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John Arnott MacCulloch, DD (1868 - 1950) was a Scottish clergyman.
Author of works including: The Childhood of fiction: a study of folk tales and primitive thought; Comparative Theology; The Misty isle of Skye: its Scenery, its People, its Story.
The copy I read was the fourth edition of 1948, though it was first published in 1905 and overall the prose style matches the earlier date - though it varies throughout the chapters. The opening chapters are basically a tour through the island describing the landscape and scenery for the benefit of tourists. Beginning in the main town of Portree the traveller moves north through Trotternish, then west and south visiting Vaternish, Dunvegan - the home the clan MacLeod, Loch Bracadale, the Cuillins and on to Armadale. The descriptive prose becomes more and more poetic as it goes along:
"The road follows the edge of the cliff, and from it one looks down to the glittering sea, and across it to the long chain of mountains on the mainland. Then at Loch Mealt, which runs up close to the cliff's edge, the road takes a turn inland till it reaches the beautiful blue bay of Staffin and the shattered front of the Quiraing."
and there are occasional tales of folklore and history to add to the interest.
There is a short chapter on the diatomite industry of Skye. It is not really industrial history. The author and a couple of his chums decide to have a picnic in the Trotternish hills and enjoy looking down at the ordinary folk toiling away carrying sacks from a crushing mill to a small quayside where a boat is waiting. Their general attitude seems to be that a spot of hard work is just what the crofters need to combat idleness. This chapter is one of the most redolent of 1905 attitudes.
Mr. MacCulloch then returns to the poetic and discusses the mountains and the moorlands, followed by what he terms "The Pageant of the Seasons", which is mostly the islands flora.
"June follows when the bracken is already two feet high, filling the air with a richly aromatic perfume. Every foot of ground is rich with colour and covered with abundant flowers. Clumps of sea-pink give a touch of colour to the black rocks at the sea's edge. A little higher there is a richer vegetation - vivid blue milkworts, white stitchworts, white garlic flowers - too beautiful by far for their acrid odours. In shadowy glens great masses of honeysuckle cover the rocks and fill the warm air with odorous perfumes. There, in a shady recess, yellow pimpernels hide their tiny flowers modestly from sight, pink vetch and yellow potentilla trail among the grass; rich golden patches of bird's-foot trefoil meet one at every step."
Following that pleasant read the author turns scientific, discussing the geology of Skye in a very no holds barred text-book manner. If you want to know what a bed of Poikilitic strata is I can now tell you: "Torridonian sandstone fragments and quartzite and limestone pebbles in a matrix full of calcareous matter." Next is a chapter on the people of Skye, and the views of a Victorian man of the Church become apparent, particularly when noting the life of the crofter. Poor but happy seems to be his general opinion:
"The life of the crofter has its compensations. A living is secure, if it be but a scanty one, and he has but few wants. Herrings, meal, and tea are easily procured, and if they do not make a banquet of the gods, yet, with an occasional braxy sheep, they satisfy the Skyeman."
The evil of drink is mentioned and the forthright Mrs. MacLeod's temperance society's fight to subdue it and the author takes a close look at religious services and sermons. It, and the following chapter on The Crofting System are the most fascinating sections of the book to read as historical documents of a time long past.
The book closes with folklore, antiquities and "literary associations. The associations are principally those of Ossian, Dr. Johnson and James Boswell, and Sir Walter Scott. A very interesting volume. Old fashioned in its style and opinions, but full of information. If only it had a better map than that provided on the front endpapers.