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Silverland
Silverland charts Dervla Murphy's extraordinary expedition through the snowscapes of Far Eastern Russia. No stranger to adventure, the intrepid septuagenarian's mid-winter journey takes her beyond Siberia to the furthest corners of Russia - areas proximate to Japan, Mongolia and the Arctic Circle. Here she discovers a strange world of lynx and elks, indigenous tribes and shamanism, reindeer broth and taiga-berry pie.
She takes the coal-fuelled slow-train around regions hardly exposed to tourism and there she meets a host of colourful and generous characters. They invite this unconventional Irish Babushka into their homes where she enjoys fascinating fireside debate bolstered by steaming samovars of sweet tea. Just like its author, Silverland is insightful, warm and truly original.
She takes the coal-fuelled slow-train around regions hardly exposed to tourism and there she meets a host of colourful and generous characters. They invite this unconventional Irish Babushka into their homes where she enjoys fascinating fireside debate bolstered by steaming samovars of sweet tea. Just like its author, Silverland is insightful, warm and truly original.
- GenresTravelRussiaNonfiction
304 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2006
6 people are currently reading
199 people want to read
About the author
Dervla Murphy
52 books277 followersDervla Murphy’s first book, Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle, was published in 1965. Over twenty travel books followed including her highly acclaimed autobiography, Wheels Within Wheels.
Dervla won worldwide praise for her writing and many awards, including the Christopher Ewart-Biggs Memorial Prize, the Edward Stanford Award for Outstanding Contribution to Travel Writing and the Royal Geographical Award for the popularisation of geography.
Few of the epithets used to describe her – ‘travel legend’, ‘intrepid’ or ‘the first lady of Irish cycling’ – quite do justice to her extraordinary achievement.
She was born in 1931 and remained passionate about travel, writing, politics, Palestine, conservation, bicycling and beer until her death in 2022.
Dervla won worldwide praise for her writing and many awards, including the Christopher Ewart-Biggs Memorial Prize, the Edward Stanford Award for Outstanding Contribution to Travel Writing and the Royal Geographical Award for the popularisation of geography.
Few of the epithets used to describe her – ‘travel legend’, ‘intrepid’ or ‘the first lady of Irish cycling’ – quite do justice to her extraordinary achievement.
She was born in 1931 and remained passionate about travel, writing, politics, Palestine, conservation, bicycling and beer until her death in 2022.
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Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews
March 2, 2014
Much more than a travel book, this is a dense and fascinating mix of history, politics and an intrepid woman's voyage through Siberia. It's one of the most interesting books in the genre that I have ever read, yet I wearied a bit at the end of all of the permafrost and the descriptions of so many depressing and polluted Siberian cities. Despite the miles travelled by the author, the book is somewhat lacking in sense of movement.
I would still recommend it highly, but more as a history read than a travel read, although it is both.
This was the last book in my "Dark Days" winter reading challenge for my online book group, The Book Vipers.
I would still recommend it highly, but more as a history read than a travel read, although it is both.
This was the last book in my "Dark Days" winter reading challenge for my online book group, The Book Vipers.
January 9, 2014
I discovered Dervla Murphy by accident. Ten years ago, I was browsing, with no intention of buying, in the travel lit. section at my local bookstore. And there was Dervla. I knew I couldn't leave the store without her. (If it sounds like I'm talking about meeting my soulmate, trust me, that's not far off the mark. That book, South from the Limpopo, began a great book love affair.)
If you have the good sense to read Murphy's book, you will find yourself asking, "Why have I never heard of her before?" I know, because that is exactly what I said. Silverland is her twenty-first of what is currently a twenty-three book tally. And she didn't start travelling or writing professionally until she turned thirty-two.
Murphy is not a typical travel writer. Her first journey, in 1963, took her from Ireland to India --- by bicycle. Later, she treks through the Andes with a mule --- and her nine year old daughter in tow. South from the Limpopo is a journey by bike more than 9,000 kilometres and through all nine provinces of South Africa --- during the tumult of post-apartheid democratic general elections. Silverland finds her travelling from Moscow to Siberia by slow train in the winter --- at age seventy-four.
