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A Carpet Ride to Khiva: Seven Years on the Silk Road
The Silk Road conjures images of the exotic and the unknown. Most travellers simply pass along it. Brit Chris Alexander chose to live there. Ostensibly writing a guidebook, Alexander found life at the heart of the glittering madrassahs, mosques and minarets of the walled city of Khiva - a remote desert oasis in Uzbekistan - immensely alluring, and stayed. Immersing himself in the language and rich cultural traditions Alexander discovers a world torn between Marx and Mohammed - a place where veils and vodka, pork and polygamy freely mingle - against a backdrop of forgotten carpet designs, crumbling but magnificent Islamic architecture and scenes drawn straight from "The Arabian Nights". Accompanied by a large green parrot, a ginger cat and his adoptive Uzbek family, Alexander recounts his efforts to rediscover the lost art of traditional weaving and dyeing, and the process establishing a self-sufficient carpet workshop, employing local women and disabled people to train as apprentices. "A Carpet Ride to Khiva" sees Alexander being stripped naked at a former Soviet youth camp, crawling through silkworm droppings in an attempt to record their life-cycle, holed up in the British Museum discovering carpet designs dormant for half a millennia, tackling a carpet-thieving mayor, distinguishing natural dyes from sacks of opium in Northern Afghanistan, bluffing his way through an impromptu version of "My Heart Will Go On" for national Uzbek TV and seeking sanctuary as an anti-Western riot consumed the Kabul carpet bazaar. It is an unforgettable true travel story of a journey to the heart of the unknown and the unexpected friendship one man found there.
336 pages, Paperback
First published July 1, 2010
96 people are currently reading
1130 people want to read
About the author
Chris Aslan
6 books37 followersChris Aslan was born in Turkey (hence the name Aslan) and spent his childhood there and in war-torn Beirut. After school, Chris spent two years at sea before studying Media and journalism at Leicester University. He then moved to Khiva, a desert oasis in Uzbekistan, establishing a UNESCO workshop reviving fifteenth century carpet designs and embroideries, and becoming the largest non-government employer in town. He was expelled as part of an anti-Western purge, and took a year in Cambridge to write A Carpet Ride to Khiva. Chris then spent three years in the Pamirs mountains of Tajikistan, training yak herders to comb their yaks for their cashmere-like down. Next came a couple of years in Kyrgyzstan living in the world’s largest natural walnut forest and establishing a wood-carving workshop. Since then, Chris has studied and rowed at Oxford, lectures internationally, and regularly returns to Central Asia, having left a large chunk of his heart there. He's based in North Cyprus in a mountainous village overlooking the sea, and is overrun with cats.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 91 reviews
March 31, 2024
The author is British, but was born in Turkey, which explains his middle name. In 1998 he joined a NGO/Charity called Operation Mercy in Khiva (Uzbekistan) with the goal of writing a guidebook.
Known as Aslan in Uzbekistan, purely because it was easier to pronounce than Chris, he soon became interested in silk and carpets. Aware that that traditional weaving and traditional dyeing were becoming lost arts he then set about to establish a workshop employing local people to learn the trades and produce the dyes and weave carpets.
The designs were key, not mimicking the modern designs but returning to the 15th century Timurid designs (ie from the time of Timur, also known as Tamerlane, whose empire ruled over modern-day Afghanistan, Iran, and Central Asia) which were resurrected from miniatures that depicted the carpets as a part of the artwork. During the initial time in the workshop there was a lot of experimenting and working out of processes, but eventually carpets were produced and able to be sold. For the most part the workshop was able to avoid the corruption that requires bribes to be paid,including to guides who expected a 10% fee for bringing tourists to them. The workshop operated by paying the workers a fair wage (ie more than teachers or doctors, who need to supplement their salary with bribes) and making only a modest return, they operated a fixed price system.
As a part of his work, Aslan was welcomed into the community. Learning the language, respecting the customs and living with a local family, mixing in the bazaar, engaging with the local community while employing young people to apprentice in the workshop were all a part of this acceptance. 9/11 occurred during his time, although it became a propaganda tool for the government to seek out followers of 'militant Islam'.
As those in the workshop became more and more skilled Aslan turned his thoughts to a second workshop, this time making suzani or embroideries. These could be made into smaller items such as cushion covers or table runners, therefore able to be produced and purchased cheaper, as not all visitors were able to afford to purchase a carpet.
Included in the book are explanations of the authors side trips to Afghanistan to purchase raw materials for dyes and briefly his holidays in nearby countries, but more importantly are his explanations of everyday life in Khiva. Governmental control and human rights are a key factor to this, and as he explains in his Prologue, life becomes unravelled for him when he is refused re-entry to Uzbekistan after seven years of life there. This comes out of the blue, having left on a short holiday in Azerbaijan. This was not a personal affront, but the government was refusing to renew any NGO or charity worker visa's due to international pressure on civil rights, freedom of religion and corruption issues, but clearly had a huge effect on the author and his life.
In 2016 President Karimov died, and this apparently brought about reform, so hopefully this has brought with it improvements from the situations described in the book where literally any activity required bribes.
Enjoyable and interesting.
4.5 stars, rounded up.
Known as Aslan in Uzbekistan, purely because it was easier to pronounce than Chris, he soon became interested in silk and carpets. Aware that that traditional weaving and traditional dyeing were becoming lost arts he then set about to establish a workshop employing local people to learn the trades and produce the dyes and weave carpets.
The designs were key, not mimicking the modern designs but returning to the 15th century Timurid designs (ie from the time of Timur, also known as Tamerlane, whose empire ruled over modern-day Afghanistan, Iran, and Central Asia) which were resurrected from miniatures that depicted the carpets as a part of the artwork. During the initial time in the workshop there was a lot of experimenting and working out of processes, but eventually carpets were produced and able to be sold. For the most part the workshop was able to avoid the corruption that requires bribes to be paid,including to guides who expected a 10% fee for bringing tourists to them. The workshop operated by paying the workers a fair wage (ie more than teachers or doctors, who need to supplement their salary with bribes) and making only a modest return, they operated a fixed price system.
As a part of his work, Aslan was welcomed into the community. Learning the language, respecting the customs and living with a local family, mixing in the bazaar, engaging with the local community while employing young people to apprentice in the workshop were all a part of this acceptance. 9/11 occurred during his time, although it became a propaganda tool for the government to seek out followers of 'militant Islam'.
As those in the workshop became more and more skilled Aslan turned his thoughts to a second workshop, this time making suzani or embroideries. These could be made into smaller items such as cushion covers or table runners, therefore able to be produced and purchased cheaper, as not all visitors were able to afford to purchase a carpet.
Included in the book are explanations of the authors side trips to Afghanistan to purchase raw materials for dyes and briefly his holidays in nearby countries, but more importantly are his explanations of everyday life in Khiva. Governmental control and human rights are a key factor to this, and as he explains in his Prologue, life becomes unravelled for him when he is refused re-entry to Uzbekistan after seven years of life there. This comes out of the blue, having left on a short holiday in Azerbaijan. This was not a personal affront, but the government was refusing to renew any NGO or charity worker visa's due to international pressure on civil rights, freedom of religion and corruption issues, but clearly had a huge effect on the author and his life.
