Two kingdoms clash
In 1987, my wife and I arrived in Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital for a month’s stay. Fortuitously we had an introduction to a professor of Anthropology at the university and we wound up spending some time at his home before traveling (with great difficulty in those days of the country’s nadir) here and there. The professor had suggested that we visit a place in the far south, a special sanctuary where nature had been preserved. That place was called Berenty. We flew to the far south of the huge island and the small hotel sent a driver to pick us up at the airport, 53 miles away. We spent several days at Berenty, mostly walking in the riverine forest or in a patch of the unusual, tall, thorny plants of the dry south. A know-it-all Nobel prize winner and his crushed wife visited at the same time, with a honcho from the US and youthful hangers-on from France. Despite their antics, we met dozens of birds, some bats, and of course, the lemurs, the poster-animals of Madagascar. I was intrigued to learn that this was not a national park, but was part of a vast estate, run by a French family, where most of the land was used for growing sisal. While there, I didn’t learn much more.
Over 30 years later I ran across this book by Alison Jolly. I immediately bought it. Having read (and reviewed on GR) her book “A World Like Our Own”, I figured it would be good. I was not disappointed. For anyone interested in lemurs, in colonial history, and in stories of a remote place (from the point of view of almost everywhere else), “Lords & Lemurs” has a lot to offer. The main story is of the de Heaulme family whose members have been associated with the French activity in the western Indian Ocean for centuries. When many French people left the country when Madagascar became independent in 1960, this family decided to stay and carry on their sisal plantation. Their history is intimately linked to the Androy people of the area; with French colonial rule and life in a colony; and with the ups and downs of French history in the 20th century. At first, they continued to thrive after 1960, but as Madagascar turned to the left and soon crashed economically with state security being managed by the USSR, North Korea, and East Germany, the family underwent a number of trials including prison time for one. Jolly combines the story of this family with her observations of lemurs at Berenty, and the tribulations of the Androy, whose link to prickly pear cactus is one of the weird, but tragic, stories of history.
Madagascar is a unique place with the vast majority of its animals and plants found only there. At the same time, its growing population needs space, they need to earn a living in a land not blessed with valuable resources. The clash between economic necessity (human kingdom) and preservation of the natural kingdom is ongoing. Erosion is a major problem as is the desiccation of the already dry south. The efforts of these “lords” in one corner of the island are not enough. Conservation organizations often ignore the needs of local people. If you read this interesting, if chatty, book, you will gain a better understanding of the problems, which in some way mirror the problems of the whole world now.