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Edith Head: The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer
The definitive history of Hollywood's most legendary costume designer, featuring an insightful biography and previously unseen sketches, ephemera, and photos behind the scenes of hundreds of iconic films.
All About Eve. Funny Face. Sunset Blvd. Rear Window. Sabrina. A Place in the Sun. The Ten Commandments. Scores of cinema classics of the last century had one thing in Edith Head (1897-1981). She racked up an unprecedented 35 Oscar nods and 400 film credits over the course of a fifty-year career, and changed the fashion world forever with her timeless creations that continue to resonate and inspire present-day designers, fashion followers, and film-lovers.
Edith Head is the definitive portrait of the most influential costume designer of the twentieth century. Within these pages, historian, photographer, and collector Jay Jorgensen brings together rare, never-before-seen sketches, fabric samples, costume tests, and behind-the-scenes photos from the Edith Head Archives. Thoroughly researched and masterfully produced, the book features quotes and anecdotes from some of the silver screen’s biggest stars, among them Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Fontaine, Audrey Hepburn, and Bette Davis. It documents Head’s career stitch-by-stitch, from the 1930s Westerns to the classic All About Eve , Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds , and beyond. Jorgenson also chronicles the star designer’s personal life, from her mysterious childhood to the controversial portfolio that landed her first job in a movie costume department and on to legendary status.
Edith Head captures the politics of Hollywood, the golden era of studios and starlets, the designer’s ongoing battles with the censors over hemlines, and her unyielding dedication to the craft. Stunningly illustrated with more than 350 images, Head’s legacy lives on in this lavish and comprehensive volume.
All About Eve. Funny Face. Sunset Blvd. Rear Window. Sabrina. A Place in the Sun. The Ten Commandments. Scores of cinema classics of the last century had one thing in Edith Head (1897-1981). She racked up an unprecedented 35 Oscar nods and 400 film credits over the course of a fifty-year career, and changed the fashion world forever with her timeless creations that continue to resonate and inspire present-day designers, fashion followers, and film-lovers.
Edith Head is the definitive portrait of the most influential costume designer of the twentieth century. Within these pages, historian, photographer, and collector Jay Jorgensen brings together rare, never-before-seen sketches, fabric samples, costume tests, and behind-the-scenes photos from the Edith Head Archives. Thoroughly researched and masterfully produced, the book features quotes and anecdotes from some of the silver screen’s biggest stars, among them Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Fontaine, Audrey Hepburn, and Bette Davis. It documents Head’s career stitch-by-stitch, from the 1930s Westerns to the classic All About Eve , Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds , and beyond. Jorgenson also chronicles the star designer’s personal life, from her mysterious childhood to the controversial portfolio that landed her first job in a movie costume department and on to legendary status.
Edith Head captures the politics of Hollywood, the golden era of studios and starlets, the designer’s ongoing battles with the censors over hemlines, and her unyielding dedication to the craft. Stunningly illustrated with more than 350 images, Head’s legacy lives on in this lavish and comprehensive volume.
400 pages, Paperback
First published October 5, 2010
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews
September 26, 2019
This isn't something I would normally read, but Edith Head's name had popped up a couple of times in some other books relating to western film, so I thought I would check it out. I have to admit that I almost gave up as soon as I saw the book, but eventually reasoned that toting the monstrous thing about would be a good workout.
I was surprised to find Edith Head's story to be quite engaging. She was barely qualified for the designing profession and her sketching was less than superb, but she managed to get a position at the top of the industry and consolidate her position there. There is a fair amount of biographical info on Edith, just enough to whet your appetite for more. Probably just as interesting are the details pertaining to costume design...it had really never occurred to me (who fancies himself a cinephile) that the costumes and fashions worn by actors in the movies were original design pieces. Certainly I knew that things like gladiators' uniforms couldn't be bought off the shelf but when I saw Karen Steele's ample bosom straining against the buttons of her plaid shirt it never occurred to me that the shirt, and several like it, had probably been designed specifically for the movie part. In fact, some of the studio creations were so perfect that the actresses would buy them from the studio after shooting was over. Original creations for movie costumes were the norm for movies even after the advent of television.
