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சீனா: விலகும் திரை

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நீங்கள் இந்தியாவில் வசிக்க விரும்புகிறீர்களா அல்லது சீனாவிலா? ஏழையாக இருந்தால் சீனாவில் வசிக்கவே விரும்புவேன்.கொஞ்சம் வசதி வாய்ப்புகள் இருந்தால், இந்தியாதான். கட்டுப்பாடு, குழப்பம், புதுமை, பழமை, வறுமை, செல்வம், நல்லது, கெட்டது. கலந்து புகையும் வெடி மருந்து சீனா. இந்தியாவிடம் இருந்து சீனாவும், சீனாவிடம் இருந்து இந்தியாவும் கற்றுக்கொள்வதற்கு நிறைய விஷயங்கள் உள்ளன. ஒன்றின் பலம், மற்றொன்றின் பலவீனம். இங்கே ஜனநாயகம் உண்டு. ஆனால், மோசமான ஆட்சிமுறை. சீனாவில் ஜனநாயகத்தைப் பலியிட்ட பிறகுதான் முன்னேற்றங்கள் சாத்தியமாகியிருக்கின்றன. எனில் எது சரியானது? வளர்ச்சி குறைபாட்டுடன் கூடிய ஜனநாயகமா அல்லது ஜனநாயகம் இல்லாத வளர்ச்சியா? தி ஹிந்து பத்திரிக்கையின் பெய்ஜிங் நிருபராகப் பணியாற்றிய பல்லவி அய்யர், சீனாவின் இதயத்துடிப்பை ஐந்தாண்டு காலம் அருகில் இருந்து கவனித்து நேரடி அனுபவங்களின் மூலம் இந்நூலை உருவாக்கியிருக்கிறார்கள். ஒரு பயண நூலாக மட்டும் இல்லாமல், சமகால சீனாவின் சரித்திரம், அரசியல், கலாச்சாரம், சாதனைகள், சவால்கள், சர்ச்சைகள் என்று பலவற்றை படம்பிடிக்கும் இந்நூல், சீனாவையும் இந்தியாவையும் பல விஷயங்களில் ஒப்பிட்டு புதிய வெளிச்சங்களை அளிக்கிறது.

359 pages, Paperback

First published September 30, 2008

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Pallavi Aiyar

12 books60 followers

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews
Profile Image for Christine.
184 reviews285 followers
September 24, 2018
As a Malaysian living in China whose first (and most fluent) language is English, it is somewhat frustrating when most of the modern China expat memoirs available to me come from a Western perspective. While Peter Hessler (River Town), John Pomfret (Chinese Lessons), Michael Levy (Kosher Chinese), Rob Gifford (China Road), and Mike Meyer (The Last Days of Old Beijing) rank among my favorite authors who blend personal experience with thoughtful analysis of the country, I am always aware that, as Western men, their China experiences vary greatly from mine. Likewise, even with the great Leslie Chang (Factory Girls) and Jan Wong, I still feel that cultural gap, as they are Chinese American and Chinese Canadian respectively, with the developed West as their point of reference. Sometimes you just want to read a China memoir that corresponds to your own thoughts and experiences, you know?

It was in these circumstances that I was absolutely delighted to discover Indian writer Pallavi Aiyar's 'Smoke and Mirrors.' Aiyar came to China in 2002 to be with her Spanish Sinophile boyfriend, and what was supposed to be a short affair turned into a 5-year relationship with the country. She learned Chinese and became a foreign correspondent writing for an Indian audience, and I appreciated the use of India as her basis of comparison. India is not Malaysia, but both are developing countries in Asia, and thus I found myself laughing and nodding in understanding when she initially dismisses her American colleague's concerns about a flu-like virus (a.k.a. SARS) as "the overblown paranoia of a westerner. As an Indian, viruses and bacteria held no special dread for me." (When I arrived in China, I too rolled my eyes at my Western friends' horror at dirt and germs and squat toilets.) I loved reading about how Chinese people reacted to her, some even singing snippets of Hindi songs from old movies - I had no idea that Indian movies had been such big hits in Mao's China. Most fascinating, however, was Aiyar's perspectives on poverty in both countries, and her conclusion that it is better to be poor in China than India, as in the authoritarian former, there is greater social mobility, and little of the kind of poverty that "numbs the heart and slams the gut."

