What do you think?
Rate this book
Cyclecraft: Skilled Cycling Techniques for Adults
Cyclecraft is the definitive guide to safe and enjoyable cycling for both adults and children. Whether you are new to cycling, looking to extend your skills, or wanting to know how best to teach your children to cycle, Cyclecraft offers practical advice on how to ride a bike confidently and safely in modern traffic conditions.
This North American edition of Cyclecraft has been specifically adapted to reflect conditions, laws and best practice in the United States and Canada.
This North American edition of Cyclecraft has been specifically adapted to reflect conditions, laws and best practice in the United States and Canada.
175 pages, Paperback
First published May 26, 1988
14 people are currently reading
31 people want to read
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews
December 30, 2020
“Almost everyone is able to cycle, and for a child, learning to ride a bike is an important landmark in their development as an independet person.”, p. 1
“[Experienced cyclist] know that by controlling their machine correctly and using appropiate riding techniques, cycling can not only be safe but also fun”, p. 1
“Cyclists, on average, live longer than non-cyclist and experience much less ill-health. They are twelve times less likely to die of heart disease.”, p. 1
“Gradual acclimatisation to cycling in traffic is the best approach, getting used to more demanding traffic situations one by one.”, p. 3
“From a cyclist’s point of view, the greatest hazard is not being seen by other drivers. With their concentration attracted by the signals, a cyclist can be overlooked, so it is necessary to make yourself as conspicuous as possible through positioning”, p. 115
“this guide makes no excuses for the trends in road design which have led to the current situation. But in the real world there are techniques which cyclists can learn to maximise their safety and reduce to a minimum the problems that they encounter.”, p. 123
“Success in the more difficult manoeuvres comes by tackling each situation step by step, riding to suit the current circumstances, while making preparations to your advantage for what is to come.”, p. 123
“Negotiation recognises that you are the driver of a vehicle with as much right to proceed safely and quickly as any other. It relies upon establishing cooperation between you and other drivers in order to facilitate your progress and to protect you from the hazards that might otherwise arise. It makes other drivers want to assist you by appealing directly to a basic human instinct – responding with help when it is specifically requested.”, p. 124
“Very often a driver who has let you in will continue to protect you, but don’t trust anyone else!”, p. 139
“It is not just the speed of traffic which causes the problems, although this certainly increases the severity of any collision.”, p. 145
“It would be easy to think that motor traffic is the only – or at least the greatest – problem for cyclists using the roads. However, there are many other hazards of which to be aware, and they can be less predictable than motorists.”, p. 150
“At best, bad surfaces result in an uncomfortable ride for a cyclist; at worst, they can lead to loss of control, a spill into the path of following traffic, and serious injury. In general, poor road surfaces probably result in more injuries to cyclists and damage to their bikes than any other cause.”, p. 150
“As far as possible, you should not let pressure from impatient drivers force you onto an uncomfortable or hazardous surface.”, p. 151
“However effective restrictions may be in reducing speeds at particular places, one result is that drivers spend more of their time accelerating and braking while driving along these roads. One consequence of this is that even good drivers may have their attention distracted from the road, while some drivers react in such a way as to minimise the effect of the restrictions on their progress. To a cyclist, the fierce acceleration and braking of modern cars can be more of a problem than absolute speed.”, p. 169-170
“Dual-carriageway trunk roads are usually better for cycling than single carriageways, as drivers will have more room to give you the clearance they should when overtaking.”, p. 171
“Don’t be misled by the folklore that cycling is easiest on the flat: you pedal for longer where there are no descents to freewheel and fatigue is experienced sooner. Gently undulating roads are much the least tiring overall, as well as being more interesting.”, p. 171
“[Hill climbing technique:] As you approach a hill, change to a lower gear as soon as you feel that your cadence is beginning to decrease. By far the commonest fault amongst cyclists in hill climbing is changing gear too late, by which time they are more exhausted than is necessary. With practice you should be able to change before your cadence decreases, in order to anticipate the loss of momentum which inevitably occurs during a gear change. Learn just how much momentum you do lose under differing circumstances and detect the increase in pedalling effort which precedes a reduction in pedalling speed; this is the correct time to change gear. Your aim should be to keep the pedals turning at the cadence which matches your maximum efficiency, at least until you have reached bottom gear and can change down no further. If a hill is gradual, you should change down one gear at a time... As the gradient slackens, change back to higher gears as soon as you can, to increase speed and maintain cadence. However, if a hill is steep, you will waste much less momentum if you change down several gears at a time. When the need to use a smaller chainring seems likely, be sure to change to this in good time... On sudden, severe hills, it is often best to go straight for a very low gear and then to