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Au Revoir: Comida, Vino y el Final de Francia
Este libro es una guia confiable, bien documentada y escrita con gracia, para conocer la cocina contemporanea en Francia, y es de esperar que los cocineros franceses en algun momento pongan atencion a la pregunta de Steinberger: ""Que rumbo va a seguir la cocina francesa?""
320 pages, Paperback
First published June 1, 2009
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 50 reviews
July 20, 2009
Au Revoir to All That is a wide-ranging book on the rise and fall of French cuisine. I found the title, which I can only assume is a reference to the Robert Graves World War I autobiography a little stretched. I wouldn’t liken the decline in French cuisine to the loss of innocence in a war but getting over that I was prepared to see what longtime critic Steinberger had to offer.
While it is clear that Steinberger has a deep love of French cuisine and wine, I confess the first part had me thinking of the film Ratatouille particularly because of his descriptions of Bocuse and other French chefs who capitalized on their fame to build food empires rather than continue to work in their kitchens. For lovers of French culinary history I suspect the name-dropping of various chefs will make it read like a roman a clef for those who are less familiar with the French food scene I suspect it may be a bit tedious to follow.
Most problematic is that the book feels like a series of articles that have been put together to make a book so that certain information is repeated in multiple chapters and other times there are gaps in information between chapters.
Steinberger is at his most interesting when he discusses the rise of McDonald’s in France, now the second largest consumer after the United States, and the politics of real milk cheeses and wine displays. I found those sections well researched and fascinating. For the Francophile and gourmand this book is likely a must read for the casual reader it may not consistently hold interest but the chapter on “McDo” in France would interest anyone.
While it is clear that Steinberger has a deep love of French cuisine and wine, I confess the first part had me thinking of the film Ratatouille particularly because of his descriptions of Bocuse and other French chefs who capitalized on their fame to build food empires rather than continue to work in their kitchens. For lovers of French culinary history I suspect the name-dropping of various chefs will make it read like a roman a clef for those who are less familiar with the French food scene I suspect it may be a bit tedious to follow.
Most problematic is that the book feels like a series of articles that have been put together to make a book so that certain information is repeated in multiple chapters and other times there are gaps in information between chapters.
Steinberger is at his most interesting when he discusses the rise of McDonald’s in France, now the second largest consumer after the United States, and the politics of real milk cheeses and wine displays. I found those sections well researched and fascinating. For the Francophile and gourmand this book is likely a must read for the casual reader it may not consistently hold interest but the chapter on “McDo” in France would interest anyone.
July 14, 2009
I found Au Revoir to All That to be a fairly gripping discussion of the state of French cooking over the past 20-30 years. Steinberger considers politics, and issues of race, class, and modernity as he examines the changes in French food. With chapters on McDonald's, Michelin, celebrity chefs, and how the French government persecutes of artisan farmers, vintners, and cheese-makers, the book surprised me with its similarity to other books about eating in America. It is almost more depressing to read of culinary atrocity in France than it is to hear of it in my own country.
Steinberger does assume that the reader has a good deal of knowledge about French food and its icons-- at times, the book reads as though it's for 'insiders,' but I still enjoyed the read.
Steinberger does assume that the reader has a good deal of knowledge about French food and its icons-- at times, the book reads as though it's for 'insiders,' but I still enjoyed the read.
January 13, 2026
I found this book as the author is the same as my last book, and enjoyed his writing style. I thought this would be a very controversial book given its title. It is not indictment of French culture or cuisine (is there a difference?), but a discussion on the forces that are making the traditional French cuisine difficult to survive. The author and his wife are certified Francophiles. Seeming all they do is drive around France, eating, talking to chefs and Farmers. Yes he admits he has had a few bad meals in 3 star restaurants, but on the whole his life seems to be defined by French culture. The forces, as best I can derive are
- Politics. The economy of France never recovered during the 70s. New economic policies made it difficult for patrons to pay a 20% VAT on food, and reducing a work week to 35 hours made it difficult to keep a restaurant profitable.
- Michelin Guide. According to the author, trying to obtain 3 stars means lots of extra $ spent on making the restaurant look better, not so much making the food taste better. The guide invisibly forces all restaurants to look and feel the same.
- Celebrity Chefs. Once a chef reaches a certain level, he or she turns into a business person not chef over the stove.
- The world is changing. Much of France's identity is based on tradition, hence the tension. People are drinking less, no longer can take hour long lunches, and well there is competition from other cuisines.
