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The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2
The untold story of Dudley Wolfe and America’s ill-fated 1939 expedition to the roof of the world.
In 1939 the Savage Mountain claimed its first victim. Born into vast wealth yet uneasy with a life of leisure, Dudley Wolfe, of Boston and Rockport, Maine, set out to become the first man to climb K2, the world’s second-highest mountain and, in the opinion of mountaineers, an even more formidable challenge than Mt. Everest. Although close to middle age and inexperienced at high altitude, Wolfe, with the team leader, made it higher than any other members of the expedition, but he couldn’t get back down. Suffering from altitude sickness and severe dehydration, he was abandoned at nearly 25,000 feet; it would be another sixty-three years before Jennifer Jordan discovered his remains.
In a story where The Great Gatsby meets Into Thin Air, readers follow Wolfe from the salons of Europe to the most forbidding landscape on earth. Wolfe went to K2 to find his own strength, only to encounter his teammates’ lethal weaknesses in a place called the Death Zone. 16 pages of photographs.
In 1939 the Savage Mountain claimed its first victim. Born into vast wealth yet uneasy with a life of leisure, Dudley Wolfe, of Boston and Rockport, Maine, set out to become the first man to climb K2, the world’s second-highest mountain and, in the opinion of mountaineers, an even more formidable challenge than Mt. Everest. Although close to middle age and inexperienced at high altitude, Wolfe, with the team leader, made it higher than any other members of the expedition, but he couldn’t get back down. Suffering from altitude sickness and severe dehydration, he was abandoned at nearly 25,000 feet; it would be another sixty-three years before Jennifer Jordan discovered his remains.
In a story where The Great Gatsby meets Into Thin Air, readers follow Wolfe from the salons of Europe to the most forbidding landscape on earth. Wolfe went to K2 to find his own strength, only to encounter his teammates’ lethal weaknesses in a place called the Death Zone. 16 pages of photographs.
304 pages, Hardcover
First published August 16, 2010
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 77 reviews
July 27, 2023
This book covers the ill-fated American expedition to summit K2 in the Himalayas by an ill-lead and inexperienced team. The book centers around the millionaire playboy, Dudley Wolfe and how he came to be on this expedition and how he was lost along with three Sherpas on the mountain.
The book is written very personally as it was the author who discovered the remains of Wolfe decades after his disappearance. The book is well written and researched, using letters and diaries to give the book dialogue. It gives the history of the mountain and follows the teams arduous journey to just reach the mountain, and then how they set about attempting to summit.
The story is a tragedy because of the life of the men, but it is also a story of courage and will power, especially how a novice like Wolfe could survive for so long at high altitude and then still almost make it out alive. The author says that a lot was said afterwards that he was weak and had no business being on K2, but out of the team he was by far the strongest, and if the team was better lead and more experienced, he would probably have been one of the first men to climb a 8'000m mountain.
The only problem I have with an otherwise outstanding read, is that the author uses too much conjecture to come to some conclusion in the end of the book. Still very readable and recomendable if you like adventure reads.
The book is written very personally as it was the author who discovered the remains of Wolfe decades after his disappearance. The book is well written and researched, using letters and diaries to give the book dialogue. It gives the history of the mountain and follows the teams arduous journey to just reach the mountain, and then how they set about attempting to summit.
The story is a tragedy because of the life of the men, but it is also a story of courage and will power, especially how a novice like Wolfe could survive for so long at high altitude and then still almost make it out alive. The author says that a lot was said afterwards that he was weak and had no business being on K2, but out of the team he was by far the strongest, and if the team was better lead and more experienced, he would probably have been one of the first men to climb a 8'000m mountain.
The only problem I have with an otherwise outstanding read, is that the author uses too much conjecture to come to some conclusion in the end of the book. Still very readable and recomendable if you like adventure reads.
January 7, 2022
I really love Jennifer Jordan's writing. Her narrative non-fiction reads like fiction, with the figures involved rendered with so much texture and depth that they feel so real. Meaning: Jordan doesn't skim over the rough edges of real people. You get their strengths and their highs as well as their lows and messiness. People are complex, rarely just one thing, and Jordan writes historical non-fiction that focuses on that.
Of course it definitely felt like this book required more editorializing than her previous one, Savage Summit, since the figures involved are buried deeper in history with fewer contemporaries alive to tell the story. Still, you feel like you're there on the mountain with this cast of characters, some more vivid than others. I did have moments where Tony or Joe would come up and I couldn't remember the exact context of who they were--the initial explanation from earlier in the book, read a week earlier, wasn't front of mind.
