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Omelette and a Glass of Wine
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine , a collection of articles originally written for The Spectator, Gourmet magazine, Vogue, and The (London) Sunday Times, among others, is the penultimate book by Elizabeth David. This revered classic volume contains delightful explorations of food and cooking, among which are the collection's namesake essay and other such gems as "Syllabubs and Fruit Fools," "Sweet Vegetables, Soft Wine," "Pleasing Cheeses," and "Whisky in the Kitchen." Her many admirers will cherish this new edition, and readers coming to know Ms. David for the first time will marvel at her wisdom and grace.
392 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1984
152 people are currently reading
2844 people want to read
About the author
Elizabeth David
105 books102 followersBorn Elizabeth Gwynne, she was of mixed English and Irish ancestry, and came from a rather grand background, growing up in the 17th-century Sussex manor house, Wootton Manor. Her parents were Rupert Gwynne, Conservative MP for Eastbourne, and the Hon. Stella Ridley, who came from a distinguished Northumberland family. They had three other daughters.
She studied Literature and History at the Sorbonne, living with a French family for two years, which led to her love of France and of food. At the age of 19, she was given her first cookery book, The Gentle Art of Cookery by Hilda Leyel, who wrote of her love with the food of the East. "If I had been given a standard Mrs Beeton instead of Mrs Leyel's wonderful recipes," she said, "I would probably never have learned to cook."
Gwynne had an adventurous early life, leaving home to become an actress. She left England in 1939, when she was twenty-five, and bought a boat with her married lover Charles Gibson-Cowan intending to travel around the Mediterranean. The onset of World War II interrupted this plan, and they had to flee the German occupation of France. They left Antibes for Corsica and then on to Italy where the boat was impounded; they arrived on the day Italy declared war on Britain. Eventually deported to Greece, living on the Greek island of Syros for a period, Gwynne learnt about Greek food and spent time with high bohemians such as the writer Lawrence Durrell. When the Germans invaded Greece they fled to Crete where they were rescued by the British and evacuated to Egypt, where she lived firstly in Alexandria and later in Cairo. There Gwynne started work for the Ministry of Information, split from Gibson-Cowan, and eventually took on a marriage of convenience, more or less as her aunt, Violet Gordon-Woodhouse, had done. This gave her a measure of respectability but Lieutenant-Colonel Tony David was a man whom she did not ultimately respect, and their relationship ended soon after an eight month posting in India. She had many lovers in ensuing years.
On her return to London in 1946, David began to write articles on cooking, and in 1949 the publisher John Lehmann offered her a £100 advance for Book of Mediterranean Food, the start of a dazzling writing career. David spent eight months researching Italian food in Venice, Tuscany and Capri. This resulted in Italian Food in 1954, with illustrations by Renato Guttuso, which was famously described by Evelyn Waugh in The Sunday Times as one of the two books which had given him the most pleasure that year.
Many of the ingredients were unknown in England when the books were first published, as shortages and rationing continued for many years after the end of the war, and David had to suggest looking for olive oil in pharmacies where it was sold for treating earache. Within a decade, ingredients such as aubergines, saffron and pasta began to appear in shops, thanks in no small part to David's books. David gained fame, respect and high status and advised many chefs and companies. In November 1965, she opened her own shop devoted to cookery in Pimlico, London. She wrote articles for Vogue magazine, one of the first in the genre of food-travel.
In 1963, when she was 49, she suffered a cerebral hemorrhage, possibly related to her heavy drinking. Although she recovered, it affected her sense of taste and her libido.
She studied Literature and History at the Sorbonne, living with a French family for two years, which led to her love of France and of food. At the age of 19, she was given her first cookery book, The Gentle Art of Cookery by Hilda Leyel, who wrote of her love with the food of the East. "If I had been given a standard Mrs Beeton instead of Mrs Leyel's wonderful recipes," she said, "I would probably never have learned to cook."