In 2016 President Karimov died, and this apparently brought about reform, so hopefully this has brought with it improvements from the situations described in the book where literally any activity required bribes.
Enjoyable and interesting.
4.5 stars, rounded up.
January 30, 2023
I have a special love for the 'stans' of Central Asia. Absolutely unique with rich history and a special mix of cultural traits from different civilisations, this region is fascinating to me. For Christopher Aslan Alexander, it was a job opportunity that turned into a lifelong passion. He first visited Uzbekistan in order to write a guide book in 1998, but quickly got pulled into a completely different industry altogether.
I would say Aslan's (that's what everyone calls him throughout the book) interest in regenerating the antique carpet designs of the Timurid era brings him not just success and fulfilment but also lifelong friendships and a special connection to the country that lasts till date. The book describes his journey through the process of setting up a workshop, sourcing materials, cutting through the red tape, finding new designs, and building relationships with the employees.
Though the focus of the memoir is on the workshop and its employees, Aslan also simultaneously describes life in Uzbekistan - both bad and good. He is able to actually become one of the crowd despite his foreign looks and status, and is accepted by everyone. I felt the affection the author had towards his Uzbek family and friends, which made the book very pleasant to read. It was also very interesting to read about the level of corruption in the country and how it affected daily life. I do wonder how things have changed 'since Aslan's time', since Karimov is now dead and his daughter Gulnara (the favoured successor at the time) appears to be in prison!
The book is a treasure trove of cultural nuggets, and has some political background as well. A few trips to Afghanistan to source materials give us further information about border politics and Afghan troubles during this time. After the 2005 riots, Aslan is basically exiled from the country and has some interesting experiences. However, he took time off to write this book and then returned back to Central Asia to work on other interesting projects. Hopefully, there will be more books!
I would say Aslan's (that's what everyone calls him throughout the book) interest in regenerating the antique carpet designs of the Timurid era brings him not just success and fulfilment but also lifelong friendships and a special connection to the country that lasts till date. The book describes his journey through the process of setting up a workshop, sourcing materials, cutting through the red tape, finding new designs, and building relationships with the employees.
Though the focus of the memoir is on the workshop and its employees, Aslan also simultaneously describes life in Uzbekistan - both bad and good. He is able to actually become one of the crowd despite his foreign looks and status, and is accepted by everyone. I felt the affection the author had towards his Uzbek family and friends, which made the book very pleasant to read. It was also very interesting to read about the level of corruption in the country and how it affected daily life. I do wonder how things have changed 'since Aslan's time', since Karimov is now dead and his daughter Gulnara (the favoured successor at the time) appears to be in prison!
The book is a treasure trove of cultural nuggets, and has some political background as well. A few trips to Afghanistan to source materials give us further information about border politics and Afghan troubles during this time. After the 2005 riots, Aslan is basically exiled from the country and has some interesting experiences. However, he took time off to write this book and then returned back to Central Asia to work on other interesting projects. Hopefully, there will be more books!
November 4, 2019
A Carpet Ride To Khiva is a story on at least four levels:
- what was involved in setting up and running a fair trade textile workshop in the Uzbekhi walled city of Khiva;
- exploration of the cultures and traditions of the Uzbekhi people (some funny, some appalling and some just interesting);
- observations on aid agency policies and practices
- and political corruption and injustice in Uzbekistan and its neighbours.
The Author:
Christopher Aslan Alexander is a British citizen born in Turkey and raised in Beirut.
After graduating from university he travelled for a while then went to Uzbekistan to write a guidebook, which fell by the wayside as he fell in love with Khiva, lived with a local family, learned the language and began to work with a UN agency to develop a traditional, fair trade carpet-weaving workshop. Even though he had no prior experience with carpet weaving or carpet history before he went to Khiva, somewhere along the line, he became an expert and an employer of more than 50 women and men in the carpet workshop.
The Book
A Carpet Ride to Khiva tells the story of what it took to recreate a traditional craft that had almost disappeared. He had to learn about natural dyes, weaving and embroidery techniques and designs, selling, dealing with officials and with the aid agencies.
We get some insight into the lives of the people he met, of local customs and every day life (not great for most people and even less great for women) and the difficulties of running a fair trade enterprise reliant on external funding (UN, British Council were two) in a part of the world where corruption is endemic and the state both ruthless and brutal.
Eventually he was forced to leave Khiva because he had not bent to the demands of corrupt officials, and went on to work in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, again on aid projects. He made mention of writing a second book about his experiences post-Uzbekistan but I can't find any reference to a second book.
In a 2010 interview he said:
‘While in Uzbekistan, I first started writing for the press as an outlet for the anger I felt at injustice happening around me. I wrote A Carpet Ride to Khiva because I needed a way of gaining closure on my time in Khiva, and I didn’t know what else to do.’ https://wordswithwriters.com/2010/10/...
The narrative unfolds chronologically, slowing down when things are moving along slowly and speeding up as rapid action on the ground is taking place. Yu get the feeling that things take as much time as they need in this book.
The most recent online reference I could find to Alexander is from 2017, where he appears to be back in England and working as an expert tour guide in Central Asia. The tour company website says that after 15 years living in the region he speaks ‘fluent Uzbek and passable Kyrgyz, Tajik and Pamiri, and has also immersed himself in the history, culture and traditions of the region’.
https://www.steppestravel.com/en-gb/a...
- what was involved in setting up and running a fair trade textile workshop in the Uzbekhi walled city of Khiva;
- exploration of the cultures and traditions of the Uzbekhi people (some funny, some appalling and some just interesting);
- observations on aid agency policies and practices
- and political corruption and injustice in Uzbekistan and its neighbours.
The Author:
Christopher Aslan Alexander is a British citizen born in Turkey and raised in Beirut.
After graduating from university he travelled for a while then went to Uzbekistan to write a guidebook, which fell by the wayside as he fell in love with Khiva, lived with a local family, learned the language and began to work with a UN agency to develop a traditional, fair trade carpet-weaving workshop. Even though he had no prior experience with carpet weaving or carpet history before he went to Khiva, somewhere along the line, he became an expert and an employer of more than 50 women and men in the carpet workshop.
The Book
A Carpet Ride to Khiva tells the story of what it took to recreate a traditional craft that had almost disappeared. He had to learn about natural dyes, weaving and embroidery techniques and designs, selling, dealing with officials and with the aid agencies.
We get some insight into the lives of the people he met, of local customs and every day life (not great for most people and even less great for women) and the difficulties of running a fair trade enterprise reliant on external funding (UN, British Council were two) in a part of the world where corruption is endemic and the state both ruthless and brutal.
Eventually he was forced to leave Khiva because he had not bent to the demands of corrupt officials, and went on to work in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, again on aid projects. He made mention of writing a second book about his experiences post-Uzbekistan but I can't find any reference to a second book.
In a 2010 interview he said:
‘While in Uzbekistan, I first started writing for the press as an outlet for the anger I felt at injustice happening around me. I wrote A Carpet Ride to Khiva because I needed a way of gaining closure on my time in Khiva, and I didn’t know what else to do.’ https://wordswithwriters.com/2010/10/...