I do wish she had shared more about herself. I wanted to know about her life with Julio, their Indian-Spanish interracial relationship and what it was like having a baby in China, how she found her samosa-making ayi, whether racism was ever a real issue for her (early on, she writes that a student refers to her as "a little black"). But that's a whole other book I suppose!

Profile Image for Uma.
94 reviews16 followers
December 8, 2008
A very interesting book on living in China. As a frequent traveler to Beijing, I could identify with many of the statements in the book, though I really cannot compare visiting Beijing once in three months for a week, to living there for five years.

Thank you Pallavi for the book.

I enjoyed the unbiased view of the life in Beijing and its comparison to India. I enjoyed the statement "If I was born in a middle class or above kinda family, I would prefer to be in India. If I was in a poor family, I would rather be born in China."... When I read about the dignity of labour, I was thinking of my friend in the hotel I stay in, and she is the "cleaning lady"... She always has a friendly smile and a wave for me everyday I meet her. She cannot speak English and I cannot speak Mandarin, but we manage to bring a smile to each other's faces. :-)

Another thing that is brilliant are the signs on the roads and the transliterations... This time, I along with my colleagues had gone to meet a Chinese friend of ours in another hotel where he works. We went to the reception and we were told to wait in the rest room and X would be with us. :-) Our minds were put to rest :-) when we were shown the room, that was the waiting room...
Profile Image for Srinath.
54 reviews15 followers
May 29, 2013
Book: Smoke and Mirrors by Pallavi Aiyer
"The two countries were like mirror opposites of each other. One provided roads, schools and electricity but stifled diversity, criticism and participation; the other allowed diversity, criticism and participation, yet achieved little in improving livelihoods and providing economic opportunities." (page 234)

This is probably the view that most of us Indians already have about India and China. Pallavi Aiyer's book brings home this same fact in a much nuanced and yet poignant way. The perspective is entirely an Indian one. This trained journalist desists from making quick judgements about what she observes. The restraint and the wisdom show through in each and every page.

Smoke and Mirrors is a memoir, a travelogue and a political analysis all combined into one book. The political aspect holds much significance for us Indians. While India has experienced much success as a political democracy in the last six decades, it has also faced enormous challenges in becoming a social democracy. In the last two decades, economic growth has brought with it inequity and resentment in large sections of society in India.

While India talks about "inclusive growth" to achieve social stability, China even with its spectacular economic success has to safeguard political stability. China's arrangement certainly has worked well so far in terms of poverty reduction and brought in great material prosperity. But such prosperity has come at the cost of personal liberty for the people.

"China's economic achievement over the last thirty or so years may have been unparallelled historically, but so was India's political feat. Its democracy was almost unique amongst post-colonial states not simply for its existence but its existence against all odds in a country held together not by geography, language or ethnicity but by an idea." (page 242)

It is amazing how Pallavi Aiyer manages to find a way to be fair and loyal to both her native country and to the one that she has adopted for the period of five years. What impresses is not just her loyalty to the two countries but also the wise analysis she provides of the strengths and weaknesses of both the countries. In Chapter 12, titled 'Squaring the Circle and Coming Full Circle' the author provides a good perspective on the good and the bad from the two countries.

While she remarks that "maintaining a one-party system subject to the rule of the law was probably a project that would always remain incomplete" in China, she also points out that "India's democracy was far from being a fully actualized ideal".(page 256)

You can't help but nod in agreement when the author summarizes her impressions on the politics of the two countries thus- " democracy was often used as an excuse in India to justify bad governance, just as India's democracy was used as an excuse in China to carry on with its (relatively) efficient one-party dictatorship. India was the example of choice in China when it came to pointing out the pitfalls of democracy, while in India those who admired China's achievements simultaneously bemoaned the fact that they could come only at the cost of democracy." (page 257)

Well, the political angle apart, there is much in this book to ponder and wonder about. The author's experience as an English teacher, her life in a hutong, the trip to Lhasa, all these sections are delightful. Reading these sections certainly makes one wish to experience China. The language impediment that the author manages to overcome definitely is one herculean challenge for anyone wanting to take on the middle kingdom. One other thing to notice in the narration is the fact that curiosity in India about China is of a much higher order than in China about India.