Just as with Savage Summit, Jordan puts you right on the mountain. You feel the cold and the exhaustion. You get a glimpse of summit fever and the great costs of ego on the mountain. It's vivid and harrowing and moving. I appreciated her nuanced portrait of a man I hadn't really known of before, but apparently was painted in a very specific way by history for a long time.
This one isn't as much of a rave/perfect 5 star for me as Savage Summit, but I still enjoyed it so much it feels weird to give it "only" 4 stars. I'll definitely be picking up more by Jordan. I just enjoy her writing so much.
Of course it definitely felt like this book required more editorializing than her previous one, Savage Summit, since the figures involved are buried deeper in history with fewer contemporaries alive to tell the story. Still, you feel like you're there on the mountain with this cast of characters, some more vivid than others. I did have moments where Tony or Joe would come up and I couldn't remember the exact context of who they were--the initial explanation from earlier in the book, read a week earlier, wasn't front of mind.
Just as with Savage Summit, Jordan puts you right on the mountain. You feel the cold and the exhaustion. You get a glimpse of summit fever and the great costs of ego on the mountain. It's vivid and harrowing and moving. I appreciated her nuanced portrait of a man I hadn't really known of before, but apparently was painted in a very specific way by history for a long time.
This one isn't as much of a rave/perfect 5 star for me as Savage Summit, but I still enjoyed it so much it feels weird to give it "only" 4 stars. I'll definitely be picking up more by Jordan. I just enjoy her writing so much.
January 17, 2011
Three stars.
There were actually 4 men who died on the mountain: 1 American and 3 Nepalese sherpas. So while Miss Jordan may talk about Wiessner's ethnocentrism, she should also point the finger at herself.
Regardless, this was an engaging read; perhaps a good counterpoint to other books that have painted Dudley Wolfe as a clumsy oaf when in fact he was every bit as capable, physically and mentally, as anyone else on the team. The fact that he went higher than other more capable members of his team showed strength and passion.
It's particularly telling, in Miss Jordan's epilogue, of the character of those men in the team who came home. Cromwell, Sheldon, Cranmer, and Durrance were visibly affected by the tragedy. Wiessner, the team leader, blamed everyone but himself for the events that happened. He would talk only of his missed opportunity to have been the first man to step on the top of K2. Of Dudley Wolfe, the man he left on the mountain, he never said a word. What a guy.
It should never have happened, that a person should be left to die when there are resources available. Look at the 1953 K2 ascent: a perfect example of the testing of the human heart.
There were actually 4 men who died on the mountain: 1 American and 3 Nepalese sherpas. So while Miss Jordan may talk about Wiessner's ethnocentrism, she should also point the finger at herself.
Regardless, this was an engaging read; perhaps a good counterpoint to other books that have painted Dudley Wolfe as a clumsy oaf when in fact he was every bit as capable, physically and mentally, as anyone else on the team. The fact that he went higher than other more capable members of his team showed strength and passion.
It's particularly telling, in Miss Jordan's epilogue, of the character of those men in the team who came home. Cromwell, Sheldon, Cranmer, and Durrance were visibly affected by the tragedy. Wiessner, the team leader, blamed everyone but himself for the events that happened. He would talk only of his missed opportunity to have been the first man to step on the top of K2. Of Dudley Wolfe, the man he left on the mountain, he never said a word. What a guy.
It should never have happened, that a person should be left to die when there are resources available. Look at the 1953 K2 ascent: a perfect example of the testing of the human heart.
April 14, 2011
I enjoyed this book very much. Jordan did a great deal of research and it really shows... the only negative I had was about her portrayal of Dudley as some kind of exalted figure. I'd agree with her (based on her writing) that he wasn't simply a caricature of a millionaire, but I don't know if I'd go so far as to call him a hero either. He seemed more like a normal person with an adventurous spirit who met an unfortunate end thanks to a tragic choice of teammates and lack of communication.
I'd recommend this book to someone else though. I found the descriptions of early high altitude climbing fascinating, and in gritty contrast to the Savage Summit book of the 1953 expedition that followed.
I'd recommend this book to someone else though. I found the descriptions of early high altitude climbing fascinating, and in gritty contrast to the Savage Summit book of the 1953 expedition that followed.
August 6, 2015
It tries hard, and I wanted to like it, but for a nonfiction book The Last Man on the Mountain is way too heavy on the conjecture. I wish this book had more footnoted evidence, in general. There's a lot of fluffy fake dialogue about Wolfe and Wolfe’s family's hypothetical feelings. Also, I would have preferred that the author had disclosed what she describes as a close friendship with Charlie Houston early in the book, rather than saving it for page 277.
