Patternmaking for Fashion Design

by Helen Joseph Armstrong, Vincent James Maruzzi (Illustrator), Kathryn Hagen (Illustrator)

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this hallmark book offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles–dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring–it provides all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.

Sewing guides included for the pleated trouser (with pattern layout), belt/loops, pockets, and zipper; the jean pant with pockets, countour belt, and fly front; and the gusset. Updated jacket foundation draft includes fabric preparation, interfacing, chest piece, tape control, and shoulder pads. Pant drafts–Trouser draft including pocket, waistband, and loop; dungaree foundation draft; grunge pant draft; and three jean waistline variations including pocket and sewing instruction. Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns. Unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.

For anyone developing their patternmaking skills.

Genres: Fashion, Sewing, Fashion Design, Nonfiction, Design, Reference, Crafts

805 pages, Ring-bound

First published February 1, 1987

Reviews

[Sara Musko · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an extremely comprehensive book on patternmaking. It gives you instructions to draft almost anything you could ever want to make. This is the textbook for the patternmaking classes for my fashion program, and it was a good complement to the course, but on its own I believe it would be confusing. Some of the instructions will leave you feeling lost, but overall this is an awesome reference book and super inspiring.

[Darklysewn · Rating 5 out of 5]

i actually own the 2nd edition. i reference this book more times than i can count. i have no idea what i would do without it. the best book on basic instruction from beginner to professional. everyone should own a copy of this book who wants to make clothing

[Dana · Rating 5 out of 5]

Read as part of a pattern making class and while the info is good, I don't think I would get as much from the book without a knowledgeable teacher. Some of the instructions are unclear, and the methods are more difficult and yield the same results, and the illustrations are some time ambiguous.
I would still recommend this book though, worth owning!

[Emma R. Pilcher]

I reference this all the time. The size charts are an invaluable resource for tailoring and digital pattern drafting.

[Kathryn Priestley · Rating 5 out of 5]

For all beginner sewers, dress makers, tailors, etc., I present to you the manual to creating virtually any article of clothing from any material.
Obviously, you won't be able to instantly make an Oscar de la Rent a gown your first go-a-round but by the third or fourth...get the book.
I do suggest the newest version, as techniques are always being updated/simplified as well as new ones added, but it's not pertinent that you shell out $60 for a textbook, the newer versions just have better pictures ( for those of us who are better visual learners) and come in color, and you get a CD with some, again its not necessary. With the book and Youtube, you can do it!

[Amy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Overall extremely informative, but it's filled with a surprising amount of errata for a 5th edition. Also, some very questionable/hilarious design sensibilities throughout.

[Amanda · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a great reference book! I know I will refer to it tons!

[Kara · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a great resource for pattern making. I learned so much. My only complaint is that there are many typos.

[Lauren · Rating 3 out of 5]

Textbook for the Patternmaking classes I took. Interesting to learn how patterns are constructed.

[Hinterland Hallucinations · Rating 5 out of 5]

My mother passed on some general sewing know-how: she had completed a drafting course in her youth, and grown up in an era (and poverty) where it was essential to know how to sew for the home, and clothing for the family. I’ve picked up tid-bits here and there and had lots and lots of practice, and had a general idea on how to construct a pattern from scratch, and finishes to produce a reasonable garment. Also making costumes for dance and theatre really drove my skill as it meant saving thousands of dollars. One time when I outsourced a number of dresses due to time constraints, the designer recommended ‘Patternmaking for Fashion Design’ as a great resource. It was the text book they used in his fashion design course. And I can’t say how valuable a resource it has been. This elevated my sewing skill exponentially as it not only gives simple-to-understand instructions for every type of design and construction, but can also be a source of inspiration to make your garment that bit more elevated.

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You can craft a design from scratch, to form fit from a body’s measurements, have sewing tips to ensure the best finish, and gives you the ability to produce tools (or purchase them) for a seamless process from start to finish.

This books talks about how to sketch a dress with construction in mind, how to draft up a panel/pattern, how to lay the pattern on the desired material, how the material behaves (stretch, bias, maximise useage, shrinkage after washing, etc…) I can’t list everything here as I would waste an afternoon, but suffice to say this book is a one stop shop for everything you will need for designing and constructing a garment. From formal wear, casual wear, lingerie, to swimwear; I’d happily recommend this book to anyone wishing to elevate their sewing.

I did have to go to a specialist book supplier to get a copy, but it was well worth it.

[Karen Gilmore · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an excellent resource to level up sewing skills for anyone who mostly sticks to fabric-store patterns and is looking to learn more techniques. I still need to play around with the techniques some more, so I might update with more detail after another project or two.

I gained access to an amazing library of saris collected by my Punjabi mother in law, but I don't have any sari blouses to go with them. I can't wait to use this reference to adapt the bodices from some beloved dress patterns to make some sari blouses for myself so I can start raiding her closet!

[Umi · Rating 4 out of 5]

Was going to give this five stars and say it was exhaustive, but then I realised there’s no pyjamas! What’s this lady have against sleepwear?! Also yeah as others mentioned it’s geared toward industrial use so the fit advice may be pretty useless for petite ladies and I’m slightly nervous that drafting a new trouser pattern from this book will just be slightly off, proportionally. Good for really regular size people and finally getting a lot of concepts tho!!

[Starla · Rating 5 out of 5]

1987 edition (for chapters on problems and pattern correction, and dart manipulation and contouring that were left out of the current printing).

Thirty years later this is still a main text for the industry, and wildly useful/informative.

[Laurel Fischback · Rating 5 out of 5]

This a great in-depth, yet very understandable, method for adjusting or making new patterns. It takes the mystery out of pattern making and adjusting. It uses basic angles, ease allotments and measurements, with curves added, to make patterns. Great book. I have the 3rd edition.

[ELDEE · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is the Bible of fashion designers. One will NEVER be done reading it as the reference data is forever. Whether you are an amateur like me or more advanced in the field, you will find this book spot on.

[Chinagoromnwachukwu · Rating 5 out of 5]

good

[Amber · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an amazing textbook for patternmaking.

[Suzanne Woods · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ultimate reference for pattern making. Found it easiest to understand and create patterns from. Work for plus size patterns even though not mentioned specifically.

[Anjali Chawla · Rating 4 out of 5]

Amazing

[Jennifer Nkadi · Rating 2 out of 5]

.

[Alex]

Love

[Joyce · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good reference book. Who knew i could do this.

[Vibhuti]

FDGFGFGF

[Melissa Rayford · Rating 5 out of 5]

great great

[Abena Sam]

For more knowledge

[Faiz]

best book

[Isham Kaur · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read it as a part of my course. It has drafting instructions for almost every type of clothes.

[Elizabeth Coombs · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book. Takes you right from the basics of creating a three-dimensional shape from a two-dimensional piece of fabric, to details of things like how to adjust the height of a collar.

[Hasan Rizvee · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good reference to a fashion enthusiast.

[Charlotte · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've learned a whole lot from this book and can see myself referencing it a lot in the future.