Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood's Celebrated Costume Designer

by David Chierichetti

Edith Head is widely considered the most important figure in the history of Hollywood costume design. Her career spanned nearly half a century and included such classic films as Rear Window and Sunset Boulevard . Her private life and professional achievements have been the subject of speculation since she rose to the top in the late 1940s. Ruthlessly competitive and intensely secretive, Head had few close friends and many detractors. Her longtime friend, protégé, and confidant David Chierichetti offers a privileged glimpse into the personality behind the famously impenetrable "schoolmarm" façade and a comprehensive account of her creative process. With more than 150 images –– including family snapshots, sketches, and studio portraits of the stars and roles she helped to create, Edith Head is a fresh and vital portrait of the designer, as well as of the era she epitomizes.

Genres: Biography, Fashion, Nonfiction, History, Biography Memoir, Historical, Media Tie In

251 pages, Hardcover

First published March 4, 2003

Reviews

[Kate · Rating 2 out of 5]

What I learned most from this book is that when you note the costume design credit in a classic film, you never really know how much or how little of the design was actually done by the credited individual, and how many un-named individuals may have contributed. Names like Edit Head and Orry-Kelly once made me smile with recognition-- now they just make me think confusedly about drawings that were assigned to assistants, then traced over by the "designer." Series of costumes provided by uncredited designers or purchased (again, not credited) or simply pulled from studio collections. Credits that were posted after studio power struggles.
This bio informs us that Ms. Head was a dedicated worker and-- for women's streetwear in particular-- a fine stylist. As a friend, she was sometimes friendly, sometimes less so. Perhaps her most impressive achievements were her understanding of actresses' physiques and of ways to disguise perceived flaws through color, texture, and design. (I'll never look at a Bette Davis film again without checking the bodice of whatever Davis is wearing!)

[N.N. Heaven · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am a huge fan of Edith Head and when I got a chance to read this biography, I jumped at it. Edith Head is one of the greatest costume designers in the history of Hollywood. This book takes us, the reader, behind the curtain and gives us a glimpse inside the mind of Head. I really enjoyed it and highly recommend, especially if you love fashion!

My Rating: 5+ stars

[etherealfire · Rating 4 out of 5]

Library hardcover

[Lara Selavka · Rating 4 out of 5]

Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood's Celebrated Costume Designer, is a fantastic look at one of those legendary Hollywood names you may have heard before, but don't know too much about. I stumble across this book at The Last Bookstore in downtown LA after doing a studio tour at Paramount. I knew of Edith Head, especially from the character she partially inspired in Pixar's The Incredibles (Edna Mode, of course, darling :)

She was with Paramount's costume department from 1924 to 1967, when she went to work for Universal. The woman had no experience in art, design, and or costume design. She fudged her way into her job, and then became one of, if not the most, iconic non-acting/directing figures in the golden age of movies. She was a controversial character, and confusing to even her most loyal friends.

She worked with some of the greatest actresses to grace the silver screen: Ginger Rogers, Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck, Shirley MacLaine, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor, to name a few. She was also the costume designer Hitchcock in several of his films (To Catch a Thief, Rear Window, Vertigo). And this books follow her entire path through Hollywood: from her little-known beginnings and first/disastrous marriage, to her ambitious and somewhat aggressive climb to the top, to her eventual passing.

But what I loved most was that the biographer (a costume designer himself) doesn't hold back. He tells the good, the bad, and the ugly of Edith's life. She was a complex, conniving, creative woman, and I absolutely loved reading about her. So if you're trying to find something to read, I recommend this book.

It's only negative might be for those not familiar with classic/old films and Hollywood celebs. The biographer name-drops left and right with actors, actresses, directors, producers, set and costume designers, etc. I'm a bit of an old movie buff, but I struggled somewhat and had to do a little leg work in looking some of these up.

[Liz · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was really excited when I picked up this book at the library. I've had a thing for Edith Head for a long time, so I was looking forward to finding out more about her.

Reading it was a mixed experience. There were parts that were fascinating - the intrigue and machinations behind the scenes were great fun to read about. At the same time, a better editor (or perhaps just a final edit?) is needed - there are 5 or 6 passages that are used almost verbatim several times, in separate places in the book. Also, the flow of the book is a little scattered. At times, it seemed to be almost more like a string of stream of consciousness vignettes than a coherent story. I frequently found myself having to go back several paragraphs or pages to figure out who a particular person was. The nature of the book is such that many of the names were unfamiliar to me - not being a Old Hollywood geek, I don't know the names of all of the designers/assistants/minor starlets right off hand. That being said, I completely understand that it's not a book guaranteed to appeal to everyone - so the intended audience might be much more familiar with these people than I am.

There was a nice set of color picture inserts, along with some sketches of particular outfits interspersed throughout the book. It would have been nice to have a lot more of these - but there well might have been copyright/legal issues with that.