At the end of reading this book, the perception about China is bound to change from one of 'smoke and mirrors' to a 'much clearer mirror reflection'.

http://roots-n-wings.blogspot.in/
Profile Image for Bigsna.
366 reviews8 followers
August 15, 2012
Eye opening account of a journalist's 5 year stay in China.
China has always seemed like a mystic unknown territory to me - and reading this book reinforced that feeling of mysticism a little more - but also allowed me to understand the country better.

Some suspicions confirmed, some dispelled and many new things to ponder on. Again having Google as an extension to the book for further reading was a big boon. Reading more on "the cultural revolution" , "mao zedong", "the naming of the 11th panchem lama", "the qinghai-lhasa rail link", etc. definitely enhanced my theoretical perspective.

The author's constant comparison with India (which sees China as the example it wants to emulate) is very interesting but it also draws out the stark differences in the two countries. By the end of it, I thought that the only thing that makes India feel like it should be related to China was the population size and at some point in history the "developing nation" status.

After reading the book there are a couple of things that stand out for me:
1. the law of "when in rome do as the romans do" completely applies here. even for the romans!
2. the authoritarian regime of the CCP that surprisingly still holds strong - and will need to if it wants to remain in power.
3. taking a trip on the Qinghai-Lhasa rail link is now on my bucket list
4. so is a trip to Lhasa and the Namtso and Qinghai lakes

A must read for anyone who is curious about China in recent times - the book chronicles the author's experience from 2002 - 2007.

Profile Image for Rishi Prakash.
383 reviews28 followers
December 16, 2011
China is an enigma for most of the Indians. Pallavi has just unraveled a small part of it by narrating her experience after staying in Beijing for 5 years.
Pallavi’s book provides a highly sensitive look at China; she is circumspect in her remarks on all that economic development has wrought there, particularly on religious rights and human rights in general, and on the rhythm of daily life as she perceived it.She constantly compares China with India, sparing neither their abject failings. Her scrupulous attention to considering every issue from many angles precludes categorical conclusions.
Pallavi tackles one question at length: “If I could choose, would I rather be born Indian or Chinese?”She says “…were I to be able to ensure being born even moderately well-off, I would probably plump for India over China. … On the other hand, were I to be born poor, I would take my chances in authoritarian China, where despite lacking a vote, the likelihood of my being decently fed, clothed and housed [is] considerably higher. Most crucially, China would present me with relatively greater opportunities for upward social mobility.”
Profile Image for thinkingape.
36 reviews12 followers
May 14, 2014
With my broken English thus I write, I agree almost 100% with the writer's criticism of China's political structure and I also find it disheartening, as a Chinese that somehow some party managed to manufacture to a large extent homogeneous ideas regarding subjects such as " foreign invasion"," Tibet" etc etc. Every time I read about people lost their land to " progress" defined by the government I feel such an immense urge to push for political reform to transform China into a law governed land because we cannot take it anymore.