As others have pointed out, there are some offputting Westerner-in-Asia exoticizing moments (e.g., “Whether Dudley was still alive to hear it or not, the strange and beautiful tongue of the Hindustani language floated up the slope […]”). Lastly—and this is perhaps nitpicking—but weird fact-checking errors (e.g., sorry, but “snow foxes” don’t live in the Karakoram) and the grating overuse of the word “penurious” rubbed me the wrong way.
As others have pointed out, there are some offputting Westerner-in-Asia exoticizing moments (e.g., “Whether Dudley was still alive to hear it or not, the strange and beautiful tongue of the Hindustani language floated up the slope […]”). Lastly—and this is perhaps nitpicking—but weird fact-checking errors (e.g., sorry, but “snow foxes” don’t live in the Karakoram) and the grating overuse of the word “penurious” rubbed me the wrong way.
December 3, 2013
This is a sad and remarkable story. I'm fascinated by stories of mountaineering and the extreme danger of climbing the highest peaks, like K2. I certainly understand the desire to see the beauty of mountains but cannot at all understand risking my life to climb one.
There were so many reasons this expedition failed but none of them really belonged to Dudley Wolfe or the Sherpas who died trying to rescuer him. It is a compelling story of how not to run a climbing expedition, how not to let the leader's ego become a destructive force and how not to to abandon all the lower supply camps while climbers were still above them on the mountain. By the author's account, Wolfe was as much a victim of the extreme conditions as he was the victim of poor leadership. Many climbers die due to conditions beyond their control but not Dudley Wolfe. He was abandoned.
There were so many reasons this expedition failed but none of them really belonged to Dudley Wolfe or the Sherpas who died trying to rescuer him. It is a compelling story of how not to run a climbing expedition, how not to let the leader's ego become a destructive force and how not to to abandon all the lower supply camps while climbers were still above them on the mountain. By the author's account, Wolfe was as much a victim of the extreme conditions as he was the victim of poor leadership. Many climbers die due to conditions beyond their control but not Dudley Wolfe. He was abandoned.
September 25, 2010
Interesting story about the tragic attempt by an American team to climb K2 in 1939. The death of Dudley Francis Wolfe, a middle aged millionaire, after he was abadoned at Camp VII at an elevation of over 25,000 feet was the subject of great controversy and all of the surviving members of the expedition had different version of the events that resulted in tragedy. This book reminds one of the importance team work in the world of climbing the world's highest mountains.
March 6, 2018
Liked this story of Dudley Wolfe, the first man to die on K2. Well researched book. Would have been even better to get more closer to man himself and his thoughts but I guess there do not exist journals of his to achieve that.
August 11, 2024
Mountaineering, exploration, and shipwreck tragedies are my kryptonite, and this book was no exception. Thrilling, moving, enraging, poignant. Jordan has done a good man justice.
Millionaire Dudley Wolfe formed part of the ill-fated 1939 assault on K2 "led" by Fritz Wiessner, a disaster of poor funding, absent leadership, internal squabbling, and lack of preparation, followed by everyone lobbing grenades when it ended badly.
If you enjoyed INTO THIN AIR, I recommend this book, as well as just about every other book about K2, including BURIED IN THE SKY.
Millionaire Dudley Wolfe formed part of the ill-fated 1939 assault on K2 "led" by Fritz Wiessner, a disaster of poor funding, absent leadership, internal squabbling, and lack of preparation, followed by everyone lobbing grenades when it ended badly.
If you enjoyed INTO THIN AIR, I recommend this book, as well as just about every other book about K2, including BURIED IN THE SKY.
August 10, 2024
This book is the nut low. The first mountaineering book I've ever rated below a three star. Alas, you couldn't pay me to read another book by this author.
The Last Man on the Mountain....One star.
The Last Man on the Mountain....One star.
January 3, 2011
[Erratum: In this review, I state that K2 was first summited more than 20 years after the first full ascent of Everest in 1953. That is incorrect. K2 was first summited by an Italian mountaineering team on July 31, 1954, a little over a year after Hillary and Tenzing reached the top of Everest. The summit of K2 was not reached again, however, until 1977, by a Japanese expedition. The first American team to reach the summit did so in 1978.]
I've mentioned before that I have a fascination with books on mountain climbing, especially in the Himalayas. It all started with a trip to the IMAX theater to see "Everest." Here was an IMAX film crew, going out to film a nice trek to the summit, and they wind up smack in the middle of one of the worst disaster in Everest's history (and there have been some doozies). On a single day in 1996, eight people died on the mountain, including two of the most respected climbing guides in the small world that is high altitude mountaineering. The IMAX crew pitched in and helped with the rescue of others trapped high on the mountain--and filmed it all for what became one of the most gripping documentaries I'd ever seen.
