Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains

by Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent

A thrilling and dangerous adventure though the Himalayan state of Arunachal Pradesh—a mountainous area in to the far north-eastern corner of India—one of the world’s least explored regions.

Arunachal Pradesh—meaning “land of the dawn-lit mountains”—has remained uniquely isolated. Steeped in myth and mystery, not since pith-helmeted explorers went in search of the fabled “ Falls of the Brahmaputra” has an outsider dared to traverse it—until now. Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent sets out to chronicle this forgotten corner of Asia, travelling more than 2,000 miles she encounters shamans, lamas, hunters, opium farmers, fantastic tribal festivals, and little-known stories from the Second World War. In the process, she discovers a world and a way of living that are on the cusp of changing forever.

Beautifully written and vividly told, this is an exciting and exuberant journey through India’s forgotten frontier.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, India, Travelogue, Biography

384 pages, Paperback

First published June 15, 2017

Reviews

[Always Pouting · Rating 1 out of 5]

Couldn't sleep again so I just stayed up all night reading. Before I write about what I think about the book though I just want to say I really do not like being that person, like it makes me very uncomfortable, but this book just felt iffy to me. It wasn't even one thing the author said but like multiple things that just gave it a whole tone that felt patronizing? I am also of south asian descent so I might just be some what sensitive to certain remarks white people tend to make and that might be a part of it. Anyway I don't understand this women's need to mention at least 5 separate times that people stopped her for selfies, the fact that a comment was included made by her mother in law that she would get raped and her then opining that she should cover her white skin because who knew what could tempt whom, another gem quoted from someone saying that the indians got lazy after the british left india, her clear fascination with things like human sacrifices/animal sacrifice in general even though even she admits the human sacrifice thing was based on rumors, the dichotomization between these "tribal" cultures and softern western culture, when she opines about a colonial era building where things had fallen in to disrepair. That's just listing some of the things through out the book that reading made me feel really weird about the whole thing. I will admit to not usually reading travel books so maybe this is just how they all are? But the writing wasn't that great either and I didn't really take much away from this book except like India is some exotic subcontinent where people like to go to have adventure I guess. Also there was a guest appearance of the US military and its racism so I mean I didn't know we where ever in that area great to know we were being shitty there as well.
Also I mean at points the author tries to be somewhat self aware about her limitations and things like colonialism but it doesn't feel like it does much when she kind of has that same mind set of othering people in south asia and the weird fetishizing way she writes about the tribal people. I just feel like in 2019 did I need to be reading this book? The topics glossed on like the geopolitical dynamics were interesting but not much time is spent on them. Plenty of the people she encounters through out the book speak English, wouldn't one of them be better equipped to talk about this region.
Anyway all I really come away with is that who knows what else is in this accumulation of 500 books I have gathered and why did I even request this on netgalley? Its going to be a loooong summer if this is what awaits me with the rest of these books. Also probably should avoid travel books if this is what all of that is about.
Side note if anyone knows good books written about Asia by like the people actually living in Asia that are more detailed about history/culture I would love to read them so let me know.

[Paul · Rating 4 out of 5]

Just on the other side of Bangladesh in the Northeast are a number of states that borders Tibet, Myanmar and Bhutan. Its remoteness means that it has never been on the tourist trail and ongoing posturing from China who dispute the borders in this mountainous region mean that it is not likely to be anytime soon.

One of these states, Arunachal Pradesh, which translates as 'land of the dawn-lit mountains' that is probably the remotest of the lot. Travelling on a small motorbike, called Hero, it is this landscape and people that Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent wants to explore and discover about. It is a landscape that has as many surprises as it does legends and the isolation of the state has ensured that the culture there has remained distinctly different to the rest of India. Accompanied by guides and sometimes travelling alone, she finds the people warm and hospitable regardless if they are shamans or monks. She meets those that accompanied the Dali Lama as he passed through the state to safety. The remoteness of the place means that there are very few roads and while the scenery is breathtaking it can be equally dramatic especially when the monsoon hits.

