Real life drama in the heart of California. Bootlegging, extortion, deceit, warring family members, and even murder in the Central Valley.
As someone who grew up in Modesto, visited the Gallo estate on Maze Rd several times in the '80s, have a handful from relatives and friends who have worked for Gallo over the years, and even have a distant relative who has married into the family, I was very interested in reading this book when I found it at my fathers house (in Modesto). I was even tempted to get a Bartles & Jaymes wine cooler when reading.
There is a lot of interesting information about the E&J Gallo's start in the business and their drive to grow and gain power. Many of the stories in the book I had heard before and most are common knowledge for those in the area. There were some elements which were clarified in the book for me, and a handful which I had never known. E & J clearly did what they needed to do in order to succeed, including shafting their own brother.
I am very glad I read this book.
That said, I felt the writing could be better. There were also a number of grammatical and punctuation errors (at least in this paperback edition) which I found annoying. Certain items were repeated throughout the book which wasn't really needed - once or twice would have been enough. It was almost like Tuccille knew he needed more pages so he found ways to repeat stories from previous chapters to increase the length.
I also felt that Tuccille added perceived, or possibly fictitious, drama.
For example, he repeatedly refers to Modesto as being a "company town" controlled by Gallo. This evokes the image from the western style movies of town living in fear by the land baron / rancher or the image of a mining town whose citizens are dependent on the mine owners for everything. I find the repeated use of this in reference to Modesto bothering and mildly insulting to the residents of Modesto.
It is true that the Gallos have exerted influence over the area. The book documents the donations (and resulting favors) to California & national politicians on both sides of the aisle and even president Clinton. It is also an open secret that in the past if you wanted to win a local election, you had better not go against the Gallo family (which may still be true today). And they certainly curried favors with their donations not only politicians but to the city itself (the Arts Center, etc).
But Modesto has always had significant industries and employers outside of working for (or with) Gallo. In the late 2000's (which the book was published), Modesto had over 180,000 residents. about 3500 - 4000 of them worked at Gallo, about 2% of the population. Hardly a "company town".
Even in the acknowledgements at the end of the book he had to insert some "drama". Two mini-stories come to mine:
1. when visiting the farm where E & J's parents died, a Fresno police cruiser showed up. Tuccille recounts how when they left to go into Fresno, the police cruiser followed he and his wife for 10 minutes as they drove from the rural farm - eliciting the notion that the cops were watching them. But instead of something ominous, it simply could have been that since the were on private land the police stopped to check on them. Then as they drove to Fresno, maybe the Fresno police officers also were simply returning back to town along the main route from the farm towards town. Nothing ominous, just 2 cars driving.
2. when Tuccille stopped at the Modesto Bee to buy pictures to use in his book, the person he spoke to was supposedly nervous and he implied that the paper was afraid of the Gallo's wrath if they sold him any pictures. But the Bee is owned by McClatchy which in 2008 (when he wrote the book) was the 2nd largest newspaper publisher in the country. This wasn't some local paper afraid of the Gallo family as Tuccile strongly implied. This is a vary large publishing company that doesn't sell the rights to it's photos. A very different story than what he presented.