In her comparison between China and India,however, she emphasizes on India's diversity and democracy over China's "prosperity" and "speed". It just keeps me wondering, is diversity and democracy ends or means to something else? What good is democracy if it cannot lift so many poor people out of poverty or move India forward as a country? What good is diversity if the Hindus fear marrying Muslim( in the sense that true they coexist yet do not mingle)??
Profile Image for Vivek Padiyan.
31 reviews1 follower
May 23, 2020
Gives you a first hand Indian perspective of what it's like to experience China. The book is as much a travelogue as it is a political/cultural commentary on the differences between the two countries - so makes for an easy read. Those who find China mysterious and fascinating at the same time and are looking to get started on knowing more about what life is like on the other side of Himalayas, this could be your gateway! Strict recommended for a casual read.
Profile Image for Anushree Rastogi.
114 reviews65 followers
June 13, 2022
The book was interesting - left me with a lot of information on China that is not easy to come by as outsider. However, I felt in a few places, the writing could have been more objective. Ms. Aiyar seems to compare Delhi as the benchmark for all Indian experiences which seems narrow. She seems to judge a lot of practices as black and white without understanding that it's just a way of life for people. For example food habits, religious practices, etc.
Profile Image for Lit Bug (Foram).
160 reviews498 followers
January 18, 2013
It is a wonderful book, exploring not just China, but the differences between India and China, in a very objective manner... Makes me want to go to China. Not just a travelogue, or a memoir, but a commentary on politics and culture too... Very analytical, very interesting and engrossing, one of my favorite books ever....
Profile Image for Kshitiz Goliya.
119 reviews8 followers
July 27, 2024
The world has a lot of opinions about China and some people earn a living out of it. Pallavi Aiyer doesn't claim to be an expert and lets her learn and explore one of the world's most ancient civilizations that was emerging from half a century of non stop social engineering.
From a novice with no knowledge of Mandarin to an interlocutor for an Indian business organisation, she spent five years learning and getting into the flow of an economy that was changing rapidly.
The fact that she is an Indian adds that an important reference point both for Indian traders as well as for global ones interested in understanding the difference between the world's two emerging superpowers.
Aiyar asks very relevant questions and tries to answer them without getting into the trap of reaching a final conclusion. She lets herself and the readers wondering after providing very deep perspectives.
What makes the book different from various other analysis of China is that instead of relying on statistics and cryptic party diktats, she gets her answers from people themsleves. Who can be a better source to get a glimpse of a country than its common citizens who are being directly impacted by its government's policies. While a lot of them give politically correct answers, Aiyar does a good job of putting them in the right context.
The book is also interesting for present times as it was written during the reign of Hu Jintao when China was ready to burst open on the world stage through Beijing Olympics.
The vision that it evoked then stands in sharp contrast to Xi Jinping's policies, which have pushed the country on the path of isolation and confrontation with the West and perhaps even East, considering the billigrent South China Sea claims.
Finally, Aiyar is a great writer and she holds your attention right till the end. In the last chapters, her monologue gets a bit boring but considering the fun and engaging read that the whole book is, I wouldn't mind it.
I would also highly recommend her book on Japan, which follows the same pattern and leaves you wanting for more.
I have already started on her book on Indonesia and am pretty sure I won't be disappointed.
197 reviews19 followers
May 2, 2018
I'm not the type that can talk hours about geopolitics and international relations. I wish I was, but the sad truth is I'm woefully ignorant about important international relations - I mean I'm aware of the basics but my knowledge has no nuance. However, I'm quite aware politically, economically and socially, atleast domestic issues. My interest extends to China - the country holds anenigmatic charm and interest for me. Though I read this book ten years after it was published, I thoroughly enjoyed it for its sharp insights, forthcoming socio-economic analyses. Not on e does it bore you, mixing up reportage with personal. I love this author's style and I think it is one that's
Widely likeable. Read!
Profile Image for Smitha Murthy.
Author 2 books419 followers
June 13, 2014
Books on China are churned out with a regularity that matches the sweatshops that churn out socks in Wenzhou. Yet Smoke And Mirrors by one of India's most respected journalists, Pallavi Aiyar was different. For starters, it offered neither a Chinese or Western perspective but an Indian one.

Having lived in China myself for almost two years, I could almost feel my thoughts merge with Pallavi's. I could see her observing China from the standpoint we Indians take while visiting China - the shedding of naive observations, the pang of jealousy over China's immense and well-maintained infrastructure, (what roads, we marveled), and the sheer pace of China's progress. Then, we would step back and say smugly, well, we have democracy - we can write to Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, call him a leaden-footed politician, and get away with it, and the poor Chinese are leaden-footed intellectually, forced into acknowledging the Communist Party as God.