This book is richly illustrated with photos and fashion sketches. It's not really a "man's" book, because, guys, you'll be required to negotiate passages like this from page 72:
Edith went all out with Mary's wardrobe, which included several extraordinary designs including, an evening gown of blue tulle edged in silver, with nosegays of sweetheart roses and forget-me-nots, accented with pale blue opera gloves and a flowered fan; a tailored suit of French blue broadcloth with sleeves and collar trimmed in mink, with a picture hat of of blue velvet and silk, accented by deep red velvet posies with chin-streamers to match; a skirt of blue viscose taffeta with circular flounces, topped by a blouse of pink mousseline...".
So. Not a guy book. I don't know what most of those things are, and hope I never do.
That brings me to my major issue with the book. This guy Jay does a pretty good job of gathering photos and drawings together. He researches the story. He even goes so far as to learn how to spell words like "mousseline" and "taffeta"...hell, he might even know what they mean! Then he gets it published....and can't be bothered to proofread or edit the bloody thing. There are errors or typos on every page practically, at least the pages with printing on them. This is arguably a fashion book but he couldn't even spell the word ("fasion" on p. 130). Hell, he couldn't even get the names of the actors right, introducing us to Gary Copper on p. 101, Ernest Hemmingway on p. 102, and Joan Fonatine on p. 166. The sloppiness probably cost the book a star in my estimation.
Edith Head was nominated for an entire pickup load of Oscars, at least three nominations on one award night. She won quite a few of these, I believe as many as eight in total, really a great career. I found it interesting to run her name on Youtube, where you can see several videos of her to watch as an accompaniment to the book. Not my normal reading fare, but I'm not sorry that I read it.
I was surprised to find Edith Head's story to be quite engaging. She was barely qualified for the designing profession and her sketching was less than superb, but she managed to get a position at the top of the industry and consolidate her position there. There is a fair amount of biographical info on Edith, just enough to whet your appetite for more. Probably just as interesting are the details pertaining to costume design...it had really never occurred to me (who fancies himself a cinephile) that the costumes and fashions worn by actors in the movies were original design pieces. Certainly I knew that things like gladiators' uniforms couldn't be bought off the shelf but when I saw Karen Steele's ample bosom straining against the buttons of her plaid shirt it never occurred to me that the shirt, and several like it, had probably been designed specifically for the movie part. In fact, some of the studio creations were so perfect that the actresses would buy them from the studio after shooting was over. Original creations for movie costumes were the norm for movies even after the advent of television.
This book is richly illustrated with photos and fashion sketches. It's not really a "man's" book, because, guys, you'll be required to negotiate passages like this from page 72:
Edith went all out with Mary's wardrobe, which included several extraordinary designs including, an evening gown of blue tulle edged in silver, with nosegays of sweetheart roses and forget-me-nots, accented with pale blue opera gloves and a flowered fan; a tailored suit of French blue broadcloth with sleeves and collar trimmed in mink, with a picture hat of of blue velvet and silk, accented by deep red velvet posies with chin-streamers to match; a skirt of blue viscose taffeta with circular flounces, topped by a blouse of pink mousseline...".
So. Not a guy book. I don't know what most of those things are, and hope I never do.
That brings me to my major issue with the book. This guy Jay does a pretty good job of gathering photos and drawings together. He researches the story. He even goes so far as to learn how to spell words like "mousseline" and "taffeta"...hell, he might even know what they mean! Then he gets it published....and can't be bothered to proofread or edit the bloody thing. There are errors or typos on every page practically, at least the pages with printing on them. This is arguably a fashion book but he couldn't even spell the word ("fasion" on p. 130). Hell, he couldn't even get the names of the actors right, introducing us to Gary Copper on p. 101, Ernest Hemmingway on p. 102, and Joan Fonatine on p. 166. The sloppiness probably cost the book a star in my estimation.
Edith Head was nominated for an entire pickup load of Oscars, at least three nominations on one award night. She won quite a few of these, I believe as many as eight in total, really a great career. I found it interesting to run her name on Youtube, where you can see several videos of her to watch as an accompaniment to the book. Not my normal reading fare, but I'm not sorry that I read it.
April 25, 2012
Although this book did offer a certain amount of insight into the life and character of the immortal Edith Head, I wouldn't suggest reading it for the text. Not only is it just one long recounting of dates, quotes, and costume descriptions, but it was riddled with typos.