This little piece of India to the East of Bangladesh can rightly claim to be one of the planets least explored regions. Overcoming her anxieties prior to a trip of this magnitude was an achievement in its own right and Bolingbroke-Kent has written a book here that is thrilling and informative in equal measure. It can, I think, be described as a book that epitomises travel writing; someone very much out of their comfort zone, yet who still manages to discover the wonders of this little-known land and write about it with keen and compassionate observation.

[Chris Steeden · Rating 4 out of 5]

The wonderfully named Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent is on her travels again. This time to the little heard of state of Arunachal Pradesh (‘the land of the dawn-lit mountains’) which is in northeast India. I had previously read ‘A Short Ride in the Jungle: The Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle’ which I really enjoyed so was looking forward to this.

She starts off with a wonderful history of the blighted region which India wants to keep, the Chinese claim is theirs and for many that live there do not want either country owning them. Her plan is to travel 3,000 miles ‘from the humid jungles of the Patkai Hills bordering Burma in the east, to the gompa-clad Himalayan heights of Tawang in the west.’ She has planned two months for this. After an awful lot of preparation, she lands at Guwahati airport in the state of Assam on 01-Feb-2016. Let the adventure begin.

Lots of history and much observation takes the reader to a part of India that does not seem to have anything to do with India. The region is so far removed from Hyderabad and Bangalore it is truly amazing they all belong to the same country. It seems to be more affiliated to Tibet or even Mongolia than India in-respect to culture and way of life. She is travelling solo on a motorbike – a 150cc Hero Impulse – meeting tribes like the Idu Mishmi, Adi, Nyishi and Apatani.

Bruce Parry produced a TV series called Tribe. Each episode was him meeting and then living with a tribe for up-to a month. If you have not seen it, I highly recommend it. Great show. This is a bit like that with Antonia beetling around meeting and staying with different tribes, sometimes for a few hours, sometimes for many days. She gets to see how they live, how they work and how they play. She even stays in a nunnery at one point. She sees first-hand the superstitions, shamans, animal sacrifice to the gods, the dress, the traditions, the familial unit and the hospitality.

It is not a rip-roaring adventure and the book is no less for that. It is an amazing journey. Especially someone doing this solo.

TIP: The map at the beginning of the book is very handy indeed and I was always referring back to it to plot her trip. Google Maps were also very helpful. She provides a very detailed glossary at the back which was indispensable.

[Thebooktrail · Rating 5 out of 5]

Visit the locations in the book

When a travel writer and fearless adventurer heads off to a region of a country I know very little about, I’m more than intrigued. The state of Arunachal Pradesh is tucked in the north of India close to the more perhaps well known tea growing state of Assam.


The title of the book itself made me smile and want to read it. Even the title and cover made me feel like when I opened the pages, the book would glow. The Dawn-Lit Mountains sounds divine and magical and the writing within the book which brought them alive was equally so.

I found it fascinating that the state was so relatively unknown and there was a thrill going here with the writer. A dream to write about for any adventurer – doesn’t every traveller dream of being one of the first if not the very first to discover somewhere.

As expected there are problems with the journey – not the access – shambolic bureaucracy sees to that – but the adjustment to the harsh and at times brutal living conditions (animal lovers will struggle in particular). However the moments of awe overshadowed this – from the many tribes to populate the area to the history of the region and the stunning landscapes evoked with every one of the five senses.

There’s lots to chew over in this book. It’s extremely vivid and captivating and I for one will always admire Antonia for daring to go where not many people have gone before. That frisson of excitement more than lights up this book!

[Chitra Ahanthem · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author sets on a solo trip from Guwahati on to Arunachal Pradesh...and I couldnt but help notice that she had a string of fixers and guides to help her during her travel...that said...the travel account takes the reader through terrian that not many know of...including a bit of history of the not so much known about region of NE India.