Overall, pretty solid. I'm considering getting Edith's own book, The Dress Doctor, as it was referenced in this book. Apparently you're to read it with a grain of salt, as a bunch of stuff was made up.

[Valerie · Rating 2 out of 5]

For a biography about a costume designer, there were not nearly enough pictures and sketches of Edith Head's work to make this a valuable biography. Although I enjoy classic movies, I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of all of the outfits within them, so more visuals would have really added to my enjoyment of the book.

The task of a biographer is difficult when choosing a structure- a plain linear chronology can be boring, while jumping around in time can lose the reader. I felt that this author did too much jumping around without clearly tying the reasons for the jumping around together, making the book sometimes difficult to follow.

Also, a good chunk of the book was about the author's relationship to Edith Head- I wasn't planning on reading a biography about the author, so that was disappointing.

With that said, Edith Head is a fascinating woman living in an interesting time in the history of movies and I was glad to get to know her a little through this book.

[Beezus · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author purports to be a "friend" of Edith Head's, yet he assasinates her character. He states that Ms. Head put her name on other designer's work, yet it was common practice by all costume department heads at the movie studios to take credit (literally on the movie credits) for movies that fell in their jurisdiction. Ms. Head is no more guilty than any other department head of a major movie studio. That was the system that existed. The author comes across as either not having liked Ms. Head very much; or, shamefully to their friendship, was and still is, green with envy.

I did give the book three stars for the biographical background it provided and the pictures of many of stars wearing the dresses Ms. Head designed for their movie roles.

[Sydney · Rating 2 out of 5]

Edith Head was a very complicated woman, and the author does show this. He doesn't dodge the controversy around her behavior, but one gets the distinct impression that he's dodging something. There also aren't enough illustrations by half. If one wants an overview of EH, I suspect this is as good a place as any to start. It will, however, leave you with a certain sadness about how competitive EH was even when it was unnecessary. Makes one appreciate those who can bring new people into their own field, whatever that may be.

[Lee Anne · Rating 3 out of 5]

There isn't enough personal information for this to be considered a true biography, and it isn't comprehensive enough to be a career retrospective. Instead, this is just a breezy overview of Edith Head's life and work, written by a man who knew her in her later years. It was fun to read about the figure flaws of the famous--Bette Davis had a thick neck! Barbara Stanwyck had a short waist!--but you never get to know much below the surface. Great pictures, too, but I wanted more!

[g]

I'm throwing in the towel. I admire Edith Head's work but so much that I feel compelled to read about her backstory. Granted, I didn't get far enough into the book to speak to its merits but what I read in the first 50 odd pages was very gossipy. I'm not familiar enough with the stars of those days--and there is a lot of name-dropping--but this would definitely be suitable for someone more familiar with the 1940s, 1950s film industry.

[Zelda · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was hoping this book would focus more specifically on Edith's design concepts for her movies. It didn't. It was a much more broad full life book, but it really didn't go into her design process at all. And it was frustrating that the dresses he did give some detail to were not the ones pictured in the book.

[Luann Ritsema · Rating 1 out of 5]

This should have been a lot of fun -- but it was awful really. I read it for a book chat at Readerville, which I recall because I'm pretty sure Karen T and I were in agreement -- and may have been the only two to stick it out and read it.

There was so much potential for great, nasty gossip -- but it was so poorly written and so fawning -- why fawn, she's dead already!

[Sophie · Rating 3 out of 5]

Written by a personal friend and protege of Edith Head, the book assumes you are familiar with a lot of old Hollywood stars (which I'm not) and tends to be a little confusing. Not the best writing, but Chierichetti seems to be quite truthful about Edith's foibles and weak spots, while giving her credit where it is due.

[Harmony · Rating 3 out of 5]

A wonderful book for anyone who enjoys the old days of Hollywood's glitz and glamour. Edith was truly an amazing woman of invention and succeeded in making her mark in a field that was dominated by men. Not too bad for a women who learned how to draw on the job.

[Sherry · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting woman. I wouldn't want to get in her way, but boy did she live! And that woman knew the meaning of a full work week. I got tired just reading about her long hours. But with her job it sounded as if there was never a dull moment. Fascinating!

[Blythe Christopher · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked this book as I have read Edith Head's "The Dress Doctor" much earlier in my reading career. One of the best anecdotes involves Edith countermanding to her biographer about what she had printed in her earlier book- "Well, you know I lied in that book!". Awesome. Before her time.

[Esther · Rating 2 out of 5]

I really didn't care for the way this book was written. He jumped around A LOT, making it sometimes hard to follow.

I'm not really familiar with older movies and actresses. It would have helped to know more of what he was talking about =)

[Tove · Rating 2 out of 5]

As one of my favorite costumers, I was disappointed with this, which was not terribly substantive.

[Flowerdreaming]

What an amazing woman. To make such a living and such a life with her skills.

[Carol · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love old movies so this was fun to read. It was interesting to read about the moviemaking buiness.