change up slowly if you find that you have gone too far. If that is the case, pedal a bit faster while changing back up; to maintain the same cadence in this instance might reduce control and make balancing more difficult. As you near the top of a steep hill, change back up again, although you may first find it more refreshing to pedal a short while in what would otherwise be too low a gear. Once you reach bottom gear, it will no longer be possible to maintain normal cadence, and your pedalling will slow down. At first you may feel that this is the point to get off and walk, but don’t! Part of the skill in riding up steep hills is having the patience to ride up slowly. Although it may seem dreadfully slow compared with a preceding descent, it will still be faster than walking. It is at this time, if you are on a quiet road with little traffic, that you can look at your surroundings, which will take your mind off your speed. Before you realise it, you will be at the top. There are two limiting factors which determine how steep a hill you can climb. The first is your ability to maintain balance, and the second is the tendency of the front wheel to lift off the ground on really steep climbs. Given suitable gears, the strength of the rider is less important, although regular hill climbing strengthens the calf muscles and makes the activity easier.”, p. 173
“The first thing to remember on a long ride is that you should not exhaust yourself early by riding too quickly. Climbing steep hills may seem deceptively easy at the beginning of a day, but this could be counterbalanced by the earlier onset of fatigue later on.”, p. 186
“On any long ride it is best to stop as infrequently as possible – and try not to make a prolonged stop until you have covered at least half of the total distance. Although short stops from time to time can be useful for regaining energy, each successive stop will replenish you less than the previous one, and you will subsequently tire more quickly.”, p. 186
“It is a mistake to think that cycle facilities are inherently safer than using the general roads.”, p. 188
“Cycle facilities are usually compromises rather than optimum solutions, for there is rarely the space or money to implement high-quality designs suitable for a broad cross-section of cyclists. Furthermore, some facilities complicate the traffic situation and require cyclists to ride in a way that is not compatible with good cycling practice. Knowledge about cycling is often limited amongst the providers of cycle facilities”, p. 188
“User discipline on cycle tracks is usually much poorer than on roads, even though the consequences of two cyclists, each riding at 25 km/h (15 mph), colliding head-on are not much different from a single cyclist colliding with a car. The fatalities which have occurred on cycle tracks illustrate this.”, p. 190
“Collisions involving cyclists are not equally likely to happen anywhere along a road. Relatively few occur between junctions, and the one type of collision that roadside tracks reduce, the rear hit, was observed... to be one of the least common. Most cyclist crashes occur at junctions and are a result of turning or crossing movements. Roadside cycle tracks usually increase the number of junctions that a cyclist meets, for they are interrupted by every driveway as well as every road.”, p. 191
“When using any exemption, always make extra allowance for the fact that others might not expect the movement that you are making.”, p. 197
“Cycle trails are not inherently safe routes, nor are they safer than most roads. The paths often demand a degree of skill that is not elementary, yet is rarely appreciated, but people often think that they are safe and therefore take less care. Common hazards are uneven and loose surfaces, bad visibility (particularly near bends), the behaviour of other cyclists... Road crossings always require special care. To enjoy these trails to the full you need to recognise their limitations, but to expect others not to do likewise.”, p. 198
“Wherever you ride at night, you must remember that it will be harder for others to see you and it will be harder for everyone – including yourself – to judge conditions. All movements must therefore be made more cautiously, giving time for you to be seen and your intentions understood. Techniques such as negotiation become more difficult when visibility is poor, and it is usually better to use gaps in traffic in order to make complicated manoeuvres. Fortunately, during the hours of darkness, traffic volumes are often lower, although this can be offset to some extent if the drivers who are on the road travel faster.”, p. 201
“Most non-cyclists think that rain is the principal weather problem for cycling. In practice, wind is much worse, although, of course, the combination of wind and rain is worst of all. The only time when wind is a good thing is when it’s behind you, and such occasions seem decidedly rare! Even when it is pushing you along, you need to take care that it doesn’t encourage you to go too fast, and that you are not vulnerable to a side wind or an eddy current as you turn a bend, pass a building or are overtaken by another vehicle. In contrast, head winds can make cycling a struggle and increase fatigue... Crosswinds are the most hazardous type of wind: the full strength of gale-force crosswinds can move a cycle sideways across a road.”, p. 203
“So long as you dress appropriately, rain by itself does not have to be unpleasant for cycling.”, p. 204