[Amy · Rating 2 out of 5]

Real rating 2.5

Look, there was some nice writing in here, and the subject matter was interesting enough for me to finish it, but that's about it.

I don't really know what I was expecting from middle-class white British woman rides around India on a motorbike, but the vibes weren't quite right for me.

[Audrija Choudhury · Rating 5 out of 5]

Full five stars for it. It is a highly informative read that touches almost every aspect of Arunachal Pradesh. Highly enjoyed it specifically the description of the not so frequented places that give peace even by browsing the pages...are worth read.

[Benjamin Stahl · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not the best travel book I've read, but certainly not the worst either. The writer sometimes annoyed me, but often she does have some great insights and is likable enough. Without a doubt, she writes beautifully. Unlike many a great travel book, while this one certainly made me interested enough to look up parts of Arunachal Pradesh online, it did not fill me with much desire to actually go there. India, definitely. But personally, I am drawn more to the western side, especially the north around Punjab and Rajasthan, where I imagine there would be more Islamic influence, with Pakistan and Central Asia lying beyond the border.

[Poram Ronya · Rating 3 out of 5]

First of, I am from Arunachal and I admit to a certain level of bias in my review. Having said that, I cannot help but feel this sense of patronization. The author undoubtedly hails from the North divide and it shows. It shows in their way of writing, of describing their experiences here. Nevertheless, it is undoubtedly well-written and provides a fairly detailed account. All in all, it is a decent read which at the very least tries to shed some light on our invisible little paradise in this cesspool of concrete jungles around the world.

[Felicity · Rating 5 out of 5]

Some travel books are more jam-packed with adventure than others. This book is jam-packed with adventures and tales from a place many people possibly haven't even heard of (I hadn't). I felt like I was with Antonia the whole way because of the brilliant descriptions. I was rooting for her and really felt the warmness of the incredibly kind and compassionate strangers she met. A really fab read covering a range of travel topics and issues.

[Rajiv Chopra · Rating 5 out of 5]

I approached this book with some trepidation. One more white traveller exploring the exotic East. Yet, as I continued journey through the book, I found myself to be completely engrossed in Antonia's travels.

She approached the trip and the people with a lot more sensitivity than we do, as Indians. Her writing style is lucid, humble, and she draws a fascinating portrait of the people of Arunachal Pradesh.

Salute!

[Rakhi · Rating 4 out of 5]

The north-eastern most state that shares border with Assam and Nagaland to the South and international borders with Bhutan in the west, Burma in the east and China to the North with a Mac mohan Line. The largest of the north-eastern states known as the Seven Sister States, Orchid State of India, Paradise of the Botanists. Adjectives are numerous when it comes to Arunachal Pradesh but still it a state that is still unknown to the world and even Indians where in many of the natives themselves believe that they don't belong to India. In authoress's words, the forgotten land. A major passage of drugs, ammunition and black money. Writing a travelogue about such a state is any authors dream and the riskiest task at that. Antonio has made her dream come true through the book.

Grabbing a permission to enter the place is a herculean task, which was made easy for the author-Thanks to the corrupt and inefficient bureaucracy. With the help of a fictitious character John, authoress gets hold of the permission by the officials. Dangerous as it is authoress starts her journey from Guwahati in the two wheeler provided by her aide. Thenceforth starts the most adventurous, suspenseful real journey I have ever witnessed. A woman in her two wheeler travelling all the way from Assam to Arunachal Pradesh upto the Tibetan borders- I was literally having goosebumps where he rode through roads that are name sake amidst deluge. We become the pillion riders and forgets the fact that the trip was already over and I kept on worrying if she would be able to complete the book. The animal sacrifice and the heartlessness of the same send a shiver down my spine. It is difficult to believe that a land that is developing at an enviable rate has a state that is still in the 19th or 18th century so to speak.

