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Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing
From surfer and writer Stuart Holmes Coleman, Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii.
In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a.
In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a.
288 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 2002
101 people are currently reading
1139 people want to read
About the author
Stuart Holmes Coleman
4 books4 followersStuart Holmes Coleman has had two lifelong passions, writing and surfing. The son of a minister, he was baptized as a surfer in the small waves of Charleston, S.C. Surfing helped him overcome his childhood fears of tidal waves and drowning. While taking a unique course called “Cultures of the Pacific” in school, he began dreaming about living in Hawaii some day. After graduating from the University of South Carolina’s Honors College, Coleman moved to Los Angeles for bigger surf and better career opportunities. In L.A., he worked as an arts editor for an entertainment magazine. Returning to the East Coast in 1991, he studied at American University’s Creative Writing Program and received an MFA degree. In 1993, Coleman finally realized his dream of moving to Hawaii. In the Islands, he soon learned about the legendary Eddie Aikau, the man who rode swells the size of tidal waves and saved hundreds of lives from the deadly surf. Working on EDDIE WOULD GO allowed Coleman to pursue his passions for surfing and writing.
As a writer, Coleman has been published in numerous publications, including The Associated Press, The Washington Post, USA Today, Charleston Magazine, Honolulu Magazine, Hemispheres and Longboard Magazine. His articles on Eddie have appeared in The Honolulu Advertiser, Destinations and Surfer’s Path. Coleman has won a number of writing honors, including U.S.C.’s Waring Award for Creative Writing and the Writer-in-Residence position at St. Albans School. His poems have been published in journals like The Atlanta Review, The Formalist and The Hawaii Review.
http://stuart-coleman.com
As a writer, Coleman has been published in numerous publications, including The Associated Press, The Washington Post, USA Today, Charleston Magazine, Honolulu Magazine, Hemispheres and Longboard Magazine. His articles on Eddie have appeared in The Honolulu Advertiser, Destinations and Surfer’s Path. Coleman has won a number of writing honors, including U.S.C.’s Waring Award for Creative Writing and the Writer-in-Residence position at St. Albans School. His poems have been published in journals like The Atlanta Review, The Formalist and The Hawaii Review.
http://stuart-coleman.com
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 99 reviews
March 24, 2010
I was profoundly moved by the story of this incredible human. Growing up in Hawaii, I had always heard about Eddie and his family, but as a kid it always seemed like he was this mythical creature or something. I remember when the Hokule'a tragedy happened and watching the search effort on the news in the 70's, but I was still too young to really understand the impact that Eddie had made during his short life.
Reading this book reawakened so many memories for me. Sitting on the beach at Waimea right near the lifeguard stand, I wonder how many times Eddie walked by me. The race relations, surf politics, localism, and aloha...it's all in here.
Eddie Aikau was a real-life hero, who saved hundreds of lives as the first lifeguard at one of Hawaii's most dangerous beaches, and touched everyone he met with his aloha spirit.
Eddie DID go. Eddie went. And the world is a better place because of it.
Reading this book reawakened so many memories for me. Sitting on the beach at Waimea right near the lifeguard stand, I wonder how many times Eddie walked by me. The race relations, surf politics, localism, and aloha...it's all in here.
Eddie Aikau was a real-life hero, who saved hundreds of lives as the first lifeguard at one of Hawaii's most dangerous beaches, and touched everyone he met with his aloha spirit.
Eddie DID go. Eddie went. And the world is a better place because of it.
March 20, 2019
eddie had a huge heart and love for the ocean im so happy his legacy lives on
September 6, 2012
I was not so sure is I would like this book when I first started reading it. Stories of those who die young often get distorted. Their deeds become inflated, their shortcomings forgotten, and they become larger than life heroic figures. With as much as Eddie Aikau is loved and respected, I expect this story to go down this same road. I was very happy to be wrong.
The story is as much about the Aikau family as it is about their best known son. We learn about their personal struggles, their faith, their financial struggles, and the day-to-day tasks that are about living in this world. We learn about their simple life of family, hard work, and hard play in the ocean. All of this is told with the backdrop of the story of Hawaii and it's people.
I was most impressed with the telling of the loss of the Hokuleʻa and of Eddie's passing. No punches were pulled when it came to discussing the details, poor decisions, accountability of the captain and crew, and the impact of Eddie's passing had on all those involved. This rounded out the names and personalities. I came away to a real sense of sympathy, compassion, and admiration for so many of the individuals I met in this book.
Really well done and I give it a very rare and high rating.
The story is as much about the Aikau family as it is about their best known son. We learn about their personal struggles, their faith, their financial struggles, and the day-to-day tasks that are about living in this world. We learn about their simple life of family, hard work, and hard play in the ocean. All of this is told with the backdrop of the story of Hawaii and it's people.
I was most impressed with the telling of the loss of the Hokuleʻa and of Eddie's passing. No punches were pulled when it came to discussing the details, poor decisions, accountability of the captain and crew, and the impact of Eddie's passing had on all those involved. This rounded out the names and personalities. I came away to a real sense of sympathy, compassion, and admiration for so many of the individuals I met in this book.
Really well done and I give it a very rare and high rating.
February 3, 2016
Anyone who's stood on the shore of Waimea Bay on Oahu's North Shore, mesmerized by the huge waves whose wake engulfs the beach in the winter, will relate to the exploits of renowned surfer and lifeguard Eddie Aikau who made this bay his "office." Eddie died tragically young, paddling his surfboard in rough seas in search of help for fellow crew members when their outrigger canoe capsized. This book is about more than Eddie's life. It's about Hawaiian history and the passing of a way of life, when native Hawaiians saw their surfing culture absorbed and commercialized by haole surfers from the US, Australia and South Africa. Coleman pulls no punches when telling the story of Eddie and his rambunctious family who were respected and loved throughout the Island despite and sometimes because of the alcohol-fueled parties they threw that went on for days. Throughout Eddie's highs and lows—a disintegrating marriage, tragic family deaths, struggles with alcohol—Eddie saved lives, paddling into the massive surf time and time again to pluck unwitting surfers and swimmers from certain death and bring them safely to shore. Any visitor to Hawaii who's wondered what's behind the slogan on T-shirts for sale proclaiming "Eddie Would Go" will enjoy this book.
November 8, 2013
Good book on how a surfing legend is remembered as a competition in his honor is held but will the conditions be right for a good surfing completion. The question is who will win? Will the compition be able to happen? It has not happened in 6 years, and the conditions just might be right for it to happen again. While others are having fun and partying the competetors are practicing till they cant anymore.
August 26, 2015
The story of an amazing individual and his tragic death. After my trip to Hawaii Aikau became someone who absolutely fascinated me and after finishing this book, despite me being a "haole" (outsider), he became a hero to me. Touching story of family, ideals, and the aloha spirit.
August 5, 2009
A beautiful profile of a very brave man who changed surfing.
June 15, 2014
Terrible. The prose made my skin crawl. An appalling tribute to a legend.
May 12, 2010
“Fearing for the fate of his crew, Capitan Lyman consulted with his officers. After much heated debate, they all reluctantly agreed: Eddie should go.” (pg. 221)
This was an intriguing couple sentences that I found in the book, Eddie Would Go that shows the major theme of the book, that Eddie Aikau would do go and do anything to help his fellow crew mates and friends even if it meant risking his life. After the Portuguese boat the Hokele’a flipped over in a fifteen foot swell and thirty-five mph winds the crew and captain were sitting ducks. Eddie volunteered to paddle to the closest Hawaiian Island Lana’i the captain told him no. The second time Eddie asked the captain, him and his officers talked and agreed to let Eddie paddle his 12’ long board to Lana’i which was over twenty miles away. The crew gave Eddie a lifejacket, a strobe light and a bagful of sugar cubes. Eddie took his lifejacket off after paddling fifteen feet away from the boat. This shows that Eddie was confident and fearless of the big waves.
This story, Eddie Would Go starts off with a brief history of how Hawaii came to be. Hawaii caught up to the rest of the world when Captain Cook discovered the islands of Hawaii. Looking at the native people of Hawaii he realizes that they may have originated from Tahiti because of the native’s dark skin and big stature. He also notices that the natives practically live in the ocean. The natives use the ocean for food, transportation and for play. Cook started to trade with the natives and Cook eventually held the Big Island chief for ransom. This caused the natives to riot and they eventually killed Captain Cook. Because of all the trade that was happening Kamehameha I united the islands of Hawaii with the help of guns and other Western technologies.
Over the next couple of decades the haole or “white man” was starting to overrun Hawaii with new technologies, religions, illnesses and businessmen which included merchants, whalers and planters. After many tries to reunite the islands under native control the United States was granted Hawaii by Queen Lili’uokalani. Because of the strategic position Hawaii had in the Pacific, the United States naval fleet was positioned at Pearl Harbor. Soon after on December 7, 1941 the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor.
After the end of WWII Eddie Aikau was born on the island of Maui, about six years later the Aikau clan consisted of Sol (father), Henrietta (mother), Myra (daughter) and Fredrick, Eddie, Gerald, Sol jr. and Clyde (sons). A happy Hawaiian family, they would go and play at the beach, listen to mom sing with playing her ukulele. Eddie was established as the leader of the boys, he would always push himself to the best of his ability and he was also the smallest of all his brothers. Soon after Hawaii became the 50th state Sol decided they should move to Oahu. They moved and settled down next to a Chinese graveyard. The Aikau family suffered financial problems because of Hawaii being a state of the United States. The boys in the family would dig and bury people in graves for extra money.
Although surfing in the United States may seem like a new sport, in Hawaii they have been surfing since the rule of King Kamehameha I. Many people have traveled to the islands and tried surfing. Mark Twain once traveled to the islands and tried surfing and he said “None but the natives ever master the art of surf-bathing (surfing) thoroughly.” From this quote I can say that he failed at surfing.
