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Under the Table: Saucy Tales from Culinary School
A deliciously entertaining memoir about one woman’s adventures in the student kitchens of the legendary French Culinary Institute—flavored with celebrity chefs, eccentric characters, and mouthwatering recipes
To anyone who has ever dreamed of life in a French kitchen, Katherine Darling serves up a savory dose of reality in this funny, fascinating, and altogether delightful account of her time spent slaving over a hot stove, wrestling with veal calves, and cleaning fish heads at The French Culinary Institute.
As she goes from clueless amateur to certified chef, Katherine and her quirky fellow students frequently find themselves the objects of scorn as their teachers wage psychological warfare over steaming pots of bisque. It’s a cutthroat world, and no one ever made a soufflé without breaking a few eggs—or cracking a few heads together.
Filled with delicious food lore and trivia, and including dozens of classic and original French recipes, Under the Table takes readers deep into the trenches of one of the world’s most prestigious cooking schools—and shows what really goes on behind the doors of every great restaurant kitchen.
To anyone who has ever dreamed of life in a French kitchen, Katherine Darling serves up a savory dose of reality in this funny, fascinating, and altogether delightful account of her time spent slaving over a hot stove, wrestling with veal calves, and cleaning fish heads at The French Culinary Institute.
As she goes from clueless amateur to certified chef, Katherine and her quirky fellow students frequently find themselves the objects of scorn as their teachers wage psychological warfare over steaming pots of bisque. It’s a cutthroat world, and no one ever made a soufflé without breaking a few eggs—or cracking a few heads together.
Filled with delicious food lore and trivia, and including dozens of classic and original French recipes, Under the Table takes readers deep into the trenches of one of the world’s most prestigious cooking schools—and shows what really goes on behind the doors of every great restaurant kitchen.
365 pages, Paperback
First published March 29, 2009
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 82 reviews
February 11, 2017
We all have a hidden bitch that criticises and plots revenge against those who snub or humiliate us, but most of us wouldn't dream of putting it out there in a book. It seems to have upset quite a lot of 1/2 star reviewers. What do they want? That the author pretends to be a saint and is not going to stick a carving fork in someone's bottom (she actually does it. It is well-deserved). I think some people always want to read about humble people who don't boast of their own achievements, fling their shortcomings out there for the world to see and are always kind and gentle about other people and well, float on clouds with harps before their time.
Personally, I really like people who are as nasty as me on the inside. Gives me hope I might be redeemed or at least not consigned to sitting on the naughty step in poverty.
I loved this book. The author left a job in publishing to go to the French Institute for the Culinary Arts, headed by Jacques Pépin and do a six month intensive culinary course. She describes the course, the whys and wherefore's of how certain steps in recipes are necessary, gives actual recipes - the one on how to make thrice-cooked souffle potatoes is excellent - and slags off any fellow student or lecturer who makes her feel small. I enjoyed that quite a lot.
The book is mostly about her time in the culinary school but also about her social and boyfriend and wedding on a remote Caribbean island (I wondered if it was mine). The ending is a bit sad though. She had to work as a tutor for rich Upper East Side children to fund her education and as such misses out on interning in top restaurants as they don't pay a dime. She graduates top of her class but no one wants to hire a high achiever without any experience. So she goes back into publishing, but food-writing this time. It is surprising how many of her fellow chefs went into food-related occupations after graduation but not as chefs. I wonder if it is also because of their lack of experience?
Very enjoyable book with great recipes, one per chapter. I look forward to more from this author and would absolutely love to have lunch with her (she can cook) and hear what the NY publishing scene is really like.
Personally, I really like people who are as nasty as me on the inside. Gives me hope I might be redeemed or at least not consigned to sitting on the naughty step in poverty.
I loved this book. The author left a job in publishing to go to the French Institute for the Culinary Arts, headed by Jacques Pépin and do a six month intensive culinary course. She describes the course, the whys and wherefore's of how certain steps in recipes are necessary, gives actual recipes - the one on how to make thrice-cooked souffle potatoes is excellent - and slags off any fellow student or lecturer who makes her feel small. I enjoyed that quite a lot.