My favorite chapter was on McDonald's. Oddly most of the chefs supported the idea. It filled a gap and they saw it as an opportunity. My favorite quote was from McDonald's extreme upper management, supporting the chain restaurant.
"But when you think about it, steak frites was the number one selling menu item for kids in French restaurants. You could say we're just giving it to them in a different way"
The book wanders quite a bit, it seems as though it's a series of long magazine articles, not a book supporting some thesis.
The book had dozens of interviews with chefs and farmers (cheese, wine). If you enjoy food, especially food that has defined a culture, this book is for you. My father would have loved this book.
- Politics. The economy of France never recovered during the 70s. New economic policies made it difficult for patrons to pay a 20% VAT on food, and reducing a work week to 35 hours made it difficult to keep a restaurant profitable.
- Michelin Guide. According to the author, trying to obtain 3 stars means lots of extra $ spent on making the restaurant look better, not so much making the food taste better. The guide invisibly forces all restaurants to look and feel the same.
- Celebrity Chefs. Once a chef reaches a certain level, he or she turns into a business person not chef over the stove.
- The world is changing. Much of France's identity is based on tradition, hence the tension. People are drinking less, no longer can take hour long lunches, and well there is competition from other cuisines.
My favorite chapter was on McDonald's. Oddly most of the chefs supported the idea. It filled a gap and they saw it as an opportunity. My favorite quote was from McDonald's extreme upper management, supporting the chain restaurant.
"But when you think about it, steak frites was the number one selling menu item for kids in French restaurants. You could say we're just giving it to them in a different way"
The book wanders quite a bit, it seems as though it's a series of long magazine articles, not a book supporting some thesis.
The book had dozens of interviews with chefs and farmers (cheese, wine). If you enjoy food, especially food that has defined a culture, this book is for you. My father would have loved this book.
August 15, 2018
With the exception of one or two chapters, this book was kind of a snooze fest. It was also guilty of some of the most extreme food and wine snobbery. It was written in 2009, so I can't help but wonder if it is just totally outdated at this point. I should have skipped this one.
June 25, 2009
This was an Advanced Reading Copy I won on a firstread giveaway on Goodreads.
I thoroughly enjoyed it. I learned a lot and it was painless;) I liked the writing style of the author. He gives a little history lesson of various influential chefs of the French culinary world. I had heard of none of them. Steinberger also taught me about the Michelin rating system. How it started and how it effects French chefs.
The back of the book says, "France is in a rut, and so is French cuisine." The author gives a little history of various French government policies that have adversely effected the restaurant business, as well as the wine trade, and artisanal cheeses.( I also learned a lot about Camembert). There are also many other factors which are mentioned.
Steinberger interviews everyone from chefs, to winemakers, farmers and the head of McDonald's Europe. His assessments seemed to be very fair. A favorite chapter was "The Last Gentleman of Europe" about Jean-Claude Vrinat.
Many restaurants are named and food descriptions given. I look forward to going to Paris, hopefully one day soon, and using this book as a reference. Steinberger describes food about as well as my husband.;) He truly appreciates it. He gives a wonderful description of a mille-feuille and where to get the best one.I don't even know what a mille-feuille looks like, just that it is some kind of pastry. My mouth was watering.
A favorite quote was by Fernand Point, a brilliant chef born in 1897. "It was Point who offered possibly the sagest advice on how to choose a restaurant: 'Go to the kitchen to shake the chef's hand. If he is thin, have second thoughts about eating there; if he is thin and sad, flee.' For the record, the six-foot four-inch Point tipped the scales at a jolly 365 pounds."
I thoroughly enjoyed it. I learned a lot and it was painless;) I liked the writing style of the author. He gives a little history lesson of various influential chefs of the French culinary world. I had heard of none of them. Steinberger also taught me about the Michelin rating system. How it started and how it effects French chefs.
The back of the book says, "France is in a rut, and so is French cuisine." The author gives a little history of various French government policies that have adversely effected the restaurant business, as well as the wine trade, and artisanal cheeses.( I also learned a lot about Camembert). There are also many other factors which are mentioned.
Steinberger interviews everyone from chefs, to winemakers, farmers and the head of McDonald's Europe. His assessments seemed to be very fair. A favorite chapter was "The Last Gentleman of Europe" about Jean-Claude Vrinat.
Many restaurants are named and food descriptions given. I look forward to going to Paris, hopefully one day soon, and using this book as a reference. Steinberger describes food about as well as my husband.;) He truly appreciates it. He gives a wonderful description of a mille-feuille and where to get the best one.I don't even know what a mille-feuille looks like, just that it is some kind of pastry. My mouth was watering.