I loved the movie so much that I kept going back to see it. Some time later, I discovered Jon Krakauer's book about the same expedition, Into Thin Air. Like the IMAX team, Krakauer was on scene by chance (well, who would have planned to be at a tragedy like that, after all), writing a story for Outside magazine. His book on the expedition and the tragedy has become the definitive account, although there have been several others (some written as rebuttals to Krakauer). It's a must-read for anyone who loves true-life adventure stories (which I didn't even know I loved until I read it).
Climbing Mt. Everest is exciting, but not extraordinarily dangerous anymore. Commercial tour companies lead dozens of amateur climbers to the summit each season. Kids as young as 13, blind teenagers, wealthy senior citizens--anyone in reasonably good shape and with enough money can have a shot at the summit. It is this annual traffic jam that Krakauer pinpoints as the primary cause of the 1996 disaster.
The second highest mountain in the world, known simply as K2, is another story. Nicknamed "The Savage Summit," K2 has had far fewer successful summits but proportionally more deaths than Everest (including an even worse single disaster where 11 climbers were killed in 2008, which is the subject of two separate books in 2010). A more technically difficult climb, the first ascent came more than 20 years after Everest, although adventurers had been trying for at least as long.
The Last Man on the Mountain, by Jennifer Jordan, is the story of one of the earliest expeditions in 1939, which is also one of the most controversial. The expedition was wracked by dissension and hostility among its members. It's leader, Fritz Wiessner, was single-minded in his pursuit of the summit, even if it meant risking his life and the lives of his climbers. And along for the ride--and largely bankrolling the expedition--was Dudley F. Wolfe, scion of one of America's wealthiest families. Although older and less in shape than most of the other climbers, it was Wolfe alone who was able to accompany Wiessner to the highest camp on the mountain. And there he stayed, even after Wiessner made his descent, the last man on the mountain and the first casualty of K2.
For many years, the common wisdom about Wolfe's death on the mountain was that he was an aged, out of shape dilettante brought to K2 only for his money. Jordan's extensive research and very readable account of the expedition goes a long way to rehabilitating Wolfe's image. Yes, he was rich, but he was no stranger to climbing or other risky adventures. He was a serious adventurer who understood his limitations--until he went where few men had ventured, out of his comfort zone to the Death Zone. Yet in the end, his death had less to do with his experience than with the lack of communication among expedition members and the obsession of its leader. Jordan gives a harrowing account of the early days of high altitude mountaineering, with no supplemental oxygen and primitive equipment. Nonetheless, this book is first and foremost a cautionary tale about what happens when ego becomes more important than teamwork and when human weakness is either ignored or allowed to dominate. Wiessner, Wolfe and their colleagues would have done well to follow the motto of Ed Viesturs, one of today's premier climbers: "Getting to the summit is optional; getting down is mandatory."
I've mentioned before that I have a fascination with books on mountain climbing, especially in the Himalayas. It all started with a trip to the IMAX theater to see "Everest." Here was an IMAX film crew, going out to film a nice trek to the summit, and they wind up smack in the middle of one of the worst disaster in Everest's history (and there have been some doozies). On a single day in 1996, eight people died on the mountain, including two of the most respected climbing guides in the small world that is high altitude mountaineering. The IMAX crew pitched in and helped with the rescue of others trapped high on the mountain--and filmed it all for what became one of the most gripping documentaries I'd ever seen.
I loved the movie so much that I kept going back to see it. Some time later, I discovered Jon Krakauer's book about the same expedition, Into Thin Air. Like the IMAX team, Krakauer was on scene by chance (well, who would have planned to be at a tragedy like that, after all), writing a story for Outside magazine. His book on the expedition and the tragedy has become the definitive account, although there have been several others (some written as rebuttals to Krakauer). It's a must-read for anyone who loves true-life adventure stories (which I didn't even know I loved until I read it).
Climbing Mt. Everest is exciting, but not extraordinarily dangerous anymore. Commercial tour companies lead dozens of amateur climbers to the summit each season. Kids as young as 13, blind teenagers, wealthy senior citizens--anyone in reasonably good shape and with enough money can have a shot at the summit. It is this annual traffic jam that Krakauer pinpoints as the primary cause of the 1996 disaster.
The second highest mountain in the world, known simply as K2, is another story. Nicknamed "The Savage Summit," K2 has had far fewer successful summits but proportionally more deaths than Everest (including an even worse single disaster where 11 climbers were killed in 2008, which is the subject of two separate books in 2010). A more technically difficult climb, the first ascent came more than 20 years after Everest, although adventurers had been trying for at least as long.