The book is mostly about her time in the culinary school but also about her social and boyfriend and wedding on a remote Caribbean island (I wondered if it was mine). The ending is a bit sad though. She had to work as a tutor for rich Upper East Side children to fund her education and as such misses out on interning in top restaurants as they don't pay a dime. She graduates top of her class but no one wants to hire a high achiever without any experience. So she goes back into publishing, but food-writing this time. It is surprising how many of her fellow chefs went into food-related occupations after graduation but not as chefs. I wonder if it is also because of their lack of experience?
Very enjoyable book with great recipes, one per chapter. I look forward to more from this author and would absolutely love to have lunch with her (she can cook) and hear what the NY publishing scene is really like.
November 26, 2010
Do you remember that blonde that was in your class at the French Culinary Institute? Well, she's written a pretty nasty book about all of you! I read this book because my sister and I had eaten at L'Ecole while I lived in CT. The food was great; I wanted to get a little peek behind the scenes. Some of the recipes were interesting, (rabbit, anyone?) but I found the author to be whiny and self-serving. Some of her rants about her fellow classmates would put a middle school student to shame. To top it all off, she never even works as a chef "What worked against me even more than my lack of restaurant experience (duh--my comment) was my GPA--it seemed that many chefs wanted to hire people to work in the kitchen whom they could mold to their own way of doing things..." Really? An employer wants you to do things their way?
July 27, 2009
An interesting book - decently written. The only problem is an extremely unsympathetic protagonist, which is a huge issue in a memoir as you're not only rooting against the main character, but then also against the author by default. The few times you're allowed a peek into emotion or true depth it's tied up neatly with a pat ending. I loved the descriptions of culinary school - but other than that this book is a pass.
February 21, 2015
I am going to finish this book despite its shortcomings. It is written in an incredibly sophomoric style, redolent with cliches and worn out phrasing. Don't do it. I'm only doing it because my darling (no pun intended) niece went through the program and thus my interest was piqued. Piqued no more! Avoid this literary Twinkie.
July 26, 2015
At risk of making overly harsh comparison, I found myself repeatedly thinking back to Julie Powell's "Cleaving" as I read "Under the Table".
Both books are ones where the reader needs to take care to distinguish between the story (generally good in my view) and the person being written about (less so). Darling and (more so) Powell came across as self-absorbed and inconsiderate as individuals yet managed to do so through the medium of a well written story.
Provided the reader keep that caveat in mind, I do still recommend reading this.
Both books are ones where the reader needs to take care to distinguish between the story (generally good in my view) and the person being written about (less so). Darling and (more so) Powell came across as self-absorbed and inconsiderate as individuals yet managed to do so through the medium of a well written story.
Provided the reader keep that caveat in mind, I do still recommend reading this.
May 4, 2009
Not quite "saucy" and there was something a little off. Her classmates were not quite fleshed out and neither was her boyfriend/husband or even herself. I was left feeling like something was missing- a sense of the people? a genuine look at cooking school? For a fairly lengthy, wordy book it felt flimsy.
July 26, 2009
What can I say, i seem to have an addiction for these books. Loved reading her stories about the struggles of culinary school. The recipes look and, for the few I attempted, are delicious. Katherine's determination and sense of humor come shining through. Hooray for going after your dream and not quitting till you get there.
May 12, 2014
To be honest when I first started reading this book I found myself rolling my eyes and thinking oh, great here's another one. Great home cook who decides to parlay into a restaurant kitchen. Once I gave the book I chance I found myself enjoying the ride. Darling, who left a soul sucking office job decides to enroll in the program at the French Culinary Institute. She lives in NYC with her boyfriend so it is a sound decision for multiple reasons. She begins at the beginning like all her fellow classmates. She connects with like minded people who have a similar commitmemnt to doing the best job. Of course, there is a mean girl, Mimi who carries a Birkin and some serious attitude and then Chef Cyndee- who is one of the assistant chefs who immediately dislikes Darling. While Darling has trouble figuring it out when you look at her author picture, you'll get it. If you are not so pretty and on the chubbier side- a petite attractive blonde is not going to be your favorite person. Some of the chefs are good and treat their students kindly, while others feel that must humiliate and debase their students. The hijinks among the students are entertaining and at times quite painful. The book is paced well and at the end of each chapter Darling includes relevant recipes with her own suggestions. While there is not much in the way of new territory being covered, Darling keeps it fresh with her observations of her fellow students, the chef instructors, and even brings in some of her personal life.