The narrative unfolds chronologically, slowing down when things are moving along slowly and speeding up as rapid action on the ground is taking place. Yu get the feeling that things take as much time as they need in this book.
The most recent online reference I could find to Alexander is from 2017, where he appears to be back in England and working as an expert tour guide in Central Asia. The tour company website says that after 15 years living in the region he speaks ‘fluent Uzbek and passable Kyrgyz, Tajik and Pamiri, and has also immersed himself in the history, culture and traditions of the region’.
https://www.steppestravel.com/en-gb/a...
May 27, 2019
Christopher Aslan Alexander worked for 7 years with Operation Mercy, an NGO setting up a carpet workshop in Khiva. Here is his story about his life and work in Uzbekistan, with the odd visit to neighbouring countries in Central Asia.
I thought this book was a wonderful read as it has the magic to take you to a very different world from the comfort of your armchair. I loved how Christopher explained the culture and history of Uzbekistan. He made easy work of informing you about the contrasting cultures alive in Uzbekistan with it’s vibrant mix of politics and religion.
There are lots of great detail within this book, like using dog fat as a popular medicine for flu and onion juice as a common cold cure. Christopher got across the great passions people get from their workplace and explained in ways that are easy to understand, how silk worms produce silk, how carpets are made and how natural dyes can be used.
This book is full of amazing anecdotes about the people Christopher meets along the way. Anecdotes that will make you smile and remember them, about old grannies in a madrassah, toilet paper, bribes, donkeys, Breast feeding, vaksal/Vauxhall station, phone tapping, corruption and workplace fiddles,
His story is told in a light and entertaining way, for example…
Russians joked that if you wanted to see heaven on earth you should watch Uzbek TV - and to see hell on earth, you should actually visit.
...Of course the locals loved their television and became obsessed with a Brazilian Soap Opera. Christopher managed to convey the feel of Uzbekistan and how it is to live and work there. He became an active part of people’s lives in Khiva and was NOT a bystander snapping the odd photo. I loved how he described the nitty gritty of daily life in Uzbekistan and the many challenges he met doing the warp and weft in the carpet workshop.
I thought A Carpet Ride to Khiva was simply a joy to read. I loved the epilogue and the handy glossary at the end. The book seemed very real and I felt as though I had been there too!
It is great when someone tells you about their day job and you hear all the tricks of the trade and the moving trends. After a while you think “this guy loves his job” and so it is with Christopher and his carpet workshop.
I feel that A Carpet Ride to Khiva works really well as a book. It educates, entertains and has the magic to take you into another world without the hassle of accomodation, cost, employment or visas. I have no hesitation in giving this book the top score of 5 stars, even though I can’t get the thought of those poor donkey’s out of my mind.
A Carpet Ride to Khiva is available as an Amazon Kindle eBook and was written in 2010.
I thought this book was a wonderful read as it has the magic to take you to a very different world from the comfort of your armchair. I loved how Christopher explained the culture and history of Uzbekistan. He made easy work of informing you about the contrasting cultures alive in Uzbekistan with it’s vibrant mix of politics and religion.
There are lots of great detail within this book, like using dog fat as a popular medicine for flu and onion juice as a common cold cure. Christopher got across the great passions people get from their workplace and explained in ways that are easy to understand, how silk worms produce silk, how carpets are made and how natural dyes can be used.
This book is full of amazing anecdotes about the people Christopher meets along the way. Anecdotes that will make you smile and remember them, about old grannies in a madrassah, toilet paper, bribes, donkeys, Breast feeding, vaksal/Vauxhall station, phone tapping, corruption and workplace fiddles,
His story is told in a light and entertaining way, for example…
Russians joked that if you wanted to see heaven on earth you should watch Uzbek TV - and to see hell on earth, you should actually visit.
...Of course the locals loved their television and became obsessed with a Brazilian Soap Opera. Christopher managed to convey the feel of Uzbekistan and how it is to live and work there. He became an active part of people’s lives in Khiva and was NOT a bystander snapping the odd photo. I loved how he described the nitty gritty of daily life in Uzbekistan and the many challenges he met doing the warp and weft in the carpet workshop.
I thought A Carpet Ride to Khiva was simply a joy to read. I loved the epilogue and the handy glossary at the end. The book seemed very real and I felt as though I had been there too!
It is great when someone tells you about their day job and you hear all the tricks of the trade and the moving trends. After a while you think “this guy loves his job” and so it is with Christopher and his carpet workshop.
I feel that A Carpet Ride to Khiva works really well as a book. It educates, entertains and has the magic to take you into another world without the hassle of accomodation, cost, employment or visas. I have no hesitation in giving this book the top score of 5 stars, even though I can’t get the thought of those poor donkey’s out of my mind.
A Carpet Ride to Khiva is available as an Amazon Kindle eBook and was written in 2010.
February 20, 2021
The author tells his story of setting up a silk carpet weaving operation in the Uzbekistan city of Khiva.
His book describes the difficulty in setting up the infrastructure and recruiting staff especially since he was also learning what was involved in carpet making including having to go to Afghanistan to buy the raw products for the dyes. He also describes the process of silk making, weaving and dyeing from scratch. The book covers plenty of Uzbekistan food, culture and history as well as the many people who he met, befriended or needed to avoid. His main frustration was the entrenched corruption.
This was a fascinating book of his 7 years of living and working in a place most of us can barely spell. His writing was excellent, entertaining and the book flowed with his experiences.
His book describes the difficulty in setting up the infrastructure and recruiting staff especially since he was also learning what was involved in carpet making including having to go to Afghanistan to buy the raw products for the dyes. He also describes the process of silk making, weaving and dyeing from scratch. The book covers plenty of Uzbekistan food, culture and history as well as the many people who he met, befriended or needed to avoid. His main frustration was the entrenched corruption.
This was a fascinating book of his 7 years of living and working in a place most of us can barely spell. His writing was excellent, entertaining and the book flowed with his experiences.
October 4, 2020
Well intentioned. Big of heart. Boring.
January 4, 2013
Read this for research on an upcoming trip to Uzbekistan. Very enjoyable and easy to get into.
My one quibble was that the author consistently calls women girls. Putting feminist reasons for this quibble aside, can I appeal to the author in the name of clarity instead? For example, at one part, he says that there were girls in the street. Without context (what were they doing in the street? playing? going home with groceries), I was not sure whether he meant girls as in little kids or women. Up until that point, he had used girls interchangeably with women so it's possible he could have meant either. My advice is that, while many women like the youthfulness implied in being called a girl, it's better to keep this to conversation rather than expository text where the meaning is confusing (and all that feminist stuff too).
Two other points that are not quibbles, just things I would like to discuss with friends: 1. Was the 2006 Kabul riot really not a car accident as the US media claims? Was the driver really "stoned, drunk, or crazy"? Was there a cover-up? 2. Why didn't the author marry Aksana despite the challenges?
My one quibble was that the author consistently calls women girls. Putting feminist reasons for this quibble aside, can I appeal to the author in the name of clarity instead? For example, at one part, he says that there were girls in the street. Without context (what were they doing in the street? playing? going home with groceries), I was not sure whether he meant girls as in little kids or women. Up until that point, he had used girls interchangeably with women so it's possible he could have meant either. My advice is that, while many women like the youthfulness implied in being called a girl, it's better to keep this to conversation rather than expository text where the meaning is confusing (and all that feminist stuff too).