A favorite quote was by Fernand Point, a brilliant chef born in 1897. "It was Point who offered possibly the sagest advice on how to choose a restaurant: 'Go to the kitchen to shake the chef's hand. If he is thin, have second thoughts about eating there; if he is thin and sad, flee.' For the record, the six-foot four-inch Point tipped the scales at a jolly 365 pounds."
November 3, 2011
Francophile Steinberger left his investment-banking job on Wall Street to become a journalist. Now, in addition to being a wine columnist, he writes about finance, economics, culture and . . . French cuisine. Au Revoir is a most entertaining history of French gastronomy that focuses on how and why French cuisine isn’t what it used to be. It includes portraits of iconic French chefs, visits to their restaurants, praise for McDonald’s from some of the same (they focus on the "fun" rather than the "fast" aspect), details about the power and influence of the Michelin Guide, “France’s culinary Bible” (one celebrated chef committed suicide when Michelin withdrew his third star). The author's distress at the slippage in French gastronomic traditions is infectious.
February 29, 2012
The author is a journalist who has a big interest in French haut cuisine. He records the downfall of French gastronomy over the past 30 years and explores some of the causes.
I liked how he placed French cooking in historical context. It made the tale of how the situation changed in France clearer. The tale is a cautionary one: many of the troubles of French gastronomy are caused by the socialist economic and political philosophy. Value Added Tax for French restaurant bills is 19.6% compared to the VAT for a MacDonald's meal: 5.5.%. Then there are the very onerous labor laws that discouraged restaurants (never mind other employers) to hire employees, despite high unemployment. It is discouraging and frightening to watch the US travel down this same path...
I liked how he placed French cooking in historical context. It made the tale of how the situation changed in France clearer. The tale is a cautionary one: many of the troubles of French gastronomy are caused by the socialist economic and political philosophy. Value Added Tax for French restaurant bills is 19.6% compared to the VAT for a MacDonald's meal: 5.5.%. Then there are the very onerous labor laws that discouraged restaurants (never mind other employers) to hire employees, despite high unemployment. It is discouraging and frightening to watch the US travel down this same path...
August 31, 2010
This was an interesting look at trends in France leading away from their predominance in international cuisine. Chapters explore the influence of McDonald's, the rise of the celebrity chef, the problems of the French wine industry, the problems of the French cheese industry, the rise of other areas (particularly Spain), the problems and ebbing influence of the Guide Michelin, and the resistance to foreign influences, while introducing many of the most famous chefs of history and current times and examining new directions. Not without hope for the future, this is a warts and all look at fine dining in France from an author who clearly loves his subject.
August 7, 2013
I enjoyed enough of this book to give it 3 stars but not enough for more. Especially interesting were the insights into a flawed Michelin system and transmission of different highfalutin chefs' attitudes about in versus out of kitchen development, star obsession (with ratings and franchising), and finally, that France could benefit from more foreign (north African,e.g.) presence in elite eateries. The chefs described I admired most were those who threw Michelin snobbery to the wind, stayed in their kitchens, and looked to consider a balance of past and future for inspiration. A revoir, but only to some of the rich French culinary tradition.
July 27, 2009
Prompted by a series of polemics announcing the death of the French table, Steinberger--wine critic for Slate--explores the rise and fall of the country's cuisine--and the social, political and cultural events that have shaped them. The book reads like a gastronomic travelogue, and the anecdotes are vivid, telling and, sometimes, tragic. It is, in the end, less a eulogy than a warning, with a glimmer of hope for the country's culinary prospects.
Above an abridged version of my review for Publishers Weekly
Above an abridged version of my review for Publishers Weekly
March 22, 2014
Though a bit cynical, this is a solidly researched and extremely interesting book on the evolution of French cuisine. Below the three-star Michelin gastronomic destinations in France exist some of the most creative restaurants on the planet. There are, however, macro trends that are impacting the overall french dining scene, and Steinberger rightly calls them out. Well-written book that anyone with an interest in food and history should read.
November 25, 2018
This isn't about French dishes, but rather a comprehensive look at French gastronomy from medieval times to today that's well worth reading for anyone interested in France and its culinary culture.
What was particularly interesting personally is that I've been here and remember so many things that are touched on in the book over the last decade plus - like the outrage when Tokyo got more stars than Paris or chefs turning down Michelin stars. But reading about them puts them in a more orderly context.