Gwynne had an adventurous early life, leaving home to become an actress. She left England in 1939, when she was twenty-five, and bought a boat with her married lover Charles Gibson-Cowan intending to travel around the Mediterranean. The onset of World War II interrupted this plan, and they had to flee the German occupation of France. They left Antibes for Corsica and then on to Italy where the boat was impounded; they arrived on the day Italy declared war on Britain. Eventually deported to Greece, living on the Greek island of Syros for a period, Gwynne learnt about Greek food and spent time with high bohemians such as the writer Lawrence Durrell. When the Germans invaded Greece they fled to Crete where they were rescued by the British and evacuated to Egypt, where she lived firstly in Alexandria and later in Cairo. There Gwynne started work for the Ministry of Information, split from Gibson-Cowan, and eventually took on a marriage of convenience, more or less as her aunt, Violet Gordon-Woodhouse, had done. This gave her a measure of respectability but Lieutenant-Colonel Tony David was a man whom she did not ultimately respect, and their relationship ended soon after an eight month posting in India. She had many lovers in ensuing years.
On her return to London in 1946, David began to write articles on cooking, and in 1949 the publisher John Lehmann offered her a £100 advance for Book of Mediterranean Food, the start of a dazzling writing career. David spent eight months researching Italian food in Venice, Tuscany and Capri. This resulted in Italian Food in 1954, with illustrations by Renato Guttuso, which was famously described by Evelyn Waugh in The Sunday Times as one of the two books which had given him the most pleasure that year.
Many of the ingredients were unknown in England when the books were first published, as shortages and rationing continued for many years after the end of the war, and David had to suggest looking for olive oil in pharmacies where it was sold for treating earache. Within a decade, ingredients such as aubergines, saffron and pasta began to appear in shops, thanks in no small part to David's books. David gained fame, respect and high status and advised many chefs and companies. In November 1965, she opened her own shop devoted to cookery in Pimlico, London. She wrote articles for Vogue magazine, one of the first in the genre of food-travel.
In 1963, when she was 49, she suffered a cerebral hemorrhage, possibly related to her heavy drinking. Although she recovered, it affected her sense of taste and her libido.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 76 reviews
January 1, 2012
I've been reading this book for quite some time, mostly while eating lol. I really like to read about food, and the author definitely has a way with words, but sometimes her elitism got on my nerves. Especially when she talks about servants as being nothing more than machines... Also, I understand the times were different, but there was so much talk about eating mounds of steaming meat - I don't know how to say it, I eat meat myself from time to time, even though I feel bad afterwards - but in this book every animal save for cat is just food and it's upsetting.
Still, great style, we need to be a bit more poetic about food.
Still, great style, we need to be a bit more poetic about food.
March 21, 2009
I was dicing the garlic, getting ready slip it in the pan with some fragrant olive oil. The shrimp awaited in a bowl to the left, and the herbs from the garden were already minced and ready in a small glass bowl. There was a call from the back door from my sweetheart, who had just arrived home.
"I think you got a book in the mail", he said giving me a kiss hello.
And, low and behold, he was right! Just handling the book got my taste buds going!
I do so like books about food, especially those that give more than just basic how-to information. My husband finally had to ask that I not read books about food or cookbooks as my bedtime reading, because it made him hungry and he was putting on weight from all his bedtime reading induced refrigerator raids.
This was a lovely book to wander through. Some sections I savored more than others, but it may have been because of my distraction level with the plots and fancies of life that have occurred while reading it.
Elizabeth David has a very homey way of writing. I was particularly interested in the early info about food rationing and in the section on cooking with whiskey. Part of my problem in cooking with alcohol is that I want to save the good stuff for savoring and sipping!
"I think you got a book in the mail", he said giving me a kiss hello.
And, low and behold, he was right! Just handling the book got my taste buds going!
I do so like books about food, especially those that give more than just basic how-to information. My husband finally had to ask that I not read books about food or cookbooks as my bedtime reading, because it made him hungry and he was putting on weight from all his bedtime reading induced refrigerator raids.
This was a lovely book to wander through. Some sections I savored more than others, but it may have been because of my distraction level with the plots and fancies of life that have occurred while reading it.
Elizabeth David has a very homey way of writing. I was particularly interested in the early info about food rationing and in the section on cooking with whiskey. Part of my problem in cooking with alcohol is that I want to save the good stuff for savoring and sipping!