Two other points that are not quibbles, just things I would like to discuss with friends: 1. Was the 2006 Kabul riot really not a car accident as the US media claims? Was the driver really "stoned, drunk, or crazy"? Was there a cover-up? 2. Why didn't the author marry Aksana despite the challenges?
October 9, 2024
Stumbled upon this at a secondhand book stall and picked it up as I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan- didn’t realise how much of a hidden gem this would be!
More than just a travel book, this is a really entertaining and informative account of the author’s adventures living in Khiva and opening a carpet making workshop. I learned a lot about the history of carpet making and the importance of local craft and culture. Loads of interesting reflections on the status of women in the country and (shockingly widespread) corruption.
The author’s connections with the community and his “Uzbek family” were super heart warming and my favourite aspect of the book. Now I just need to visit Khiva!
More than just a travel book, this is a really entertaining and informative account of the author’s adventures living in Khiva and opening a carpet making workshop. I learned a lot about the history of carpet making and the importance of local craft and culture. Loads of interesting reflections on the status of women in the country and (shockingly widespread) corruption.
The author’s connections with the community and his “Uzbek family” were super heart warming and my favourite aspect of the book. Now I just need to visit Khiva!
July 14, 2012
This wonderful book tracks the experiences of Chris Aslan Alexander in his charitable work setting up a carpet weaving factory in Uzbekistan in Central Asia. I knew Chris in the early 1990's and so this book was a bit of a catch up for me. But far more, it is a fascinating insight into the everyday lives of a broken country.
Chris initially went to Uzbekistan with Operation Mercy to help write a travel manual. He documents his experiences of culture shock, suffering through bitter winters and scorching summers, struggling with language, corruption and, ultimately, falling in love with the city of Khiva and its people. The main focus is the carpet weaving business set up under the auspices of UNESCO, but He skillfully weaves ancient and recent history into his narrative as well, painting a vibrant picture of everyday Uzbek life.
Chris writes with a personal and engaging style, drawing the reader in. By the end of it I wanted to visit! Anyone who has an interest in Central Asia, travel in general, or cross cultural development work will enjoy this book.
4 stars, I really liked it.
Chris initially went to Uzbekistan with Operation Mercy to help write a travel manual. He documents his experiences of culture shock, suffering through bitter winters and scorching summers, struggling with language, corruption and, ultimately, falling in love with the city of Khiva and its people. The main focus is the carpet weaving business set up under the auspices of UNESCO, but He skillfully weaves ancient and recent history into his narrative as well, painting a vibrant picture of everyday Uzbek life.
Chris writes with a personal and engaging style, drawing the reader in. By the end of it I wanted to visit! Anyone who has an interest in Central Asia, travel in general, or cross cultural development work will enjoy this book.
4 stars, I really liked it.
January 2, 2014
A great first book by Christopher. Provides a great overview of his time in Uzbekistan and the setting up of a carpet workshop. The detail in the book of the politics, environment and his work is very clear and wonderful to read. His enthusiasm for his work and the people in Khiva (apart from the Mayor) is loud-and-clear. You cannot help but hope for the best for him and the people around him.
I would recommend this book to anyone wanting to visit the country and especially Khiva. I doubt I will ever get there but thanks to Christopher I have a good idea of the place.
I would recommend this book to anyone wanting to visit the country and especially Khiva. I doubt I will ever get there but thanks to Christopher I have a good idea of the place.
November 17, 2011
Chris Alexander originally travelled to Khiva, a remote walled city in Uzbekistan on the route of the ancient Silk Road, to write a guidebook. But he stayed, mesmerized by a world of silk and forgotten 15th-century carpet designs – discovering indigo blue, madder red, pomegranate gold and the subtle shades of life in a desert oasis.
Alexander’s entrancing travelogue sees him stripped naked at a former Soviet youth camp, crawling through silkworm droppings, tackling a carpet-thieving mayor, distinguishing natural dyes from sacks of opium in Northern Afghanistan, bluffing his way through My Heart Will Go On for Uzbek TV and seeking sanctuary as an anti-Western riot consumed the Kabul carpet bazaar.
The result is an unforgettable true story of a journey to the heart of the unknown.
--------------
‘The fact the author lived and worked among Khiva’s inhabitants for so long distinguishes A Carpet Ride to Khiva from many travel books, as we glimpse life in a Central Asian “desert oasis” of silk, carpets, and extraordinarily colourful natural dyes.’ Financial Times
‘Too many travel writers visit Central Asia in a hurry, bulking out their own misadventures with a slice of the region’s colourful history. But the strength of this readable book derives from the author’s patience: after seven years in Uzbekistan, Alexander has provided a frank and penetrating portrait of the country, with all its contradictions and absurdities. He writes with clear-eye observation and courage, and never fails to emphasize the ingrained hospitality and random acts of kindness that remind you that, in spite of everything, Central Asia is still an exceptionally alluring place.’ Times Literary Supplement
‘Sitting down to read A Carpet Ride to Khiva over the festive season was like entering an oasis of peace and quiet ... like the carpet patterns so intricately interwoven and linked, Alexander’s account of his seven years in Khiva gives us a feel for daily life looped and crisscrossed with weddings, corrupt officials, journeys in rickety buses, gossip at the looms, domestic violence and village hospitality, all of it centreing on the carpet project.’ Irish Times
‘A Carpet Ride to Khiva is full of colour ... Alexander is a personable companion as he brings to life the ancient craft of carpet-making, blending the history of the Silk Road with characterful accounts of his team’s perfecting of traditional dye techniques (a search for madder root sent him over the border into post-invasion Afghanistan) and silk weaving (there’s an extraordinary description of silkworms devouring mulberry branches before spinning silk cocoons.)’ Metro
‘Most travelogues chart a journey, but in this case it is the author’s decision to stay put that lifts his book out of the ordinary. Christopher Aslan Alexander first travelled to Uzbekistan to research a guidebook about Khiva but, enchanted by this little-known region of Central Asia on the ancient Silk Route, he ended up becoming a resident. This memoir of his seven years in the city – during which he learnt the language, was adopted by a local Uzbek family and started a carpet-weaving workshop employing local women – lifts the lid on a world that is usually unseen by western eyes.’ BBC Lonely Planet magazine
‘[An] enjoyable account of the seven years the author spent in the remote desert oasis of Khiva, Uzbekistan’. Bookseller
‘This travelogue enriches our understanding of a little-known world, and as Christopher is taken into an Uzbeki family there are some nice touches as West meets East - like when he is hailed a mystic for predicting Bobby Ewing’s return from the grave as Uzbekis get their first taste of Dallas.’ News of the World
‘Unsparing in his censure of Uzbekistan’s repressive government, the author nevertheless paints a sympathetic and often humorous portrait of Khiva’s residents … More than just a tableau of Khiva, the book also paints a picture of a foreigner’s integration into the community.’ Wanderlust – book of the week
‘[A Carpet Ride to Khiva] serves as a primer on the mysteries of sericulture, and on the endless ramifications of the natural-dyer's craft. His pursuit of powdered madder root takes him deep into Afghanistan, whence he emerges after close shaves.’ Independent
‘Alexander is an excellent guide through the chaos of local life, and his writing is thick with his adventures in this walled city, drawing a vivid portrait of the domestic lives of his Uzbek hosts with great affection and humour, while also casting his eye over the history of trade on the Silk Road.’ Sunday Telegraph
‘The fact the author lived and worked among Khiva’s inhabitants for so long distinguishes A Carpet Ride to Khiva from many travel books, as we glimpse life in a Central Asian “desert oasis” of silk, carpets, and extraordinarily colourful natural dyes.’ Financial Times
‘An extraordinary tale of adventure and enterprise set in the heart of Central Asia, beautifully told, by a most unusual young man. Hopefully it will inspire others to embark on similar ventures.’ Peter Hopkirk, author of The Great Game
‘Everything about the carpet making process is fascinating, from the designs to the rate at which weavers are paid, and Chris describes it all in intimate detail … The book also paints a picture of the Uzbek way of life, both the day-to-day lives of Khivan families and the intricate workings of a government system which hasn’t quite made it out of the Soviet era.’ callybooker.wordpress.com
‘[A Carpet Ride to Khiva] is compelling, funny and sad, has great characterisations, lovely photographs, and would work as a really unusual gift.’ Reform
‘A deeply personal memoir, A Carpet Ride to Khiva is a magical and often hilarious story of one man’s adventure into the heart of the unknown ... While A Carpet Ride to Khiva reveals how contradictory and different daily life is in Uzbekistan, the reader leaves with a deeply satisfying, lingering sense of how similar we all are.’ Positive News
Alexander’s entrancing travelogue sees him stripped naked at a former Soviet youth camp, crawling through silkworm droppings, tackling a carpet-thieving mayor, distinguishing natural dyes from sacks of opium in Northern Afghanistan, bluffing his way through My Heart Will Go On for Uzbek TV and seeking sanctuary as an anti-Western riot consumed the Kabul carpet bazaar.