Steinberger covers a lot of ground from "McDo" to Taillivant to the 2005 Clichy car torching & ties it all coherently together. The writing is straightforward and clear, so you're not getting lost in a lot of heavy reporting. Steinberger has a knack for boiling bigger issues into easily digestible chunks.
I particularly liked the chapters on cheese and the new direction that French cuisine is taking. I wonder if the final conclusions are a little to naive or idealistic (but I certainly can't fault the sentiment)
I read this book when it first came out and just reread it again from cover to cover and enjoyed it as much or more the second time around. Also, it reminded my that the Michelin man has a name. (It's Bibendum!)
What was particularly interesting personally is that I've been here and remember so many things that are touched on in the book over the last decade plus - like the outrage when Tokyo got more stars than Paris or chefs turning down Michelin stars. But reading about them puts them in a more orderly context.
Steinberger covers a lot of ground from "McDo" to Taillivant to the 2005 Clichy car torching & ties it all coherently together. The writing is straightforward and clear, so you're not getting lost in a lot of heavy reporting. Steinberger has a knack for boiling bigger issues into easily digestible chunks.
I particularly liked the chapters on cheese and the new direction that French cuisine is taking. I wonder if the final conclusions are a little to naive or idealistic (but I certainly can't fault the sentiment)
I read this book when it first came out and just reread it again from cover to cover and enjoyed it as much or more the second time around. Also, it reminded my that the Michelin man has a name. (It's Bibendum!)
June 9, 2022
it's a good book, but unfortunately it's negative, and even though many points are valid and understandable the way of writing that has a sprinkle of snobbism left a bit of a strange aftertaste, to keep with the subject of the book.
It is very informative and many facts are interesting to read but I prefer a more positive way of writing, even when the facts mean that certain traditions are declining.
It is very informative and many facts are interesting to read but I prefer a more positive way of writing, even when the facts mean that certain traditions are declining.
August 12, 2017
This was an interesting book but I think it would appeal more to those who love French food and culture. He mostly talks about restaurants. I was hoping he would talk about French eating habits at home but he just mentions that women are too busy to cook and that young people don't give much thought to their food.
January 1, 2018
French cuisine- threats,changes, 'business chef's. CConstant of La Violin D'Ingres ++ his favorite. France is in a rut, and so is French cuisine. For the first time in the annals of modern cooking, the most influential chefs and the most talked-about restaurants in the world are not French.
Ça ne peut pas être.
Ça ne peut pas être.
April 28, 2019
Skimmed, did not finish. Mostly about the food not wine
January 3, 2020
One of my fav all time books on food or France or really pop culture and trends. Read this!!
August 23, 2025
A casual read, mostly interesting anecdotes and partial interviews, where if the responses didn’t have you salivating, the descriptions of the food would.
August 3, 2022
I think the autor made an extraordinary work of investigation: the restaurants, the chefs, everything was explained in such a nice way and I feel like a learned a lot about France gastronomic culture. However, I think it’s pretty obvious that the autor is a foreign figure and biased by it. For example: talking about mcdonald’s like the savior of France’s workforce and building his arguments with an interview with mcdonald’s ceo…honestly? is that a joke? are we ignoring the nutritional damage of fast food and its cultural / economic impact? couldn’t he find a history teacher or anthropologist to interview?
Or when he mentions the resistance to embrace globalization and that the should let go a little bit of its tradition, just…. no, I mean: food and its consumption are culture. Letting go your national dishes to imite Ferran Adria it’s not the best decision to make, not everyone should jump into whatever trend the restaurant world is on. And Keller, Adria, McGee and I don’t remember the other dude are just exploiting foreign cultures and tradition: no, other people heritage is not yours to sell; and food journalists need to be more critical in that, not just enjoy meals on nice restaurants and write poems to the chefs.
I could go on and on about the parts where I think this book lacks critical thinking… or where the autor is just too nice to american people and american culture (completely ignoring political/economic/cultural structures). I would love to see how the actor defines “gastronomy”, “cuisine” and “culinary” because those concepts are radically different and that approach obviously dictates the direction of the books. Lastly, I think that talking about food without considering foodways and only restaurants makes a incomplete analysis (even if we are just making an historical one).
Or when he mentions the resistance to embrace globalization and that the should let go a little bit of its tradition, just…. no, I mean: food and its consumption are culture. Letting go your national dishes to imite Ferran Adria it’s not the best decision to make, not everyone should jump into whatever trend the restaurant world is on. And Keller, Adria, McGee and I don’t remember the other dude are just exploiting foreign cultures and tradition: no, other people heritage is not yours to sell; and food journalists need to be more critical in that, not just enjoy meals on nice restaurants and write poems to the chefs.
