There may be no other city in the world with as complicated an architectural history as Berlin. It is amazing that anything ever gets built in the welter of competing and conflicting historical narratives. There is the old, medieval Berlin, the imperial city of the Hohenzollerns, Weimar Berlin, Nazi Berlin, Communist Berlin, and now the modern city. Each of these previous epochs has its own proponents for historical preservation and, like an archaeological dig, in some cases you cannot preserve one layer unless you destroy the ones on top of it. Being a planning commissioner for Berlin must be an interesting job.
As if that were not enough, some buildings from the Nazi era remain not because they are loved but because it would be too expensive or disruptive to replace them, so an uncomfortable silence falls over their past. Some of the worst of the Nazi government buildings were removed, such as the ones containing Gestapo or SS cells where prisoners were tortured, and their previous locations appear to have been deliberately obscured. The signs that purport to show where these terrible things occurred are not, in fact, in the right place. In one case the actual location is an unmarked area beneath the parking lot of an apartment building.
Potsdamer Platz was once the busiest intersection in Europe, and was the site of the first traffic light on the Continent. However, when the city was divided between East and West after World War II, it was carved up based on local government districts established decades before, and Potsdamer Platz found itself on the border, on the East Berlin side. It had been heavily damaged by Allied bombing and the Communist government cleared everything away, turning it into an empty 200 meter wide killing zone to prevent those unsatisfied with the socialist workers’ paradise from voting with their feet. With the fall of Communism that empty land became valuable once again, and Potsdamer is now a bustling center-city neighborhood.
The book was published in 1997, and much has certainly changed, but some of the disagreements that the newly-reunited city was having are thought provoking. In the West we usually see Communism as irredeemably bad, a historical atrocity, and sure enough, the initial impulse of the West-dominated government was to remove all traces of Marxism-Leninism and its dismal decades. However, for the people who had grown up in the East, these were their childhood memories, the cultural artifacts that grounded their lives. The arguments were fierce between the Destroy and the Preserve camps, and when the book came out an awkward compromise had been reached where some of the statues and plaques were allowed to remain. With the passage of twenty more years, and the fading of the Communist legacy it would be interesting to see what remains of those artifacts. Perhaps they are still there, used as kitschy props for tourists to take selfies in front of. There is some humor in the thought that Lenin, an enthusiastic proponent of terror as an instrument of social control, has been reduced to a cartoon villain like Darth Vader.