May 27, 2009
Enjoyable look at the inner workings of the program at the French Culinary Institute. I agree with some of the other reviewers that the author excels describing the food, but not so much the people. Still an entertaining read...my favorite remains The Making of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman.
September 26, 2010
Katherine Darling is a young woman living in NYC in the publishing business. One day she decides that she wants to go to culinary school and hone the skills that she was introduced to in her family kitchen. She comes from a family that debates over what pies to make at Thanksgiving. I do not recollect the number but believe that there would be about 4-5 different pies served-although her family was not a fan of turkey.
At Thanksgiving she announces her big plans to her parents and grandparents to see what the reaction would be. Who would not want a chef in their home. I would love one.
Her book chronicles her experience through culinary school, from receiving her set of knives, apron and pants, through the various lesson, making stocks, dicing vegetables, cooking poultry and fish, breads and desserts onto the more sophisticated lessons.
What I truly appreciated about the books were some of the cooking techniques she shares with her readers. Simple little tricks that one may not have an appreciation for. Of course I always welcome a selection of recipes. The recipes she included are all quite simple, just a little heavy on the calories.
I would highly recommend this book for anyone who enjoys cooking or wants a little insight into the lives of culinary school and the students. One of Darling's colleagues came from Michigan, having worked in the auto industry. As a twenty something year old he leaves his wife and children behind for 6 months to pursue an education in culinary school. I loved the stories of her classmates, students who were willing to try something different and take a chance.
As a first time writer, Darling has given us a true treasure. Her combination of a few recipes, six months of culinary lessons, some tales about the French chef instructors and a wonderful use of the English language has baked up a true culinary read. Readers can hear the accent of her Gallic instructors as they critique and praise the student's progress in the kitchen.
This book will stay on my shelf for the recipes and tips she has included alone.
At Thanksgiving she announces her big plans to her parents and grandparents to see what the reaction would be. Who would not want a chef in their home. I would love one.
Her book chronicles her experience through culinary school, from receiving her set of knives, apron and pants, through the various lesson, making stocks, dicing vegetables, cooking poultry and fish, breads and desserts onto the more sophisticated lessons.
What I truly appreciated about the books were some of the cooking techniques she shares with her readers. Simple little tricks that one may not have an appreciation for. Of course I always welcome a selection of recipes. The recipes she included are all quite simple, just a little heavy on the calories.
I would highly recommend this book for anyone who enjoys cooking or wants a little insight into the lives of culinary school and the students. One of Darling's colleagues came from Michigan, having worked in the auto industry. As a twenty something year old he leaves his wife and children behind for 6 months to pursue an education in culinary school. I loved the stories of her classmates, students who were willing to try something different and take a chance.
As a first time writer, Darling has given us a true treasure. Her combination of a few recipes, six months of culinary lessons, some tales about the French chef instructors and a wonderful use of the English language has baked up a true culinary read. Readers can hear the accent of her Gallic instructors as they critique and praise the student's progress in the kitchen.
This book will stay on my shelf for the recipes and tips she has included alone.
April 9, 2010
This was mildly interesting, but I found it very hard to connect enough with the author to really care about what happened to her. To begin with, she characterizes upstate New York - both Hyde Park and Poughkeepsie areas - as "armpits". Offensive AND untrue. While she writes some about life with her boyfriend, I could not sympathize with her on that, either. He plays online poker for hours, insists that she cook a dish and accompany him to a dinner party the night before her midterm, and most damning of all, when she is run over by a bicyclist and suffers a concussion, he can barely look at her because of the blood. He takes her home and heads off to a poker game. I was left feeling seriously annoyed with him and wondered why she put it up with it all.
I also could not get past her reaction upon learning that her grandfather was in the hospital in serious condition. Her cell phone is taken away because personal calls during class are not allowed. Instead of grabbing it back and explaining what has happened, she quietly heads back to class. That was the point where I totally stopped caring.
I also could not get past her reaction upon learning that her grandfather was in the hospital in serious condition. Her cell phone is taken away because personal calls during class are not allowed. Instead of grabbing it back and explaining what has happened, she quietly heads back to class. That was the point where I totally stopped caring.
May 26, 2017
I know Kate. She's moved to Upstate New York and works in a very popular coffee shop that also sells motorcycles and gear. She's a brilliant chef. I love watching her use a blowtorch on Brie and making delicious sandwiches, soups, salads and crispy waffles.