The result is an unforgettable true story of a journey to the heart of the unknown.
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‘The fact the author lived and worked among Khiva’s inhabitants for so long distinguishes A Carpet Ride to Khiva from many travel books, as we glimpse life in a Central Asian “desert oasis” of silk, carpets, and extraordinarily colourful natural dyes.’ Financial Times
‘Too many travel writers visit Central Asia in a hurry, bulking out their own misadventures with a slice of the region’s colourful history. But the strength of this readable book derives from the author’s patience: after seven years in Uzbekistan, Alexander has provided a frank and penetrating portrait of the country, with all its contradictions and absurdities. He writes with clear-eye observation and courage, and never fails to emphasize the ingrained hospitality and random acts of kindness that remind you that, in spite of everything, Central Asia is still an exceptionally alluring place.’ Times Literary Supplement
‘Sitting down to read A Carpet Ride to Khiva over the festive season was like entering an oasis of peace and quiet ... like the carpet patterns so intricately interwoven and linked, Alexander’s account of his seven years in Khiva gives us a feel for daily life looped and crisscrossed with weddings, corrupt officials, journeys in rickety buses, gossip at the looms, domestic violence and village hospitality, all of it centreing on the carpet project.’ Irish Times
‘A Carpet Ride to Khiva is full of colour ... Alexander is a personable companion as he brings to life the ancient craft of carpet-making, blending the history of the Silk Road with characterful accounts of his team’s perfecting of traditional dye techniques (a search for madder root sent him over the border into post-invasion Afghanistan) and silk weaving (there’s an extraordinary description of silkworms devouring mulberry branches before spinning silk cocoons.)’ Metro
‘Most travelogues chart a journey, but in this case it is the author’s decision to stay put that lifts his book out of the ordinary. Christopher Aslan Alexander first travelled to Uzbekistan to research a guidebook about Khiva but, enchanted by this little-known region of Central Asia on the ancient Silk Route, he ended up becoming a resident. This memoir of his seven years in the city – during which he learnt the language, was adopted by a local Uzbek family and started a carpet-weaving workshop employing local women – lifts the lid on a world that is usually unseen by western eyes.’ BBC Lonely Planet magazine
‘[An] enjoyable account of the seven years the author spent in the remote desert oasis of Khiva, Uzbekistan’. Bookseller
‘This travelogue enriches our understanding of a little-known world, and as Christopher is taken into an Uzbeki family there are some nice touches as West meets East - like when he is hailed a mystic for predicting Bobby Ewing’s return from the grave as Uzbekis get their first taste of Dallas.’ News of the World
‘Unsparing in his censure of Uzbekistan’s repressive government, the author nevertheless paints a sympathetic and often humorous portrait of Khiva’s residents … More than just a tableau of Khiva, the book also paints a picture of a foreigner’s integration into the community.’ Wanderlust – book of the week
‘[A Carpet Ride to Khiva] serves as a primer on the mysteries of sericulture, and on the endless ramifications of the natural-dyer's craft. His pursuit of powdered madder root takes him deep into Afghanistan, whence he emerges after close shaves.’ Independent
‘Alexander is an excellent guide through the chaos of local life, and his writing is thick with his adventures in this walled city, drawing a vivid portrait of the domestic lives of his Uzbek hosts with great affection and humour, while also casting his eye over the history of trade on the Silk Road.’ Sunday Telegraph
‘The fact the author lived and worked among Khiva’s inhabitants for so long distinguishes A Carpet Ride to Khiva from many travel books, as we glimpse life in a Central Asian “desert oasis” of silk, carpets, and extraordinarily colourful natural dyes.’ Financial Times
‘An extraordinary tale of adventure and enterprise set in the heart of Central Asia, beautifully told, by a most unusual young man. Hopefully it will inspire others to embark on similar ventures.’ Peter Hopkirk, author of The Great Game
‘Everything about the carpet making process is fascinating, from the designs to the rate at which weavers are paid, and Chris describes it all in intimate detail … The book also paints a picture of the Uzbek way of life, both the day-to-day lives of Khivan families and the intricate workings of a government system which hasn’t quite made it out of the Soviet era.’ callybooker.wordpress.com
‘[A Carpet Ride to Khiva] is compelling, funny and sad, has great characterisations, lovely photographs, and would work as a really unusual gift.’ Reform
‘A deeply personal memoir, A Carpet Ride to Khiva is a magical and often hilarious story of one man’s adventure into the heart of the unknown ... While A Carpet Ride to Khiva reveals how contradictory and different daily life is in Uzbekistan, the reader leaves with a deeply satisfying, lingering sense of how similar we all are.’ Positive News
December 17, 2024
Αυτό το βιβλίο με συνάρπασε! Ένας τουρκικής καταγωγής συγγραφέας περασε κάποια χρόνια στο Ουζμπεκιστάν (7!!), ώστε να στήσει το δικό του εργοστάσιο παραγωγής χαλιών στην Χίβα. Και αυτό όχι πολλά χρόνια πριν, παρά το 2000+ , αλλά με εντελώς παραδοσιακό τρόπο, ένας ξένος που προσπάθησε να κάνει την εργασία στο μικρό του εργοστάσιο δίκαιη σε συνθήκες και αμοιβή για τους εργαζόμενους του, αλλά κάνοντας χρήση ακόμα φυσικών μπογιών από την γύρω περιοχή, μιας και φτάνει μέχρι και στο Αφγανιστάν για να βρει αυτό που ψάχνει!