When surfing became popular to the visitors of Hawaii some of them brought surfing back to the mainland, in California. In the early 20th century Hawaiian legend Duke Kahanamoku started to promote surfing to the rest of the world. It was once said that Duke surfed a wave that was a mile long at the south shore. Duke was the hero to young kids like Eddie and his brothers. Duke and his brothers made Waikiki famous by entertaining guests and teaching them how to surf. Some of these people were rich and famous. Eddie and his brothers looked up to Duke.
Other than surfing the Aikau brothers gained a passion for racing in Outrigger Canoes. The canoes were a part of Polynesian culture and the Aikau brothers made a name for themselves in Waikiki after winning a couple races. The Aikau brothers eventually taught mainlanders how to surf and how to live as Hawaiians.
Eddie began to be hooked on surfing. After watching a film on big wave surfing at the North Shore, Eddie wanted to surf the biggest waves ever ridden. Eddie began to cut class for surfing. Soon after Eddie dropped out of school at the age of 16 and began to work for the Dole Cannery. After Eddie saved up enough money he bought himself a surfboard. With this board he would ride the biggest waves at Waimea Bay where he became famous to the surfing world.
After Eddie bought his board, Pops arranged Eddie to get rides to the North Shore so he could become a better surfer. From then on Eddie and the local surfers would surf until dinner then they would catch dinner and have parties. The Aikau brothers became friends with the big wave surfers and they told tales of riding the biggest waves, the brothers were fascinated. When Eddie was 21 years old he got his chance to prove himself in 30-50 foot surf at Waimea Bay, and he did.
The Duke was Eddie’s hero. Duke was the greatest Hawaiian swimmer he even won three gold medals and set some world records. The Duke was featured in movies while he lived in California. One time Duke traveled to Australia where he shaped his own board and surfed at the beach breaks. Surfing is now one of the most popular sports in Australia thanks to Duke. When Duke moved back to the islands he was appointed to be the Sheriff of Honolulu. Duke created his own surf contest. Eddie was determined to win it if he was ever invited to compete. Eddie was invited to the 3rd Duke Surf contest. Although he didn’t win Eddie still got a trophy from the Duke. Eddie always dreamed of winning the Duke contest while Duke was still alive but the Duke died at the age of 77. Duke is known as Hawaii’s greatest waterman because of his skills in swimming, lifesaving and surfing.
On the North Shore there became a growing popularity for the waves and the beaches. It became an issue of safety so; Eddie and his friend Butch Van Artsdalen agreed to become the lifeguards of the North Shore. They had to watch over the seven mile strip that made up the North Shore. Eddie made many saves while being a lifeguard and it is even said that he would swim half a mile out from the beach to save somebody. Over the next couple of years there were more lifeguards that were stationed at the North Shore. Three years after he joined as a lifeguard he was one of the top people in charge of the North Shore. He got the chance to recruit new lifeguards. Eddie was so good at lifeguarding nobody ever drowned while he was on duty.
Eddie met a man named Bill Pierce who was one of the first black surfers on the islands who was originally from Northern California. Bill was surfing at Lanaikea and he almost drowned but Eddie was there and that’s how they met. Eddie taught Bill how to surf the different spots on the island and the Aikau family took in Bill as an “adoptive son” like they do many surfers who come to surf on the North Shore. Many people on the North Shore were racist towards blacks or popolos and even though Eddie was a native Hawaiian he had dark skin so he was considered a black. Eddie and Bill both had similarities which explained why they became friends. Bill was accepted in the Aikau home.
When Eddie’s brother Gerald came home from the Vietnam War the North Shore was an entirely different place. It was the time when surfers began to do drugs. Many surfers on the North Shore stopped surfing to become addicts and dealers. Eddie’s brother, Sol became a dealer and was sent to prison in California. Eddie and his brothers still drank alcohol but they never became drug addicts unlike their friends.
Eddie was looking for a wife to settle down with. One day one of Eddie’s friends asked him if he wanted to greet two visiting mainland girls as they arrived in Hawaii. One of the girls became Eddie’s wife her name was Linda Crosswhite who was from Seattle. Eddie and Clyde showed the two girls the Hawaiian landmarks and invited them to a luau. Even though Eddie was married to Linda he still surfed in the pro circuit and lifeguarded on the North Shore.
Eddie still strived for winning a Duke contest. He entered with his brother Clyde and they both surfed their very best but Clyde won the contest because he had more modern day style. Even though Eddie came in 6th place he was happy that a native Hawaiian who was also his brother, Clyde won the Duke contest. Later that year Clyde graduated from the University of Hawaii. There was a big luau after Clyde graduated and Gerald who was discharged from Vietnam was there. Gerald was a changed man but not in a good way. He was quiet and angry all the time. While in Vietnam he killed a Vietnamese guy and it destroyed Gerald on the inside. Later when the party died out all the people left in different cars. Gerald and another guy were driving on the other side of the island than everybody else and they crashed into a telephone pole. Gerald and the other guy were both killed.
Eddie’s friends all stopped surfing big waves because of their fear of drowning. One day at Waimea one of Eddie’s friends almost died, he later gave up surfing. Another big wave surfer gave up surfing after wiping out at Sunset. Even though all these surfers gave up big wave surfing Eddie continued to surf the monsters of the deep even though he could be killed.
The time of summer on the North Shore was a time of partying and chasing girls for Eddie and Clyde. Clyde got the girls and Eddie caught the fish and started cooking. One time Clyde went with Eddie to go and catch fish. They were getting in deeper water and they came face to face with a tiger shark. The shark swam up to Eddie and looked straight into his eyes. The shark then turned around and Clyde started to freak out.
One of Eddie’s closest friend, Jose Angel, died pushing the limits of diving. Combined with the death of Gerald and Jose, Eddie became depressed and started to drink and party more than he ever did. This led to the downfall of the marriage between Eddie and Linda. Eddie began to gain a passion for how his ancestors got to the islands. His answer was around the corner with the Hokule’a. A replica of the ship that took Hawaiians to Hawaii generations ago, Eddie watched in awe as the ship sailed across the water. He immediately knew he wanted to be on the next voyage to Tahiti.
Eddie was known as the king of Waimea Bay, he was still in search for winning a Duke contest. That day came around in 1977 when Eddie was more than prepared with new moves that were becoming essential to winning a contest in the 70’s. After ten years of searching he finally won a Duke contest. He didn’t win the contest for himself he says he won it for all the Hawaiians and his brother Gerald who died. Through all this Eddie began to drift away from his wife, Linda so they decided it was over. Eddie was in search for something new and exciting, Hokele’a.
Eddie was one of the 12 who were chosen to sail on the Hokele’a. When he was accepted Eddie and Linda were divorced. The day before the voyage Pops had a little celebration for the people who were going to sail with Eddie. Eddie’s sister Myra had a nightmare the nightmare before the departure of the Hokele’a. The nightmare consisted of the Hokele’a capsizing and Eddie being lost at sea. On the day of departure there was a celebration with a Hawaiian celebration. Eddie carried a necklace of locks from his niece and nephews. The winds were gusting throughout the night before and the waves were 8-10 feet. The captain and navigator made the decision to go anyway. While sailing out of the Hawaiian Islands the captain saw that there were several inches of water in the hull, the crew fixed the problem and was on their way.
Soon after the repair the captain ordered all hands on deck because he was worried that the Hokele’a would capsize. A couple minutes later a rogue wave hit the Hokele’a which was a sitting duck because of flooding. The wave knocked all the crew members off the boat and caused the boat to flip over. Nobody drowned because they all had life jackets on. Eddie volunteered to paddle on his surfboard that he brought with him to the island of Lana’i, which was a couple miles away. After spending a couple hours in the water the captain allowed Eddie to paddle to the island, fearing the fate of the rest of the crew. Eddie was given a bag of sugar cubes for energy, a knife, a whistle and a strobe light. He wore a life jacket around his waist. Before he departed the crew said a prayer and Eddie was on his way. The crew was chanting “Go, Eddie, Go!” About 50 feet from the boat Eddie took off his life jacket.
The crew was stranded around the boat for another day. They spotted a plane and a boat but the crew was unnoticeable. Finally a plane that carried Japanese tourists spotted the crew and then about an hour later a plane came to rescue the crew. The captain told the rescue crew about Eddie and they started a search.
The search lasted several days but Eddie was nowhere to be found. One time when Clyde was in a helicopter Eddie’s board was spotted but there was no Eddie. Eddie always wanted his ashes to be scattered around Waimea Bay but since there was no body, volcanic rock became a substitute for ashes because volcanic rock was a part of Eddie.
A couple years later the Hokele’a sailed to Hawaii with a dedication tablet of Eddie’s name. Eddie’s brother Clyde decided he wanted to complete Eddie’s journey so he flew to Tahiti and sailed all the way back to Hawaii. Eddie was a hero of Hawaii; he sacrificed himself for his crew, a true hero. He will never be forgotten.
After Eddie’s death the first Eddie Aikau Quiksilver contest was held at Waimea Bay. Clyde and Eddie’s friends were the top competitors of this contest. While paddling out Clyde spotted two turtles that resembled Eddie and Jose. Clyde followed the turtles way outside then a monster set wave came through and Clyde caught it and rode it into the inside. He followed the turtles again and caught another monster wave. Clyde won the contest and dedicated his victory to his brother Eddie. Clyde still believes that the turtles were the guiding spirits of Eddie and Jose.
Some of the main characters in this book are Eddie Aikau who is a Hawaiian who risks his life for others. He was a lifeguard and a big wave surfer. He is a hero to modern day Hawaiians because of his dedication to helping other people and his aloha spirit.
