New Doubleday, 1980. Elelphant folio [15x10½] 208 pp. Black and white photographs throughout. Cloth, jacket. First Edition. A magnificent collection of many of the 20th century's greatest fashion photographers (including Horst, De Meyer, Avedon, Beaton, Pen, and Steichen, as well as some interesting and bizarre paparazzi shots), selected and with a spell-binding text by Diana Vreeland. Now a classic in its genre. NF/VG; light yellowing to jacket spine and about a third of the front panel, light creasing, light bubbling at bottom front panel; light rubbing at bottom spine; near fine in very good or better jacket. LBB-E
Diana Vreeland was a noted columnist and editor in the field of fashion. She worked for the fashion magazines Harper's Bazaar and Vogue and the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Born as Diana Dalziel, Vreeland was the eldest daughter of American socialite mother Emily Key Hoffman and British father Frederick Young Dalziel. Hoffman was a descendant of George Washington's brother as well as a cousin of Francis Scott Key. She also was a distant cousin of Pauline de Rothschild. Vreeland had one sister, Alexandra.
I have always been obsessed with Diana Vreeland, ever since I was a little girl, and read my mother's "Vogue" magazines back in the 1960's when Vreeland was the editor. Then, when I became a Fashion Merchandising major, at CSULA, with more style than money I again turned to her issues in the school's periodical archives for tips on how to wear my predominately vintage wardrobe. Back then, in the early to late 1980's, you could go to a thrift store and find the 1950's and 1960's clothes I liked, for a song. With Vreeland's help I was able to create my own style that set me apart but also allowed me to always be appropriately attired for work, school and social occasions. When I read about her book "Allure", co-created with Christopher Hemphill and with a foreword written by one of my favorite American designers Marc Jacobs, I wasn't sure what to expect. Was it going to be a 1960's throwback with pithy, but humorous, quotes by Mrs. V. or was it going to be an inane picture book I'd read in a day? I'm happy to say it was neither totally nostalgic or shallow, instead it was an insightful, utterly personal look into the creative mind of a groundbreaking fashion icon. Arranged in an order where the images and text flowed in a seamless and dramatic way, the black and white photos taken by Man Ray, Edward Steichen, Deborah Turbeville, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Baron De Meyer, Sir Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst, George Hoyningen-Huene, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and others reflected the singular style of Diana Vreeland regardless if they were taken in 1910 or 1977. Through her selections I again became a student of fashion and photography and appreciated how the strict, linear 1936 photo of Mrs. Ernest Simpson by Man Ray "made her look like a painting by Titian" and how Deborah Turbeville's 1977 photo of "A Givenchy Dress" resembles Edward Steichen's 1926 photo of "Duchesse de Gremont". She reminded me, in "Allure", that while style is fluid and "elegance might be about refusal" the individual quest for self-expression is what dressing well is all about.
This photo collection is a celebration of Vreeland's search for "an emanation of personality". It is a retrospective of 20thc portraiture with works by famous (and even anonymous) photographers covering the worlds of society, fashion, theatre, art and some everyday anonymous persons. I thought I would enjoy some great photography ... and then ... I was drawn into the accompanying essays. One of my favorites is very succinct and soooo: "If you knew Garbo, if you'd ever been to a Garbo dinner, meaning you're three or five at the most ... but don't let me go grand on you. I'm only talking about the way she holds her mouth when she's talking to you. I can't say what it is she does. If I could say it, I could do it myself."
