Brenda Chamberlain was an Welsh visual artist from near Bangor and was part of the trailblazing tribe of post-war artists who put their art at the centre of their lives. This book is a selection of her memories from the time she spent living on the island of Enlli (Bardsey in English) which lies just off the LLŷn Peninsula on the North West coast of Wales.
I have visited the island and stayed for a few nights. Even now, visitors have to be prepared to pump their own water, do without flushing toilets and survive without electricity. There are some solar lights in the buildings but the light they give is only enough to orientate yourself in the room and not enough to, say, read a book or cook. Enlli brings you up against the reality of the world as it actually is and some simple but brutal facts - like, when the sun goes down it gets dark. Really dark.
My weekend on the island has a huge impact on me, imagine how it was for Brenda Chamberlain who lived there from 1947 t0 1961! Life on the island was intense. The weather could be brutal and unforgiving and when the sea got rough they would not be able to get off the island in order to get supplies from the mainland. The longest that Brenda and Paul, her French partner, were stranded was five weeks - in January! Island politics could be difficult too. There were bullying campaigns against members of the community, infant deaths, shortages of food and supplies, family feuds and parental neglect.
On the other hand it is clear that, in spite of the hardships and challenges, Brenda Chamberlain felt more alive there than at other times of her life. The island is beautiful in Spring and summer and it is full of wildlife, including migratory seabirds, choughs, little owls and a large seal colony.
It is the sea that dominates this book. The author writes about it on almost every page. The way it changes from day to day; how it looks at night when the moon shines; the endless weaving of the tides around the island in complex and dangerous eddies and her realisation that the sea is not just its surface. Island people have to learn to read what the sea is doing under the surface where a whole network of undercurrents weave and join. Misreading the signs can mean your boat could capsize or be hurled onto the rocks.
The book is full of Brenda's drawings that help bring the place to life. Although she was painting while she lived on the island she never mentions her work. This book is all about Enlli, its people, its struggle and the stormy life and lives that it contains.