The Last Man on the Mountain, by Jennifer Jordan, is the story of one of the earliest expeditions in 1939, which is also one of the most controversial. The expedition was wracked by dissension and hostility among its members. It's leader, Fritz Wiessner, was single-minded in his pursuit of the summit, even if it meant risking his life and the lives of his climbers. And along for the ride--and largely bankrolling the expedition--was Dudley F. Wolfe, scion of one of America's wealthiest families. Although older and less in shape than most of the other climbers, it was Wolfe alone who was able to accompany Wiessner to the highest camp on the mountain. And there he stayed, even after Wiessner made his descent, the last man on the mountain and the first casualty of K2.
For many years, the common wisdom about Wolfe's death on the mountain was that he was an aged, out of shape dilettante brought to K2 only for his money. Jordan's extensive research and very readable account of the expedition goes a long way to rehabilitating Wolfe's image. Yes, he was rich, but he was no stranger to climbing or other risky adventures. He was a serious adventurer who understood his limitations--until he went where few men had ventured, out of his comfort zone to the Death Zone. Yet in the end, his death had less to do with his experience than with the lack of communication among expedition members and the obsession of its leader. Jordan gives a harrowing account of the early days of high altitude mountaineering, with no supplemental oxygen and primitive equipment. Nonetheless, this book is first and foremost a cautionary tale about what happens when ego becomes more important than teamwork and when human weakness is either ignored or allowed to dominate. Wiessner, Wolfe and their colleagues would have done well to follow the motto of Ed Viesturs, one of today's premier climbers: "Getting to the summit is optional; getting down is mandatory."
December 17, 2024
3.5 stars. Jordan transforms comprehensive historical research into a compelling narrative about a mistake- and hubris-filled expedition of K2 that, against all odds, resulted in some of the most impressive climbs and route-building on a relatively unknown but deadly mountain.
She focuses on Dudley Wolfe, one of the wealthiest Americans of the time (1930s) who volunteered as an emergency ambulance transporter during WWI, won awards as a sailing captain, and was a highly accomplished skier. Wolfe was convinced to join a trip to attempt a K2 summit led by an outspoken, hubristic, almost con artist-like German adventurer named Fritz Wiessner.
On this trip, almost everything that could have gone wrong or been poorly planned indeed happened. From the beginning, the expedition didn’t get some of the big talent Fritz was hoping for - many of the final climbers ended up being young adventurers with zero high altitude experience. As the underfunded trip was coming together, Fritz cut corners on purchasing important equipment, such as properly insulated boots for the climbers and Sherpas. Finally, Fritz showed wildly poor leadership and mistreated both his sub-leaders and the all important high altitude Sherpas/porters - leading to insubordination, miscommunication, and a complete lack of trust in Fritz’s leadership.
We know from the start that Dudley Wolfe does not make it down the mountain alive - that’s why Jordan felt compelled to write this book about him in the first place. But learning more about this expedition and how avoidable his death was makes the story even more tragic. Jordan really brings his story to life and tracks one of the most fascinating summit attempts in K2’s history.
Definitely recommend this one for those who like mountaineering nonfiction and compelling narrative nonfiction in general.
She focuses on Dudley Wolfe, one of the wealthiest Americans of the time (1930s) who volunteered as an emergency ambulance transporter during WWI, won awards as a sailing captain, and was a highly accomplished skier. Wolfe was convinced to join a trip to attempt a K2 summit led by an outspoken, hubristic, almost con artist-like German adventurer named Fritz Wiessner.
On this trip, almost everything that could have gone wrong or been poorly planned indeed happened. From the beginning, the expedition didn’t get some of the big talent Fritz was hoping for - many of the final climbers ended up being young adventurers with zero high altitude experience. As the underfunded trip was coming together, Fritz cut corners on purchasing important equipment, such as properly insulated boots for the climbers and Sherpas. Finally, Fritz showed wildly poor leadership and mistreated both his sub-leaders and the all important high altitude Sherpas/porters - leading to insubordination, miscommunication, and a complete lack of trust in Fritz’s leadership.
We know from the start that Dudley Wolfe does not make it down the mountain alive - that’s why Jordan felt compelled to write this book about him in the first place. But learning more about this expedition and how avoidable his death was makes the story even more tragic. Jordan really brings his story to life and tracks one of the most fascinating summit attempts in K2’s history.
Definitely recommend this one for those who like mountaineering nonfiction and compelling narrative nonfiction in general.