“The main problem during rain is that your brakes will work less well – possibly much less so. You will need to allow additional time when braking, and to be more cautious approaching possible hazards. Brake with equal force on front and rear brakes. In heavy rain brake early, as it may be some seconds after you pull the levers before the brakes begin to bite because the blocks must first remove water from the rims. Continue to apply pressure gently; squeezing hard in desperation may result in a wheel locking when rim contact is made. You should become familiar with the time that it takes for your brakes to operate under such conditions. Consider putting your lights on in heavy rain. In very heavy rain you may be quite unable to stop. Of course, you shouldn’t get into such a situation in the first place. Chase water off the rims periodically by applying the brakes while riding along. Stop and wait if the rain becomes a deluge, and don’t try to descend a steep hill in such conditions. Rain after a dry spell can result in slippery roads, as the water mixes with surface oil. Take particular care at bends and near junctions. Spray from overtaking traffic can be a problem, both in the rain and for some while after... Be prepared in case puddles are potholes in disguise. Unless you wear spectacles, your ability to see should not be greatly impaired by rain, but motorists will find it harder to see through a wet windscreen.”, p. 204-205
“[Experienced cyclist] know that by controlling their machine correctly and using appropiate riding techniques, cycling can not only be safe but also fun”, p. 1
“Cyclists, on average, live longer than non-cyclist and experience much less ill-health. They are twelve times less likely to die of heart disease.”, p. 1
“Gradual acclimatisation to cycling in traffic is the best approach, getting used to more demanding traffic situations one by one.”, p. 3
“From a cyclist’s point of view, the greatest hazard is not being seen by other drivers. With their concentration attracted by the signals, a cyclist can be overlooked, so it is necessary to make yourself as conspicuous as possible through positioning”, p. 115
“this guide makes no excuses for the trends in road design which have led to the current situation. But in the real world there are techniques which cyclists can learn to maximise their safety and reduce to a minimum the problems that they encounter.”, p. 123
“Success in the more difficult manoeuvres comes by tackling each situation step by step, riding to suit the current circumstances, while making preparations to your advantage for what is to come.”, p. 123
“Negotiation recognises that you are the driver of a vehicle with as much right to proceed safely and quickly as any other. It relies upon establishing cooperation between you and other drivers in order to facilitate your progress and to protect you from the hazards that might otherwise arise. It makes other drivers want to assist you by appealing directly to a basic human instinct – responding with help when it is specifically requested.”, p. 124
“Very often a driver who has let you in will continue to protect you, but don’t trust anyone else!”, p. 139
“It is not just the speed of traffic which causes the problems, although this certainly increases the severity of any collision.”, p. 145
“It would be easy to think that motor traffic is the only – or at least the greatest – problem for cyclists using the roads. However, there are many other hazards of which to be aware, and they can be less predictable than motorists.”, p. 150
“At best, bad surfaces result in an uncomfortable ride for a cyclist; at worst, they can lead to loss of control, a spill into the path of following traffic, and serious injury. In general, poor road surfaces probably result in more injuries to cyclists and damage to their bikes than any other cause.”, p. 150
“As far as possible, you should not let pressure from impatient drivers force you onto an uncomfortable or hazardous surface.”, p. 151
“However effective restrictions may be in reducing speeds at particular places, one result is that drivers spend more of their time accelerating and braking while driving along these roads. One consequence of this is that even good drivers may have their attention distracted from the road, while some drivers react in such a way as to minimise the effect of the restrictions on their progress. To a cyclist, the fierce acceleration and braking of modern cars can be more of a problem than absolute speed.”, p. 169-170
“Dual-carriageway trunk roads are usually better for cycling than single carriageways, as drivers will have more room to give you the clearance they should when overtaking.”, p. 171
“Don’t be misled by the folklore that cycling is easiest on the flat: you pedal for longer where there are no descents to freewheel and fatigue is experienced sooner. Gently undulating roads are much the least tiring overall, as well as being more interesting.”, p. 171
“[Hill climbing technique:] As you approach a hill, change to a lower gear as soon as you feel that your cadence is beginning to decrease. By far the commonest fault amongst cyclists in hill climbing is changing gear too late, by which time they are more exhausted than is necessary. With practice you should be able to change before your cadence decreases, in order to anticipate the loss of momentum which inevitably occurs during a gear change. Learn just how much momentum you do lose under differing circumstances and detect the increase in pedalling effort which precedes a reduction in pedalling speed; this is the correct time to change gear. Your aim should be to keep the pedals turning at the cadence which matches your maximum efficiency, at least until you have reached bottom gear and can change down no further. If a hill is gradual, you should change down one gear at a time... As the gradient slackens, change back to higher gears as soon as you can, to increase speed and maintain cadence. However, if a hill is steep, you will waste much less momentum if you change down several gears at a time. When the need to use a smaller chainring seems likely, be sure to change to this in good time... On sudden, severe hills, it is often best to