Dervla boards this slow train in Moscow. Instead of the posher, faster Trans-Siberian, she chooses the Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM). She likes it "...partly because these trains' favourite speed is 20 m.p.h." For three months, she enjoys the company of her varied Russian co-riders and during stop-overs, she finds hospitality, as she always does, with generous and curious people that she has met along the way, or with hosts that have been recommended by friends. This way of staying lends all of Murphy's work an intimate look at local people and beliefs, but especially does in this area of the world where centralization has made independent voices rare.
A nature-lover and solitude-seeker, Murphy revels in the beauty of the taiga. "To the north, beyond gleaming white flatness, miles of coniferous forest stood out blackly against a curtain of molten gold ... while the slim clouds turned rosy, a weirdly static crimson orb remained poised above the trees, not sinking perceptibly. Then very, very, slowly it disappeared -- and a wondrously lingering red-gold suffusion tinged the whole landscape."
On a solo morning hike along a logging track near Lake Baikal, near the northern border of Mongolia, she meets a large brown bear. "Siberian bears like their meat and are six to seven feet tall when upright, a posture occasionally adopted to kill reindeer or people." Later, nearly back to Moscow again, she encounters a duo of human predators. "The driver leant out, still in his seat, and silently pointed a revolver at me -- the long sort, carried by Russian policemen." Her reactions to both, are classic Dervla moments, something you will come to love and appreciate as you read more of her wonderful books.
If you have the good sense to read Murphy's book, you will find yourself asking, "Why have I never heard of her before?" I know, because that is exactly what I said. Silverland is her twenty-first of what is currently a twenty-three book tally. And she didn't start travelling or writing professionally until she turned thirty-two.
Murphy is not a typical travel writer. Her first journey, in 1963, took her from Ireland to India --- by bicycle. Later, she treks through the Andes with a mule --- and her nine year old daughter in tow. South from the Limpopo is a journey by bike more than 9,000 kilometres and through all nine provinces of South Africa --- during the tumult of post-apartheid democratic general elections. Silverland finds her travelling from Moscow to Siberia by slow train in the winter --- at age seventy-four.
Dervla boards this slow train in Moscow. Instead of the posher, faster Trans-Siberian, she chooses the Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM). She likes it "...partly because these trains' favourite speed is 20 m.p.h." For three months, she enjoys the company of her varied Russian co-riders and during stop-overs, she finds hospitality, as she always does, with generous and curious people that she has met along the way, or with hosts that have been recommended by friends. This way of staying lends all of Murphy's work an intimate look at local people and beliefs, but especially does in this area of the world where centralization has made independent voices rare.
A nature-lover and solitude-seeker, Murphy revels in the beauty of the taiga. "To the north, beyond gleaming white flatness, miles of coniferous forest stood out blackly against a curtain of molten gold ... while the slim clouds turned rosy, a weirdly static crimson orb remained poised above the trees, not sinking perceptibly. Then very, very, slowly it disappeared -- and a wondrously lingering red-gold suffusion tinged the whole landscape."
On a solo morning hike along a logging track near Lake Baikal, near the northern border of Mongolia, she meets a large brown bear. "Siberian bears like their meat and are six to seven feet tall when upright, a posture occasionally adopted to kill reindeer or people." Later, nearly back to Moscow again, she encounters a duo of human predators. "The driver leant out, still in his seat, and silently pointed a revolver at me -- the long sort, carried by Russian policemen." Her reactions to both, are classic Dervla moments, something you will come to love and appreciate as you read more of her wonderful books.
November 17, 2018
This Irish babushka has my heart and forever loyalty in favorite-author-land. A 75 yr old woman backpacking through Russia without speaking an ounce of Russian, relying on friends and kind strangers is awesome. She has bicycle named Pushkin! She travels by trains like BAM and Trans-Siberian for days at stretch. Then, she professes a love for the outdoors and nature, and a disgust for urbanization and pollution so strong, it makes your heart swell with happiness just to read it. And then, she is an almost historian, chronicling the histories of forgotten populations, wars and brutalities. And she has a dry sense of humor and can laugh at herself. If she is not goals, I don't know what is!