Another character that I found important to this story is Eddie’s hero, Duke Kahanamoku. Duke was a true Hawaiian legend. He won Olympic medals, acted in movies and most of all he promoted surfing to Australia and mainland United States. He was the one who inspired Eddie to surf. If Duke wasn’t around then Eddie might have not turned into a waterman.
One conflict that I found while reading this book is Eddie’s passion for the ocean and Eddie’s marriage. Before Eddie met his wife he has a passion for the ocean he loved it more than anything. After he got married he became a pro surfer and he traveled a lot, putting a strain on their marriage. Eddie was always putting himself at risk to save others which might have made his wife become worried about him all the time. He also was a big wave surfer and there was always a chance that he could die. The real breaker in their marriage was when he decided the Hokele’a was more important than their marriage, which caused a divorce.
The part that I enjoyed reading the most in this book is how Hawaiians came to be. From arriving at the Hawaiian Islands to bombing at Pearl Harbor to being the 50th state. I personally find that fascinating. I also enjoyed the part when the author was talking about how Eddie rode the waves it made me feel like I was inside the tube.
I would recommend this book to anyone who wants to learn about the history of Hawaii and its greatest hero’s. I would also recommend this book to anyone who doesn’t know a whole lot about Eddie Aikau. This book shows a lot about the progression of surfing from Hawaii to Australia, from long boards to shorter boards.
This was an intriguing couple sentences that I found in the book, Eddie Would Go that shows the major theme of the book, that Eddie Aikau would do go and do anything to help his fellow crew mates and friends even if it meant risking his life. After the Portuguese boat the Hokele’a flipped over in a fifteen foot swell and thirty-five mph winds the crew and captain were sitting ducks. Eddie volunteered to paddle to the closest Hawaiian Island Lana’i the captain told him no. The second time Eddie asked the captain, him and his officers talked and agreed to let Eddie paddle his 12’ long board to Lana’i which was over twenty miles away. The crew gave Eddie a lifejacket, a strobe light and a bagful of sugar cubes. Eddie took his lifejacket off after paddling fifteen feet away from the boat. This shows that Eddie was confident and fearless of the big waves.
This story, Eddie Would Go starts off with a brief history of how Hawaii came to be. Hawaii caught up to the rest of the world when Captain Cook discovered the islands of Hawaii. Looking at the native people of Hawaii he realizes that they may have originated from Tahiti because of the native’s dark skin and big stature. He also notices that the natives practically live in the ocean. The natives use the ocean for food, transportation and for play. Cook started to trade with the natives and Cook eventually held the Big Island chief for ransom. This caused the natives to riot and they eventually killed Captain Cook. Because of all the trade that was happening Kamehameha I united the islands of Hawaii with the help of guns and other Western technologies.
Over the next couple of decades the haole or “white man” was starting to overrun Hawaii with new technologies, religions, illnesses and businessmen which included merchants, whalers and planters. After many tries to reunite the islands under native control the United States was granted Hawaii by Queen Lili’uokalani. Because of the strategic position Hawaii had in the Pacific, the United States naval fleet was positioned at Pearl Harbor. Soon after on December 7, 1941 the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor.
After the end of WWII Eddie Aikau was born on the island of Maui, about six years later the Aikau clan consisted of Sol (father), Henrietta (mother), Myra (daughter) and Fredrick, Eddie, Gerald, Sol jr. and Clyde (sons). A happy Hawaiian family, they would go and play at the beach, listen to mom sing with playing her ukulele. Eddie was established as the leader of the boys, he would always push himself to the best of his ability and he was also the smallest of all his brothers. Soon after Hawaii became the 50th state Sol decided they should move to Oahu. They moved and settled down next to a Chinese graveyard. The Aikau family suffered financial problems because of Hawaii being a state of the United States. The boys in the family would dig and bury people in graves for extra money.
Although surfing in the United States may seem like a new sport, in Hawaii they have been surfing since the rule of King Kamehameha I. Many people have traveled to the islands and tried surfing. Mark Twain once traveled to the islands and tried surfing and he said “None but the natives ever master the art of surf-bathing (surfing) thoroughly.” From this quote I can say that he failed at surfing.
When surfing became popular to the visitors of Hawaii some of them brought surfing back to the mainland, in California. In the early 20th century Hawaiian legend Duke Kahanamoku started to promote surfing to the rest of the world. It was once said that Duke surfed a wave that was a mile long at the south shore. Duke was the hero to young kids like Eddie and his brothers. Duke and his brothers made Waikiki famous by entertaining guests and teaching them how to surf. Some of these people were rich and famous. Eddie and his brothers looked up to Duke.
Other than surfing the Aikau brothers gained a passion for racing in Outrigger Canoes. The canoes were a part of Polynesian culture and the Aikau brothers made a name for themselves in Waikiki after winning a couple races. The Aikau brothers eventually taught mainlanders how to surf and how to live as Hawaiians.
Eddie began to be hooked on surfing. After watching a film on big wave surfing at the North Shore, Eddie wanted to surf the biggest waves ever ridden. Eddie began to cut class for surfing. Soon after Eddie dropped out of school at the age of 16 and began to work for the Dole Cannery. After Eddie saved up enough money he bought himself a surfboard. With this board he would ride the biggest waves at Waimea Bay where he became famous to the surfing world.
After Eddie bought his board, Pops arranged Eddie to get rides to the North Shore so he could become a better surfer. From then on Eddie and the local surfers would surf until dinner then they would catch dinner and have parties. The Aikau brothers became friends with the big wave surfers and they told tales of riding the biggest waves, the brothers were fascinated. When Eddie was 21 years old he got his chance to prove himself in 30-50 foot surf at Waimea Bay, and he did.
The Duke was Eddie’s hero. Duke was the greatest Hawaiian swimmer he even won three gold medals and set some world records. The Duke was featured in movies while he lived in California. One time Duke traveled to Australia where he shaped his own board and surfed at the beach breaks. Surfing is now one of the most popular sports in Australia thanks to Duke. When Duke moved back to the islands he was appointed to be the Sheriff of Honolulu. Duke created his own surf contest. Eddie was determined to win it if he was ever invited to compete. Eddie was invited to the 3rd Duke Surf contest. Although he didn’t win Eddie still got a trophy from the Duke. Eddie always dreamed of winning the Duke contest while Duke was still alive but the Duke died at the age of 77. Duke is known as Hawaii’s greatest waterman because of his skills in swimming, lifesaving and surfing.
On the North Shore there became a growing popularity for the waves and the beaches. It became an issue of safety so; Eddie and his friend Butch Van Artsdalen agreed to become the lifeguards of the North Shore. They had to watch over the seven mile strip that made up the North Shore. Eddie made many saves while being a lifeguard and it is even said that he would swim half a mile out from the beach to save somebody. Over the next couple of years there were more lifeguards that were stationed at the North Shore. Three years after he joined as a lifeguard he was one of the top people in charge of the North Shore. He got the chance to recruit new lifeguards. Eddie was so good at lifeguarding nobody ever drowned while he was on duty.
Eddie met a man named Bill Pierce who was one of the first black surfers on the islands who was originally from Northern California. Bill was surfing at Lanaikea and he almost drowned but Eddie was there and that’s how they met. Eddie taught Bill how to surf the different spots on the island and the Aikau family took in Bill as an “adoptive son” like they do many surfers who come to surf on the North Shore. Many people on the North Shore were racist towards blacks or popolos and even though Eddie was a native Hawaiian he had dark skin so he was considered a black. Eddie and Bill both had similarities which explained why they became friends. Bill was accepted in the Aikau home.
When Eddie’s brother Gerald came home from the Vietnam War the North Shore was an entirely different place. It was the time when surfers began to do drugs. Many surfers on the North Shore stopped surfing to become addicts and dealers. Eddie’s brother, Sol became a dealer and was sent to prison in California. Eddie and his brothers still drank alcohol but they never became drug addicts unlike their friends.
Eddie was looking for a wife to settle down with. One day one of Eddie’s friends asked him if he wanted to greet two visiting mainland girls as they arrived in Hawaii. One of the girls became Eddie’s wife her name was Linda Crosswhite who was from Seattle. Eddie and Clyde showed the two girls the Hawaiian landmarks and invited them to a luau. Even though Eddie was married to Linda he still surfed in the pro circuit and lifeguarded on the North Shore.
Eddie still strived for winning a Duke contest. He entered with his brother Clyde and they both surfed their very best but Clyde won the contest because he had more modern day style. Even though Eddie came in 6th place he was happy that a native Hawaiian who was also his brother, Clyde won the Duke contest. Later that year Clyde graduated from the University of Hawaii. There was a big luau after Clyde graduated and Gerald who was discharged from Vietnam was there. Gerald was a changed man but not in a good way. He was quiet and angry all the time. While in Vietnam he killed a Vietnamese guy and it destroyed Gerald on the inside. Later when the party died out all the people left in different cars. Gerald and another guy were driving on the other side of the island than everybody else and they crashed into a telephone pole. Gerald and the other guy were both killed.
Eddie’s friends all stopped surfing big waves because of their fear of drowning. One day at Waimea one of Eddie’s friends almost died, he later gave up surfing. Another big wave surfer gave up surfing after wiping out at Sunset. Even though all these surfers gave up big wave surfing Eddie continued to surf the monsters of the deep even though he could be killed.
The time of summer on the North Shore was a time of partying and chasing girls for Eddie and Clyde. Clyde got the girls and Eddie caught the fish and started cooking. One time Clyde went with Eddie to go and catch fish. They were getting in deeper water and they came face to face with a tiger shark. The shark swam up to Eddie and looked straight into his eyes. The shark then turned around and Clyde started to freak out.
One of Eddie’s closest friend, Jose Angel, died pushing the limits of diving. Combined with the death of Gerald and Jose, Eddie became depressed and started to drink and party more than he ever did. This led to the downfall of the marriage between Eddie and Linda. Eddie began to gain a passion for how his ancestors got to the islands. His answer was around the corner with the Hokule’a. A replica of the ship that took Hawaiians to Hawaii generations ago, Eddie watched in awe as the ship sailed across the water. He immediately knew he wanted to be on the next voyage to Tahiti.
Eddie was known as the king of Waimea Bay, he was still in search for winning a Duke contest. That day came around in 1977 when Eddie was more than prepared with new moves that were becoming essential to winning a contest in the 70’s. After ten years of searching he finally won a Duke contest. He didn’t win the contest for himself he says he won it for all the Hawaiians and his brother Gerald who died. Through all this Eddie began to drift away from his wife, Linda so they decided it was over. Eddie was in search for something new and exciting, Hokele’a.
Eddie was one of the 12 who were chosen to sail on the Hokele’a. When he was accepted Eddie and Linda were divorced. The day before the voyage Pops had a little celebration for the people who were going to sail with Eddie. Eddie’s sister Myra had a nightmare the nightmare before the departure of the Hokele’a. The nightmare consisted of the Hokele’a capsizing and Eddie being lost at sea. On the day of departure there was a celebration with a Hawaiian celebration. Eddie carried a necklace of locks from his niece and nephews. The winds were gusting throughout the night before and the waves were 8-10 feet. The captain and navigator made the decision to go anyway. While sailing out of the Hawaiian Islands the captain saw that there were several inches of water in the hull, the crew fixed the problem and was on their way.
Soon after the repair the captain ordered all hands on deck because he was worried that the Hokele’a would capsize. A couple minutes later a rogue wave hit the Hokele’a which was a sitting duck because of flooding. The wave knocked all the crew members off the boat and caused the boat to flip over. Nobody drowned because they all had life jackets on. Eddie volunteered to paddle on his surfboard that he brought with him to the island of Lana’i, which was a couple miles away. After spending a couple hours in the water the captain allowed Eddie to paddle to the island, fearing the fate of the rest of the crew. Eddie was given a bag of sugar cubes for energy, a knife, a whistle and a strobe light. He wore a life jacket around his waist. Before he departed the crew said a prayer and Eddie was on his way. The crew was chanting “Go, Eddie, Go!” About 50 feet from the boat Eddie took off his life jacket.
The crew was stranded around the boat for another day. They spotted a plane and a boat but the crew was unnoticeable. Finally a plane that carried Japanese tourists spotted the crew and then about an hour later a plane came to rescue the crew. The captain told the rescue crew about Eddie and they started a search.
The search lasted several days but Eddie was nowhere to be found. One time when Clyde was in a helicopter Eddie’s board was spotted but there was no Eddie. Eddie always wanted his ashes to be scattered around Waimea Bay but since there was no body, volcanic rock became a substitute for ashes because volcanic rock was a part of Eddie.
A couple years later the Hokele’a sailed to Hawaii with a dedication tablet of Eddie’s name. Eddie’s brother Clyde decided he wanted to complete Eddie’s journey so he flew to Tahiti and sailed all the way back to Hawaii. Eddie was a hero of Hawaii; he sacrificed himself for his crew, a true hero. He will never be forgotten.
After Eddie’s death the first Eddie Aikau Quiksilver contest was held at Waimea Bay. Clyde and Eddie’s friends were the top competitors of this contest. While paddling out Clyde spotted two turtles that resembled Eddie and Jose. Clyde followed the turtles way outside then a monster set wave came through and Clyde caught it and rode it into the inside. He followed the turtles again and caught another monster wave. Clyde won the contest and dedicated his victory to his brother Eddie. Clyde still believes that the turtles were the guiding spirits of Eddie and Jose.
Some of the main characters in this book are Eddie Aikau who is a Hawaiian who risks his life for others. He was a lifeguard and a big wave surfer. He is a hero to modern day Hawaiians because of his dedication to helping other people and his aloha spirit.
Another character that I found important to this story is Eddie’s hero, Duke Kahanamoku. Duke was a true Hawaiian legend. He won Olympic medals, acted in movies and most of all he promoted surfing to Australia and mainland United States. He was the one who inspired Eddie to surf. If Duke wasn’t around then Eddie might have not turned into a waterman.
One conflict that I found while reading this book is Eddie’s passion for the ocean and Eddie’s marriage. Before Eddie met his wife he has a passion for the ocean he loved it more than anything. After he got married he became a pro surfer and he traveled a lot, putting a strain on their marriage. Eddie was always putting himself at risk to save others which might have made his wife become worried about him all the time. He also was a big wave surfer and there was always a chance that he could die. The real breaker in their marriage was when he decided the Hokele’a was more important than their marriage, which caused a divorce.
The part that I enjoyed reading the most in this book is how Hawaiians came to be. From arriving at the Hawaiian Islands to bombing at Pearl Harbor to being the 50th state. I personally find that fascinating. I also enjoyed the part when the author was talking about how Eddie rode the waves it made me feel like I was inside the tube.
I would recommend this book to anyone who wants to learn about the history of Hawaii and its greatest hero’s. I would also recommend this book to anyone who doesn’t know a whole lot about Eddie Aikau. This book shows a lot about the progression of surfing from Hawaii to Australia, from long boards to shorter boards.
October 13, 2023
Go to the Waimea Bay on Oahu, Hawaii and you'll see and you'll find a memorial rock paying tribute to Eddie Aikau. Look around, and you just may see a shirt or two with the logo "Eddie Would Go."
Eddie Aikau was a legendary Big Wave Surf pioneer, one of the first lifeguards at Waimea bay and a crew member on the ill-fated sophomore voyage of the Hokule'a traditional Polynesian canoe. But that sentence doesn't explain why he is also a hero and a legend.
A loyal family man and proud Hawaiian, Eddie felt a responsibility for his home and the people who lived and visited there. As a lifeguard, he rescued countless people from the waves he respected, even if they didn't, often braving the waves when no one else would to pull people to safety. As a surfer, he would ride the waves others thought were too large or unreliable. When others held back, Eddie would go.
Coleman has given us a biography that gives us a full picture of the man who was both introverted and outgoing, and who was both a competitor and a peacemaker, and who had a lasting impact on the lives of everyone he met. It's also a story of Hawaii and resurgence of Hawaiian culture and pride.
Eddie Aikau was a legendary Big Wave Surf pioneer, one of the first lifeguards at Waimea bay and a crew member on the ill-fated sophomore voyage of the Hokule'a traditional Polynesian canoe. But that sentence doesn't explain why he is also a hero and a legend.
A loyal family man and proud Hawaiian, Eddie felt a responsibility for his home and the people who lived and visited there. As a lifeguard, he rescued countless people from the waves he respected, even if they didn't, often braving the waves when no one else would to pull people to safety. As a surfer, he would ride the waves others thought were too large or unreliable. When others held back, Eddie would go.
Coleman has given us a biography that gives us a full picture of the man who was both introverted and outgoing, and who was both a competitor and a peacemaker, and who had a lasting impact on the lives of everyone he met. It's also a story of Hawaii and resurgence of Hawaiian culture and pride.
October 18, 2019
It took me a long time to read this book, but not because it isn’t good, but because it’s a totally different genre than I normally read! I think because it’s nonfiction and not a subject I am well acquainted with (surfing) it took me longer to process it as well as continue with motivation to keep reading consistently! And then normal life happens along the way.
It’s a good book about a man who really showed a lot of love towards others and of the ocean! Living close to a beach as I read this book I kept looking at the surfers and couldn’t help but think of this book. Eddie had a deep respect and bond with the ocean. The way the surfers explain catching a wave and reading the ocean was amazing to me!
There were some major themes throughout the book: family, cultural allegiance, tolerance etc. It was a good book to slowly ponder!
Rating: 3.5 stars
It’s a good book about a man who really showed a lot of love towards others and of the ocean! Living close to a beach as I read this book I kept looking at the surfers and couldn’t help but think of this book. Eddie had a deep respect and bond with the ocean. The way the surfers explain catching a wave and reading the ocean was amazing to me!
There were some major themes throughout the book: family, cultural allegiance, tolerance etc. It was a good book to slowly ponder!
Rating: 3.5 stars
October 25, 2023
For surf bio/memoir, only Barbarian Days is better. This has a broader scope and covers many other personalities and events in Hawaiian history. Most of the surfing covered is specifically big wave surfing, which I find less interesting and relatable than other sub-disciplines of surfing, but the author does a wonderful job with his subject matter, aided by colorful personalities and dialogue. Highly recommended to anyone curious about surfing or Hawaii.
January 16, 2024
Eddie Would Go: 夏威夷oahu north shore巨浪传奇Eddie的短暂人生和夏威夷早期冲浪史。夏威夷不只有旅游宣传提到的令人神伤的珍珠港，清澈蓝绿的海水，多彩灵动的海底世界，热情洋溢的音乐篝火晚会，玲琅满目的购物中心、度假酒店、ABC超市。 书里让我看到了本地人民朴素的海岛生存生活以及对自己文化的捍卫、对外在影响的接纳： 如何接受世界各地冲浪者带着媒体和商业来到此地把灵魂冲浪变成竞技冲浪, 如何认同自己的肤色种族，如何在历史和商业双重巨变下解决冲突捍卫夏威夷冲浪、传统文化的同时还保持开放包容的心态迎接美国本土和世界文化冲击。个人层面：面对巨浪和变故如何直面恐惧和自我怀疑,如何消化年轻亲人的逝去，如何治愈服役越战带来的创伤……很遗憾为了完成夏威夷文艺复兴Hōkūleʻa号双体独木舟在天气不允许和船员们没信心的情况迫于外在压力如期用古老航海方式孤舟扬帆远行，导致Eddie 32岁生命嘎然而止、船员们的余生在幸存者内疚中苦苦挣扎。 想起一位年长的朋友和我说过：生命短暂，不必向外在世界证明什么，快乐活出自己最重要。写作方面可以生动一点，内容方面不赞同一些生活方式。
June 21, 2023
Really interesting book about Hawaiian surf legend Eddie Aikau. In addition to his story, the author weaves the history of Hawaii and its culture, and the rise of big wave surfing. Perfect read while on a Hawaii trip
December 30, 2024
wow what an amazing story and individual Eddie was.
I really liked learning about community, connection to nature and culture and the dangers of the surfing and lifesaving. The last few chapters are really affecting.
Four - bloody aussie bleeders made in into here?! - out of five
I really liked learning about community, connection to nature and culture and the dangers of the surfing and lifesaving. The last few chapters are really affecting.
Four - bloody aussie bleeders made in into here?! - out of five
June 24, 2019
Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero
This is the story of a hero, a man whose legend has become larger than life. Eddie Aikau dedicated his life to saving the lives of others, the thrills of big waves, becoming one with the ocean, and staying true to his cultural roots. Sadly, this drive would not only lead him to live his life, but also bring it to a sad but heroic conclusion.
I enjoyed learning the story behind the man, as well as much of the culture of the Hawaiian Islands, and a glimpse of Island life. Coleman's writing, however, to me was lacking some of the polish I wished for and became repetitive in many parts. Despite this, I'm glad I took the time to read this and capture some of the spirit of Aloha. For Eddie, family wasn't limited to those he was related to, but rather it extended to all who came to know him, and perhaps even to those who meet him through learning about his legendary life.
Following are many quotes I've saved to remind me for later when this is discussed at my local book club:
"I think most of us wish if we had a chance to die a certain way, it would be doing something great like what he was doing. Obviously, it was a sad way to see him go but almost a fitting end to the way he lived his life. Being lost in the ocean is tragic, but it's also romantic at the same time" (quoting Kelly Slater, p. 10).
"'At a deeper level, Eddie tried to rescue not only the crew of the Hokule'a but the symbolism and dignity of the canoe because he knew it carried the pride of his people. Twenty-five years later, he's still navigating all of us in the voyaging community. He reminds us what our destination is and why we continue to sail. In the end, Eddie's story is about hope and healing'" (quoting Nainoa Thompson, p. 10).
". . . Surfers have to overcome their fears and natural tendency to panic. 'You gotta be relaxed and believe it's mind over matter. But we're all human, and it gets to the point where your mind realizes that there's too much matter out there. . . . Wipeouts are actually like the highest point of your life—dealing with death, trying to survive, trying not to panic'" (p. 18).
"He describes surfing at Waimea with an almost religious reverence for its power. 'It's kind of like being in a big cathedral. Everything is just magnified, and you can feel the spirit flowing through you'" (p. 18).
"Eddie was a true waterman. For me, a waterman is someone who has great respect for the ocean. The ocean is my educator, teaching me many things" (p. 19).
"Eddie's whole Hawaiianness is like dropping a rock in a pond, creating ripples that affect everyone around the world. Our culture is about protecting life" (p. 19).
"To help someone in need and not expect anything back was what Eddie was all about" (p. 20).
"'Man is merely the caretaker of the land that maintains his life and nourishes his soul. Therefore, the 'aina is sacred. The church of life is not in a building, it is the open sky, the surrounding ocean, the beautiful soil. . . .'" (quoting George Helm) (p. 23).
"Despite the teasing and competition, there was a lot of animosity between the brothers, mostly because Pops forbid it. Each month Pops would gather everyone together for a family meeting to work out any disagreements or resentments. This was a tradition in Hawai'i called ho'oponopono (to make right), and no one could leave the table until the matter had been hashed out and resolved. Whenever arguments or sibling rivalries arose, these meetings helped the family deal with the divisive issues, bringing them closer together. 'I think that's the key,' Myra says, 'You've got to talk with each other. I think that's why it works so well in our family. My dad had that meeting every month since we were five. I would say our prayers and then, boom, we'd talk'" (p. 30).
"Since the coming of the missionaries in 1820, the name of God to our people has been aloha. . . . In other words, aloha is God. Aloha is the power of God seeking to unite what is separated in the world—the power that unites heart with heart, soul with soul, life with life, culture with culture, race with race, nation with nation" (Reverend Dr. Abraham Akaka) (p. 33).
"'I've got some money now, a couple of houses I own, but I'll tell you those years when you got nothing seem to be some of the happiest. How much money do you really need to make you happy?'" (Clyde Aikau) (p. 35).
"What they lacked in money, they would earn in respect" (p. 39).
"'Eddie's the only guy I know even today who will take off on a monster wave and still have a smile on his face,' Clyde says, . . . 'It wasn't just the idea of him paddling into it, it was a matter of him taking off on impossible waves that nobody could make, that nobody could dream of making, but somehow time after time, he would make the impossible waves'" (p. 59).
"'He was a Hawaiian Adonis in that he had the Hawaiian surfing style which is nothing like the Californians or Australians, who are frenetic—they are attacking the wave and tearing it apart, trying to dominate it. Whereas the Hawaiians, especially Eddie, became totally a part of the wave, and you could feel the vibrations of understanding, love, and compassion Eddie had for every wave he rode.' Fred says Eddie had an intimate relationship with the ocean and together they formed a perfect union" (Fred Van Dyke) (p. 60)
"'In Hawai'i we greet friends, loved ones and strangers with aloha, which means love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawai'i renowned as the world's center of understanding and fellowship'" (on the back of Duke Kahanamoku's business card) (p. 73).
"Some say Eddie Aikau shared Duke's generosity, humility and proud Hawaiian spirit. Van Dyke goes even further: 'I described Eddie once at one of the meets as the re-creation of Duke Kahanamoku because Duke likes him a lot too. They were the greatest of athletes. He had the same kind of chest and arms. He had the Hawaiian strength which is almost foreboding. Duke was more of a simple man, and I think Eddie was a simple person in his life. He didn't want complications. He got them, but he didn't want them.' Eddie sought to simplify his life, focusing on family, friends, music and surfing" (p. 73-74).
"But as Clyde and most lifeguards know, you should never turn your back to the sea. This is not only out of respect for the god of the ocean, who can be fickle and dangerous, but it is also practical precaution. Like any experienced waterman, Duke knew what what could happen when you took your eye off the sea or underestimated its power.
'I will never understand the stupidity of people who turn their backs on the ocean,' Eddie once complained to a newspaper columnist. 'People who have no knowledge of the danger the ocean threatens will walk right into it backwards while snapping pictures of their family. One wave and—ZAP—they are grabbed and sucked out in seconds. And worse, still, is the guy who won't let go of his camera, but keeps it high over his head while he is drowning'" (p. 75).
"'Surfing big waves is all about overcoming fear,' Howe says. He remembers seeing swells so big his throat constricted and he could barely breathe. 'Fear paralyzes and fear causes hesitation, and fear is something that we all have. . . So every year, if you're going to surf big waves, you have to go through a process of mentally and physically preparing yourself. The physical part is relatively simple—you have to be fit, you swim, you run. But the mental part is a lot more challenging because you have to revisit those old fears and you have to overcome them. If you look at a guy like Eddie, here's a guy who did that year in and year out. It takes a lot of courage to do that. Some people are fearless because they use drugs. They block that out through drugs and alcohol. I think Butch Van Artsdalen was a good example of that. The guy was fearless because he was totally wacked all the time. Gerry Lopez conquered that fear through meditation and found that inner peace and grace to stand there in the eye of the hurricane.' . . . For Lopez, being inside the' green room' behind a silver curtain of water was a better high than any drug or drink could ever create. He had quit drinking and just focused on his surfing. While Butch was spinning out of control, Gerry came to embody the pure and graceful spirit of soul surfing" (p. 88).
"'. . . You have to have the best knowledge and skill there is to work at Waimea. Not just better than average, or superior, but the best. This is the ultimate for people getting in danger. It's not like Waikiki.' Referring to the military guys who wouldn't heed his warnings, Eddie shared his frustrations. 'The service guys give us the most business. There's a whole bunch of guys. They want to prove a point. Some cannot even bodysurf that good, but they still go out. Pretty soon they're yelling,' Help! Help! Help!' I bring them in and they always say the same thing: 'I didn't know the current was that strong'" (p. 91).
"Eddie admitted that there were times when he wondered why he risked his life to save people who didn't heed his warnings or even thank him for his help. 'A lot of times when I go out, I think, why am I sacrificing myself? Those people who are being saved are helpless. I trust myself. I think I can get out of the water. But they are helpless. I can't see a helpless person go down. I can't stay here and do nothing.' Like a fireman instinctively rushing into a burning building, Eddie would throw himself into waves that looked like collapsing glass towers" (p. 91).
"'Surfing is not really a contest in its natural state. You go out surfing to ride the waves. It's kind of like a dance, a communication between yourself and the ocean. And the object is to achieve harmony with that manifestation of nature.' Neither he nor Eddie liked being in big contests, but Jones said they were forced to learn. 'I had the surfing talent, but you have to fit that into the competitive structure. You've got 45 minutes to catch the three best waves. There's a whole strategy going on. All that jazz. I never really enjoyed competing. But I loved to surf, and the only way I could see continuing to surf was to support myself in the sport'" (quoting James Jones on being a 'soul surfer', p. 122).
". . . The highlight of the evening would be when Momma Aikau performed. 'Mom was next to a deity—those boys really worshipped their mother. When Mom sang, it was a treat. You considered yourself blessed if she got up to sing the old Hawaiian songs.' Singing in a melodious language that was hardly spoken anymore, her soft voice would bring to life a peaceful vision of the islands as they once were—and would never be again. Her sons would accompany her with tears in their eyes, and every one at the party would grow quiet as a music settled over them like a soft mist, transporting them to the past. 'It was life altering having that experience,' Kathy says quietly, lost in memories of that time“ (p. 128).
"Eddie probably felt embarrassed and uncomfortable with this sudden role reversal—after all, he was the one who was supposed to help other hapless victims in the surf. But as any lifeguard knows, the ocean is the most unpredictable entity in the world and can catch even the most experienced watermen off-guard. It can kill without warning" (p. 134).
"Worse than any physical injury was the debilitating disease of fear. As a big-wave rider, Eddie knew that if he gave into his fears, he could easily die in such huge surf. If he hesitated for a moment during the take-off, the lip of the wave would catapult him into the air and slam him against the water. As a legendary surfer once put it, big waves were not measured in feet but in increments of fear. As Eddie dropped down the faces of these enormous waves, he understood that he had to overcome each increment of fear with a grater degree of courage or else it would overcome him. Surfing became a metaphor for his life: Eddie had to regain his balance and find the natural flow, or he was going to wipe out all over again. In this way, he rediscovered the danger and thrill of riding mountainous waves" (p. 134-135).
"James shared Eddie's belief that safety and friendship were more important than competition. . ." (p. 137).
"Like the sirens' song, the roaring surf at Waimea Bay had an almost irresistible appeal to surfers eager to prove themselves in the world's largest waves. From the shore, the swells often look beautiful and inviting, but out in the lineup, surfers discovered just how deadly and destructive they could be. Young daredevils and experienced big-wave riders alike would fall for Waimea's seductive charms. Then, in that moment of truth after a terrible wipeout, they would find themselves swimming for their lives to avoid being crushed on the rocks. Eddie had been there and knew how bad it could be. He cautioned younger surfers about the dangers of the Bay and shared his wave knowledge with them" (p. 139).
"Kimo gave away his boards and vowed never to go out at Waimea. 'That was it. I never surfed big waves again,' he says. 'I figured you don't get a second chance. Something that could be so innocent and fun can just turn so deadly'" (p. 143).
"'The wipeout is the ultimate in showing you what a fool you are, in showing you how vulnerable you are. The wipeout puts you on that edge where the most important thing is not the mortgage you have or the money you have or the cars or anything—it's getting one tiny little breath of air'" (Fred Van Dyke, p. 144).
"Fred says it was his friend Peter Cole who had originally pushed him to overcome his fears and ride the biggest waves. 'You either attack fear or you retreat from it, and Peter attacks fear. It was his presence that stoked me to become a much better big-wave rider'" (p. 144).
"Depending on the wind and the ocean's fickle moods, the waves could vary from season to season, day to day, and even hour to hour. Each swell had its own personality and musical rhythm. They could be gentle and flowing like Hawaiian songs, rough and fast like rock 'n roll, in predictable and funky like jazz, or powerful and ominous like a classical symphony building to a thunderous crescendo" (p. 148).
"Jose had a reputation of being fearless in the water and on land, but he was still a man of flesh, blood and nerves. He didn't seem to recognize that fear is an integral part of living, as Eddie would soon discover, and to deny it was to flirt with death" (p. 153).
"Like most surfers, Eddie took his personal problems to the sea in hopes that the waves would wash them away" (p. 159).
'The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness" (quoting Kamehameha III, p. 165).
"They (Eddie and many Hawaiians) rediscovered a lost pride in their heritage, but they also became enraged over their cultural oppression" (p. 166).
"Beadie Dawson goes on to say that traditional Hawaiians didn't believe that owning the land was possible or important. 'What was of importance was the 'ohana, the family. Hawaiians are basically a very inclusive people,' she says. 'We hav been from day one. We never chased anyone from our shores—we welcomed everyone, and we still do. The tradition of hanai is typical of the way Hawaiians welcome people, not just to the Islands but into our homes, into our hearts and into our families.' Gerry Lopez says that's exactly how the Aikaus lived. 'That was the true aloha spirit,' he says. 'I guess that's what happened to the Hawaiian people—they gave and gave until it was all gone. It's kind of sad'" (p. 166).
" Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
(The Life of the Land is Perpetuated in Righteousness)
If just for a day our king and queen
Would visit all these islands and saw everything
How would they feel about the changes of our land
Could you just imagine if they were around
And saw highways on their sacred grounds
How would they feel about this modern city life
Tears would come from each others eyes
As they would stop to realize
That our people are in great great danger now
How, would they feel, could their smiles be content, then cry
Cry for the gods, cry for the people
Cry for the land that was taken away
And then yet you'll find, Hawai'i
Could you just imagine they came back
And saw traffic lights and railroad tracks
How would they feel about this modern city life
Tears would come from each others eyes
As they would stop to realize
That our land is in great great danger now
All the fighting that the king had done
To conquer all these islands now these condominiums
How would he feel if he saw Hawai'i nei
How, would he feel, would his smile be content, then cry
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i"
(quoting "Hawai'i '78" by Israel Kamakawiwoʻole, p. 165-167, more than in book quoted from music lyrics found online)
"Herb Kane quickly led the charge in trying to take control of the voyaging canoe and make it a cultural symbol. 'It's a shared icon of mutuality and ancestry and a reminder of the courage, intelligence and grit of our ancestors,' he says" (p. 172-173).
"John Kruse remembers how the fight and dissension infuriated Mau and eventually drove him away from the project. 'On the trip, Mau said your problems on the canoe when you when you do deep-sea voyaging, those little problems that everyone takes for granted and that we can always walk away from on land, those little problems become big problems at sea. So you have to think as one big family, and if you make it, you're going to make it as a family; and if you die or get lost at sea, you're gonna die as one family. Some guys get stir-crazy when they can't see the land. The ocean can be unforgiving.' After selling together for almost 2,500 miles, they had made it as a family of sorts, but it was a bitter and divided one" (p. 179).
". . . Eddie's cultural roots as a Hawaiian helped shape his instincts as a sailor, surfer and waterman. 'We may live in America, but socially and culturally, we live in Polynesia, and Polynesian culture centers around the ocean. They were the greatest water people in the world. And for them to be here in Hawai'i meant that they were the best of the best because this was the farthest inland chain they had to travel to. Before the Hawaiian Renaissance these ocean skills were devalued, but people like the Aikaus kept up those traditions and made a bridge to the past. For me, it goes back to this tradition through thousands of years of trying to understand the ocean. It's this huge body of knowledge that's passed on from generation to generation. It's a knowledge of the most dynamic environment on Earth since the ocean is always changing its moods. That's the essence of being a waterman, having the knowledge and confidence to do anything you want in the ocean. There's a lot of signs if you know what to look for'" (quoting Jim Howe, p. 182).
"'Rage, rage against the dying of the light'" (Dylan Thomas, p. 185).
"According to his son Brian, Buffalo Keaulana calls these violent, Hawaiian radicals 'coconuts' because they are 'brown on the outside and white on the inside.' As a lifeguard trainer, Brian tells his young Hawaiian counterparts to avoid this kind of reverse racism and hypocracy. 'Make sure you practice your culture before you start preaching to someone else'" (p. 193).
"'The thoughts of man are like caves whose interiors one cannot see" (Hawaiian proverb, p. 197).
"What drove Eddie to put his life on the line, knowing that one bad wipeout could be the end? 'He was not trying to risk his life for defy death,' Linda says, still trying to understand enigmatic husband. 'It was a way for him to feel worthy. He wanted to achieve something for the Hawaiian people'" (p. 198).
(More quotes in comments. Goodreads has a character limit! Who knew?!?)
This is the story of a hero, a man whose legend has become larger than life. Eddie Aikau dedicated his life to saving the lives of others, the thrills of big waves, becoming one with the ocean, and staying true to his cultural roots. Sadly, this drive would not only lead him to live his life, but also bring it to a sad but heroic conclusion.
I enjoyed learning the story behind the man, as well as much of the culture of the Hawaiian Islands, and a glimpse of Island life. Coleman's writing, however, to me was lacking some of the polish I wished for and became repetitive in many parts. Despite this, I'm glad I took the time to read this and capture some of the spirit of Aloha. For Eddie, family wasn't limited to those he was related to, but rather it extended to all who came to know him, and perhaps even to those who meet him through learning about his legendary life.
Following are many quotes I've saved to remind me for later when this is discussed at my local book club:
"I think most of us wish if we had a chance to die a certain way, it would be doing something great like what he was doing. Obviously, it was a sad way to see him go but almost a fitting end to the way he lived his life. Being lost in the ocean is tragic, but it's also romantic at the same time" (quoting Kelly Slater, p. 10).
"'At a deeper level, Eddie tried to rescue not only the crew of the Hokule'a but the symbolism and dignity of the canoe because he knew it carried the pride of his people. Twenty-five years later, he's still navigating all of us in the voyaging community. He reminds us what our destination is and why we continue to sail. In the end, Eddie's story is about hope and healing'" (quoting Nainoa Thompson, p. 10).
". . . Surfers have to overcome their fears and natural tendency to panic. 'You gotta be relaxed and believe it's mind over matter. But we're all human, and it gets to the point where your mind realizes that there's too much matter out there. . . . Wipeouts are actually like the highest point of your life—dealing with death, trying to survive, trying not to panic'" (p. 18).
"He describes surfing at Waimea with an almost religious reverence for its power. 'It's kind of like being in a big cathedral. Everything is just magnified, and you can feel the spirit flowing through you'" (p. 18).
"Eddie was a true waterman. For me, a waterman is someone who has great respect for the ocean. The ocean is my educator, teaching me many things" (p. 19).
"Eddie's whole Hawaiianness is like dropping a rock in a pond, creating ripples that affect everyone around the world. Our culture is about protecting life" (p. 19).
"To help someone in need and not expect anything back was what Eddie was all about" (p. 20).
"'Man is merely the caretaker of the land that maintains his life and nourishes his soul. Therefore, the 'aina is sacred. The church of life is not in a building, it is the open sky, the surrounding ocean, the beautiful soil. . . .'" (quoting George Helm) (p. 23).
"Despite the teasing and competition, there was a lot of animosity between the brothers, mostly because Pops forbid it. Each month Pops would gather everyone together for a family meeting to work out any disagreements or resentments. This was a tradition in Hawai'i called ho'oponopono (to make right), and no one could leave the table until the matter had been hashed out and resolved. Whenever arguments or sibling rivalries arose, these meetings helped the family deal with the divisive issues, bringing them closer together. 'I think that's the key,' Myra says, 'You've got to talk with each other. I think that's why it works so well in our family. My dad had that meeting every month since we were five. I would say our prayers and then, boom, we'd talk'" (p. 30).
"Since the coming of the missionaries in 1820, the name of God to our people has been aloha. . . . In other words, aloha is God. Aloha is the power of God seeking to unite what is separated in the world—the power that unites heart with heart, soul with soul, life with life, culture with culture, race with race, nation with nation" (Reverend Dr. Abraham Akaka) (p. 33).
"'I've got some money now, a couple of houses I own, but I'll tell you those years when you got nothing seem to be some of the happiest. How much money do you really need to make you happy?'" (Clyde Aikau) (p. 35).
"What they lacked in money, they would earn in respect" (p. 39).
"'Eddie's the only guy I know even today who will take off on a monster wave and still have a smile on his face,' Clyde says, . . . 'It wasn't just the idea of him paddling into it, it was a matter of him taking off on impossible waves that nobody could make, that nobody could dream of making, but somehow time after time, he would make the impossible waves'" (p. 59).
"'He was a Hawaiian Adonis in that he had the Hawaiian surfing style which is nothing like the Californians or Australians, who are frenetic—they are attacking the wave and tearing it apart, trying to dominate it. Whereas the Hawaiians, especially Eddie, became totally a part of the wave, and you could feel the vibrations of understanding, love, and compassion Eddie had for every wave he rode.' Fred says Eddie had an intimate relationship with the ocean and together they formed a perfect union" (Fred Van Dyke) (p. 60)
"'In Hawai'i we greet friends, loved ones and strangers with aloha, which means love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawai'i renowned as the world's center of understanding and fellowship'" (on the back of Duke Kahanamoku's business card) (p. 73).
"Some say Eddie Aikau shared Duke's generosity, humility and proud Hawaiian spirit. Van Dyke goes even further: 'I described Eddie once at one of the meets as the re-creation of Duke Kahanamoku because Duke likes him a lot too. They were the greatest of athletes. He had the same kind of chest and arms. He had the Hawaiian strength which is almost foreboding. Duke was more of a simple man, and I think Eddie was a simple person in his life. He didn't want complications. He got them, but he didn't want them.' Eddie sought to simplify his life, focusing on family, friends, music and surfing" (p. 73-74).
"But as Clyde and most lifeguards know, you should never turn your back to the sea. This is not only out of respect for the god of the ocean, who can be fickle and dangerous, but it is also practical precaution. Like any experienced waterman, Duke knew what what could happen when you took your eye off the sea or underestimated its power.
'I will never understand the stupidity of people who turn their backs on the ocean,' Eddie once complained to a newspaper columnist. 'People who have no knowledge of the danger the ocean threatens will walk right into it backwards while snapping pictures of their family. One wave and—ZAP—they are grabbed and sucked out in seconds. And worse, still, is the guy who won't let go of his camera, but keeps it high over his head while he is drowning'" (p. 75).
"'Surfing big waves is all about overcoming fear,' Howe says. He remembers seeing swells so big his throat constricted and he could barely breathe. 'Fear paralyzes and fear causes hesitation, and fear is something that we all have. . . So every year, if you're going to surf big waves, you have to go through a process of mentally and physically preparing yourself. The physical part is relatively simple—you have to be fit, you swim, you run. But the mental part is a lot more challenging because you have to revisit those old fears and you have to overcome them. If you look at a guy like Eddie, here's a guy who did that year in and year out. It takes a lot of courage to do that. Some people are fearless because they use drugs. They block that out through drugs and alcohol. I think Butch Van Artsdalen was a good example of that. The guy was fearless because he was totally wacked all the time. Gerry Lopez conquered that fear through meditation and found that inner peace and grace to stand there in the eye of the hurricane.' . . . For Lopez, being inside the' green room' behind a silver curtain of water was a better high than any drug or drink could ever create. He had quit drinking and just focused on his surfing. While Butch was spinning out of control, Gerry came to embody the pure and graceful spirit of soul surfing" (p. 88).
"'. . . You have to have the best knowledge and skill there is to work at Waimea. Not just better than average, or superior, but the best. This is the ultimate for people getting in danger. It's not like Waikiki.' Referring to the military guys who wouldn't heed his warnings, Eddie shared his frustrations. 'The service guys give us the most business. There's a whole bunch of guys. They want to prove a point. Some cannot even bodysurf that good, but they still go out. Pretty soon they're yelling,' Help! Help! Help!' I bring them in and they always say the same thing: 'I didn't know the current was that strong'" (p. 91).
"Eddie admitted that there were times when he wondered why he risked his life to save people who didn't heed his warnings or even thank him for his help. 'A lot of times when I go out, I think, why am I sacrificing myself? Those people who are being saved are helpless. I trust myself. I think I can get out of the water. But they are helpless. I can't see a helpless person go down. I can't stay here and do nothing.' Like a fireman instinctively rushing into a burning building, Eddie would throw himself into waves that looked like collapsing glass towers" (p. 91).
"'Surfing is not really a contest in its natural state. You go out surfing to ride the waves. It's kind of like a dance, a communication between yourself and the ocean. And the object is to achieve harmony with that manifestation of nature.' Neither he nor Eddie liked being in big contests, but Jones said they were forced to learn. 'I had the surfing talent, but you have to fit that into the competitive structure. You've got 45 minutes to catch the three best waves. There's a whole strategy going on. All that jazz. I never really enjoyed competing. But I loved to surf, and the only way I could see continuing to surf was to support myself in the sport'" (quoting James Jones on being a 'soul surfer', p. 122).
". . . The highlight of the evening would be when Momma Aikau performed. 'Mom was next to a deity—those boys really worshipped their mother. When Mom sang, it was a treat. You considered yourself blessed if she got up to sing the old Hawaiian songs.' Singing in a melodious language that was hardly spoken anymore, her soft voice would bring to life a peaceful vision of the islands as they once were—and would never be again. Her sons would accompany her with tears in their eyes, and every one at the party would grow quiet as a music settled over them like a soft mist, transporting them to the past. 'It was life altering having that experience,' Kathy says quietly, lost in memories of that time“ (p. 128).
"Eddie probably felt embarrassed and uncomfortable with this sudden role reversal—after all, he was the one who was supposed to help other hapless victims in the surf. But as any lifeguard knows, the ocean is the most unpredictable entity in the world and can catch even the most experienced watermen off-guard. It can kill without warning" (p. 134).
"Worse than any physical injury was the debilitating disease of fear. As a big-wave rider, Eddie knew that if he gave into his fears, he could easily die in such huge surf. If he hesitated for a moment during the take-off, the lip of the wave would catapult him into the air and slam him against the water. As a legendary surfer once put it, big waves were not measured in feet but in increments of fear. As Eddie dropped down the faces of these enormous waves, he understood that he had to overcome each increment of fear with a grater degree of courage or else it would overcome him. Surfing became a metaphor for his life: Eddie had to regain his balance and find the natural flow, or he was going to wipe out all over again. In this way, he rediscovered the danger and thrill of riding mountainous waves" (p. 134-135).
"James shared Eddie's belief that safety and friendship were more important than competition. . ." (p. 137).
"Like the sirens' song, the roaring surf at Waimea Bay had an almost irresistible appeal to surfers eager to prove themselves in the world's largest waves. From the shore, the swells often look beautiful and inviting, but out in the lineup, surfers discovered just how deadly and destructive they could be. Young daredevils and experienced big-wave riders alike would fall for Waimea's seductive charms. Then, in that moment of truth after a terrible wipeout, they would find themselves swimming for their lives to avoid being crushed on the rocks. Eddie had been there and knew how bad it could be. He cautioned younger surfers about the dangers of the Bay and shared his wave knowledge with them" (p. 139).
"Kimo gave away his boards and vowed never to go out at Waimea. 'That was it. I never surfed big waves again,' he says. 'I figured you don't get a second chance. Something that could be so innocent and fun can just turn so deadly'" (p. 143).
"'The wipeout is the ultimate in showing you what a fool you are, in showing you how vulnerable you are. The wipeout puts you on that edge where the most important thing is not the mortgage you have or the money you have or the cars or anything—it's getting one tiny little breath of air'" (Fred Van Dyke, p. 144).
"Fred says it was his friend Peter Cole who had originally pushed him to overcome his fears and ride the biggest waves. 'You either attack fear or you retreat from it, and Peter attacks fear. It was his presence that stoked me to become a much better big-wave rider'" (p. 144).