November 3, 2010
What a tragedy! If this happened in today's media the group's leader and the decision to strip the lower camps would bring on a murder investigation, not a whitewashed inquiry.
October 9, 2020
I have read a lot of books on mountaineering. But I am not a big fan of biographies in general, so if the book is more of a biography than an account of an expedition, some of it usually drags along for me. But I must admit that the early chapters describing Dudley Wolfe's life leading up to his date with destiny on K2 was very interesting for me. I don't know if it is mostly because it is well written (which it is) or if it is because it becomes apparent that who Dudley is, his history, his exploits and frame of mind leading up to the climb - are integral to the story explaining what happened and why it happened.
I have read other accounts of this K2 expedition and the main point always seemed to be that Fritz Wiessner was highly respected in the climbing community and that he came very close to reaching the summit of K2 that day, but that he turned around because of his Sherpa. (I was interested to learn that these Sherpas at the time were considered to be more like high altitude porters than the expert climbers we know them as today.) I didn't know much about the four men who died on that expedition. Writing accounts of mountain climbing can be sort of like world history. It is sometimes written by the victors so that, for example, you may not ever see Richard III as he really was. The more controversial stories of mountaineering expeditions are sometime presented only by the survivors, or by the expedition leaders (or the non-Sherpas). It takes quite a humble person to write a narrative that is honest and frank even when it involves their own weaknesses. Especially if your narratives help you to raise funds for your next effort.
Jennifer Jordan admits that she cannot present the final word on what happened to Dudley Wolfe during his last days, but I believe she has woven a story that is fair and probably largely accurate. People will dispute her version, if only because people always dispute every version of such accounts. We all have our own axes to grind. If her version is slightly skewed towards Dudley and away from all of those people who left him up there to die, then why not? It is apparent that his efforts, his bravery and his accomplishments have received very little credit over the decades up until this account.
I look forward to reading Savage Summit and any other book on mountaineering that Ms. Jordan cares to write in the future.
I have read other accounts of this K2 expedition and the main point always seemed to be that Fritz Wiessner was highly respected in the climbing community and that he came very close to reaching the summit of K2 that day, but that he turned around because of his Sherpa. (I was interested to learn that these Sherpas at the time were considered to be more like high altitude porters than the expert climbers we know them as today.) I didn't know much about the four men who died on that expedition. Writing accounts of mountain climbing can be sort of like world history. It is sometimes written by the victors so that, for example, you may not ever see Richard III as he really was. The more controversial stories of mountaineering expeditions are sometime presented only by the survivors, or by the expedition leaders (or the non-Sherpas). It takes quite a humble person to write a narrative that is honest and frank even when it involves their own weaknesses. Especially if your narratives help you to raise funds for your next effort.
Jennifer Jordan admits that she cannot present the final word on what happened to Dudley Wolfe during his last days, but I believe she has woven a story that is fair and probably largely accurate. People will dispute her version, if only because people always dispute every version of such accounts. We all have our own axes to grind. If her version is slightly skewed towards Dudley and away from all of those people who left him up there to die, then why not? It is apparent that his efforts, his bravery and his accomplishments have received very little credit over the decades up until this account.
I look forward to reading Savage Summit and any other book on mountaineering that Ms. Jordan cares to write in the future.
August 8, 2017
Sono stufa di sottolineare refusi e formattazioni garibaldine. Mi scandalizza come molti editori trattino l'ebook come prodotto di seconda scelta, scarto, al quale non serve dedicare nemmeno il minimo dell'attenzione. Questo è inqualificabile. Infinite parole spezzate col trattino come fossero a fine riga:"que- sto, pro- duttiva, soprat- tutto" etc etc.; "600,000" invece che 600.000, un paio di righe di una nota che si mescolano al testo e viceversa; "a causa dalla guerra" "uno più facoltosi d’America" e diverse altre piacevolezze simili. Anche la traduzione non mi pare accuratissima: una lingua tagliente diventa "la sua lingua biforcuta"!! (il traduttore ha letto troppi Tex). "piccolo, ostentato, autoritario" ostentato? o ostinato? "del famoso conduttore della New York Symphony," Conduttore o direttore d'orchestra? Und so weiter. (no, non l'ho piratato, l'ho comprato su amazon e regolarmente pagato)
La storia: parte lenta, la fa troppo lunga all'inizio raccontando genealogie di cui sinceramente interessa poco, decolla dopo circa 1/4 delle pagine. Dopo diventa interessante, almeno per chi pratica l'ambiente dell'alpinismo e dintorni. Non è un libro di avventura, è una cronaca il più accurata possibile di un famoso e contestatissimo tentativo alla vetta del K2 al momento inviolata, finito malissimo, che si trascinò in polemiche e accuse reciproche per anni. Sufficienti i contenuti, decisamente insufficiente la forma.