"(Mrs Vreeland:) Allure is a word very few people use nowadays," she said recently, "but it's something that exists. Allure 'holds' you, doesn't it? Whether it's a gaze or a glance in the street or a face in the crowd or someone sitting opposite you at lunch...you are 'held'. ... Now I think it's something around you," she said, "like a perfume or like a scent. It's like a memory ... it 'pervades'. " Christopher Hemphill, Allure
I've always adored Diana Vreeland, and added this to my list immediately after reading her autobiography several years ago. Unfortunately it was out of print and I couldn't nab a copy, but the Hennepin County Library system finally got this and I devoured it. Vreeland's uncanny eye for the exciting, outlandish, almost architectural perspective of fashion photography is stunningly encapsulated in these photos, and the intermittent narration from her point of view is the crowning touch. Anyone who is a fan of fashion magazines or just beautiful things will love this book, and history buffs will also find a lot to cherish - there are some obscure photos and anecdotal stories about forgotten historical figures that are truly delightful. Just a fun, awesome read for the holiday season!
I discovered this book while searching for the following quote online: "I think water is God’s tranquilizer. To be in it, to drink it, to look at it. And to be a surfer. Ah, to me it would be the most wonderful thing. I’m sorry I just didn’t make it." - Diana Vreeland FROM: http://ramvms.tumblr.com/post/1480627...
Es lo más cercano a entrar en la mente de Vreeland y entender su proceso creativo. El libro es una colección de fotos, anécdotas y comentarios sobre lo que es fascinante para la autora. No siempre es fácil encontrarle lo bonito pero el mero hecho de hojearlo es un estímulo visual. Debería ser un libro obligado para cualquier fanático de la moda -que vaya en serio- y, particularmente, para cualquier editor que no quiera incluir contenidos mediocres. Cof, cof.
Vreeland! Tell stories! The story any fashion-interested or mostly Arts&Fashion photographers would 'kill' to live! Vreeland, gave a precise definition, to what Allure is, or has been through out time!
This is a magnificent magnificent magnificent book. Having Vreeland's text beside the amazing photographs is like having a conversation with her. It is also a master class on lay-out.
I bought it for the photos and just as well. It is universally acknowledged that D.V. had "allure" herself. It is also acknowledged - perhaps not so universally - that children of the well-to-do have better chances of growing up self-assured. Ms. D.V. was one such child.
She grew up mingling with UK kings and queens (and all the aristocracy in between) and then moved to NY and was offered a job by a high society friend because of her style and elegance. She did not apply for any job but it was offered to her. It's inevitable that somebody with that background would be at least a little bit entitled and snobbish and I guess D.V. was both.
This doesn't mean that she didn't do a good job or didn't have great taste, it's just that her world is so far away from mine that I can hardly relate to the written part of the book. It's in English but it seems a foreign language and I do not understand half of what D.V. meant with her extravagant commentary.
The photos are another matter. Most I'd never seen, some are not particularly good but are there because they meant something to D.V. They're an uneven bunch of portraits of the rich and not so famous (forgotten celebrities of the Roaring Twenties, noblewomen from all over the world); body parts (Ms. D. loved "limbs"); scary portraits of Maria Callas and the invitable fashion shots, rigorously in B&W.
If one must find a common thread, it's the theatricality of the poses of most subjects in photos dating from the 20s and 30s (the majority). Only a handful of pictures date from the 60s and 70s. I am familiar with Hoyningen-Huene fashion photos and one of his most famous is in the book (the models on the diving board) with others from the same session. There are also some good photos by Avedon and Baron De Meyer. Among the most puzzling, blurred, low quality images Passing Steamer (Haviland) and Miyake mannequin (Krieger). It beats me what sort of allure they're supposed to exude.
"...her ability to see how someone unconventionally beautiful could be so much more fascinating and alluring than your typical beauty. Or to see and be able to appreciate someone deeply eccentric. To find beauty in imperfection, in flaw, to go against the common popular opinion of what is good, what is right..." - Marc Jacobs (forward describing Diana Vreeland). Jacobs was describing Vreeland's thoughts on art/beauty, but he just as well could have been describing Vreeland herself, for it is for these reasons that she is so utterly fascinating, and continues to be so all these years later. This was a visual treat, with the added bonus of having Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis as editor; along with the twist of including the incomparable Maria Callas and Marilyn Monroe. One can't help wondering what the editor thought about these inclusions?