5★
“And later as we leave, the old man’s wife gives us some apples and says,‘John, you should be ashamed of yourself; in front of these children. There are some things that have to be but are not for children’s eyes.’ The chastised old man nods and looks down upon his shoes but then looks up at us very gravely from beneath his bushy eyebrows, looks at us in a very special way and I know that it is only because we are all boys that he does this and that the look as it excludes the woman simultaneously includes us in something that I know and feel but cannot understand.”
That is from the story, The Return, 1971. The boy is ten years old, meeting his father’s family on Cape Breton Island, Novia Scotia, for the first time. He lives in Montreal and has always known his well-to-do mother’s family, so meeting these rather rough country people is a shock to him. His cousins are showing him around the countryside.
“Then we skip rocks on the surface of the sea and I skip one six times and then stop because I know I have made an impression and doubt if I am capable of an encore.”
From there, they walk to a barn where the cousins know the farmer keeps a huge bull, and they ask if he’s expecting any cows today.
“We can look at the bull if we wish but we must not tease him nor go too close. He is very big and brown and white with a ring in his nose and he paws the floor of his stall and makes low noises while lowering his head and swinging it from side to side.”
Then the farmer says they’re in luck, as someone has just arrived with a cow, but they must be careful and stay out of the way.
“We sit appreciatively on the top rail of the wooden fence and watch the old man as he leads out the bull who is now moaning and dripping and frothing at the mouth. I have never seen anything like this before and watch with awe this something that is both beautiful and terrible, and I know that I will somehow not be able to tell my mother, to whom I have told almost everything important that has happened in my young life.”
It's obvious why the old woman chastised the old man. Note that had there been any girls amongst the cousins, it’s a good bet the farmer would have sent them on their way.
MacLeod’s work doesn’t lend itself to skimming for plot, although the storylines are compelling enough to want to hurry to find out what happens. They need to be read slowly enough to appreciate the full force of the look the farmer gives under his bushy eyebrows to the boys who watched the bull and the cow – how the boys understand they’ve become part of some kind of brotherhood, beyond their childhood, even if they aren’t sure exactly what it means.
I can’t quite get over the way MacLeod describes absolutely everything, from the bull to the coal miners to the fishermen to the stark, bitter winters and the grinding poverty of Cape Breton. He also finds beauty. On their way to the island, his father points excitedly from the train to where the grandparents live (and the farmer with the bull).
He points “to the blueness that is the Strait of Canso, with the gulls hanging almost stationary above the tiny fishing boats and the dark green of the spruce and fir mountains rising out of the water and trailing white wisps of mist about them like discarded ribbons hanging about a newly opened package.”
In The Road to Rankin’s Point,1976, the narrator describes arriving in a small village.
“I am speaking now of a July in the early 1970s and it is in the morning just after the sun has risen following a night of heavy rains. My car moves through the quiet village which is yet asleep except for those few houses which have sent fishermen to their nets and trawls some hours before. From such houses the smoke whisks and curls lazily before slanting off at the insistence of the almost imperceptible southeast wind.”
I chose the episode with the bull because it is not lyrically descriptive, and it isn’t specific to Cape Breton and its weather or the dangers of the sea and the mines. It is about a boy who is awestruck as he realises that the world doesn’t begin and end with his parents and their life in the city, and that perfectly good people don’t live the way they do.
I’ve seen other authors refer to MacLeod as the best, and I can see why. Each story is a world in itself, whether it’s a family losing a child or parent, a community mourning a disaster, or the disappointment of a young man realising he can’t escape because he will be needed at home... forever.
There is one example of that last young man in The Vastness of the Dark, 1971. A drunk, 80-year-old grandfather blurts out to his young grandson something that was to remain confidential forever (and he gets in trouble from the grandmother when she finds out.)
“‘You know,’ he said, ‘when I learned that your mother was knocked up I was so happy I was just ashamed. And my wife was in a rage and your mother’s parents were weeping and wringing their silly hands and whenever I was near them I would walk around looking at my shoes. But I think that, God forgive me, I may have even prayed for something like that and when I heard it I said, "Well, he will have to stay now and marry her because that’s the kind of man he is, and he will work in my place now just as I’ve always wanted."
It wasn’t the grandfather’s own son who was fated to work in the mines, but the boy’s father, who ‘did the right thing’ and married the boy’s mother.
MacLeod was raised in Cape Breton himself. In the first story, The Boat, 1968, the narrator gives a brief history of some who came to settle in this inhospitable part of the world.
“The houses and their people, like those of the neighbouring towns and villages, were the result of Ireland’s discontent and Scotland’s Highland Clearances and America’s War of Independence. Impulsive, emotional Catholic Celts who could not bear to live with England and shrewd, determined Protestant Puritans who, in the years after 1776, could not bear to live without.”
The inclement weather and the starkness of the setting, except for the trees, is certainly reminiscent of the islands off Scotland and Ireland – cold, windswept, and harsh - and the settlers brought their cultures with them, continuing to use their own gaelic languages and songs.
The stories are presented in chronological order by the year they were written, from 1968 to 1999, and the introduction to the book by John McGahern is far better than anything I could say. Some are written in the first person, some in the third, and all are what I’d call quietly astonishing.
I read some of these years ago, and I’m sure I will read them all again.