[spoiler] Το σημείο που τον απορρίπτει η χώρα γιατί δεν πάει σωστά με τα νερά της ηγεσίας με στεναχώρησε τόσο πολύ. Αυτός να κάνει τεράστια προσπάθεια να επιστρέψει στην χώρα, να πάρει βίζα, να γυρίσει με τις συνθήκες που θα ήθελε και όχι, να έχει πλεόν μπαν από την χώρα αλλά και από τις γύρω χώρες. Σπαραχτικό να θες να υπάρχεις κάπου και να μην μπορείς. Ακόμα χειρότερο να ξέρεις ότι βοήθησες στην ανάπτυξη ενός μέρους και αυτό αντί να σε ανταμείβει, να σε πετάει... φυσικά ευτυχώς όχι οι άνθρωποί του, αλλά το αποτέλεσμα παραμένει το ίδιο.
Συνολικά το βρήκα ένα φανταστικό βιβλίο για να δει κάποι@ έστω και λίγο την νοοτροπία των Ουζμπέκων, όπως και πολλών λαών της γύρω περιοχής και πώς αυτή άλλαξε μετά την πτώση της σοβιετικής ένωσης αλλά και πώς σιγά σιγά εκσυγχρονίστηκε.
Επίσης, πραγματικά αγάπησα ότι μέσω του βιβλίου περιγράφεται η τέχνη της κατασκευής χαλιών με τον παραδοσιακό τρόπο και ότι αυτός ο τρόπος διατηρείται ακόμα και στις μέρες μας, το βρήκα ελπιδοφόρο.
Ένα πραγματικό διαμάντι αυτό το βιβλίο, μου έφερε πίσω αναμνήσεις από ένα φανταστικό ταξίδι και ακόμα και για αυτό μόνο, του είμαι ευγνώμων.
[spoiler] Το σημείο που τον απορρίπτει η χώρα γιατί δεν πάει σωστά με τα νερά της ηγεσίας με στεναχώρησε τόσο πολύ. Αυτός να κάνει τεράστια προσπάθεια να επιστρέψει στην χώρα, να πάρει βίζα, να γυρίσει με τις συνθήκες που θα ήθελε και όχι, να έχει πλεόν μπαν από την χώρα αλλά και από τις γύρω χώρες. Σπαραχτικό να θες να υπάρχεις κάπου και να μην μπορείς. Ακόμα χειρότερο να ξέρεις ότι βοήθησες στην ανάπτυξη ενός μέρους και αυτό αντί να σε ανταμείβει, να σε πετάει... φυσικά ευτυχώς όχι οι άνθρωποί του, αλλά το αποτέλεσμα παραμένει το ίδιο.
Συνολικά το βρήκα ένα φανταστικό βιβλίο για να δει κάποι@ έστω και λίγο την νοοτροπία των Ουζμπέκων, όπως και πολλών λαών της γύρω περιοχής και πώς αυτή άλλαξε μετά την πτώση της σοβιετικής ένωσης αλλά και πώς σιγά σιγά εκσυγχρονίστηκε.
Επίσης, πραγματικά αγάπησα ότι μέσω του βιβλίου περιγράφεται η τέχνη της κατασκευής χαλιών με τον παραδοσιακό τρόπο και ότι αυτός ο τρόπος διατηρείται ακόμα και στις μέρες μας, το βρήκα ελπιδοφόρο.
Ένα πραγματικό διαμάντι αυτό το βιβλίο, μου έφερε πίσω αναμνήσεις από ένα φανταστικό ταξίδι και ακόμα και για αυτό μόνο, του είμαι ευγνώμων.
February 28, 2024
As it turns out, there are not that many books to read (at least, written in English) in preparation for a trip to Uzbekistan. How happy, therefore, I am that Christopher Aslan Alexander has given us this one!
He goes to Uzbekistan almost on a lark, a directionless young college graduate around the turn of the century. Almost accidentally, he finds a life and ends up helping start a carpet-weaving business, helping to revive lost knowledge like the use of natural dyes and old carpet designs, learning the language and finding friends and family there. Almost as randomly, he is ejected from the country and, heart-broken, writes this book.
What I particularly enjoyed is how frank it is about both the good of Uzbekistan -- the hospitality and warmth of its people, the fascinating history -- and the bad, like corruption, sexism, and primitive conditions.
He goes to Uzbekistan almost on a lark, a directionless young college graduate around the turn of the century. Almost accidentally, he finds a life and ends up helping start a carpet-weaving business, helping to revive lost knowledge like the use of natural dyes and old carpet designs, learning the language and finding friends and family there. Almost as randomly, he is ejected from the country and, heart-broken, writes this book.
What I particularly enjoyed is how frank it is about both the good of Uzbekistan -- the hospitality and warmth of its people, the fascinating history -- and the bad, like corruption, sexism, and primitive conditions.
October 19, 2015
I enjoyed this story of someone who went to Uzbekistan - originally to write (or translate, I can’t remember) a guide book, but who ended up starting up a carpet weaving workshop. It was interesting to read of life in Khiva, dye-buying excursions into Afghanistan and the resultant problems trying to bring back sacks of ground up materials (suitable for dyeing) past 2 sets of border police (and what one might let you get away with, the others won’t!), and the politics of life in the workshop.
I felt it was a bit slow to get started - and had to keep flipping back and forth to remind myself of who people were and why the author was wherever he was, but once I got into it, I thoroughly enjoyed it. 3.5 stars.
I felt it was a bit slow to get started - and had to keep flipping back and forth to remind myself of who people were and why the author was wherever he was, but once I got into it, I thoroughly enjoyed it. 3.5 stars.
June 30, 2011
Good overview of the author's time in Uzbekistan (around 9/11 and after) setting up and running a handmade carpet factory on behalf of a charity, although I did find it frustrating that he was obviously avoiding details of his personal life to such an extent.
This one makes a good follow up to Sheila Paine's trilogy of searching the globe in search of the history of a specific embroidery design.
This one makes a good follow up to Sheila Paine's trilogy of searching the globe in search of the history of a specific embroidery design.
April 24, 2022
Definitely worth it if you are travelling to Uzbekistan. Good description of the daily life in Khiva and how a foreigner can implement a carpet workshop. I had the chance to visit the workshop in Khiva and it is amazing when the book description relates to the reality!
February 18, 2016
The author went to Khiva in Uzbekistan with a development organisation to collaborate on a guide book. Development organisations sponsored his setting up a carpet making workshop and later one embroidering cushion covers. He stayed much longer than he first intended and only left, reluctantly, when his visa was not renewed.
There is a lot of detail about finding places for the workshops, workers, designs, silk, dyestuffs, etc. There is not as much detail about Uzbekistan and its people as I was hoping for, but there is some.
To describe Uzbekistan as a failed state implies that it might at one time have been a successful one and is misleading. It went from feuding feudalism, to vassal of the Russian Empire, to Soviet Republic to independence and a form of western capitalism which consists primarily of corruption, bribery, nepotism and not paying the workers. The workshops making craft goods for Silk Road tourists, with the minimum of exploitation and bribery are a step in the right direction, but the overall picture is a depressing one.
After his forced break with Khiva, the author went on to help with a similar carpet making workshop in Afghanistan (using wool instead of silk and again locally inspired designs) and then a project to make jumpers from yak hair in Tajikistan. I hope all the projects continue.
There is a lot of detail about finding places for the workshops, workers, designs, silk, dyestuffs, etc. There is not as much detail about Uzbekistan and its people as I was hoping for, but there is some.
To describe Uzbekistan as a failed state implies that it might at one time have been a successful one and is misleading. It went from feuding feudalism, to vassal of the Russian Empire, to Soviet Republic to independence and a form of western capitalism which consists primarily of corruption, bribery, nepotism and not paying the workers. The workshops making craft goods for Silk Road tourists, with the minimum of exploitation and bribery are a step in the right direction, but the overall picture is a depressing one.
After his forced break with Khiva, the author went on to help with a similar carpet making workshop in Afghanistan (using wool instead of silk and again locally inspired designs) and then a project to make jumpers from yak hair in Tajikistan. I hope all the projects continue.
November 13, 2022
A wonderful book to read in preparation for a trip to Uzbekistan. The author, based on his several years of NGO experience in Khiva, paints a vivid portrait of Uzbek culture and people, as he works with locals to set up a carpet workshop. Can't wait to experience Khiva, Samarkand, and Bukhara myself.
update: We traveled to Uzbekistan in May 2019, walked into the Khiva carpet workshop, and the author just happened to be there! He is now a tour guide based in London. We told him how much we enjoyed his book.
update: We traveled to Uzbekistan in May 2019, walked into the Khiva carpet workshop, and the author just happened to be there! He is now a tour guide based in London. We told him how much we enjoyed his book.
June 19, 2018
I read this while travelling around Uzbekistan and it provided a great deal of context and insight into the reality of life in a country that, as a tourist at least, almost feels too good to be true. Behind the facade of hospitality, beautiful architecture and fantastic food, this book shows how the population of Uzbekistan has been grappling with an almost completely dysfunctional economic and social system. In the form of journalistic reportage, Christopher Aslan Alexander describes how he established a small, largely female, carpet weaving workshop in the remote southern city of Khiva despite the country's extraordinary levels of corruption and profoundly patriarchal society.
Indeed, I found the sections on the role of women to be particularly shocking. In the Uzbek tradition, women are subjected to a brutal system of social conditioning that turns them into commodities to be traded and exploited in domestic conditions roughly comparable to indentured labour. Discipline in the household is enforced by older generations of women who use their status to perpetuate this patriarchal order for each subsequent generation. Horrifying as this is to anyone with a Western liberal mindset, it is nonetheless a dramatic improvement on the situation for women prior to the middle of the 20th-century, when all women were expected to wear full body horsehair cloaks that not only were incredibly painful, but also contained in-built handcuffs to ensure that women never enjoyed too much freedom outside of the home. Although the Soviets successfully eradicated the veil (in some cases, at gunpoint), Alexander gives the impression little else has changed since (at least up to the early 2000s).
In spite of all this, the book still finds much to celebrate in the culture of Uzbekistan. As any tourist can't fail to notice, the people are wonderfully friendly and tolerant of foreigners (indeed, in some instances foreigners are extended privileges not available to locals). The quality of craftmanship and architecture give the country a very specific civilizational identity and it is no surprise to learn that in the mid-19th century, the British began the so-called Great Game with Russia with the goal of protecting trading access to the Uzbek Kingdom of Bukhara. Much of the book is devoted to explaining the unique Uzbek origins of and methods for weaving, dyeing and other artisanal production processes.
The book also explores the challenges that a Westerner faces when facing the challenge of moving to a new and radically different culture. In this respect it joins a crowded field of memoirs written by young Westerners who move to the Third World to take part in international development projects. Carpet Ride to Khiva is better than most since Alexander very carefully keeps the focus on the people he meets and the broader challenges of managing an international development NGO in an increasingly hostile political environment. The final chapters, in particular, offer a sobering account of how precarious life can be as an international development worker, especially for those who choose to work in countries with governments that do not conform to Western ideals of democracy and openness.
On the other hand, I did occasionally find myself wishing Alexander was a little more introspective. I never really felt like a understood why he was so devoted to this project in Khiva. He mentions friends and relatives back in the UK but we never get much of a sense of their role in his life or how he felt being so distant from them for so long. How self-aware did he feel about his status as a Westerner managing Uzbeks in the production of their own artisanal products? And perhaps the biggest mystery is the extent of his romantic life in Uzbekistan. Apart from one coy remark at the end of the book, we learn nothing about more intimate aspects of his time in Khiva.
As an exercise in journalism, it is difficult to fault Carpet Ride to Khiva (although I must say I'm not a big fan of the title). But like any piece of journalism, it must be read in the context of its time. Since 2005, when Alexander left Uzbekistan, the country has undergone rapid modernisation. Internet access is widespread and major cities are now joined by a high speed rail network. The death of Islam Karimov in 2016 has unleashed a wave of reforms, including the gradual abolition of the Soviet-era visa regime. It would be fascinating to learn how these developments are impacting the life of everyday Uzbeks- in the age of Netflix the country presumably no longer schedules its public transportation timetables around the TV schedule for Mexican telenovelas. At any rate, I hope Alexander can one day return to finish off his story.
Indeed, I found the sections on the role of women to be particularly shocking. In the Uzbek tradition, women are subjected to a brutal system of social conditioning that turns them into commodities to be traded and exploited in domestic conditions roughly comparable to indentured labour. Discipline in the household is enforced by older generations of women who use their status to perpetuate this patriarchal order for each subsequent generation. Horrifying as this is to anyone with a Western liberal mindset, it is nonetheless a dramatic improvement on the situation for women prior to the middle of the 20th-century, when all women were expected to wear full body horsehair cloaks that not only were incredibly painful, but also contained in-built handcuffs to ensure that women never enjoyed too much freedom outside of the home. Although the Soviets successfully eradicated the veil (in some cases, at gunpoint), Alexander gives the impression little else has changed since (at least up to the early 2000s).
In spite of all this, the book still finds much to celebrate in the culture of Uzbekistan. As any tourist can't fail to notice, the people are wonderfully friendly and tolerant of foreigners (indeed, in some instances foreigners are extended privileges not available to locals). The quality of craftmanship and architecture give the country a very specific civilizational identity and it is no surprise to learn that in the mid-19th century, the British began the so-called Great Game with Russia with the goal of protecting trading access to the Uzbek Kingdom of Bukhara. Much of the book is devoted to explaining the unique Uzbek origins of and methods for weaving, dyeing and other artisanal production processes.
The book also explores the challenges that a Westerner faces when facing the challenge of moving to a new and radically different culture. In this respect it joins a crowded field of memoirs written by young Westerners who move to the Third World to take part in international development projects. Carpet Ride to Khiva is better than most since Alexander very carefully keeps the focus on the people he meets and the broader challenges of managing an international development NGO in an increasingly hostile political environment. The final chapters, in particular, offer a sobering account of how precarious life can be as an international development worker, especially for those who choose to work in countries with governments that do not conform to Western ideals of democracy and openness.
On the other hand, I did occasionally find myself wishing Alexander was a little more introspective. I never really felt like a understood why he was so devoted to this project in Khiva. He mentions friends and relatives back in the UK but we never get much of a sense of their role in his life or how he felt being so distant from them for so long. How self-aware did he feel about his status as a Westerner managing Uzbeks in the production of their own artisanal products? And perhaps the biggest mystery is the extent of his romantic life in Uzbekistan. Apart from one coy remark at the end of the book, we learn nothing about more intimate aspects of his time in Khiva.
As an exercise in journalism, it is difficult to fault Carpet Ride to Khiva (although I must say I'm not a big fan of the title). But like any piece of journalism, it must be read in the context of its time. Since 2005, when Alexander left Uzbekistan, the country has undergone rapid modernisation. Internet access is widespread and major cities are now joined by a high speed rail network. The death of Islam Karimov in 2016 has unleashed a wave of reforms, including the gradual abolition of the Soviet-era visa regime. It would be fascinating to learn how these developments are impacting the life of everyday Uzbeks- in the age of Netflix the country presumably no longer schedules its public transportation timetables around the TV schedule for Mexican telenovelas. At any rate, I hope Alexander can one day return to finish off his story.
October 26, 2024
very honestly, my granny gave me this book and i decided to start it only because i tell her i read it. the first 50 pages were tough bc he was onto settling in and i was hooked, but by the end of this book i felt the same sadness for him having to leave early and i really enjoyed the twist of historical/regional knowledge and personal anecdotes
September 17, 2019
Enjoyable insight into Uzbekistan that beats Lonely Planet hands down. Found the final chapters a little self indulgent. Ps- Couldnt afford anything from said carpet shop when I got there...
April 22, 2019
I liked very much this booked which I pick as part of the readings helping me in my Central Asia trips. I definitely liked much more the book than Khiva, which was a disappointment to a the point that upon my arrival I bought new tickets to anticipate my return to Europe.
The author could easily fall into long technical details regarding tapestry. But that doesn't happen. There are some, yes, but never boring. I found a good balance in the book, between personal insights, description of local life and of course, the carpets business.
I liked the writing style and finished the boom in the airport of Urgench, waiting to get a flight to Tashkent.
The author could easily fall into long technical details regarding tapestry. But that doesn't happen. There are some, yes, but never boring. I found a good balance in the book, between personal insights, description of local life and of course, the carpets business.
I liked the writing style and finished the boom in the airport of Urgench, waiting to get a flight to Tashkent.
November 28, 2012
Wow. There are no words. You just have to go ahead and read it.
Not only is Chris a talented author (though believe it or not this is his first book!), but he takes you along with him on the journey as he studies the art of carpet making and then proceeds to set up a carpet weaving factory that provides employment for those unable to work due to social or cultural barriers.
Chris is able to describe places, people and events with amazing clarity; painting a picture with his words so that you can see, hear and feel as he does. He has evidently worked hard in researching before setting pen to paper and yet the content does not feel heavy. He incorporates an incredible amount of historical and cultural detail within the text in a way that enables the reader to learn a vast quantity of information without realising it, as he weaves these gems into the storyline and introduces fact through the medium of everyday life as it was for him.
This book truly is a must-read.
Not only is Chris a talented author (though believe it or not this is his first book!), but he takes you along with him on the journey as he studies the art of carpet making and then proceeds to set up a carpet weaving factory that provides employment for those unable to work due to social or cultural barriers.
Chris is able to describe places, people and events with amazing clarity; painting a picture with his words so that you can see, hear and feel as he does. He has evidently worked hard in researching before setting pen to paper and yet the content does not feel heavy. He incorporates an incredible amount of historical and cultural detail within the text in a way that enables the reader to learn a vast quantity of information without realising it, as he weaves these gems into the storyline and introduces fact through the medium of everyday life as it was for him.
This book truly is a must-read.
March 25, 2015
Fascinating book by a young man who, knowing nothing about weaving or rugs, found himself i Uzbekistan (working on a project which was of little interest to him. He turned this into an opportunity to learn the language and integrate rather fully into the local culture and economy. His accounts of his personal relationships are wonderful. But of especial interest to me was his description of the rugs he helped design, the inspirations, the cooperative work with others. His project found a way to employ women and those who would generally be the last employed. And then - given the craziness of the local politics - he left on holiday and could not get a visa to return under any circumstances. Wonderful book.
May 8, 2018
I seldom do a lot of reading while I am traveling but this book was an exception. I enjoyed the writing, although it was a little helter-skelter at times, but the very best thing was when I found the shop that Aslan Alexander talks about creating and saw the carpet makers and Susana embroiderers at work. Like most of the tourists he refers to in the book, I couldn't afford a handmade silk carpet, although it was VERY tempting. They were gorgeous! The silk-dying was not on display for a couple of obvious reasons--it must be very smelly and pretty messy--and I didn't find the Susana shop that he created although there were two young women displaying this art in the courtyard of the Madrassah turned carpet workshop. If you ever have a chance to go to Khiva, this is a great book to read.
June 10, 2020
A deep dive into the blood sweat and tears required to set up something akin to a fair trade carpet workshop in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Although some of the details are maybe a bit too much for the casual reader, I enjoyed hearing about the process of "de-Sovietizing" the carpet making work, which involved a lot of painstaking research on traditional designs and natural dyes. Although I am more of a wool carpet kind of person, I was ready to head back to Khiva to do some shopping after reading this.
December 2, 2011
I read this book on a long drive day from Bukhara to Khiva and loved it. It felt a little bit awkward and self conscious at the beginning, but it was a fascinating look into a different world.
It was amazing to read it and then get to see the place. I got so sucked in to the book that I felt like I had lived in Khiva for seven years when we arrived. I got to meet the women in the carpet weaving shop and it was quite magical.
It was amazing to read it and then get to see the place. I got so sucked in to the book that I felt like I had lived in Khiva for seven years when we arrived. I got to meet the women in the carpet weaving shop and it was quite magical.
November 7, 2010
An incredible and truly inspiring tale. Alexander's vivid, direct prose is full of details that will educate readers about Khiva, Uzbekistan and the carpet-weaving craft without posing a distraction from his personal story.
Read an interview with Christopher Aslan Alexander from Words With Writers: http://wordswithwriters.com/2010/10/2...
Read an interview with Christopher Aslan Alexander from Words With Writers: http://wordswithwriters.com/2010/10/2...
October 15, 2013
A slightly different travel yarn about a guy who travels to Uzbekhistan to do some charity work and ends up setting up a carpet factory in Khiva. In his time there he gains some great insights into the local ways of life. Ultimately the book made me want to explore this region - always a good indicator that the travel writer has done his job! Great read!
September 30, 2017
Amazing book about Uzbekistan (not much literature of this country). Great introduction and it was awesome to visit the workshop itself in Khiva and some of the characters mentioned in the book.
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