Instead, read this book for the photographs. Edith Head clothed the most talented, the best looking, the most iconic figures in Hollywood, and the gowns and stars are all here: Barbara Stanwyck, Bette Davis, Carole Lombard, Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Mae West, Olivia de Havilland, Veronica Lake, Gloria Swanson, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, and the list goes on for ages. Yes, she was insecure, overbearing, ambitious, and self-promoting, but love her or hate her, it's impossible to overstate her influence on classic Hollywood costuming. And now, I've been inspired to revisit some of my favorite classic films that, it turns out, Edith did the design for. (Or at least got the credit!)
Instead, read this book for the photographs. Edith Head clothed the most talented, the best looking, the most iconic figures in Hollywood, and the gowns and stars are all here: Barbara Stanwyck, Bette Davis, Carole Lombard, Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Mae West, Olivia de Havilland, Veronica Lake, Gloria Swanson, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, and the list goes on for ages. Yes, she was insecure, overbearing, ambitious, and self-promoting, but love her or hate her, it's impossible to overstate her influence on classic Hollywood costuming. And now, I've been inspired to revisit some of my favorite classic films that, it turns out, Edith did the design for. (Or at least got the credit!)
March 6, 2023
If there were an emotion beyond disappointment this book would be that. I am okay with the listing of every film she has designed for. I am not okay with one also painstakingly describing every garment and having limited photos. I was 30% done with the book and wanted to not finish it, but since this is a bit of research for me, I decided to finish it.
First: Why was this book so long and boring?
Second: If you know you are putting limited photos and illustrations in a book such as this, why would you pick ones she didn't design?
Third: Why was this book so scant on photos and illustrations?
Fourth: There was way to many details of some of the stars life. It's like.. I am not reading this book to see who was having an affair.
What I think should be different : The films she designed for should be a section with of course the title, and photo or illustration of the garment/ garments. This would have cleared up some space to go into more detail about her important works and life. Its weird reading this, I feel like I know of her but I truly don't know who she was
Despite all that you do learn things about Edith, she was a shrewd businesswomen and she had no problem with taking credit for Givenchy's work. Probably due to resentment that he got to design on some of the films she wanted.
If I had bought this book for the asking price of$56 and not got it on kindle for around $11. I would FOR SURE be returning it. ewwwwwwwwwwwww. I absolutely hate when authors do a disservice to one of my favorite designers.
First: Why was this book so long and boring?
Second: If you know you are putting limited photos and illustrations in a book such as this, why would you pick ones she didn't design?
Third: Why was this book so scant on photos and illustrations?
Fourth: There was way to many details of some of the stars life. It's like.. I am not reading this book to see who was having an affair.
What I think should be different : The films she designed for should be a section with of course the title, and photo or illustration of the garment/ garments. This would have cleared up some space to go into more detail about her important works and life. Its weird reading this, I feel like I know of her but I truly don't know who she was
Despite all that you do learn things about Edith, she was a shrewd businesswomen and she had no problem with taking credit for Givenchy's work. Probably due to resentment that he got to design on some of the films she wanted.
If I had bought this book for the asking price of$56 and not got it on kindle for around $11. I would FOR SURE be returning it. ewwwwwwwwwwwww. I absolutely hate when authors do a disservice to one of my favorite designers.
November 6, 2017
I loved, loved, loved this biography of Edith Head, Oscar-winning costume and fashion designer, told through the movies she worked on and the stars she clothed throughout her career. What prompted me to check this book out of the library was reading two really fun mysteries featuring Edith Head as part of a sleuthing duo in late 1930's Hollywood - Design for Dying and Dangerous to Know. I thought for sure that I would just thumb through the delicious photos, but I got caught up in her story and that of classic Hollywood movies and stars.
If I were giving this a star rating based on the writing and editing it would get 1 star. So many typos (Gary Copper, anyone?), paragraphs ending in mid-sentence and non-sequiturs from paragraph to paragraph. But I wasn't critiquing this based on the writing, but of the luscious photos and the wonderful story of Edith and Hollywood. She was a one-of-a-kind.