The trouble she took in adjusting to the extreme conditions and the ramshackle buildings(Inspection Bungalow) is highly appreciated and surprising especially for a foreigner in India. The sequences with Dojre and the history of Guru Rinpoche is interesting to read. The experiences with different tribes is also refreshing. To remember all the names is difficult and to take the information blast forward we need to read the book more than once. The quest of the secrets of Tsangpo whether it is Brahmaputra is one of the highlights of the book.

Authoress has generously mocked the lack of planning and the corruption in the Indian bureaucracy. The perspective of the author is anti Modi and and she has at some point implied that the Manmohan government has been concerned about the environment and current government concentrates purely on the development and ignores environment and even made pseudo commissions to get sanction, which I felt could have been avoided. This is a travelogue and not political discussion. The deviation is a major put off.

The book is definitely not an easy read. Take this book only if you want to read something of substance rather than as a pastime.


This review is in return of a free book from the publisher

[Zoe Langley-Wathen · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a superb account of an exciting trip on two wheels, into the heart of almost uncharted territory - Aranachal Pradesh. There's something for everyone; adventure, vulnerability, journeying (both physically and psychologically), solo travel by a woman on a motorbike, emotion of just about every label, pitfalls and social interaction with different cultures and tribes. Even the moments of conscience when faced with food or ceremonies involving animals, as a vegetarian, Ants handled these situations with sensitivity. Places, people and landscape are brought to life by her eloquent choice of description.

I appreciated the extensive research undertaken by the author with regard to historical aspects of the villages visited and the way of life assumed by each area. The glossary was in full use throughout, as I could never have read and understood some of the traditions, dress accessories or foods without it. It added a whole new layer of context for me.

Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains was chosen as one of my read-aloud books, to share with my husband. I had great fun trying to pronounce some of the unusual Indian names and terms, for his benefit.

In summary, reading this book was like watching a slick adventure documentary unfold throughout the text. I've honestly closed the book feeling like I've undertaken a memorable journey myself.

[Kerem Ince · Rating 4 out of 5]

In this book where Antonia writes about her inspiring journey at the corner of India, I could find myself in her meditations, especially when she romanticises or complains about globalisation. It became quickly apparent that she makes a journalistic research before she gets somewhere and thus provides a broad context at her writing.

Funny when one thinks that she is often called a "Britisher" in India, I could feel britishness in each page of this book; sometimes it is in what she ends up focusing on and sometimes in how she perceives other's actions. With this I felt like travel is a hobby of Antonia (as she writes in the book) and not her way of being. This is reflected in that she writes of what went on as an observer, rather than a casual doer, if this is not only due the reporting nature of the book. Meanwhile, this makes the book relatable and personally encouraging. I truly enjoyed reading.

[Book Grocer · Rating 5 out of 5]

Purchase Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains here for just $8!

A great read that I recommend to anyone who enjoys travelling, travelogues or adventures. It takes guts to undertake a trip like this and Antonia has that in abundance. Through her eyes you see all nature has to offer, the amazing landscapes, jungles and roaring rivers of this little known part of North East India. There is plenty of humour thrown in, along with the highs and lows of her journey, so it’s not just all serious, I really enjoyed this book.
Alicia, The Book Grocer.

[Simone B · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this book while travelling alone and loved how the author described the transformation power of solo travel: 'Solo travel is like a drug - it has its risks, but also has the potential to unlock rare feelings of euphoria. Only when I've been totally alone, miles from anywhere or anyone I know, have I experienced it's pure, unbridled joy'.

This book tells the journey of what happens when we take risks, trust our intuition and challenge ourselves to go somewhere we've never been before. It really can set us free. And it also tells the fascinating stories of the people and culture of Arunachal Pradesh, weaving together a rich history with the author's experiences. It's a well researched book with depth and humour that provides a wonderful glimpse into travel far off the beaten track.

[Oborozukyo · Rating 3 out of 5]

This wasn’t a bad book on travelling round his region, but I’ve read *a lot* of books on women travelling round Tibet, northern India and Nepal, many of which were much better.