go straight for a very low gear and then to change up slowly if you find that you have gone too far. If that is the case, pedal a bit faster while changing back up; to maintain the same cadence in this instance might reduce control and make balancing more difficult. As you near the top of a steep hill, change back up again, although you may first find it more refreshing to pedal a short while in what would otherwise be too low a gear. Once you reach bottom gear, it will no longer be possible to maintain normal cadence, and your pedalling will slow down. At first you may feel that this is the point to get off and walk, but don’t! Part of the skill in riding up steep hills is having the patience to ride up slowly. Although it may seem dreadfully slow compared with a preceding descent, it will still be faster than walking. It is at this time, if you are on a quiet road with little traffic, that you can look at your surroundings, which will take your mind off your speed. Before you realise it, you will be at the top. There are two limiting factors which determine how steep a hill you can climb. The first is your ability to maintain balance, and the second is the tendency of the front wheel to lift off the ground on really steep climbs. Given suitable gears, the strength of the rider is less important, although regular hill climbing strengthens the calf muscles and makes the activity easier.”, p. 173
“The first thing to remember on a long ride is that you should not exhaust yourself early by riding too quickly. Climbing steep hills may seem deceptively easy at the beginning of a day, but this could be counterbalanced by the earlier onset of fatigue later on.”, p. 186
“On any long ride it is best to stop as infrequently as possible – and try not to make a prolonged stop until you have covered at least half of the total distance. Although short stops from time to time can be useful for regaining energy, each successive stop will replenish you less than the previous one, and you will subsequently tire more quickly.”, p. 186
“It is a mistake to think that cycle facilities are inherently safer than using the general roads.”, p. 188
“Cycle facilities are usually compromises rather than optimum solutions, for there is rarely the space or money to implement high-quality designs suitable for a broad cross-section of cyclists. Furthermore, some facilities complicate the traffic situation and require cyclists to ride in a way that is not compatible with good cycling practice. Knowledge about cycling is often limited amongst the providers of cycle facilities”, p. 188
“User discipline on cycle tracks is usually much poorer than on roads, even though the consequences of two cyclists, each riding at 25 km/h (15 mph), colliding head-on are not much different from a single cyclist colliding with a car. The fatalities which have occurred on cycle tracks illustrate this.”, p. 190
“Collisions involving cyclists are not equally likely to happen anywhere along a road. Relatively few occur between junctions, and the one type of collision that roadside tracks reduce, the rear hit, was observed... to be one of the least common. Most cyclist crashes occur at junctions and are a result of turning or crossing movements. Roadside cycle tracks usually increase the number of junctions that a cyclist meets, for they are interrupted by every driveway as well as every road.”, p. 191
“When using any exemption, always make extra allowance for the fact that others might not expect the movement that you are making.”, p. 197
“Cycle trails are not inherently safe routes, nor are they safer than most roads. The paths often demand a degree of skill that is not elementary, yet is rarely appreciated, but people often think that they are safe and therefore take less care. Common hazards are uneven and loose surfaces, bad visibility (particularly near bends), the behaviour of other cyclists... Road crossings always require special care. To enjoy these trails to the full you need to recognise their limitations, but to expect others not to do likewise.”, p. 198
“Wherever you ride at night, you must remember that it will be harder for others to see you and it will be harder for everyone – including yourself – to judge conditions. All movements must therefore be made more cautiously, giving time for you to be seen and your intentions understood. Techniques such as negotiation become more difficult when visibility is poor, and it is usually better to use gaps in traffic in order to make complicated manoeuvres. Fortunately, during the hours of darkness, traffic volumes are often lower, although this can be offset to some extent if the drivers who are on the road travel faster.”, p. 201
“Most non-cyclists think that rain is the principal weather problem for cycling. In practice, wind is much worse, although, of course, the combination of wind and rain is worst of all. The only time when wind is a good thing is when it’s behind you, and such occasions seem decidedly rare! Even when it is pushing you along, you need to take care that it doesn’t encourage you to go too fast, and that you are not vulnerable to a side wind or an eddy current as you turn a bend, pass a building or are overtaken by another vehicle. In contrast, head winds can make cycling a struggle and increase fatigue... Crosswinds are the most hazardous type of wind: the full strength of gale-force crosswinds can move a cycle sideways across a road.”, p. 203
“So long as you dress appropriately, rain by itself does not have to be unpleasant for cycling.”, p. 204