La storia: parte lenta, la fa troppo lunga all'inizio raccontando genealogie di cui sinceramente interessa poco, decolla dopo circa 1/4 delle pagine. Dopo diventa interessante, almeno per chi pratica l'ambiente dell'alpinismo e dintorni. Non è un libro di avventura, è una cronaca il più accurata possibile di un famoso e contestatissimo tentativo alla vetta del K2 al momento inviolata, finito malissimo, che si trascinò in polemiche e accuse reciproche per anni. Sufficienti i contenuti, decisamente insufficiente la forma.
August 28, 2017
As someone who typically reads a lot of nonfiction, I really enjoyed this book. As someone who has spent a lot of time with mountain climbers, I thought this book rang rather true to form for how some of them think and behave, and that includes adventurous millionaires. (Honestly, if you're going to be an adventurer, being a millionaire helps. A lot.) Jordan describes the people involved through an educated lens, both in mountaineering and in research. I found the book meticulously detailed where it needed to be, descriptive and insightful. The story was engaging, and her description of the geography of Dudley Wolfe's life and character was engaging. The book kept me fascinated right up to the end.
It's very difficult to piece together the action of an historic event whether one attended it or not. The depth of her research and her experience on the mountain resounds throughout the book, and it is highly recommended for those who have lived and loved amongst high peaks.
It's very difficult to piece together the action of an historic event whether one attended it or not. The depth of her research and her experience on the mountain resounds throughout the book, and it is highly recommended for those who have lived and loved amongst high peaks.
January 11, 2026
I was really torn on giving this book three or four stars. The author does a nice job with the very end of the book that does help endear the reader to Dudley. Overall, I found the book well written, but the story, told as accurately as is possible given the conflicting stories and lack of actual information about what happened, just doesn't have a positive arc. Ultimately, it seems to be a sad tale, mired in conflict among men. I would have liked to know more about the three others who died with Dudley, but perhaps there wasn't enough source material to represent them. Perhaps the author also wanted to highlight Dudley because of her discovery. I think it is good that the author took the detailed time to compile this book, but I am not sure how widely this story will appeal to the average reader.
May 16, 2020
Another great K2 history book by Jennifer Jordan, who, having discovered Dudley Wolfe’s remains, was eminently qualified to author it.
She recounts one of the Americans’ earliest expeditions to K2, led by the peerless Fritz Wiessner, and financial backed by Mr. Wolfe.
In the book, Mrs. Jordan debunks the myth of Mr. Wolfe as an incompetent, and induct Mr. Wiessner’s attitude, whose admittedly impressive efforts were undermined by his narrow-minded focus on the summit.
Some would even argue he abandoned Mr. Wolfe to his fate at the high camp.
A great account that has done much to correct a skewed perception of a controversial expedition.
She recounts one of the Americans’ earliest expeditions to K2, led by the peerless Fritz Wiessner, and financial backed by Mr. Wolfe.
In the book, Mrs. Jordan debunks the myth of Mr. Wolfe as an incompetent, and induct Mr. Wiessner’s attitude, whose admittedly impressive efforts were undermined by his narrow-minded focus on the summit.
Some would even argue he abandoned Mr. Wolfe to his fate at the high camp.
A great account that has done much to correct a skewed perception of a controversial expedition.
May 26, 2018
If you are a fan of books like Into Thin Air by John Krakauer you would probably enjoy this book. It is one of a large set of books about mountaineering, specifically on the high peaks of the Himalayas. It lacks some details that are present in books about more recent quests and the author has filled in gaps with some reasonable speculation about what happened on K2. As is common in climbs that end badly conflicting stories emerge about who is really responsible, but, at the end of the day climbing these mountains is dangerous. By 2010 eighty people have died attempting this climb.
December 21, 2024
A truly difficult read: I reckon that my knowledge and perception of the real men discussed in this book has thus far only been shaped by the author and the message she wanted to communicate. With that confessed: character is truly on display when it is tested, and the men of the expedition showed themselves to be not only bankrupt but also varying levels of dishonorable and despicable. The book describes the expedition as one fueled primarily by money and hubris. The only parts of the human spirit put on display are depravity and indecorum.
Dudley Wolfe is "the last man on the mountain." To me, he seems a divisive character as his fortunate upbringing engenders no pity and possibly some mild disdain....