Yet there is no lack of religious freedom in China - contrary to popular belief, and Pallavi writes eloquently on the same, visiting abbots in Louyang to Imams in Xinjiang. The freedom is not absolute, yet it is there. Pallavi Aiyar writes like a journalist - there is little sentiment, her observations are taut, and her research immaculate. From extensive coverage of Beijing's vanishing hutongs, which includes some of her best interactions with the Chinese, to her eventual reporting, including the landmark coverage of the first Beijing-Lhasa train, the book covers the length and breadth of China. Although I was bored a bit towards the end, when the book meandered into a debate on whether the author would prefer India or China, I enjoyed reading Smoke And Mirrors. Immensely.
7 reviews
September 26, 2019
Since I read the book " THE EMERGENCY PERSONAL HISTORY " by Coomi Kapoor, I wasn't glued to a book as I glued with this book : It's not just a travalogue on China, it's an analysis on the political and social life of China with that of India; when in went through this book , I got few answers which I were seeking for a long time : How China could survive with absolute negation of Fundamental freedoms to her own people along with a sound legal system against the arbitrariness of the state. She observes the China compensated political freedoms with economic achievements, and the people simply don't care about the political rights.

The second important idea she moots in this book is about the assumption that India emerges as a counter wieght to that of China : she says that , the economic achievements of her is truly incomparable with that of India.

What make the societies of India and China fundamentally diffrent ?
Indian society considers the lack of sufficient infrastructure as a price for having a democratic system, but the Chinese society despite being denied with fudamental freedoms , it was able to achieve economic development.
Profile Image for T. Sathish.
Author 2 books70 followers
August 10, 2021
This is a slightly dated book on life in China. Specifically, considering the pace at which the country has developed, 10 years is very long time. Still, many of the aspects of Chinese life that Pallavi experienced in mid 2000s must still be true. Chinese are a pragmatic lot and do what is necessary to get their job done. There is a lot for India to learn from the Fiery dragon. After reading this book which spoke about Chindia being the slogan during mid 2000s, I can't help myself from thinking how far behind India has left itself behind in the past 15 years..We only have ourselves to blame..
Profile Image for Venkateswaran.
33 reviews5 followers
July 19, 2012
I am most probably not going to go too many miles beyond bangalore, but books like these make me simultaneously happy and sad. Happy that through such books a foreign country can be felt, but sad that I probably wont feel it in real time

Must read for anyone wanting to know about china, must read for anyone wanting to compare India with china ( the author does it almost on every page), must read for anyone wanting a good story
Profile Image for Vampire Who Baked.
156 reviews104 followers
September 16, 2020
very engaging text, lots of insightful observations, reasonably adept at walking the tightrope between limited and general, keeping it strictly personal but nevertheless making wider remarks. best read as a memoir about how one adapts to an erstwhile-considered dauntingly-foreign cultural context, and finds oneself falling in love with the people and places that once seemed intimidatingly unfamiliar.
Profile Image for Prachi.
157 reviews
May 30, 2022
way better than her stupid book on japan at least. i don't know what to say about her, she tries her best i guess but it's not enough. itna vagueness nahi chahiye. but her pace is easy to get swept up in and her life is truly so interesting, and i appreciate the way she filters the places she frequents, not for her journalistic acuity (which is weirdly lacking), but for her honesty and insistence on her POV.
Profile Image for Vijay Menon.
25 reviews23 followers
May 8, 2015
I'm not entirely sure of the single most reason why I liked this book. Maybe it was the travelogue-cum-political analysis style of writing that appealed to me, or maybe it was simply because of the fact that it was really well written, witty at parts, and was profound. Either way, if you're someone even remotely interested in the enigma that is China, I'd say go for it!
Profile Image for Ann Wilson.
6 reviews
July 31, 2023
Pallavi aiyer, transported me to China for the whole week as I was reading this book.
I even started learning Chinese on duolingo.
I found this book eye opening. It made me understand myself more as I could relate to the university students and even Mr Wus son who was born into a well off family in China. Mr Wu was an inspiring character. His humility to clean toilets and the respect for all profession among the Chinese was really inspiring. Moreover, this book broadened my understanding of the China India relation. How we are alike and how we are different in terms of our diversity, values like religion etc, governance etc.
10/10
Profile Image for alyssa.
570 reviews5 followers
August 6, 2023
A fantastic read recommended by my dear friend Kandala! This memoir is an account of an Indian woman living and working in China during the 2000s. Her perspective is wonderful to read about because she’s not from the West but she’s also not Chinese.
160 reviews
November 23, 2025
My favorite section is when she relocated from the city center to the Hutong and detailed the essence of life in old Beijing. Anecdotes about her landlord were entertaining. The journey to the rooftop of the world was very interesting and eye opening. I envy her for being on that inaugural journey.
8 reviews
August 13, 2023
Nice book