September 30, 2013
This is a collection of various magazine articles and newspaper columns - with a particular focus on the Spectator and Sunday Times in the 50's. I enjoy David's writing and in particular, her determination to move England away from the curse of the over-accessorized cooking that dominated during the 20th C. Of course, her passion is for French cooking and it is the pieces here that focus on her experiences and influences in France that stand out. Though I imagine it must have been somewhat tiresome for readers of the British press to learn, week on week, how inferior their cookery is. At least she provided helpful tips and instruction.
David brought together this collection in the mid 80's so there are a number of postscripts and updates that add another dimension to her earlier observations: where the individuals she profiles have since died, for example, or how the legacies of certain hotel restaurants in France have since been passed along.
Or, in the case of Doctoeur Edouard de Pomaine - who she claims was the founder of Gastrotechnology - a lovely tribute to how much he would delight to find that his "protests against illogical and harmful eating habits" went on to inspire the nouvelle cuisine chefs of the late 60's and 70's who moved away from the ludicrously extensive and rich menus that were previously the norm across Europe. Of course, we now see how this study of the science of food has exploded and inspires the most innovative chefs of the world's top restaurants today: Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal, and many others.
There are some wonderful essays and articles here. There are other pieces which I read through with less interest. The ones profiling people stood out for me - the ones that primarily featured an airing of complaints, less so - though there are some very funny moments there. There is no denying David's incredible influence on British cookery and I look forward to reading more.
David brought together this collection in the mid 80's so there are a number of postscripts and updates that add another dimension to her earlier observations: where the individuals she profiles have since died, for example, or how the legacies of certain hotel restaurants in France have since been passed along.
Or, in the case of Doctoeur Edouard de Pomaine - who she claims was the founder of Gastrotechnology - a lovely tribute to how much he would delight to find that his "protests against illogical and harmful eating habits" went on to inspire the nouvelle cuisine chefs of the late 60's and 70's who moved away from the ludicrously extensive and rich menus that were previously the norm across Europe. Of course, we now see how this study of the science of food has exploded and inspires the most innovative chefs of the world's top restaurants today: Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal, and many others.
There are some wonderful essays and articles here. There are other pieces which I read through with less interest. The ones profiling people stood out for me - the ones that primarily featured an airing of complaints, less so - though there are some very funny moments there. There is no denying David's incredible influence on British cookery and I look forward to reading more.
November 6, 2009
I hate to say it, but sometimes my like/dislike of book is based on the typeset and formatting of the text. This book's font, spacing, et al. reminded me too much of college texts to be anything of literary meat, and so I started reading with an unfair bias. However, I tried to literally read through the lines, but this book felt "British": formal, structured, within its boundaries. I felt that Elizabeth David was an extreme Francophile who looked down her nose at her own countrymen. Granted, I highly regard her contributions to modern gastronomy and wanted to really appreciate her essays in this book, but I couldn't get past a sort of stodginess. I expected someone who is truly in love with food to express that passion for it rather than rattling off a list of its accolades. There were some great moments in the book, but I found myself skimming over some essays despite my strange commitment to usually having to read every word. In the end, I still think I didn't give it a fair shake because of the typeset, but it didn't win me over either.
June 14, 2025
Fun collection of food writing from the 50s and 60s with postmarks from the 80s. Unsurprisingly, there are a few things that don’t hold up 70 or so years later, but overall a very interesting and sometimes funny read.
March 19, 2021
Escapist food writing, perfect for pandemic times
August 1, 2012
I'm in the middle of this collection of articles and essays by Elizabeth David, published mostly in the 50s-70s in the British press (The Spectator, The Guardian, British Vogue). She reminds me of a less excitable version of MFK Fisher, the California-based food writer who wrote about her culinary travels through Europe during the 30s-50s. David's writing is elegant and opinionated--admonishing the British public for its reliance on tinned, ready-made food instead of the lovingly made, if not simpler food available in France and Spain. It's hard to imagine that there was a time that the rest of Europe considered Spanish cuisine the "worst in Europe;" harder still to imagine Britain as it tried to bounce back from WWII and food rationing...still, the book is an interesting dip into historical and culinary tourism.
