River Dog: A Journey Along the Brahmaputra

by Mark Shand

Birthplace of legends, embracing the great religions of Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam, the mighty Brahmaputra begins its journey as a tiny glacial stream high on the desolate plateau of western Tibet, and sweeps eighteen hundred miles through three countries, to end, as wide as a sea, in the Bay of Bengal. No one is known to have travelled its entire length, a challenge described by one explorer as the 'last great Asian adventure'.
In River Dog, celebrated travel writer Mark Shand chronicles his attempt to complete this journey. Undeterred by seemingly insurmountable political and geographical logistics and bureaucratic tangles, using superhuman patience, persistence and the black art of persuasion, Mark is constantly manipulated by the power of the legendary river, know in Tibet as the Tsangpo, in north-east India as the Siang, in Assam as the Lohit and in Bangladesh, by turns, the Jamuna, the Padma and finally the Meghna, the largest river delta in the world.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, India, Travelogue, Adventure

338 pages, Hardcover

First published May 2, 2002

Reviews

[Rajiv Ashrafi · Rating 2 out of 5]

The idea of traveling the entirety of the Brahmaputra is very enticing, which is why I’d originally picked up the book. And there was a dog involved! It also helped that a part of the book would be about journeying through Bangladesh, my home country. Sadly, I left disappointed because I instead got a book about walking and being condescending to others.

Here’s the main problem: Shand doesn’t get into the Brahmaputra section until at least two-thirds of the book. And even then, he doesn’t write much about the river. He focuses more on Northeast India, particularly Assam, which is an amazing place filled with interesting people. Shand does a wonderful job portraying the region well, writing vivid descriptions of the landscape and giving us a sense of school-boy wonder of the world.

Disappointingly, I found his attitude towards the people he comes across quite demeaning and condescending. His tone towards some people was incredibly jarring, and the way he erased the identity of a particular person irked me quite a bit. Additionally, it seemed to me he had made up his mind about Bangladesh before he’d even entered the country. I found it callous and disparaging.

Honestly, the best part was Bhaiti, the dog. The journey down the river felt like a distant second compared to his relationship with the dog and all the walking around he does. This book is a big skip from me.

[Wendy Holden · Rating 4 out of 5]

The dear departed Mark Shand comes across on paper just as he did in real life - an overgrown schoolboy embarking on great adventures. This book is one of his best as he takes the reader on an epic journey across India in the company of a much loved dog. Adorable.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

I think "A Journey Down the Brahmaputra" was the idea that sold the book contract. Shand doesn't actually get onto a boat on the river until 2/3 of the way into the story. First we get a trip to Tibet with a friend (sans dog), and a stay in Delhi, where the orginal "river dog" turns out not to be suitable. Then we meet meet the canine Bhaiti, with lots of travelling around Assam by helicopter, truck, etc. and male bonding aplenty. The actual boat trip within India excites our author greatly as the captain is a stoner, too - yay! Then it's a hurried trip through Bangladesh (no weed, but loads-o-hooch), which I found the most interesting part of the book.

Perhaps I'm being a bit harsh, but ... well ... you see, I didn't really care for the egotistical author very much. Getting back to the male bonding thing, he's delighted to have a male dog for company "as a break from 'all those women' back home" (1 wife + 1 daughter), whom he scarcely mentions, except that he might like to score some Bangladeshi pearls to have necklaces made for them.

[Anashuya Kakati · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is essentially a party book. Mr. Shand is a man with great connections. He used them all and had a 'yuppie' adventure down the mighty Luit. He never got to the tough parts of the Brahmaputra (Namcha Barwa and the likes) and neither did he write about any of the ethnic tribes who live a life off the river.

I still give this book 3 stars as being a Assamese myself, I feel grateful to him that he has shown great respect and love for the river. Not many authors of international repute write popular travelogue about Assam. And of course many of my parent's friends have been mentioned, so connection! :)

Its a good intro to Assam & North-Eastern India at large but a lot more could be experienced and written.

[Mbuye · Rating 3 out of 5]

Mark Shand's Journey down the enigmatic Brahmaputra is humorous at the same time as it is packed with information. His descriptions of getting together his equipment alone is worth a read by itself: the strong dog collar and chain he has been advised to buy is not available in India or Nepal, but after a desperate search in London's pet stores where such heavy duty items are banned, he finds what he needs in a sex shop, hiding under the name of a throat choke.