[Abigail · Rating 4 out of 5]

Such a great bio. Love the sketches included by Edith, she was so talented!

[Karen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great overview of Hollywood in the early days. Includes many pictures of the amazing leading lady gowns. A quick read, fun.

[Victoria Weinstein · Rating 3 out of 5]

super dishy but not enough about the designs

[Dianne · Rating 5 out of 5]

Lots of good real info on her, her career, and her relationships.

[Bookish Jen · Rating 4 out of 5]

When you think of Hollywood’s golden age you probably think of the movies, stars, and directors of that glittering era. I know I do. But I also think of Edith Head, costume designer extrodinaire.

Edith Head’s career began in the silent era and ended in the early 1980s.

Some of the movies she worked in include All About Eve, A Place in the Sun, Roman Holiday, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Dead Men Don’t Wear Plaid, and several films by Alfred Hitchcock.

One of the most Oscar nominated people in show business, she won eight of those golden boys.

Head also designed for television productions, often working with Bob Mackie and Nolan Miller. She even designed costumes for the Muppets!

Head had one heck of a career, which deserves one heck of a biography. Is Michael Chierichetti’s book Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood’s Celebrated Costume Designer up to such a daunting task? I should think so considering Chierichetti is a film historian, costumer, and was a confidant of the legendary Head.

After an opening chapter recalling Head’s early life, Chierichetti quickly moves onto Head’s lengthy and impressive career, starting out as a lowly apprenticeship, her commitment to getting costumes just right, her strong work ethic, her talented design staff, and the relationships she had with the stars she fitted with her costumes.

But Chierichetti isn’t shy about revealing low moments in Head’s life and career. He also gossips about some of her unsavory personality quirks.

Head made sure her costume were true to the time period the movies’ reflected. She had a gift for highlighting a star’s figure assets while hiding his or her faults. And like many of the stars she outfitted, Head was often a media sensation.

As a fan of film and fashion, I thought I knew a lot about Head. But my knowledge wouldn’t fill up a thimble. Fortunately Chierichetti’s research and commitment to telling Head’s life story as thoroughly as possible helped me sew up some loose threads. I have to admit I was overwhelmed by the names of film, dates, studios, colleagues, and movie stars named in this book.

Interspersed throughout Edith Head are pictures of her actual sketches, film stills, screen tests, professional and candid photos, and glossies that do a wonderful job illustrating Head’s exemplary career. Chierichetti also divulges some secrets about her creative process.

Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood’s Celebrated Costume Designer sews things up for film lovers and fashionistas alike.

Originally published at The Book Self:
https://thebookselfblog.wordpress.com...

[Kirsten Vega · Rating 4 out of 5]

VERY informative, painstakingly researched. David Chicheretti is an authority on Hollywood costuming 1915-1985, as well as an accomplished costumer who got his start under Edith, a close friend. Read this to learn not just about Edith's workroom but those of all her contemporaries in vivid detail: Irene Sharaff, Adrian, Travis Banton...and many many more. The book is printed with generous photos and fashion sketches for each era. Index provides a complete career-length catalogue of Edith's costume work.

Anyone interested in the ethics and politics of studio systems in pre- and post- Code Era Hollywood will find rich detail and insight here.

A biography of an icon that, refreshingly, does not treat its subject as either an icon or as a failed hero. I greatly enjoyed reading this book.

[Cameron Toney · Rating 2 out of 5]

The work of Edith Head is a subject that interests me greatly, and so I picked up this book, eager to learn more.
This was written by someone who knew Edith, an industry veteran, whose friendship with her colored the book somewhat.
At times gossipy, overly forgiving, highly detailed, a rather vauge, this book didn't really give me what I wanted in terms of a portrait of a complicated woman.
She is forgiven for much, but the story meanders around, and I felt that nothing was as in depth of clear as I wanted.
Her work is still interesting to me, and the woman is clearly more complicated than I previously knew, but I don't think I knew her better for reading this book.

[Gpritchard · Rating 2 out of 5]

Dry, straightforward, readable chronology of Edith Head’s career/life, which appeared to be one and the same. I’m not knowledgeable about Hollywood legends and the author did a great job of keeping information clear but there wasn’t much pizzazz or energy in the telling, very perfunctory. I do know more than I did about the process of costume design and management in the film making business, so for that, it was a useful read.

[Suzanne · Rating 3 out of 5]

Well, the enigmatic Edith Head is alive and well in this interesting but somewhat puzzling biography. The author uses many quotes from people who knew her, and the reports can be somewhat contradictory. So many fellow costumers were quoted that I lost track of who was who and how they felt about Edith.

[Elizabeth · Rating 2 out of 5]

Obviously written by a fan. Many mentions made of Edith being scheming or manipulative and of taking credit for mother's work, but few real examples given and no real reason why.
There were too many anecdotes and facts without telling a story, which made it hard to follow.
Didn't like the book.