She loves her work, and her passion comes through in her cooking. For anyone who's read her book, this should not be a surprise. Her shop is dog friendly. She's a big dog lover, and feeds our Daisy prosciutto, so naturally Daisy loves Kate.
I adore Kate's book. Some of us romanticize what it would be like to study to become a chef. Kate pulls back the curtain so we can see what it's really like. She's a brilliant writer with a healthy dose of sarcasm and self insight. She certainly has paired her love of writing and cooking in a most ideal way.
Kate shows us that cooking school is not for the feint hearted. The competition and sabotage is intense. The instructors are brutal. But many friendships are forged by fire through unforgettable experiences. And in the end, Kate emerges triumphant, but not unscathed.
She loves her work, and her passion comes through in her cooking. For anyone who's read her book, this should not be a surprise. Her shop is dog friendly. She's a big dog lover, and feeds our Daisy prosciutto, so naturally Daisy loves Kate.
I adore Kate's book. Some of us romanticize what it would be like to study to become a chef. Kate pulls back the curtain so we can see what it's really like. She's a brilliant writer with a healthy dose of sarcasm and self insight. She certainly has paired her love of writing and cooking in a most ideal way.
Kate shows us that cooking school is not for the feint hearted. The competition and sabotage is intense. The instructors are brutal. But many friendships are forged by fire through unforgettable experiences. And in the end, Kate emerges triumphant, but not unscathed.
May 7, 2009
Under the Table follows Katherine Darling through a six month culinary program at The French Culinary Institute in New York City. Katherine has quit her job in the publishing industry after much consideration and decided to pursue her love of food full-time. But, culinary school is greuling and at times she wonders if she will actually make it out intact. It was a very well-written book and very entertaining as well. I thought it was a little similar to The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry by Kathleen Flinn, but very good especially if you like reading about the food/chef industry.
November 23, 2009
I got to page 100 out of 365, when I realized I didn't like this book. It wasn't a struggle to finish but it wasn't very good. there must be more to culinary school than what this author presents. She breezes through the real goods and spends mounds of time instead on what clothes she wore, how she got her chef's clothes taliored, and how she was proposed to. Also, she comes off as a little snotty. The picture on the back page of the author adds to that impression. I would have left it at 1 star but it was written simply enough that I could get through it quickly, and I just like reading about culinary school even if the decent portions are only a fourth of the book.
June 1, 2009
I have been enjoying these nonfiction tales that deal with authors' forays into the world of gourmet food. Katherine Darling writes of her 6 month program at NY's Culinary Institute of America - a very intense program. If you like Top Chef and other similar shows you may like this one. I like "Service Included" better that is partly due to my identifying and liking the voice of that writer more. Makes one hungry and appreciative of what can go into what is served to you ... and why things can cost for all the labor, imagination and more that goes into it.
December 8, 2009
This book was just great. Katie Darling quits her job in publishing and enrolls in cooking school. We hear of her ups and downs, mishaps and relationships with her fellow students. Her analogies are funny-trussing a chicken so it will cook more evenly that if it was left to loll in the roasting pan like a fat man in a beach chair. At the end of each chapter is a recipe. A fun book to read but alas I dont think I will be leaving the medical profession to become a chef, just subjecting my familly to some creative cooking
June 6, 2010
A nice insight to culinary school. The author has some funny anecdotes but they become more predictable as the book goes on. It is a little disappointing that the author graduates first in her class but doesn't have a plan to go on to something after she finishes school. She ends up writing for a food magazine but doesn't actually use her culinary skills in real life situations. Darling complains that she has a lot of money tied up in student loans but doesn't actually go to work as a chef to pay them off. Each to his/her own.
July 25, 2009
A New York City woman decides to change careers and undergoes six grueling months at the French Culinary Institute.
This was a very interesting take on the cooking industry. Cooking school definitely seems to be a high pressure experience, and Katherine definitely conveys this. The only quibble I had was that the book seemed to focus too long on the first two levels, with only some glancing stories from the upper two. It would have been nice to learn more about the advanced levels too.
This was a very interesting take on the cooking industry. Cooking school definitely seems to be a high pressure experience, and Katherine definitely conveys this. The only quibble I had was that the book seemed to focus too long on the first two levels, with only some glancing stories from the upper two. It would have been nice to learn more about the advanced levels too.