Nice book. Got a better perspective of China. Also a history lesson. Also a very good comparison between India and China
Profile Image for Viju Chellamuthu.
8 reviews
September 25, 2016
The first book I read about life in China. Narrative and indulging. Author's extensive travels all around China brings us insight into the changes that are constantly seen in everyday life in China. The story of Yivu, Vensho and Huvashi are inspiring. These towns and their entrepreneurs show the spirit of determinism and achievement. The book is concise and talks about the changes in China over two generations. The economic and infrastructure and human developments that made what China is today were a result of sheer force of execution.
Profile Image for Balaji Jaganathan.
4 reviews
January 9, 2015
சீனாவில் இருக்கும் பொருளாதாரம ஏற்றத்தாழ்வு இந்தியாவைவிட அதிகம். Googleல் தேசிய விரோத கொள்கைகளாக கருதப்படும் செய்திகளை இனையத்தில் தேடினால் இனைய தொடர்பு துண்டிக்கபடும் என்பது அதிர்ச்சியாக இருந்தது. வேலை தேடி பெருநகரத்திற்கு செல்ல அனுமதி வாங்க வேண்டும் என்ற சட்டம் அங்கு 20 ஆண்டு முன்னர் வரை இருந்திருக்கிறது. திடீரென அரசாங்க ஊழியர்கள் வந்து உங்கள் வீட்டில் சாய் என்று எழுதிவிட்டால் கேள்வி கேட்காமல் வீட்டை விட்டு வெளியேற வேண்டும் என்பது சர்வாதிகாரத்தின் உச்சம். இரத்த தான முகாமில் ஏற்பட்ட குளறுபடியால் 10000 பேர் எய்ட்ஸ் நோயால் பாதிக்கப்பட்டது அலட்சியத்தின் உச்சகட்டம்.

இவற்றையெல்லாம் தாண்டி மக்கள் உழைப்பே தங்கள் வாழ்க்கை இலட்சியமாக கொண்டு வாழ்கின்றனர். நம்மிடம் ஜனநாயகத்தை கொடுத்து வாழ சொன்னால் சாதி சண்டை போட்டுக்கொண்டு கூத்தாடிகளுக்கு துதி பாடுகிறோம். இந்தியா சீனாவிடம் கற்க வேண்டியவை பல சீனா இந்தியாவிடம் கற்க வேண்டியவை சில...
3 reviews
January 4, 2016
Pallavi Aiyar's smart insight into China's crazy growth is a fun read and a frightful view of life and a human people. The book is written in a lively style that keeps the reader on his toes and China's story is one of the most fascinating of this century. As an Indian, the book has a deeper importance as a comparison oft made but boring usually between the two countries. What makes the book stand out from other accounts of China is her highlighting the cultural and social upheavals along with and because of economic ones.
All in all, I would recommend the book to anyone interested in the region and to those who want an exciting, well written book on a deeply moving story of an old people.
Profile Image for Arun Batra.
12 reviews1 follower
June 4, 2013
Even though I wanted to read something on China, I was reluctant to read this book. I somehow started but got instantly hooked on it. The best thing about the book is that it is written by a mind which is very intelligent, inquisitive, fun loving and youthful, all at the same time and you will be able to feel it throughout the book...You would simply love to read this awesome piece of work explaining the most detailed and mundane things about china in such an entertaining way. And yes, do enjoy the regular comparisons between India and China throughout the book, they are so insightful!!!
Profile Image for Rohit Verma.
2 reviews10 followers
May 29, 2015
I really enjoyed reading this book. It rediscovers how India and China are closely linked together through more than 2000 years of cultural and economic ties. Authors comparison of life in Mao's China to the modern one was interesting. After reading this book you will feel an affinity towards China and its Hard working people.



















































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