I’m not sure whether it was the modernity I disliked or the digressions into the whole personal journey that I found annoying (or taking a yoga mat to India), but I don’t understand the large amount of praise that has been heaped on this book.

its a shame, as she’s written books about travelling round Vietnam apparently and I’ve not read any travel books from that region, but I just don’t get on with the writing style

[Simon Hall · Rating 5 out of 5]

A journey through uncharted territories

Loved this book, the first one I have read by the author. Very insightful and well researched thus adding knowledge as a backdrop to the travel tale. I love her determination to get the job done despite numerous obstacles and lack of self pity when things do go wrong, as someone who has been travelling the subcontinent for many years I admire her admission of powerlessness of India's ways and the go with the flow ethos that one has to adopt. Antonia engages with the locals at their level, without resorting to condescension or being unable to see the world through other's eyes. Am already looking forward to reading more from her.

[Rocky Ghosh · Rating 5 out of 5]

Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent, sets out to chronicle this forgotten corner of Asia. Travelling some 2,000 miles, she encounters shamans, lamas, hunters, opium farmers, fantastic tribal festivals and little-known stories from the Second World War.

In the process, she discovers a world and a way of living that are on the cusp of changing forever.

Read the Book and set for a thrilling, dangerous and spine chilling adventure through Arunachal Pradesh, one of the world's least explored places.

Praise and Bow goes to Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent for delivering us this fascinating trip.

[Joyce Fant · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed getting a glimpse into the author's self and the various intriguing people she met and got a little bit acquainted with their cultures and lives. Sadly I felt mostly disconnected from the environment and was not able to immerse myself in it. I am not certain whether the many kilometres that she covered in such a short time contributed to this. I would have appreciated brief descriptive passages to be transported to the region.

[Leong Chin Yee · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wanted to read this book cos it was abt a region that I am interested in and enjoy visiting. Her accounts of the various places does brings interest though I found it hard to keep at it, not sure why cos I usually enjoy travel books. Nevertheless, it does gives new insights to a region that I thought I am familiar with.

[Nick Elliott · Rating 5 out of 5]

A remarkable journey ...

A lively, sympathetic and often amusing account of a fascinating and little known corner of the world. It’s a tough journey but the author is a stoic adventurer. Like any good travel book it’s the people she encounters and their fascinating lifestyles that grips you.

[Daniel Taylor · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very good book with insights about the people, life, landscape and history of Arunachal Pradesh and surrounding areas. If you're reading this looking for a similar sort of read to 'A short ride through the jungle' then you are in luck. Unsurprisingly, the writing is a similar style. Great read.

[Ben Twoonezero · Rating 3 out of 5]

She goes to interesting places, meets interesting people but she is not a scintillating traveling companion. I always feel some one else could write a better more entertaining book from the same trip.

[Chris · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting journey around an interesting place.
The writing is pretty good, but the author's need to sum up and philosophise about the experiences herself rather than allowing the reader to, rubbed me the wrong way

[Cats 274 · Rating 4 out of 5]

My travels to India were much less eventful and daring, so I sort of knew what to expect from a travel writer. But this book was much, much more, and I enjoyed it very much. Interesting, exciting, witty.

[Anne S. · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was interesting to read about a part of the world that I knew nothing about. The author's style of writing ranged from the poetic to the discussion of disgusting bathrooms. Although she repeatedly said she wasn't judging the people and customs, she sounded like that's what she was doing.

[Carol Griffiths · Rating 3 out of 5]

Perhaps 3.5 stars. An interesting travel tale about a remote part of India. We are introduced to many fascinating tribal people and the joys (and horrors) of getting about the north eastern reaches of India are well described.

[Varun Bhakay · Rating 3 out of 5]

25.1

I didn't enjoy this as much as I wanted to, primarily because the writing somehow did not come together for me. That being said, it is still an interesting read for anyone interested in travelogues and is a fount of information on the great place that is Arunachal Pradesh.

[Jabu · Rating 4 out of 5]

Funny, informative and easy to read. Great way of learning about the Arunachal.