Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher

by Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley

* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture higher
* Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)
* Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as technique

This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine

terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude-approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery-and safety-lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process.

Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.

Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston have been guides and climbing instructors for more than 20 years. In 1988, Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face. Mark was among the first guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. Together, they made a lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua.

Part of the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series.

Genres: Climbing, Reference, Mountaineering, Outdoors

304 pages, Paperback

First published October 20, 2004

Reviews

[Lee Harrison]

I would say I have a lot more alpine experience than the intended target audience for this book, although I'm a self-taught climber who has never done any courses. I read this book in the hope of learning a few things that I didn't know that I didn't know, and I definately got some useful bits of information. The crevasse rescue section, which was of most interest to me, could have been much better though with a more appropriate format. It was too text-heavy, and the poor resolution black-and-white photos didn't adequately illustrate the necessary ropework. Some of the navigation information showed it's age as well. There's no doubt a lot useful information in this book for people starting out in alpinism though.

[Robert]

Personally found it very useful for my first trip to the Alps. I took it with me and it was constantly being passed around between the lot of us while relaxing in the valley camp. Even the more experienced guys found it useful to recap things and remind themselves of techniques they hadn't had to use for a year or more.

[Dave Kenealy]

For ambitious beginners or intermediates who want to break through to a higher level. This book will start you on your way to that new level, but be prepared to think very thoughtfully about the material, and do not dismiss the non-technical material without realizing its crucial importance.

[Chance]

Very entry-level material. With FOTH and The Mountaineer's Handbook on the shelf, I don't find much use for this volume.

[Wendi]

A very helpful book that builds on the basic skills necessary to climb safely and enjoyablely.

[Denny]

Definitely helped me make the transition from cragging to alpine climbing.