As the Journey envisages some of the most inaccessible parts of India apart from local and national politics, bureaucratic red tape, carsick dogs and canine psychological issues, tribal football fans, temperamental guides and cooks, as well as a meeting with the legendary Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, including the devastation of Jaipur House in Delhi, the book promises well for the actual trip. Nevertheless, despite the author's fondness for India, and especially the tribal hillfolk of the Northeast, there is a persistent touch of condescension, not to say patronage, towards both the land and its people in his writing.

Having said that, it has to be added that this was the perfect book for the arm- or wheel-chair bound traveller and lover of adventure, lover particularly of all rivers, and lover of dogs.

[Prayash Giria · Rating 5 out of 5]

River Dog might not win the critics’ awards, but it is definitely one of the more enjoyable travelogues you can read. Shand writes with an endearing mix of witty and snarky, making for a narrative that is unstuffy and very accessible. While there is definitely a bit of white-man-in-third-world at play (most notably in the casually privileged company he fixes for himself, and most glaringly in the closer set in Bangladesh), you do end up being engrossed by the chronicles of places that are barely written about even today (plus Shand criticises himself freely enough to absolve him of neocolonialist allegations). And then there’s the lovely under-story about Bhaiti the dog!

[Julian Walker · Rating 4 out of 5]

Adventure for the sake of it, wonderfully written, and entertainingly enacted.

From the stirrings of an idea, the lure of the Indian sub-continent draws the author back to undertake a journey fraught with bureaucracy, traditions and beliefs - but most of all a wonderful array of characters and his trusty mutt of the title.

Vividly describing the landscapes through which he traverses and keenly observing some of the more unusual sights, this is a lovely book, instantly immersing the reader into the enthusiasm of the expedition.

Boys own adventure.

[John Connolly · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are moments in this book where you want to pack your bags and head right there, it is this reason I gave it three stars. There are other moments when you want to scream as the author comes of as a typical English uppercrust type who without realizing writes condesendingly about some of the people he encounters. It is more a book about walking - badly, over rough terraine trying to get to the Brahmaputra, which he does for a little bit. Most of the book is set in Assam - a beautiful state. But some of the inuendo about the people on the island I felt was just unneccessary.

[Siân Miller · Rating 5 out of 5]

Mark Shand is an writer (and conservationist) favourite of mine - Travels on my Elephant, Queen of the Elephants and now River Dog are beautiful stories of his travels, and I hope Mark was as wonderful a person as his writing inplies. Sadly he is now dead, as I would have liked to have met him. Anyway, River Dog, the story of his journey down the Brahmaputra River is right up there with the other two books I have read. His other two books are on my bookshelf waiting.

[Kushal Kushlendra · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thoroughly enjoyable.

[Shridhar · Rating 4 out of 5]

Funny and informative for people like me who know very less about the North East India. Enjoyed to read about his relation with his co travelers and the dog.

[Mary Hennessy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Detail of crazy travel writer and explorer arranging his journey along the river brahmaputra, overcoming obstacles thru his extensive global network of great friends

[Anuradha Sarup · Rating 4 out of 5]

An easy to read and nice travelogue if, by now, a trifle dated and of a very entitled person travelling in the region.

[Cold Cream 'n' Roses]

A travelogue by the late Mark Shand, brother of Queen Camilla.

[Chrissie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I had pretty much the same opinion as John Speer's. When I read his review, that is when I remembered I had read this book about 10 years ago! I kept thinking - yes, exactly! So read his review.

[Rajendra · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting tale, told in not so good a style

[Andrew · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book - a proper adventure with a proper old-school adventurer.

[Jude Thomas · Rating 5 out of 5]

For me this was a book about the powerful relationship between man and dog, not about his river journey. That's the story I fell in love with.

[Nikki Balzer · Rating 1 out of 5]

I didn't get past the first quarter of this book. just wasnt doing it for me

[Claire · Rating 4 out of 5]

Pleasant read!

[Peg Lotvin]

River Dog is mostly about the trials and tribulations surrounding proposed trip down the Bramaputra River. Lots of border crossings between countries that do not trust each other not to mention a Brit with a dog wanting to go places people don't normally want to go. The dog is charming, the Brit may partake of just a bit more ganja weed than what is good for him.