If I were giving this a star rating based on the writing and editing it would get 1 star. So many typos (Gary Copper, anyone?), paragraphs ending in mid-sentence and non-sequiturs from paragraph to paragraph. But I wasn't critiquing this based on the writing, but of the luscious photos and the wonderful story of Edith and Hollywood. She was a one-of-a-kind.
October 11, 2023
I love reading books about major figures in film history who are not necessarily actors, directors, or producers. The crew does a bulk of the work for the film and costume design is by far my favorite part of watching movies. The costume and wardrobe department provides us with the literal look and upkeep of the film. You think of iconic pieces of clothing throughout cinema history like Dorothy's red shoes in The Wizard of Oz or Audrey Hepburn's little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Edith Head is by far the most prolific costume designer of all time. She had a 50+ year career during the most iconic period of American cinema, Classic Hollywood aka The Golden Age of Hollywood. This book by Jay Jorgensen details her life growing up in Nevada to her hundreds of contracts throughout 50 years in Hollywood. It details her rise to the top and gives us lots of fun anecdotes about her life. For example, she stole sketches from students to put in a portfolio for her first Hollywood job interview. She confessed to the theft early on and was told to get to drawing. She even lied about her sewing abilities so she wouldn't have to spend hours sewing.
As someone with an interest in fashion and movies, costume design seems like an obvious interest of mine because so much of Edith Head's legacy intersects with fashion history. Edith Head worked closely with Hubert de Givenchy on films like Breakfast at Tiffany's and Sabrina. While Edith Head's specialty is largely considered to be 30s and 40s fashion, she designed and supervised costume departments well into the 1970s. She has 35 Academy Award nominations and won eight of them, making her the most awarded woman in the Academy's history. Honestly, I could go on about Edith Head and this book. She is a huge inspiration to me and others who believe in glamour at all times and that modesty is a waste.
As someone with an interest in fashion and movies, costume design seems like an obvious interest of mine because so much of Edith Head's legacy intersects with fashion history. Edith Head worked closely with Hubert de Givenchy on films like Breakfast at Tiffany's and Sabrina. While Edith Head's specialty is largely considered to be 30s and 40s fashion, she designed and supervised costume departments well into the 1970s. She has 35 Academy Award nominations and won eight of them, making her the most awarded woman in the Academy's history. Honestly, I could go on about Edith Head and this book. She is a huge inspiration to me and others who believe in glamour at all times and that modesty is a waste.
June 30, 2011
I didn't borrow this book to read the biography--I borrowed it to peruse the photos of iconic stars and their most famous movie costumes. It didn't disappoint, this is the kind of art book that can't be kindleized.
It is a shame I can't see any photograph of Edith Head now and not think of Edna Mode in the Incredibles.
The biography was a thourough filmography. I wished it would have been designed to map to the photos so I could dip in an out. (See the photo, read the caption, read what Edna thought of that star) Instead I had to sometimes result to the index to find the cooresponding information.
But if you are a film and fashion buff, or love reading about the Golden Age of Hollywood, this book is a must have for your shelf.
It is a shame I can't see any photograph of Edith Head now and not think of Edna Mode in the Incredibles.
The biography was a thourough filmography. I wished it would have been designed to map to the photos so I could dip in an out. (See the photo, read the caption, read what Edna thought of that star) Instead I had to sometimes result to the index to find the cooresponding information.
But if you are a film and fashion buff, or love reading about the Golden Age of Hollywood, this book is a must have for your shelf.
April 9, 2011
Sometimes, I simply like to look at beautiful things, and Edith Head certainly designed beautiful things. I skimmed through the text, picking out stories that interested me, but, primarily, I looked at the sketches and photographs of 50 years of costume design.
An interesting tidbit for you: Edith Head rarely used patterns and kept her designs conservative (as in not "fashion of the moment") because she did not want the stars to appear out of date by the time the movies were released, which was often a year after filming.
An interesting tidbit for you: Edith Head rarely used patterns and kept her designs conservative (as in not "fashion of the moment") because she did not want the stars to appear out of date by the time the movies were released, which was often a year after filming.
December 28, 2013
Not the first, nor the last, reviewer to admit that I "read" this book to peruse the sketches, photographs, and costume art created or collaborated on by Edith Head. I was originally inspired to get my hands on this book after seeing Ms. Head's Google Doodle (sad, I know). Therefore, the relative lack of actual biographical information on Ms. Head (at least, for the size of the book) didn't deter me that much. I very much enjoyed the photography and costumes, though, and wish there had been more. A very impressive career, overall.