On to the book, I discovered and traveled through a part of Russia I might never see in person. I have read about Siberia when I read about Stalin's gulags there, and Baikal when reading about Mongolia and steppes in my geography book. But a slice out of the days in the lives of indigenous populations like Ewenki and how they have been displaced from their traditional methods of living thanks to 'urbanization', the war prisoners that built the miles of BAM and yet have no recognition, histories of various towns and how they came to be, Amur and the cities on its length, Baikal and the towns polluting it , the long journeys through the Urals in the trains in peak winter with interesting conversations with locals and encounters with provodnistas - and so much more - I felt like I've traveled to Russia myself.
Even the anti-climactic way the book ends, with Pushkin in a train carriage instead of on the road - that suits the book.
The book is prose so simple, yet interesting to keep the book going even during the dry parts - very well written. Took me a while to get through only coz I wanted to savor this babushka!
On to the book, I discovered and traveled through a part of Russia I might never see in person. I have read about Siberia when I read about Stalin's gulags there, and Baikal when reading about Mongolia and steppes in my geography book. But a slice out of the days in the lives of indigenous populations like Ewenki and how they have been displaced from their traditional methods of living thanks to 'urbanization', the war prisoners that built the miles of BAM and yet have no recognition, histories of various towns and how they came to be, Amur and the cities on its length, Baikal and the towns polluting it , the long journeys through the Urals in the trains in peak winter with interesting conversations with locals and encounters with provodnistas - and so much more - I felt like I've traveled to Russia myself.
Even the anti-climactic way the book ends, with Pushkin in a train carriage instead of on the road - that suits the book.
The book is prose so simple, yet interesting to keep the book going even during the dry parts - very well written. Took me a while to get through only coz I wanted to savor this babushka!
May 16, 2008
I've been a fan of Dervla's for years, but was turned off by the politics in Embers of Chaos, about the 1990's Balkans. This one is a follow-up (not exactly a "sequel" as such) to her odyssey earlier this decade Through Siberia by Accident; I don't recall the specifics of that one, but came away feeling it was an improvement over Embers. Unfortunately, this one contains an overall negative tone, along with more-than-incidental smugness by the author. Second star added for the times she gets away from West-bashing, delving into the people and places as usual. Her earlier books have been great, so I'd advise reading this one after a couple of those and her first Siberian one, not on its own as an introduction to her as a writer.
January 16, 2019
It’s not often I leave a book before I’ve finished it but this one drove me up the wall. Murphy’s opinions are as forthright as they are judgemental and wouldn’t be out of place on a radio phone in. I can’t remember a book where I’ve found the author quite so condescending. If you want a good book on Siberia read Colin Thubron instead.
April 27, 2024
This is currently rated 3.75 stars on here, which I think is about right. Dervla indulged a few more of her anti-capitalist tangents than I would have liked, but everything else that her fans come for is well-represented here: Thoughtful interactions with locals; a high tolerance for discomfort; a sincere enthusiasm for exploration; and taking all kinds of setbacks cheerfully in stride.
June 20, 2020
Great curmudgeon author who mostly travels by train midwinter in Siberia. Great insights on Russia and a wonderful sense of humour. Loved it !
Currently reading
June 28, 2023p53
October 25, 2010
This book is about an Irish woman in her 70s and her journey through Siberia through train. I picked it up because I've always been really curious about Siberia; I pictured it as a barren wintry plain with nothing but snow in sight. So this was a good way to learn more about it (for example, about Siberia's indigenous people). It's also interesting to consider a travelogue from an older traveler's perspective. She's a leftie, but somewhat cranky at times, and she tends to beat people over the head with her political views, which was annoying even though I largely agree with her. But I give it 4 stars anyway because it's an accessible way to learn about Siberia.