November 23, 2011
I have a food-centric book club going with a group of Seattle food friends, and we wanted to read one of the classic food writers of the 20th century. We chose Elizabeth David. She's an excellent writer, but this one didn't speak to me as I expected. I suspect it suffers from something we've talked about in my Favorite Book Club -- she's such an icon (and mimicked by latter writers) that her works almost seemed derivative. She was likely the original voice, so I feel a tad guilty finding her essays stale. Out of the whole collection, there were probably 3 essays I truly enjoyed.
June 24, 2012
I wanted to like the book as much as the title but, sadly, I didn't. Three hundred and fifty pages of mostly short 3-5 page articles, not essays, feels a bit like taking constant little gasps and never getting a deep breath. I'm sure it was wonderful for it's time and has good historic value.
September 11, 2011
I don't understand why Elizabeth David is as herald as she is. The prose doesn't sing, the imagery feels dull.
November 11, 2012
Couldn't get into the writing & it had weird margins making it more difficult to read.
December 18, 2017
Clearly for anyone who has any memory of what English (or for that matter Australian) cooking used to be like, loves ironic writing, and/or cooking. Great turn of phrase
August 6, 2023
100% matnörderi på ett mycket mysigt, om än ibland utdaterat och upprepande, sätt. En intressant och lärorik inblick i efterkrigstidens brittiska kök såväl som en kärleksförklaring till Medelhalvsköken. Många av Davids deviser håller än idag och att läsa hennes beskrivningar av solmogna tomater, grillade citroner och enkelt tillagade grönsaker är ljuvligt. Essäerna är som mest underhållande när författaren växlar mellan lättsamhet och allvar – mat är ju både roligt och viktigt och skrivs bäst om med det i åtanke.
"Det är svårt att föreställa sig någon matlagning utan citroner, och vi som kommer ihåg när det var ont om dem under kriget eller de helt lyste med sin frånvaro, minns det som en av de svåraste av den tidens smärre umbäranden. Ingen citron att krama över stekt eller grillad fisk, ingen citronsaft att pigga upp den fadda smaken av torkade ärter och bönor med – dessa röda linser och gröna ärter som dominerade vår mathållning – ingen citronsaft som satte piff på de gamla fårstekarna och ålderstigna kokhönsnen, ingen citron till pannkakorna, inget skal att riva i kaksmet och puddingar!"
"Det är svårt att föreställa sig någon matlagning utan citroner, och vi som kommer ihåg när det var ont om dem under kriget eller de helt lyste med sin frånvaro, minns det som en av de svåraste av den tidens smärre umbäranden. Ingen citron att krama över stekt eller grillad fisk, ingen citronsaft att pigga upp den fadda smaken av torkade ärter och bönor med – dessa röda linser och gröna ärter som dominerade vår mathållning – ingen citronsaft som satte piff på de gamla fårstekarna och ålderstigna kokhönsnen, ingen citron till pannkakorna, inget skal att riva i kaksmet och puddingar!"
May 20, 2018
Notes for me: A combination memoir cookbook which seems to be the case for most of David's worth. Her recipes can be vague to the modern cook who is looking for a certain exactitude in the initial cooking of a recipe. Her own personal passions for food come forth on a regular basis: potted meats (to excess of the American cook,) and rather than a choice of desserts she returns again and again to fresh fruit (berries) and every variation of fools, jams, curds, syllabubs, triffles and oddly names sweets that make up the history of British Isle cookery. Still. She is a terrific writer and well worth the effort to think on what she says. I've been re-reading her lately, realizing I don't have these books on my GoodReads list.
I re-read this book in 2018
I re-read this book in 2018
June 6, 2013
Elizabeth David was the finest writer on food that the UK ever produced. Her work was an inspiration to the current generation of food writers, yet none of them has matched her intensity and devotion to her craft. I tried briefly to summarise that here: http://thewordmachine.org/elizabeth-d... It would be good if the 100th anniversary of her birth could be celebrated by a new high quality edition of her works. Anyway, this particular volume is a great introduction to her writing, with pithy essays and excellent journalism. Read this, and then go back to her major works.
March 6, 2008
I abandoned this book, with only about a quarter of it left.
It's a collection of essays Elizabeth David wrote for various food and fashion magazines from post-WW2 until the 70s or 80s.