I could go on and on about the parts where I think this book lacks critical thinking… or where the autor is just too nice to american people and american culture (completely ignoring political/economic/cultural structures). I would love to see how the actor defines “gastronomy”, “cuisine” and “culinary” because those concepts are radically different and that approach obviously dictates the direction of the books. Lastly, I think that talking about food without considering foodways and only restaurants makes a incomplete analysis (even if we are just making an historical one).
April 19, 2010
No definitive conclusions here but some interesting theories raised. I disliked his political introduction to each chapter ~ is it really necessary to bring the Taliban into a discussion about French gastronomy? I thought these intro paragraphs were a clumsy way to bring current events into the discussion about the socio-economic and political forces that have impacted the current "eating" climate in France.
Perhaps Steinberger felt the influence of Eric Schlosser, et al, and included an entire chapter about McDonald's but here with a focus more on immigrant youth and their eating habits rather than the problem of industrial farming.
Perhaps Steinberger felt the influence of Eric Schlosser, et al, and included an entire chapter about McDonald's but here with a focus more on immigrant youth and their eating habits rather than the problem of industrial farming.
September 16, 2010
I read a pre-release copy of this book, and while it started it well, I thought it went downhill from there. I think Steinberger is a good writer, and I really wanted to like this book. While I thought the premise was good - the decline of French cuisine - I felt he got lost in the details and never really pinpointed the problem or came up with solutions. I had to force myself to finish reading the book.
February 1, 2010
This is an interesting book, if a little bit plodding. The author basically contends that the French can no longer be looked to as the tops in culinary arts - that restaurants and chefs have been eclipsed by leading edge restaurants and chefs in other countries, particularly Spain. He traces the reasons for all of this, including France's adoption of fast food and its lack of support for its own culinary traditions.
October 19, 2011
Steinberger attempts to document the forces in France and food that have undone the country's dominance in all things food and wine. His primary culprit is the socialist regime of Francois Mitterand, but he also takes swipes at sacred cows like the Michelin ratings and the egos of celebrity chefs. While he may be taking his own opinion too far, he makes a compelling argument through his visits to the nation's struggling wine and cheese makers.
March 24, 2015
Is France really on the verge of a gastronomical decline or is there still hope of a revival and that what France is going through now is just a phase? It is simply shocking to me to learn that France is the second largest market in the world for McDonald's and that wine consumption is going down in France. France should hold on to its cultural heritage in gastronomy but it seems that Spain and Britain have caught up and are stealing the show.
December 27, 2009
while the general premise of the book was interesting, i felt that something was missing. michael steinberger is a solid writer and shares many great stories, however I was expecting a more organized portrait of what the actual issues are behind the decline rather than anecdotal evidence intermixed with each essay.
July 24, 2009
With erudite yet readable prose, Michael Steinberger chronicles the demise of the food culture of France. Bureaucracy, fast food, outside influences all come to bear on the issue. He doesn't offer a solution, but reveals a glimmer of hope in a young generation of chefs who are embracing the values of their forbears while looking to the future...
November 21, 2009
As I am reading this, I am thinking the title doesn't really match the reporting. It is not the "end of France". It is more a France in transition with food. Michael Steinberger hits on all of the aspects of what is going on in the food world in France. But so far, I don't see it as "the end of France"....maybe the ending will wrap it up.
March 12, 2010
Yeah, I had to like this book, given the subject of France, French food, French people and their attitude towards food. The author was a bit stiff, journalistic and generally old fashioned. The anecdotes were dry and crusty as day old French bread. Much better was Judith Jones' The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food.
July 27, 2011
A really good and semi-sociological review of the transformation of French cooking the the late 20th and early 21st century. The struggle between traditional haute cuisine and the emergent nouvelle cuisine was really interesting. The biographical vignettes are good, but the discussion of ties between political ideology, globalism and food is better.
August 15, 2013
Fascinating, and I really liked the style.
Most of the chapters can be read on their own, so I would recommend to anyone interested only in wine or cheese or Fast Food Nation or Michelin stars or the history of French cuisine, just read the chapters that appeal to you. Even the introduction is great.
Most of the chapters can be read on their own, so I would recommend to anyone interested only in wine or cheese or Fast Food Nation or Michelin stars or the history of French cuisine, just read the chapters that appeal to you. Even the introduction is great.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 50 reviews