised potato"? Wha?) but that's not what you pick up a Will Ferguson book for. You read it to catch the stories and the lovely history of his adventure.

Beyond Belfast is full of win, in my view. I really enjoyed traveling along, "meeting" his Grandfather and my original understanding stands true: Though I definitely don't want to walk the entire Ulster Way, I absolutely want to walk parts of it.

I think Ferguson will be an excellent addition to Canada Reads panel. I wonder if he's been on it already? He's seems the type of friend you want to if you ask, "Does dress makes me look fat?" and you really want to know said relationship between dress & fatness :)

[Tony Maxwell · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ulster in the Rain!

I had never heard of Will Ferguson until he won the Giller Prize! Imagine my surprise (and delight) to discover he actually attended the same high school here in little old Red Deer as my son Brad. Though a few years earlier I might add.

Planning to read his award winning novel, 419, I checked out his Amazon page and came across one of his earlier works, "Beyond Belfast." Being a fan of any walking tour that includes humourous asides, a la Paul Theroux and Bill Bryson, I ordered a copy.

I'm very glad that Will decided to walk the Ulster Way; by doing so he saved me from ever having to even think of doing it myself!

I can only echo another reviewer who suggested the reader should relax in front of a warm fire, nursing his or her favourite beverage, and let poor Will do the walking! Not only will you save yourself from the frustrations of dodgy directions, missing (or non-existent) signage, mud, bogs, hostile dogs and more rain than you can ever imagine; you will also learn a great deal about the history and geography of Ulster. A benefit that elevates "Beyond Belfast" high on my list of favourite travel books.

[Paul McBride · Rating 5 out of 5]

Some authors write history books, some write travel narratives, others write books of humor, but author Will Ferguson, combines them all into his travel books. As good as Hitching Rides with Buddha was telling the story of the authors hitch hiking odyssey from the south of Japan, all the way to the very north end, Beyond Belfast is even better! A 560 mile walk around Northern Ireland, encompassing as much of the geography, the people, the history and the culture as is possible. The author does his best to explain what caused "the Troubles" from the very beginning of the country up through the 30 years of the troubles and beyond. He does the whole book in a very entertaining and readable style, that at times will have you laughing out loud- such as death by sausage- to the somber tone when discussing the senseless butchering of often times innocent people during "The Troubles". The descriptions of what a beautiful country Northern Ireland is and the warmth and hospitality of the people Protestant and Catholic alike as well as the quirkiness and craziness that is there, makes for an exceptional piece of storytelling. This is definitely a book worth reading!

[Daniel · Rating 3 out of 5]

For those who enjoy hiking, this is quite an interesting trek. Will Ferguson is a good writer. He circled Northern Ireland by foot, giving us a lesson on history, conflicts, politics and the essential back-in-time sequence searching for his roots. The pubs entered along the trail are described with the approach of a visitor meeting the locals with suspecting looks until the pressure evaporates when they found out that he's a peaceful Canadian desperately in need of a refreshing beer. There is more to this book than that actual hike. Done by car, it would have beeen a different story.

It is great and it shows courage when a person decides to take the time and provide the effort to hike the Ulster the way he did. It is not given to everyone to walk through weather patterns without giving up on the first wet period. Not counting the trail hazards who can be quite scary at times. And the millions of barking dogs along the route, dogs with long teeth, dogs with bad temper, ready to grab one of your calves and splice it right open just for the sake of it.

[Lindsay Nichols · Rating 2 out of 5]

Normally, I like Will Ferguson. I like his writing. Beauty Tips From Moose Jaw is a good book, full of neat little tidbits and tales. Happiness(tm) is one of my favourite books - funny, poignant and just plain good.

Beyond Belfast is not one of his better outings.

The premise is a good one - walk the Ulster Way, the longest waymarked trail in the world. Trek around Northern Ireland, learn about the people, the Troubles, and about family. Seems like a good idea. And it worked quite well for Hitching Rides With Buddha. I mean, who doesn't want to go to another country, walk about, see the sights and then get paid for writing a story about your travels? However, the walk around Northern Ireland gets really boring, really fast. Everything has this strange sameness to it. How many bogs does a man walk round before he becomes an Ulsterman? *yawn*

I wish there had been less about the actual walk and more about his grandfather, a former Barnardo Boy from Ireland. That would have made for a better tale.

[Thomas J · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was in Northern Ireland in 1973 and every night, sitting in my room in Mrs. Kelly's B&B, I could listen to the bombs and the machine guns. Fast forward to 2017, my wife and I were in Belfast, and the place was - OK maybe booming is the wrong word - vibrant! People were having fun! Bars and restaurants were open - nobody was scared. What a wonderful change. But apparently there's still a bit of sectarian anger out there - at least Will Ferguson encountered it a couple of times.

I enjoyed the whole book, especially where he's a 40 something guy sitting a youth hostel wondering why nobody wants to talk to him, and then remembers his 20 yr old backpacking days when there was always some old guy at every youth hostel eating noodles and grumping about the world, and realized "Oh no ...I'm the grumpy old guy!.

And the fact that the trail, although advertised, didn't really exist in may area.

Gotta go. Supper. Read the book, it's good.

T