David writes in a really quirky but dated, quintessentially British fashion. It's enjoyable, but was a bit exhausting for me. Some of the essays are really fun, and they make you want to cook a big meal for friends. Her rallying cry against the bastardization of hollandaise is really amusing because, for me, it's so disproportionately passionate.
It's a collection of essays Elizabeth David wrote for various food and fashion magazines from post-WW2 until the 70s or 80s.
David writes in a really quirky but dated, quintessentially British fashion. It's enjoyable, but was a bit exhausting for me. Some of the essays are really fun, and they make you want to cook a big meal for friends. Her rallying cry against the bastardization of hollandaise is really amusing because, for me, it's so disproportionately passionate.
January 3, 2014
Really beautiful writing, but the pace was just too slow. It's more a collection of essays and articles, so thematically it wasn't really tied together. I also find her to be a little wordy, but that may just be that styles have changed over time and I'm used to more conciseness. At any rate, it's a lovely book to peruse over time - I found it difficult to focus on this as my only book. It was more the kind of thing you'd like to dip into over time.
She seems to have had a very interesting life; I would like to check out a biography of her when I have the time.
She seems to have had a very interesting life; I would like to check out a biography of her when I have the time.
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April 3, 2025I'm an admirer of Elizabeth David's cook books. I have most of them and have been using them since the '70s. But this book didn't work for me. It seems to me that when you write about sensory/sensual experiences you can either try to analyze them, "tastes of cherries and old leather" or try to evoke them. The first produces a technical book which this is not, nor did it succeed in evocation for me. I recommend her cook books, but for writing about experiences, I prefer M.F.K Fisher or James Beard.
August 29, 2017
it's always lovely to read someone writing about a thing they're genuinely passionate about, and elizabeth david sure loved her food! some of it hasn't aged well (interested in the perfect way to serve *hnngh* headcheese?) and it's all rather too focused on french food, a cuisine i am almost totally indifferent about, for my taste. however, there were enough interesting/charming vignettes, food history and tips and tricks to make it worth while.
September 29, 2008
The evocative and luscious descriptions of her French food excursions are charming; her name-checking essays less so. I think the latter essays rely on the celebrities and culture of a certain Britain that I'm not familiar enough with to enjoy. But who cares about that when you can read all the happy gastronomic discoveries that Ms. David trips upon when travelling The Continent?
July 18, 2012
Reading this book again- I love Elizabeth David! Very posh but she does speak the truth. Every time I think about eating a junky dinner because I can't be bothered cooking, I think about her simple and refined meal suggestions (salad of hard boiled eggs, anchovies, black olives, washed down with a cold glass of white) and feel ashamed.
May 8, 2009
This writer changed the way post war English middle classes ate. Elizabeth David is my very favourite food writer. Beautifully observed seductive prose. If you have never read any Elizabeth David start here.
December 1, 2009
Fun and colorful essays on food and wine, from the vantage point of her life in France and England. Includes some great culinary history, tradition, and recipes, but a few of the market descriptions went on too long.
December 12, 2009
One of the all-time classic food writers and a spiritual mentor to Alice Waters. Omnivore Books, in Noe Valley, has a marvelous collection of David books that are either out-of-print or U.K. editions. Unfortunately, she's not that easy to find in the U.S. (at least, last time I looked...)
September 24, 2013
Is it possible to be nostalgic for the Twentieth Century? Elizabeth David is one of Nigella Lawson's major influences. Ms. David was witty and EXPERT. She really knew her stuff and she clearly enjoyed sharing her experiences. Her writing and experiences are so elegant. Sigh.
May 1, 2015
p.52 Omelette Moliere
p.178 Tomates a la creme
p.199 English Lemon Curd
p.200 Short Crust for Lemon Curd Pie
p.201 To Preserve Lemons in Cloves
p.235 My Own Version of Everlasting Syllabub
p.178 Tomates a la creme
p.199 English Lemon Curd
p.200 Short Crust for Lemon Curd Pie
p.201 To Preserve Lemons in Cloves
p.235 My Own Version of Everlasting Syllabub
February 12, 2009
Foodie Book.
October 14, 2022
Fabulous book of Elizabeth David's personal stories.
It is wonderful.
Please read it.
It is wonderful.
Please read it.
January 20, 2010
deliciously dry
March 26, 2011
I love her writing style.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 76 reviews