During a semester abroad in Singapore, I had the privilege of studying creative writing with Boey Kim Cheng, and so whatever this review of his memoir will be, it will not be objective. Instead, it will be laced with the fascination of having met both the writer and protagonist of a narrative for real, and the wonder of watching a person you had a certain two-dimensional impression of into a three-dimensional diorama that spans from 1960s Singapore to Marrakesh hash. So, in short: if you know Prof. Boey personally, but only a professor, “Between Stations” will be a uniquely fascinating read because of its feat of complexification. If you don’t, it might feel slightly more abstract, but no less touching. This book, which is really a collection of personal essays rather than a memoir, interweaves recollections of Boey’s extensive travels (from India, China and Nepal through Iran, Egypt and Morocco) with his growing up in Singapore: games, friendships, characters from various cultures, family tragedies, sights and sounds and smells and places, most of which have since been demolished in the city’s money-fueled rush towards futurism, and replaced with corporate towers and air-conditioned shopping malls. There is a great deal of nostalgia here, and an equal sense of intrigue for those who know contemporary Singapore and find it rather mind-blowing that, only a few decades ago, there were still barren bits of land, unclaimed beaches, small-house neighborhoods and genuine wilderness on that island. Prominently in these recollections features the author’s father, who played an essential role in his childhood precisely through his numerous failings and absences. There were perpetual gambling debts, domestic violence, broken promises and unresolved feuds, and yet there is an equal amount in intimacy fostered on walks across these now eradicates sites, immersions in now displaced hawker streets, second-hand bookstores, cigarettes and music. Almost as prominently, these are joined by later, much more ephemeral but also more harmonic bonds with travelers on the road: expertly drawn sketches of backpackers, runaways, artists, idealists and ordinary people from every continent, many cultures. Boey’s writing is deeply poetic and often philosophical; he is singularly well read and thus often quotes Owen Wilson, Rilke and Walter Benjamin alongside aunts, uncles and chance acquaintances. If you want to charge him with sentimentality (though never pathos) or literary elitism (though never arrogance) you probably could, but those are subjective issues that never bothered me one bit. Instead, this book left me fascinated by a Singapore now confined solely to memory, moved by a deeply dysfunctional and yet perennial father-son-relationship, and, most of all, burning to go and fall into the world, to travel for people, scents, sounds and poems rather than prestige and tourist sights––to give myself to the Calcuttas, Cairos, Alexandrias and Xians of this world, and relish the imprints they will leave.
A perfect book for on the road, especially at the beginning of a journey. A perfect book for any student of creative non-fiction too. As for anyone else, its perfection will depend on your preferred mode of transport, what you expect from a city on the road, and what kind of books you generally carry in your backpack when you’re headed there.