Once Upon a Time in Goa
The ship engines throbbed through the night as we chugged down India's west coast to the tune of several guitars with swallows of cashew feni and beer to help the trip pass by. I chatted all night in the moonlight with a whole group of young Goans heading home for the holidays. I was a 22 year-old Peace Corps Volunteer travelling to Goa for the first time. Next morning, slightly worse for the wear, I saw the unbroken line of palms along the shore, I marveled at the old fort as we rounded the point into the Mandovi River, passed Reis Magos church and slowly pulled up at the Panjim dock. I took a gasolina across to Betim the next day. The damp pink ticket was still printed in Portuguese. That was 52 years ago; Goa did not appear on the tourist map of the world. As Marie Santana, the main character of this colorful novel of Goa, arrives home, so did I arrive there, little suspecting that my fate would be forever more linked with that small land below the Ghats.
I should, in the name of transparency, reveal that the author of TIVOLEM is a friend of mine, and I know he would not be offended if I suggested that perhaps he is not an author of the calibre of Turgenev, Hemingway, Mishima, or Pamuk. However, if you want to read a novel about Goa that gives you the flavor of the old life there, before mining, tourism and real estate speculators spread their ugly tentacles over the place, a novel that OK, does not deal with social or political questions, but provides a gentle, often humorous picture of village life back in the 1930s, you could not do better than read this book. The slow pace of the story emulates life back in those days, a life that still may exist away from the tourist-haunted beaches and the commercial bustle of the towns of today. I saw Goa before the merger with India really had time to take effect and reading this picturesque, well-crafted novel brought it all back. I am very glad to have read TIVOLEM and highly recommend it to anyone who has loved Goa or who wants to know what it once might have been. The characters, their emotions and behaviors, all ring true. To tell the truth, I was sorry to reach the end. Alas ! That Goa is no more. Hurrah ! Goa offers much more to her sons and daughters now, but something still was lost. There is nothing wrong with nostalgia, especially if your memories are beautiful. TIVOLEM is a book of memories, a Goan look at Goa, even as it is a touching love story.