"Depending on the wind and the ocean's fickle moods, the waves could vary from season to season, day to day, and even hour to hour. Each swell had its own personality and musical rhythm. They could be gentle and flowing like Hawaiian songs, rough and fast like rock 'n roll, in predictable and funky like jazz, or powerful and ominous like a classical symphony building to a thunderous crescendo" (p. 148).
"Jose had a reputation of being fearless in the water and on land, but he was still a man of flesh, blood and nerves. He didn't seem to recognize that fear is an integral part of living, as Eddie would soon discover, and to deny it was to flirt with death" (p. 153).
"Like most surfers, Eddie took his personal problems to the sea in hopes that the waves would wash them away" (p. 159).
'The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness" (quoting Kamehameha III, p. 165).
"They (Eddie and many Hawaiians) rediscovered a lost pride in their heritage, but they also became enraged over their cultural oppression" (p. 166).
"Beadie Dawson goes on to say that traditional Hawaiians didn't believe that owning the land was possible or important. 'What was of importance was the 'ohana, the family. Hawaiians are basically a very inclusive people,' she says. 'We hav been from day one. We never chased anyone from our shores—we welcomed everyone, and we still do. The tradition of hanai is typical of the way Hawaiians welcome people, not just to the Islands but into our homes, into our hearts and into our families.' Gerry Lopez says that's exactly how the Aikaus lived. 'That was the true aloha spirit,' he says. 'I guess that's what happened to the Hawaiian people—they gave and gave until it was all gone. It's kind of sad'" (p. 166).
" Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
(The Life of the Land is Perpetuated in Righteousness)
If just for a day our king and queen
Would visit all these islands and saw everything
How would they feel about the changes of our land
Could you just imagine if they were around
And saw highways on their sacred grounds
How would they feel about this modern city life
Tears would come from each others eyes
As they would stop to realize
That our people are in great great danger now
How, would they feel, could their smiles be content, then cry
Cry for the gods, cry for the people
Cry for the land that was taken away
And then yet you'll find, Hawai'i
Could you just imagine they came back
And saw traffic lights and railroad tracks
How would they feel about this modern city life
Tears would come from each others eyes
As they would stop to realize
That our land is in great great danger now
All the fighting that the king had done
To conquer all these islands now these condominiums
How would he feel if he saw Hawai'i nei
How, would he feel, would his smile be content, then cry
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i
Ua mau, ke ea o ka aina, i ka pono, o Hawai'i"
(quoting "Hawai'i '78" by Israel Kamakawiwoʻole, p. 165-167, more than in book quoted from music lyrics found online)
"Herb Kane quickly led the charge in trying to take control of the voyaging canoe and make it a cultural symbol. 'It's a shared icon of mutuality and ancestry and a reminder of the courage, intelligence and grit of our ancestors,' he says" (p. 172-173).
"John Kruse remembers how the fight and dissension infuriated Mau and eventually drove him away from the project. 'On the trip, Mau said your problems on the canoe when you when you do deep-sea voyaging, those little problems that everyone takes for granted and that we can always walk away from on land, those little problems become big problems at sea. So you have to think as one big family, and if you make it, you're going to make it as a family; and if you die or get lost at sea, you're gonna die as one family. Some guys get stir-crazy when they can't see the land. The ocean can be unforgiving.' After selling together for almost 2,500 miles, they had made it as a family of sorts, but it was a bitter and divided one" (p. 179).
". . . Eddie's cultural roots as a Hawaiian helped shape his instincts as a sailor, surfer and waterman. 'We may live in America, but socially and culturally, we live in Polynesia, and Polynesian culture centers around the ocean. They were the greatest water people in the world. And for them to be here in Hawai'i meant that they were the best of the best because this was the farthest inland chain they had to travel to. Before the Hawaiian Renaissance these ocean skills were devalued, but people like the Aikaus kept up those traditions and made a bridge to the past. For me, it goes back to this tradition through thousands of years of trying to understand the ocean. It's this huge body of knowledge that's passed on from generation to generation. It's a knowledge of the most dynamic environment on Earth since the ocean is always changing its moods. That's the essence of being a waterman, having the knowledge and confidence to do anything you want in the ocean. There's a lot of signs if you know what to look for'" (quoting Jim Howe, p. 182).
"'Rage, rage against the dying of the light'" (Dylan Thomas, p. 185).
"According to his son Brian, Buffalo Keaulana calls these violent, Hawaiian radicals 'coconuts' because they are 'brown on the outside and white on the inside.' As a lifeguard trainer, Brian tells his young Hawaiian counterparts to avoid this kind of reverse racism and hypocracy. 'Make sure you practice your culture before you start preaching to someone else'" (p. 193).
"'The thoughts of man are like caves whose interiors one cannot see" (Hawaiian proverb, p. 197).
"What drove Eddie to put his life on the line, knowing that one bad wipeout could be the end? 'He was not trying to risk his life for defy death,' Linda says, still trying to understand enigmatic husband. 'It was a way for him to feel worthy. He wanted to achieve something for the Hawaiian people'" (p. 198).
(More quotes in comments. Goodreads has a character limit! Who knew?!?)
November 10, 2010
I read this book knowing already how it ended (it IS non-fiction, after all); as I got closer and closer to the end of the book, I ended up crying anyway. Coleman doesn't gloss over anything and Eddie Aikau is presented warts and all, but anyone with a heart bigger than the Grinch's will come away from this book with immense admiration for him as a flawed but honorable man. Coleman's respect for the Hawaiian culture is evident and serves the story well. Aikau's family is fiercely protective of his memory and the fact that they gave Coleman the level of access they did is testament to their recognition of his respect.
For years, I had an "Eddie Would Go" bumper sticker on my car and when people would ask, all I could say was "read the book." There is no way to sum Eddie Aikau up in a couple of sentences, but Coleman does a beautiful job in a couple hundred pages.
If you are hesitant to read it because you aren't into surfing or Hawaii, don't let that deter you; this may be a story about both, but it's so much more than that.
For years, I had an "Eddie Would Go" bumper sticker on my car and when people would ask, all I could say was "read the book." There is no way to sum Eddie Aikau up in a couple of sentences, but Coleman does a beautiful job in a couple hundred pages.
If you are hesitant to read it because you aren't into surfing or Hawaii, don't let that deter you; this may be a story about both, but it's so much more than that.
January 30, 2014
I absolutely loved this book written by my friend Stuart Coleman! After living in Hawaii for almost four years now, I have heard bits and pieces of Eddie Aikau's story but this book was a wonderful account of his full life. In combination with Eddie's stories, the various side stories brought to life Hawaii and the rise of surfing culture and sport since the 1960's. I can just imagine how fun it must have been to do the research for this book - talking story with many of Hawaii's surf legends, Hokulea's founders and crew, and the Aikau family. I think Stuart did an outstanding job of documenting not only Eddie's story but also many other significant tales from both the development of Hawaiian surfing culture and Hokulea as a symbol of Hawaiian cultural revival. Entertaining and enlightening...a great read for anyone who loves surfing, Hawaii or is interested in learning more about the story behind the prestige of The Eddie.
August 24, 2008
A great tale of Eddie Aikau, an amazing young man who put others well being ahead of his own. Though his selfless life was cut short, his legacy continues to live on in the hearts of the Hawaiian people and those, like myself, who have the priveledge of living among them. He continues to be a beacon for doing what is right even when it becomes difficult. This mentality is embodied in a common Hawaiian saying taken for the title of this book: "Eddie Would Go".
August 26, 2008
I have now read this book four times. I admire the depth and breadth of the writing, and I particularly enjoy the respect and honesty brought to bear in the telling of the interweaving of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the life of Eddie Aikau. Beautiful work: it deserves the full attention of any reader, especially those who enjoy non-fiction.
September 11, 2008
I surf...it's my greatest passion. And Eddie is seen by many like me as one of our sport's greatest heroes. So reading this book was almost a requirement to better understand the entire background and story related to Eddie. Mr. Coleman did a very good job of making this an enjoyable read without having to resort to surfing sensationalism to draw in readers.
February 26, 2013
Great story, if not perfectly written. You don't need to be a surf enthusiast to be transported by this look at an extraordinary man who, but for this book, would not be known outside the world of big wave surfing. We'd all like to spend a day with someone like Eddie, which through the magic of a book like this, we are able to do.
April 17, 2014
I read this while being on a surf trip in Sri Lanka. I truly enjoyed it and think others will as well. It is not only about surfing, it is about Hawaii, the characters of the time and most importantly the life of a true legend.
I would highly recommend it and if you stay at Ebb & Flow in Midigama, Sri Lanka, you can pickup my copy I left behind:)
I would highly recommend it and if you stay at Ebb & Flow in Midigama, Sri Lanka, you can pickup my copy I left behind:)
January 26, 2015
This is a pretty interesting account of Eddie Aikau, the first lifeguard on the North Shore and a famous big wave surfer. The author does a nice job describing the surfing culture, Hawaiian culture, and Eddie's life and legacy.
February 25, 2015
I always wondered about Eddie Aikau's story and here it is - sweet and simply told, the life of one of the great watermen of Hawaii, and also about the potency, for better or worse, of cultural pride.
August 29, 2009
Very interesting story about Hawaiian big wave surfer, Eddie Aikau. Sadly, it's not very well written.
July 12, 2016
What a wondeful book. Truly catches the soul and passion of the great Eddie Aikau!
July 16, 2012
Not the most compellingly written book, but Eddie Aikau is an amazing person, and I found the way he lived his life to be inspiring. The end in heart breaking, and I definitely shed a tear or two.
February 17, 2014
Fascinating story about a great Hawaiian hero whose passions were helping others and surfing. Well researched, breathtaking and overall fascinating.
May 4, 2015
A true hawaiian Legend. Lovely stories about hawaiian culture.
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