He is described as "needing an adventure", "surrounded himself with the finest of everything," "a child who was born not with a silver spoon but the entire mine....". He was a failed nut and coffee trader who could not make a living, much less a fortune. "[h]e could never find the joy in mastering schoolwork that he did in sailing a boat, playing football, or trudging through the woods hunting elk and moose."...
And yet, as the story goes on, I found myself pitying him as the expedition leader showed his true colors. In my personal opinion, if the authors description if how things played out is entirely accurate, then there is no conceivable amount of humiliation and punishment due to Fritz H. Weissner that could be considered too much.
Alas, the most true and trustworthy idea the author conveyed: "Himalayan expeditions are lawless societies because they are totally without objective witnesses. Neither the men nor the altitude allow for rational, clear thought, to say nothing of memory failings weeks and months after the fact...the only bottom line is the loss of life, but even that is shrouded in mystery, shame, and, always, a lot of blame."
Dudley Wolfe is "the last man on the mountain." To me, he seems a divisive character as his fortunate upbringing engenders no pity and possibly some mild disdain....
He is described as "needing an adventure", "surrounded himself with the finest of everything," "a child who was born not with a silver spoon but the entire mine....". He was a failed nut and coffee trader who could not make a living, much less a fortune. "[h]e could never find the joy in mastering schoolwork that he did in sailing a boat, playing football, or trudging through the woods hunting elk and moose."...
And yet, as the story goes on, I found myself pitying him as the expedition leader showed his true colors. In my personal opinion, if the authors description if how things played out is entirely accurate, then there is no conceivable amount of humiliation and punishment due to Fritz H. Weissner that could be considered too much.
Alas, the most true and trustworthy idea the author conveyed: "Himalayan expeditions are lawless societies because they are totally without objective witnesses. Neither the men nor the altitude allow for rational, clear thought, to say nothing of memory failings weeks and months after the fact...the only bottom line is the loss of life, but even that is shrouded in mystery, shame, and, always, a lot of blame."
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
March 28, 2018
This is a wonderful historical recap of an ambitious but ill-fated climb of K2 in 1939. The lack of knowledge of the effects of high altitude, lack of preparedness for the different terrain (not Europe or the US), and poor team communication led to some unfortunate events on the mountain. This is a well written and informative book that outdoors readers will really enjoy. I'm looking forward to reading another book by Jennifer Jordan.
March 2, 2023
I enjoyed this nonfiction account of the life and death of American climber Walter and his climbing party’s harrowing and I’ll-prepared attempt to summit K2.
Although on an ill-advised trip with inexperienced climbing companions and an egotistical and fairly skint lead, Walter’s weeks of time spent above 4000 feet without oxygen and his attempts to help his fellow climbers manage the gear and ascents seems in some ways heroic.
Although on an ill-advised trip with inexperienced climbing companions and an egotistical and fairly skint lead, Walter’s weeks of time spent above 4000 feet without oxygen and his attempts to help his fellow climbers manage the gear and ascents seems in some ways heroic.
March 11, 2022
Another good mountaineering story about the ill-fated 1939 American expedition to K2. This one's focus is on Dudley Wolfe, the wealthy, quiet man who financially supported much of the trip but was left to die high on the mountain. Poor planning, poor communication, poor leadership and little knowledge of the devastating effects of high altitude on the human body.
October 6, 2022
This book seemed to read at times like a documentary and at others like a novel, I think I preferred the latter. The conflicts between the perspectives and memories of the major players were explained in great detail and interesting, but perhaps rehashed beyond utility. The tribute given to Dudley Wolfe in the postscript was, to me, a perfect conclusion.
October 12, 2022
Of the dozens of mountaineering books I’ve read, this is by far the most unique and well written. I greatly appreciated the research put into this work and was engulfed in every footnote. I don’t know how I only recently came upon this book after reading so many alpine books that tell the same story.
May 30, 2017
I enjoyed this book and finished it rather quickly. It focused more on the back story and what happened before/after the climb, rather then on the climb itself. I do not like how Jordan went back and forth on using character's first and last names. She should be consistent. She refers to Fritz as Fritz, then a few lines down as Wiessner, it was irritating.
October 19, 2019
Great Book
The life, adventures and death of an American mountaineer and competitive open ocean sailor who wanted to live a life full of passion The story of the 1939 K2 expedition and the man who was left on the mountain.
The life, adventures and death of an American mountaineer and competitive open ocean sailor who wanted to live a life full of passion The story of the 1939 K2 expedition and the man who was left on the mountain.
September 29, 2018
Sad and moving to read, and this makes me even more impressed by the successful teams who can make the trek.
November 17, 2019
I’m a sucker for a trying climbing adventure. This does not disappoint.
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