“The main problem during rain is that your brakes will work less well – possibly much less so. You will need to allow additional time when braking, and to be more cautious approaching possible hazards. Brake with equal force on front and rear brakes. In heavy rain brake early, as it may be some seconds after you pull the levers before the brakes begin to bite because the blocks must first remove water from the rims. Continue to apply pressure gently; squeezing hard in desperation may result in a wheel locking when rim contact is made. You should become familiar with the time that it takes for your brakes to operate under such conditions. Consider putting your lights on in heavy rain. In very heavy rain you may be quite unable to stop. Of course, you shouldn’t get into such a situation in the first place. Chase water off the rims periodically by applying the brakes while riding along. Stop and wait if the rain becomes a deluge, and don’t try to descend a steep hill in such conditions. Rain after a dry spell can result in slippery roads, as the water mixes with surface oil. Take particular care at bends and near junctions. Spray from overtaking traffic can be a problem, both in the rain and for some while after... Be prepared in case puddles are potholes in disguise. Unless you wear spectacles, your ability to see should not be greatly impaired by rain, but motorists will find it harder to see through a wet windscreen.”, p. 204-205
June 6, 2010
The UK version of this book has been around for a number of years. It served as the standard for UK Highway Code on cycling. It is the standard of reference for the UK National Cycle Training Standard. This new North America addition is adapted for difference in lane practices and differences in US and Canadian legal code and customs. The book is recommended reading by both The League of American Bicyclists (LAB) and The Canadian Cycling Association (CCA), the two primary providers of bicycle safety training in North America.
The book is well written, but definitely in the dry matter-of-fact British style. It is a complete training manual for using a bicycle safely on the road and covers briefly most other variations of cycling. If briefly covers some of the mechanical aspects of a bicycle, then launches into a chapter on how to learn to ride and bicycle and how to develop skills it identifies as essential to road cycling. From there it discusses safe procedures for road cycling and for many different circumstances and uses. There is special attention in several areas to cycling with children. It includes a discussion of a large variety of road hazards, including hazards of circumstances as well as road surface problems. It includes an explanation of how to safely pass a horse and rider!
I recommend it to anyone who rides on the road regularly for any reason. It will help become a safer and more confident rider. I especially recommend it for anyone who commutes by bicycle. Although I don't think drivers would be motivated to read this if they do not cycle, I believe they also would benefit from reading the book.
The book is well written, but definitely in the dry matter-of-fact British style. It is a complete training manual for using a bicycle safely on the road and covers briefly most other variations of cycling. If briefly covers some of the mechanical aspects of a bicycle, then launches into a chapter on how to learn to ride and bicycle and how to develop skills it identifies as essential to road cycling. From there it discusses safe procedures for road cycling and for many different circumstances and uses. There is special attention in several areas to cycling with children. It includes a discussion of a large variety of road hazards, including hazards of circumstances as well as road surface problems. It includes an explanation of how to safely pass a horse and rider!
I recommend it to anyone who rides on the road regularly for any reason. It will help become a safer and more confident rider. I especially recommend it for anyone who commutes by bicycle. Although I don't think drivers would be motivated to read this if they do not cycle, I believe they also would benefit from reading the book.
February 10, 2024
Essential reading for anyone who cycles - or plans to cycle - in public places, whether you're a beginner or road veteran.
Cycle lanes are good right? Well, sometimes. Riding in the middle of your lane is dangerous right? Well, not so much. Cycle paths or shared use paths make it safer for everyone right? Well, no.
It also covers alternative modes of riding such trikes, recumbents, tandems, trailers, panniers, options for riding with children or pets, offroad riding, why quite country lanes are so loved, how undulating terrain is easier than flat areas, and where to look for advice on various cycling clubs and sports.
I'd be surprised if anyone reading this doesn't benefit from it - including car drivers who don't own a bicycle. There are also UK and North American editions available to suit those 3 countries so, with the exception of legal differences, would be useful everywhere.
Cycle lanes are good right? Well, sometimes. Riding in the middle of your lane is dangerous right? Well, not so much. Cycle paths or shared use paths make it safer for everyone right? Well, no.
It also covers alternative modes of riding such trikes, recumbents, tandems, trailers, panniers, options for riding with children or pets, offroad riding, why quite country lanes are so loved, how undulating terrain is easier than flat areas, and where to look for advice on various cycling clubs and sports.
I'd be surprised if anyone reading this doesn't benefit from it - including car drivers who don't own a bicycle. There are also UK and North American editions available to suit those 3 countries so, with the exception of legal differences, would be useful everywhere.
November 20, 2011
Probably more helpful if you drive on the left side of the road in your country. It's published in the UK.
January 12, 2015
Everything you need to know about bicycling on the streets. Better than John Forester's Effective Cycling.
Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews