He saw it in people’s eyes before he ever pitched the idea to Te Araroa’s trustees. Every walker, or “tramper,” he brought in on preliminary discussions lit up at the possibility. Geoff Chapple was simply kidnaped by the question … could all the walking trails from top to bottom of New Zealand’s North Island be linked up? He admits later that when he initiated the project, he had little idea of what he was getting into.
In journalistic fashion, Chapple opens with detailed accounts of the lay of the land, road and trail conditions, legalities, planning, political matters, and funding. Then, he does the harder part … he puts on his boots, grabs his “Lekis,” walking sticks, and heads out on a grueling test of the proposed 3,000-kilometer trail.
The ultimate North Island experience, we follow him as he explores landscapes and mixes with locals, the narrative unfolding in such as way that only traveling on foot can do. He slogs through mud and brush, retraces logging routes, explores hunting grounds, negotiates treacherous icy ridges, looking for a way through. In a truly cinematic style, he gives vivid accounts of the animals, inhabitants, geographic details, and climate. The North Island is a foreboding place, from its unforgiving mud pits to goblin forests, the terrain itself fuels undeniably exciting moments and high stakes. Chapple’s excursions remind me of Bilbo Baggins setting out from his comfortable hobbit hole to journey through Middle Earth, only to end up in a sinister Dark Land. Similarly, Geoff Chapple must use his wits and common sense to navigate a beautifully unmerciful world.
Woven throughout are references to local tribes, literary, historic, and religious figures. Miners, timber men, farmers, and shearers that once populated the country are few and far between. Trampers, hunters, bikers, jetboaters, and campers have overrun the wilderness once inhabited by Maori tribes. People along the way are as diverse as the island’s geography. You’ll have to read the book for yourself to find out what a table crawler is, or a bucket racer!
Even so, due to geographic and climate extremes, the landscape remains somewhat “untouched”… “the podocarp forests are spiritual groves.” Razorback hills, glaciated valleys, dense bush, muddy rivers, narrow gorges, gentian, harebell, “little lichen crying out for sun,” cabbage trees, blue and green lakes, icy surrounds, and plumes of boiling sulphur evoke the imagery of a world apart.
When the nights of sleeping under stars and in dripping tents loop back home, Chapple, who believes “in small gods and good luck,” carries on with unwavering determination to secure funding, rally volunteers, and navigate political conundrums with individuals who are as untamed as the landscape.
This book is brimming with a certain badland charm that strips away all pretense. A whole culture and landscape is contained within this captivating excursion guide/memoir. Te Araroa The New Zealand Trail: One Man Walks His Dream shows the confidence and polish of a skilled journalist. Highly recommended for anyone wanting to become acquainted with New Zealand, a fiercely wild and fascinating place.