Noble Rot: A Bordeaux Wine Revolution

by William Echikson

"Echikson's understanding and explanation of how the business works...is fascinating and easy to swallow."―Michael Philips, Wall Street Journal For wine lovers the world over, Bordeaux is the center of the universe. But in the past two decades, revolutionaries have stormed its traditional bastions, making their mark―and their fortunes―modernizing the production and marketing of wine. Noble Rot introduces us to the figures who epitomize the changes sweeping Bordeaux―the noble family behind Château d'Yquem; a stonemason turned winemaker whose wine, made in a garage, sells for $100 a bottle; the Maryland-based critic Robert Parker, whose opinion routinely makes or breaks a wine; the New World operations that have used branding to undercut Bordeaux's supremacy―and delves into the mysteries of the legendary classification of 1855. 23 illustrations, map.

Genres: Wine, Nonfiction, France

288 pages, Paperback

First published May 1, 2004

Reviews

[Sebastien Lazardeux · Rating 1 out of 5]

So, since this website is called "goodreads," I should not mention this book. I'm slightly jealous that a journalist got some time and money to have fun tasting 2001 Yquem and other Bordeaux, so I may be slightly subjective.
But the message is terrible: "Thanks Jeff Davies, Bob Parker, and Michel Rolland for telling the world (especially these condescending west bankers) what Bordeaux should taste like. And long live the garagistes!"
I've heard all this before, was given no reason as to why I should agree, and incidentally prefer Margaux to St-Emilion. So this was not the book for me.
On the positive side, the discussion of the battle for Yquem was not bad.

[Molly · Rating 3 out of 5]

Informative, but disorganized. This book could have been vastly improved in presentation by a good, solid edit. Nonetheless, the content was certainly interesting!

[Linda · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting but disjointed.

[Mark · Rating 3 out of 5]

After the death of an old venerable lady resulted in a bank holiday, I wanted to pay my respects and ended up in a queue.... at the airport on my way to Bordeaux instead of Westminster Hall.

As I didn't have much time to plan this holiday and choose what books to read accordingly, I picked up one that fitted the bill closest. It was OK read; decent in places, but ended up focusing too much on unnecessary things.

Not an excellent vintage that's for sure.

[Ed Downs · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesante vía de entender cómo funciona la plaza de Bordeaux. Pará profesionales del sector del vino.

[Calum · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5. Interesting but at times scattered!

[J.P. Bary · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book weaves several threads, not all of which are equally interesting. Echikson's first thread is the relationship between Robert Parker and the French wine community, which is a complicated one. Eventually someone may chronicle this fascinating story in its entirely, describing the signal importance of Parker's work in Bordeaux to the early success of his career, the early breakdown of his relationships with the Burgundians and his more mature and lasting romance with the producers in the lower Rhone valley. What Echikson contributes to the saga are some insights into Parker's relationships with several of the producers he and the wine consultant Michel Rolland had a hand in bringing to international attention, as well as a fairly detailed look at the scandal involving his long-time assistant, who betrayed his considerable trust by operating a consulting business on the side that made liberal use of his stationery.

Where the book is most interesting is in its descriptions of the behind the scenes family and corporate struggles over Chateaux D'Yquem, perhaps the pre-eminent Sauterne. But the book doesn't only deal with the mighty and powerful. It also describes the efforts of one cooperative to successfully navigate the turbulent waters in which so many of the lesser producers in the area founder.

This is not a fast paced or gripping narrative, but a worthwhile read for anyone with a serious interest in Bordeaux and its wines. It's probably not the best place to start learning about them, however, as it assumes some prior knowledge of the subject on the part of its readers. In many respects this book picks up where previous books, such as Dewey Markham's 1855: A History of the Bordeaux Classification, or Nicholas Faith's, Winemasters of Bordeaux, leave off. It will certainly be better appreciated if one already has a fairly thorough understanding of Bordeaux.

[Ward Kadel · Rating 4 out of 5]

An outstanding look at both the art AND the business of making wine, in and around Bordeaux. Written in a very informative, yet conversational tone, it provides an inner look at the people and inner workings of an old world wine industry making it in a new world of wine. It also was the first to get me very interested in Malbec-based wine from Cahors!

[Nathan · Rating 3 out of 5]

The first half, which discussed the history of Bordeaux, the first growth estates, and new garagista wine makers was very interesting, but the second half of the book was sort of meandering and boring.

[Bob Peru · Rating 4 out of 5]

reading for work.
v. informative.