July 1, 2013
For the size and weight of this coffee table book, I think they could have included more sketches, behind-the-scenes photos and stories, and movie photos from the 400+ movies Edith Head got film credit for as the costume designer. But, if you can find a way to hold the book, the photos are fantastic! 8 Academy Awards...most for any woman, ever. Not bad for a little girl who grew up in Searchlight, NV.
September 24, 2010
Gorgeous coffee table book about Hollywood's most famous and brilliant costume designer. This book is filled with fabulous pictures of Head's designs, beautiful movie stars, and lots of shots of the designer herself. She was a true eccentric in terms of her own style, so it's great to see the ensembles she puts together for just lounging around the house (when there are cameras present, anyway).
October 29, 2011
A very enjoyable read about an interesting woman. I'd hoped to learn more about the creative process as practiced by this designer, but nonetheless couldn't wait for another moment to keep on reading.
August 8, 2012
An interesting, photo-rich book on the work of Edith Head over a 50-year period with lots of little behind the scenes stories and trivia. Well worthwhile for anyone interested in vintage film, or in fashion.
July 23, 2017
Very interesting book but the formatting of this book is a nightmare!! Full of typos, run-on words, photos split in between pages, etc. I am reading the kindle version via my local library. I wonder if the hardcopy book is just as bad? Shame. Edith Head deserves better.
March 9, 2018
Fascinating biography of the legend Edith Head, who was probably the most influential costume designer ever in Hollywood. This book includes lots of photos, but also gives insight into her personal life.
January 3, 2011
Amazing book with gorgeous photos of Hollywood royalty. Some of the best design and costuming ever seen on film.
February 22, 2011
What an amazing designer and and interesting life!
July 28, 2011
I wanted many more pictures of the outfits!
October 5, 2011
If you're into vintage fashion or vintage Hollywood, this is a book you would probably enjoy. Edith......you're still winning over new fans!
December 26, 2011
An amazing and inspiring read!
Read
January 1, 2012Christmas present!
October 7, 2012
Fascinating chronology of Edith Head's career, including photos and design sketches.
December 29, 2015
Every time I saw the Oscars at a young age Edith Head was nominated for costume design and she won a lot also. She was a pure genius in costume design.
January 28, 2020
Edith Head: The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer by Jay Jorgensen recounts the complete history of Edith Head and her work in Hollywood as a treasured costume designer. The book contains an introduction by Sandy Powell.
This book contains many beautiful photos and sketches of Edith’s designs for countless stars. It was cool to read how different stars interacted with her.
I will point out that I read the Kindle version, which is very difficultly formatted and contains many typos, so it was a bit harder to enjoy it as much as I would normally.
This book contains many beautiful photos and sketches of Edith’s designs for countless stars. It was cool to read how different stars interacted with her.
I will point out that I read the Kindle version, which is very difficultly formatted and contains many typos, so it was a bit harder to enjoy it as much as I would normally.
January 3, 2023
Interesting
If you love fashion and\or movies, this is the book for you. It has lots of photos and sketched of Edith Heads designs. I would have given it 5 stars but didn't because it's poorly written and full of typos.
If you love fashion and\or movies, this is the book for you. It has lots of photos and sketched of Edith Heads designs. I would have given it 5 stars but didn't because it's poorly written and full of typos.
October 4, 2023
This book is nothing but telling what Head designed for whom and when, for which studio she was working at that time, and who the important people on each film were. Almost 800 pages long, this was one I couldn't force myself to finish reading.
March 5, 2020
Pros: What a fantastic book. The photos, the stories and the layout of this book is fantastic! Live that a recipe Edith used to make for guests was included.
Cons: Nothing
Cover Art: 5 out of 5!
Cons: Nothing
Cover Art: 5 out of 5!
January 23, 2022
More of a coffee table book but sheer heaven
May 5, 2022
It’s more about the clothes than Edith Head herself. Still a nice read.
January 18, 2024
Super sloppy mismatch of photos to the pages describing certain costumes or actresses. Constantly flipping around was an exercise in frustration.
January 19, 2024
A good overview of Edith Head's incredible career.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews