Everest : Mountain Without Mercy

by Broughton Coburn, Tim Cahill (Introduction)

David Breashears, the first American to scale Everest twice, was a veteran of nine previous Himalayan filmmaking expeditions when he agreed to lead what became his most challenging filmmaking experience. The expedition was organized by large-format motion picture producer MacGillivray Freeman Films and was comprised of an international team of climbers. Their goal was to carry a specially modified 48-pound IMAX motion picture camera to the summit of Everest and return from the top of the world with the first footage ever shot there in this spectacular format. A stunningly illustrated portrait of life and death in a hostile, high-altitude environment where no human can survive for long, Everest invites you to join Breashears, his climbers, and his crew as they make photographic history. Author Broughton Coburn traces each step of the team's progress toward a rendezvous with history - and suddenly you're on the scene of a disaster that riveted the world's attention. Everest incorporates a first-person, on-the-scene account of the most tragic event in the mountain's history: The May 10, 1996, blizzard that claimed eight lives, including two of the world's top climbing expedition leaders. It is a chronicle of the courage and cooperation that resulted in the rescue of several men and women who were trapped on the lethal, windswept slopes. Everest is also a tale of triumph. In a struggle to overcome both the physical and emotional effects of the disaster on Everest, Breashears and his team rise to the challenge of achieving their goal - humbled by the mountain's overwhelming power, yet exhilarated by their own accomplishment.

Genres: Nonfiction, Adventure, Mountaineering, Travel, History, Climbing, Sports

256 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1997

Reviews

[Vanessa · Rating 4 out of 5]

I initially got this from the library for photographic context while I was re-reading Into Thin Air (I should mention here I have a bit of an obsession with mountain-climbing books ever since I first read that book, coupled with a deep desire to just chill here at sea level for the rest of my life. Nothing about this hobby sounds appealing, yet it fascinates me to no end.)

Because it was a National Geographic production, the pictures were excellent and gave me some of the best visual context I've ever had of Everest landmarks (the South Col, the Yellow Band, the Hillary Step, which is no longer there as of the 2015 quake) as well as the trek in from Lukla which is a grueling feat in itself. But once I started reading the text, I was transfixed and more or less read this giant coffee table book in one sitting.

This is the story of the team that made the IMAX film Everest (the story is also covered in a chapter of Ed Viesturs' book, No Shortcuts to the Top.) They set out to make their documentary--the highest grossing IMAX film ever--in the spring of 1996, thereby unwittingly becoming witnesses and rescuers in the 1996 tragedy detailed in Krakauer's book, as well as countless others (mostly of inferior quality.)

They do discuss the '96 tragedy in this book and the IMAX team's subsequent climb (as well as all of the technological innovations that went into building an IMAX camera that could function at high altitudes), but they also delve into subjects other books only glancingly cover, if at all: the culture and religious lives of the Sherpas are rendered in fascinating detail and because it's National Geographic, there's a wealth of information about the geology of the Himalayas. The book, which was written in 1997, also discusses the fear that a large-scale earthquake in this area is imminent. This fear would sadly come to pass in 2015.

I really enjoyed this and would like to read more about the religious traditions of this area. So maybe my mountain climbing book fixation is satisfied.

For now.

[Becky · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of my favorites because it delves so refreshingly into the Sherpa's customs and ways of life, something missing from many mountaineering books.

[SeaKing · Rating 5 out of 5]

Đây là quyển sách đầu tiên tôi đọc về chủ đề leo núi Everest cao nhất thế giới, thật là thú vị.
Tác giả viết rất cẩn thận và chi tiết, với những bản đồ cụ thể, các giải thích các thông tin khoa học, địa lý, truyền thống địa phương, những hình ảnh thật của đoàn leo núi... tất cả những gì người ta có thể quan tâm về chủ đề chinh phục ngọn núi nổi tiếng này. Một chuyến leo núi Everest ngoài việc tốn kém còn cần chuẩn bị chu đáo từ thời gian, sức khỏe, trang thiết bị, chọn thời điểm, người dẫn đường kinh nghiệm, nguyên tắc kỷ luật, ý chí và cả may mắn.
Một câu chuyện có thật, hùng tráng và cả nghiệt ngã nhưng vẫn lôi cuốn những ai say mê chinh phục thiên nhiên.


Trước khi xem quyển sách này, tôi đã được xem bộ phim Everest (2015), với những cảnh quay tuyệt vời và nội dung ấn tượng, dựa trên câu chuyện có thật. Khi có dịp đọc được quyển sách này, hình dung lại những cảnh phim thật sống động và hiểu thêm về sự khắc nghiệt của thiên nhiên, đến một độ cao nào đó, người ta phải chịu hoàn toàn trách nhiệm về mạng sống của mình, kể từ người leo núi nghiệp dư lẫn người dẫn đường đầy kinh nghiệm, và mọi sai lầm sẽ phải trả giá rất đắt.

My first read on Everest topic, very interesting. Carefully written, detailed with maps, scientific explanation of what readers would want to know of the topic, ranges from geology, health, local tradition..., illustrated with wonderful pictures and the beauty of the real story, all as I expected before buying this book.
I have watched the movie before, and reading this book makes me re-live impressive scenes and strongly impacts my feelings that how fragile people are on the quest to the top. At some height to the top, each person must be responsible for his own life.

[Jake · Rating 4 out of 5]

For only the second time in my life I have intentionally bought a coffee table book. (By way of update and confession, I have yet to buy the table.) Everest: Mountain Without Mercy is a companion book to the IMAX film Everest. I also own and love that film. This book is an excellent supplement and a great work in its own right.

Broughton Coburn is the primary author of this National Geographic Society publication. But there are supplementary articles and essays by scientific and medical experts discussing everything from geology to high-altitude physiology. Each of them covers a specific facet of climbing Everest that needs to be understood if the endeavor is to be fully appreciated. However, the real stars of this work are the photos and the quotations from climbers.

This is a big book but not a long book. It can be read cover to cover or leafed through with equal enjoyment. Having read several other volumes of Everest literature, I can say this one does justice to the conventions of the subject: East meets West; the trek to base camp; the grand geology of the Himalaya; the personality of the mountain; the tragedy of lost life; and the triumph of reaching the summit. If this is a subject you have yet to explore, or are considering revisiting, Everest: Mountain Without Mercy is a wonderful offering.

[chucklesthescot · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a mixture of Everest expedition, geology, religion, Sherpa traditions, cultural history, climbing history and stunning photographs and maps. I enjoyed all the climbing sections, the photography and the geology which was about earthquakes. I was reading this book a week after the Nepal earthquake in 2015 and a paragraph in the book was talking about earthquakes in the region which was quite sobering. The section on the actual 1996 disaster on Everest was pretty heartbreaking.

[Stormy · Rating 4 out of 5]

The combination of stunning photography and excellent writing make this a must have book for Everest aficionados.

[David Ward · Rating 4 out of 5]

Everest : Mountain Without Mercy by Broughton Coburn (National Geographic Society 1997) (796.522) is a stunning book. It's the story of the 1996 expedition to Everest (led by David Brashears) to film an IMAX movie. The film project was put on hold, for the team was on the mountain during the terrible Everest tragedy when climbers from several parties were killed by a sudden storm. This is a wonderful book. My rating: 8/10, finished 2009.

[E Sweetman · Rating 4 out of 5]

I got this book from the library after recalling the tragedy on Everest the previous year. It was fascinating and I dreamed I was stranded at the summit after reading it. I took it out again when I got "Into Thin Air". Both books together made the tragedy so real. My feelings about guided tours to the summit as a wealthy but inexperienced climber are well aired in my review of "Into Thin Air".

[Jen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have settled on 4 stars for this book because the photography is beautiful, the writing is very good and the background information on the Himalaya, history of Everest and Sherpa history and culture provides something other books do not.

I couldn’t give 5 stars because I do not have Alzheimer’s yet and was disappointed with obvious and implied contradictions in the telling of the 1996 disaster.

The first contradiction is the same one that cropped up between “The Climb” and “Into Thin Air” the debate over bottled oxygen. In this particular book there are multiple contradictory statements. They again berate Anatoli Boukreev for not using bottled oxygen when guiding. On page 154 Ed Viesturs states “When I’m guiding, however I always use oxygen. You’re there for the clients, and oxygen does enable you to function better, both physically and mentally.” He also states on the same page “Once climbers are on oxygen, they become stronger. It’s a bit of a crutch. Without it, I don’t have a mechanical apparatus that can fail on me and thereby endanger me.” This second statement was exactly Boukreev’s argument for climbing without oxygen so he was always in control and not reliant on mechanical apparatus. On page 226 the book also states that “Araceli became lethargic and eventually sat down, unaware that her oxygen had run out”. Again exactly supporting Boukreev’s choice to never put himself in that position. Ed justifies his choice to climb without oxygen and because he was not guiding, but he was there to do a job. He is praised on page 229 “Ed did a great job of breaking trail, and it’s amazing that he did it without oxygen”. Did Boukreev get praise for the same thing and fixing ropes without oxygen? No! In fact they totally neglect to mention that Boukreev did in fact set out with a canister of oxygen in case he needed it to do his job, but because the fixed ropes were not in place Boukreev and Biedleman both helped the Sherpas fix ropes meaning that, due to the extra time and exertion, Biedleman was running low on oxygen and Boukreev gave the other guide his canister. On page 166 they state that “Groom, Biedleman, and the others barely made it to their tents” after being on the South Col with the group of lost climbers. If Biedleman had not had the extra oxygen he may not have made it back to alert anyone to the plight of the group on the South Col. He did not have the strength to help the group himself as his extra oxygen had also run out. Also on page 166 they state “Boukreev, who had returned from climbing to the summit without oxygen, was exhausted, but he went out for the stranded climbers. Unable to find them, he returned for better instructions from Biedleman and Groom. On the next trip he found three clients…”. He saved 3 people by being back in time to do so and enabling Biedleman to be able to alert him. Then on page 173 they state that “No one had been strong enough to assist anyone else”…..really what did you say just 7 pages ago? 2 pages later on page 175 they state “Anatoli Boukreev began to gather oxygen bottles, aware that he was the only one with the strength to make another try at rescuing Fischer”. How does the fact he had been to the summit, been out twice and rescued 3 people and still had the strength to attempt another rescue support the claim that he did the wrong thing? Others were heroic for sure but some hadn’t even been to the summit, and most had been on oxygen, and yet none had the strength to help Boukreev. Perhaps it is time to admit he knew his body and limitations better than other people do?

The next contradiction is the claim Boukreev came down ahead of most of his clients. As I’ve said above he stated, when someone bothered to ask him and not make assumptions, that this was a safety plan agreed with Fischer so that he would be in camp IV to assist anyone who got into trouble on the return……and who went and retrieved lost climbers off the South Col as intended? They also complained he left the summit without waiting for the others (page 196). How was he to know if they would make it or not? Why should he wait in the freezing winds when on page 225 Viesturs also left ahead of everyone else when they had a job to do?

The final slap in the face is the statement on page 193 that “the only true rescue was made by the Sherpas who retrieved Makalu Gau”. So going out and retrieving 3 people from the South Col who would otherwise have died in the storm does not count? Going to the same spot on the Southeast Ridge to try to save Fischer doesn’t count because he was already dead?

Then there is the contradiction between page 138 and page 210. On page 138 they claim that the fault line on Everest must be above the yellow band due to geological evidence. On page 210 they claim that the Chomolungma detachment (Yellow Band) is the world’s highest fault.

It is a good read, but the contradictions mean that anyone with a memory span greater than that of a gnat will get frustrated. Yes, I may be overly defensive of Boukreev but why should credit be due to 1 person for doing something amazing and not another who did the same thing or more?

[Jaydon Houle · Rating 4 out of 5]

I personally thought that the book was a pretty good read. I liked how the author (Broughton Coburn) showed pictures and wrote about the culture of the surrounding countries (Nepal, Tibet, and China). the pictures of the base camps showed how steep and treacherous the mountain was, even in the safety of the base camps. The pictures of the land looks spectacular. they had even talked to a movie director (David Breashears) who had gone up and joined the crew while scaling the monstrous mountain. They had interviewed previous climbers and sherpas that had finished the journey, they all mentioned how dangerous the mountain could be but at the same time how much they all had a deep love for Everest. One thing that did confuse me for a little bit were the facts in the middle of the book. I would be reading something about how someone almost died because they stayed up on the peak too long, and than BOOM, a random fact that just hopped in the way. They are all a certain shade of blue though, so after a while you start to figure it out and become less confused. The overall book is about the different climbs that the group leaders have had, and their most unique journeys. They also write about how the movie director managed to get the filming equipment up and on to Everest. They talk to and about the people of Nepal and Tibet (not as much China as Nepal and Tibet) about how living off of the land is, and how natural and clean the food is. They also showed how poor the town is but how they're getting by. They talk about how it feels to climb the giant mountain and what they have to go through. They sleep inside of tiny body tents and get very minimal food every day, if they didn't pack enough food or water they need to go back down. You would think that an acceptable food to take up would be rice, bread, cheese, maybe some fruits and veggies. But you would be pretty far off. A majority of the foods they take up are dehydrated foods and spam. Most climbers also like to bring up a shot of liquor.
The overall book was pretty good, with the only pesky feature being the pop-up ad like fun facts about the mountain or the climbers. And there were also some times where the book started to be hard to comprehend, but the information and the stories that they tell were just great.

[Mike Courson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Book 5 of 2021
In reading Krakauer's Into the Wild, I passed up on his book Into Thin Air. I regretted it and purchased a copy and was about one-third of the way in when I started the audiobook of Coburn's Everest. So much is the same story (plus I watched Storm Over Everest, which Coburn often references at the end of this book), so it's a lot of the same stories from different perspectives. I still have yet to finish Into Thin Air though hopefully soon.
I think it a necessity for any Everest climber to educate the reader a little about the culture around and on the mountain. As more of an historical overview that happens to focus on a certain year, Coburn's book would be great for starters wanting to learn about the Sherpa culture that is so important in climbing the world's tallest peak. Beyond that, Coburn offers some historical context of Everest climbs and some great science about what happens to the body at the world's highest altitudes. As enthralling as the documentary Storm Over Everest is, it fails in educating the viewer about these very important aspects of the climb.
As for the 1996 climbs, Coburn puts you on the mountain (without the cold, wind, or hypoxia). I have yet to finish Krakauer's first-hand account of those deadly days so I'm not sure how all-encompassing he goes. Coburn tells a pretty complete story about other teams on the mountain, radio traffic from key figures, and again, the science of what the climbers faced. Telling the story from afar, after the fact, Coburn paints the full story in one fell swoop.
As Everest stories go, perhaps none are as compelling as the original ascent and this deadly, well-documented climbs in 1996. Bringing that historical and scientific context to his book, Coburn's book may well be the quintessential story for those who want to take in as much of the tale without doing a ton of reading.

[Sally · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very straight forward book on the Everest IMAX expedition that included David Breashears, Ed Viesturs & Jamling Tenzing Norgay (son of Tenzing Norgay, who climbed with Sir Edmund Hillary), who were also on the mountain during the fateful 1996 climbing season. This book provides an account of the tragedies that occurred, albeit the expedition had made the decision to push back their summit push until after the 2 other expedition teams (Scott Fishers's Mountain Madness & Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants), as well as a few other teams attempted their summit push for May 9th/10th. While they were at Base Camp, they saw the storm come through & were on their radios as the whole tragedy unfolded (especially the conversation between Rob Hall & his wife). After the storm, they also assisted with bringing the teams off the mountain.

Following the tragedy, this team decided to push for the summit after the tragedy. This book then follows the team up the mountain & is reflective of that time during the climb. This account is a good accompaniment to the IMAX movie.

I am also grateful for the detailed discussion of the important role & history of the Sherpa. They are the unsung heroes, the Icefall Doctors, who literally pave the path to the summit by fixing ropes.

[Thomas Radigan · Rating 5 out of 5]

I saw the movie, now I found the book! There have been numerous expeditions to climb to the top of Mount Everest, the world's tallest mountain, some successful, some not, some ending in tragedy. This book covers one where IMAX film is used for the first time to take a movie about the mountain and the people around it.

The book has some fantastic photographs, but much more verbal information, including who was on the multiple expeditions joined together and their lives before, including the author's, why they went, and the history not only of the people who live in the vicinity and their religion and culture, but the geological origins of the Himalaya mountains. Though there is a purportedly "safe" time during May when climbing conditions are least risky, there were unseasonal snowstorms which did unexpected harm to many of the people. Despite this, sherpas still guide the people who are still willing to climb, and even the author is still infected by the desire to go again when has done that already.

[Long LE · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bắt đầu đọc cuốn này trước khi đi EBC, đọc được một nửa và hoàn thành sau khi đi EBC về :)))

Đây là cuốn thứ 2 mình đọc về chủ đề Everest nhưng nói cùng một sự kiện với cuốn “Into the thin Air”, cùng nói về về tai nạn của hai đoàn leo núi năm 1996 dưới hai góc nhìn khác nhau. Cuốn này từ góc nhìn của đoàn làm phim Everest ( không trực tiếp trong vụ tai nạn như cuốn kia) nên cảm giác nhẹ nhàng hơn. Ngoài kể chuyện thì cuốn này còn cung cấp những kiến thức về hội chứng sau độ cao, về văn hoá Phật Giáo Nepal và những phỏng vấn ngắn những người trong cuộc

Nguy hiểm là thế, hàng trăm người đã chết trong quá trình leo Everest, nhưng bản chất con người là muốn được chinh phục nên hàng năm vẫn có hàng nghìn con người thử sức mình nơi đây. Everest luôn có một sức hấp dẫn không thể cưỡng lại

“People do not decide to become extraordinary. They decide to accomplish extraordinary things.”
-Edmund Hillary-

[Kara · Rating 5 out of 5]

With two renowned reporters and a documentary film crew on hand, the 1996 disaster on Everest was a well documented disaster as well as a tragic one.

This edition has both the close-up, immediate reporting of the facts of the event gathered together in 1996, as well as a bigger overview of what happened to everyone afterwards over the years and how this event fits plays out in context of the 21st century commercialization of Everest.

I especially appreciated getting more focus on the people of Nepal, their culture, politics, region and history, and how they feel about what is happening to Everest, experiencing that classic love-hate relationship with tourism economics.

[Sally Edsall · Rating 5 out of 5]

I adore this book - an excellent addition to any 'Everest library'. The photos and production are breathtaking.

Yep, it's a coffee-tabler, and it sits in my living room. It's a potpourri of Everest-ness...if you have seen the Imax film, then this is a must have, and even if you haven't i can't imagine anyone being disappointed with it.

[Kelly · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’ve read Into Thin Air & The Climb and wanted a third perspective on the May 1996 tragedy on Everest. This was a well written and excellent description of all parties involved. It gave individuals Ed Viesters and others from the IMAX expeditions voice in what took place. Though the story was tragic, it shows courage and sheer will as well.

[Aadesh · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read the book after watching the movie Everest. I felt the book was movie script. Reading the book and looking at awesome pictures, I connected with the plots and stories I read about 1996 season on Everest from different authors.

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fascinating look at the IMAX film makers expedition to Everest during the 1996 season, when many lives were lost. While I skimmed some of the scientific aspects, the story telling of the tragedies and how the team overcame them was very interesting.

[Sarah · Rating 3 out of 5]

Full of interesting facts, but the part covering the actual 1996 trek is pretty superficial and quick. If you're wanting to read specifically about the 1996 disaster than this book isn't the best, but if you're super into Everest this is full of lots of great information.

[Brandy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Beautiful photos of Everest in this coffee table book. A little too much info on the culture, religion and people of Nepal. Although they are some of the true heroes of the tragedy of 96. Next up on the Everest adventure is The Climb.

[Annika · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful photographs, and more information and the IMAX expedition's account of the 1996 disaster. The maps really helped the sea-level lovers like me to get somewhat of a sense of what's what. I'm sure no photograph can ever do Everest justice.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

Slow start. I am sure some may enjoy the beginning few chapters but I didn't. I just wanted to hear about the climb.

[Valerie Sherman · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sweeping visual shots, interesting factoids, and a more objective view of the 1996 Everest disaster than I've read before.

[James Christensen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well written and beautifully photographed recounting of the filming of the IMAX movie "Everest".

[Anna · Rating 5 out of 5]

Yet another excellent book about the 1996 tragedy on Everest. I enjoyed the addition of some of the geology of Everest as well.

[Riley · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not too long, but very interesting and thought-provoking.

[Joanna · Rating 4 out of 5]

A more general take on the '96 tragedy on Everest from the perspective of the IMAX team on the mountain. Wish the photography was a little better.

[Vicki · Rating 4 out of 5]

Missed the photography by listening to the audio version of this book. Well researched.

[Mara · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed the photos and the essays on related topics