--On approaching a place she had visited previously and had some affinity for: "while I gazed with affection at familiar landmarks my companions gazed with indifference at the town's unlovely suburbs." (p 39)
--On growing dependence on cars: "they're just addicted to 'freedom of movement'--independent movement in their own vehicle." (p 52)
--She quotes a fellow traveler with limited English: "In Khabarovsk an Englishman tells me how Vanino is made and then I see why these people are never happy. What is in my head is not easy to say. It is about feelings people have from where they live. Past times are not really past if a place was made only for bad reasons." (p 113)
--On meeting a stranger: "He stood beaming down at me and said, 'I know you! I saw a photo in Raisa's home in Irkutsk, you are her friend from Ireland and I am her cousin so now I am your friend!'" (p 198)
--On meeting a teacher with a goal: "to use the teaching of history to help schoolchildren to overcome their generation's particular heritage of post-Soviet uncertainty and unease. 'That will mean going back to their great-great-grandparents' Revolution-related traumas and self-deceits. Difficult! But as I see it, our future collective mental health needs an understanding of our whole past. How can we become a stable nation if we don't face past realities? Our children must get to know why we are where we are at this time.'" (p 228)
--Regarding Putin: "An admirable trait, loyalty, provided you can recognize those circumstances in which it ceases to be a virtue." (p 264)
--On approaching a place she had visited previously and had some affinity for: "while I gazed with affection at familiar landmarks my companions gazed with indifference at the town's unlovely suburbs." (p 39)
--On growing dependence on cars: "they're just addicted to 'freedom of movement'--independent movement in their own vehicle." (p 52)
--She quotes a fellow traveler with limited English: "In Khabarovsk an Englishman tells me how Vanino is made and then I see why these people are never happy. What is in my head is not easy to say. It is about feelings people have from where they live. Past times are not really past if a place was made only for bad reasons." (p 113)
--On meeting a stranger: "He stood beaming down at me and said, 'I know you! I saw a photo in Raisa's home in Irkutsk, you are her friend from Ireland and I am her cousin so now I am your friend!'" (p 198)
--On meeting a teacher with a goal: "to use the teaching of history to help schoolchildren to overcome their generation's particular heritage of post-Soviet uncertainty and unease. 'That will mean going back to their great-great-grandparents' Revolution-related traumas and self-deceits. Difficult! But as I see it, our future collective mental health needs an understanding of our whole past. How can we become a stable nation if we don't face past realities? Our children must get to know why we are where we are at this time.'" (p 228)
--Regarding Putin: "An admirable trait, loyalty, provided you can recognize those circumstances in which it ceases to be a virtue." (p 264)
April 8, 2013
This is an account of a journey from Moscow to the furthest reaches of Siberia undertaken in mid-Winter by the legendary traveller, Dervla Murphy at the age of 75. Her lively and somewhat gloomy descriptions of the towns and villages and general state of the country does not encourage the reader to repeat the experience, particularly as much of the natural beauty is being devastated by pollution - but I was surprised later at seeing stunning photos of Lake Baikal.She is at her best when describing the people she meets who offer her kindnesses and their life stories. She is quite intrepid - being robbed by latter-day bandits on her solo cycle ride and narrowly avoiding a close encounter with a 7 foot bear. On the whole a good read, but she is perhaps a little too inclined in this book to digress.
October 19, 2012
A bit heavy reading due to her style but I am glad I stuck at it because she really understands the country she visits and it gave me a good understanding through Russia's history why it is in the current state it is. Dervla also has some really great encounters and adventures which were exciting and interesting and at times a bit worrisome.
July 16, 2015
I found the travel writing interesting; meeting so many people, the descriptions of the wild landscapes and wild animals, the friendliness encountered in Siberia. A really interesting look into those peoples lives that seem so remote.
I was less entranced by the left-wing political idealism being espoused.
I was less entranced by the left-wing political idealism being espoused.
November 20, 2011
I didn't finish this - it was like spending time with a boring old F**T. Lots to complain about, but very little suggestion as to how things might be improved.I'd rather spend my reading time with people who do things and have some spirit about them.
unfinished
June 5, 2009Will probably pick it up again eventually. Am obviously in the wrong mood for it - and anyway, I don't have plans to cycle in Russia.
Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews