Iran lies between Iraq and Afghanistan in one of the world's most politically volatile regions. But those in the know recognise this ancient land as the jewel of Central Asia. Its cities are studded with gilded mosques and blue-mosaic shrines built in honour of some of history's greatest leaders; its people are generous and kind to a fault; and its terrain ranges from the ski slopes of Tehran to the sands of the Caspian Sea. Leave your preconceptions on the plane, take a copy of this expanded third edition on tour, and immerse yourself in the unfamiliar - the rewards will be rich.