Rachel Levinson and her daughters start a cosmetics business in the middle of the 19th century. From a squalid background, 'Madame Rachel' is business-savvy and soon the terror of the female part of the aristocracy who are afraid to be known as users of her products. The book looks at a series of lawsuits against Rachel.
I've absolutely no idea how to review this, mainly because you can see clearly how much the author knows her subject and the Victorian era. But then: it could've been so much better!
As other reviewers have stated before me, the author mainly draws on primary sources like transcripts of the many, many lawsuits the subject of the book, Rachel Levinson, is involved in. This is, of course, totally valid: but then, the reluctance to interpret those sources makes a very unsatisfactory book whose subject never is more than a cutout.
I wished very much for more background info to flesh out Rachel, if the author didn't want to engage in speculation: draw a picture of London in the 1850-80s then, and tell us about antisemitism at the time, for example. Even more important, and a grave error: delve into the subject of women's beauty at the time. That's the glaring back hole around the book circles: why exactly is it so important for women of the upper middle classes and aristocracy to be beautiful for ever?
On top of that I found it really strange that there's nearly no info about the use and making of cosmetics in the 19th century when the subject of the book is, in fact, both a maker and seller of cosmetics.
While the points above make for a somewhat disappointing read (so many questions unanswered!), my biggest problem is the author's fluctuating stance on her subject: at times she nearly unthinkingly sides with her sources: women using beauty products and trying to preserve their looks are called 'silly and vain'. She judges readily without ever reflecting upon her source material that comes from men with their own agenda and the 19th century stance on women.
All in all, a disappointment.