September 12, 2009
My summary: I was brave to leave a low level job that paid the bills and go to cooking school, which was really really hard (and we drank a lot although me not as much as others) and I was the best in the class. OK, maybe I'm being harsh, but this is not the first book written about cooking school. Maybe my NYC writer bias is popping up again. There were some tidbits about food science and why you do certain things, but overall, nothing stood out as particularly interesting.
November 20, 2014
Apparently now everyone who goes to culinary school must write a book about it. This was an okay way to pass a few hours, but her anecdotes were not all that compelling. One in particular had me snorting in disbelief - if your grandfather was dying and you were on the phone with your grandmother about that, would you really not tell the dean when he takes your phone away? You'd just sputter & then go back to class? The descriptions of food were nice, but there are better books out there.
May 2, 2011
This is a light and fluffy, easy-to-read and quite entertaining book about culinary school. This topic very much interests me, if done the way I like it--not too many flowing, adjective-heavy gushes about food...but not too few. Also, I got to know the 'characters' well, enough to know that I didn't much care for the author's boyfriend! If you've ever been curious as to what goes on at culinary school with the food AND the people, but don't want to actually attend, this is the title for you.
July 10, 2011
I like this book because of the inside look at going through culinary school - seals the deal that I don't want to do that. I didn't much like the author/main character, though. She seems rather silly/stupid at several points in the story, as well as a bit arrogant/self-important. She has tons of clothing/fashion references I have no basis for understanding. Absolutely a chick book. There are some recipes included. I didn't try any before I gave the book back to the library.
November 19, 2011
I loved this. As a culinary student, it makes me really glad that I attend the community college version. It may not have the cachet as one of the big name schools, and it may take longer to get through, but at least I get some sleep - and our instructors don't yell at us quite that much, although at least one has made me cry. In his defense, I really deserved it at the time.
This was one of those books that I wanted to read again almost as soon as I finished it.
This was one of those books that I wanted to read again almost as soon as I finished it.
March 28, 2012
So this is the story of Ms. Darling who quits her stable job in publishing to enter into the intense and unknown world of culinary school.
I have to admit that I loved the descriptions of culinary school (I can only dream of having the author's talent). However, I suspect that Ms. Darling might be a bit of a jerk. She is not very kind to her live-in boyfriend and didn't do much to befriend her fellow classmates. I find myself enjoying the story much more than I like the story-teller.
I have to admit that I loved the descriptions of culinary school (I can only dream of having the author's talent). However, I suspect that Ms. Darling might be a bit of a jerk. She is not very kind to her live-in boyfriend and didn't do much to befriend her fellow classmates. I find myself enjoying the story much more than I like the story-teller.
Want to read
August 5, 2009Yeah, I'm not going to finish this one. I agree with Rachel's review. It wasn't "saucy" enough for me, and I felt like the characters were guarded, as if you never *really* got to know any of the key players. I lost interest for now but might pick it back up in the future.
July 22, 2009
Enjoyable. The stories she tells are very interesting, and she explains cooking methods well. She over-uses adjectives a lot, which bothered me throughout the book. I also didn't find the author a sympathetic narrator--it felt to me that she knew she was good, but didn't want the reader to think she knew she was good. The book was just full fake humility.
July 26, 2009
The author is a good writer but I thought the tales would be more exciting or that there would be more drama to the book. Also, after finishing the book I know a lot about cooking school but very little about the writer which seems odd for creative nonfiction. Oh well, it was an interesting read just not as exciting as I was hoping for.
August 5, 2010
This was a fun little book. It didn't blow me away and I didn't find the author particularly endearing or likable (it's written in the first person), but it was neat to have an inside look at what culinary school is like for those of us daydreaming about it. I'd recommend it for anyone who loves to cook and entertains the culinary school fantasy.
May 3, 2011
I've been reading a lot of this cooking school bio/memoirs/food writing books, and this wasn't at the top of my list. I just didn't love it. I'm not sure how much I actually got to know the author or her fellow classmates - or the food really. And it felt really rushed. If you are looking to read a book like this, this isn't the one to read...at least it wasn't for me.
September 26, 2011
I enjoyed this quick, light read. But Darling's vile, unapologetic contempt for so many (namely; most women, most people over 30 and anyone unable to acknowledge that she is the most important, hard-working person in the universe) was a great distraction. The author could use a lesson or two from Michael Ruhlman or Kathleen Flinn.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 82 reviews