Remembrance of Things Paris: Sixty Years of Writing from Gourmet

by Gourmet Magazine, Ruth Reichl (Editor)

A glorious, edible tour of Paris through six decades of writing from Gourmet magazine, edited and introduced by Ruth Reichl

For sixty years the best food writers have been sending dispatches from Paris to Gourmet. Collected here for the first time, their essays create a unique and timeless portrait of the world capital of love and food. When the book begins, just after the war, we are in a hungry city whose chefs struggle to find the eggs and cream they need to re-create the cuisine from before the German occupation. We watch as Paris comes alive again with zinc-topped tables crowded with people drinking café au lait and reveling in crisp baguettes, and the triumphant rebirth of three-star cuisine. In time, nouvelle cuisine is born and sweeps through a newly chic and modern city. It is all here: the old-time bourgeois dinners, the tastemakers of the fashion world, the hero-chefs, and, of course, Paris in all its snobbery and refinement, its inimitable pursuit of the art of fine living. Beautifully written, these dispatches from the past are intimate and immediate, allowing us to watch the month-by-month changes in the world’s most wonderful city. Remembrance of Things Paris is a book for anyone who wants to return to a Paris where a buttery madeleine is waiting around every corner.

Contributors include Louis Diat, Naomi Barry, Joseph Wechsberg, Judith and Evan Jones, Don Dresden, Lillian Langseth-Christensen, Diane Johnson, Michael Lewis, and Jonathan Gold.

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, France, Food Writing, Essays, Travel, Cooking

368 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2004

Reviews

[thefourthvine · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book's title should actually be Paris in the 1960s and 1970s, Described by Joseph Wechsberg and Naomi Berry. And therein lies the problem.

I expected, from the subtitle and from the other Gourmet collection I've read, to find here a variety of writers covering the full time span. And, technically, this book has both - seventeen authors (although that's a ludicrously small number for a 350 page anthology of short magazine pieces), and, well, if not quite sixty years, close. But the book is 85% Joseph Wechsberg and Naomi Berry by volume - apparently they provided the majority of all Gourmet's material on Paris, or just the majority of everything Ruth Reichl liked - and they cover only short periods; Berry part of the sixties, Wechsberg part of the seventies. So already this fails as an anthology - it's not providing a range of voices and experiences.

So the next question is - does it entertain, despite its flaws? And the answer is that it sort of does. Sort of because I don't like Wechsberg's writing (which is unfortunate for me vis-a-vis Gourmet's collections; Reichl apparently worships the ground he walked on) very much. Especially when he's writing about Paris, he's irritatingly pompous. Seriously, dude, if you're writing for an American audience, why throw lumps of random French into your text? Especially given that you're going to translate it in the next sentence. And I'm not talking about French that actually isn't easily translated, or that has special meaning - I'm talking about, like, the French for "from his home" or "car." But my real problem with him is that, Wechsberg is sexist, snobbish, and priggish. I know he had a fascinating life, and I'm sure he was a great guy, but his writing voice and style just basically make me want to poke him with a stick.

And, of course, since this book is about half Wechsberg, not liking him means not liking the book much. Which is a pity, because the places where this actually does act like an anthology, like the first and last sections, I was a very happy reader; Paris is a fascinating subject, and normally I love any book that features people talking about a place or thing that they love. And I didn't mind reading all the essays by Berry, even if they were rather limited in terms of era. But. Just. This book left me gritting my teeth and saying, "Shut up, Joseph Wechsberg."

[Linda · Rating 2 out of 5]

I Love Ruth Reichl! I love her autobiographies! I loved her term as editor for Gourmet.

If I had a "Bucket List", Paris, its bistro's, cafes and wonderful culture would be at the top of my list.

So, are you wondering why I have two stars posted? Because, if it were not for Ruth Ruth, I would have given it one. This book was, for the most part, a huge disappointment. The earlier writers for Gourmet were listless... more like food reporters. Dull, blah, blah, blah. Maybe, for its time, this was excitement and what the world expected of Parisian cuisine. I don't know.

It seemed to take forever to get through some of the essays.

But, again, in fairness to Ruth, if you like food history and want to take a walk in the past, you may find this of interest. For those who like to cook, there are some recipes. One pitfall I admit to, was thinking in terms of comparison. Anyway, the book goes on my shelf with a sigh of completion. Hopefully, a friend will want to borrow it.

[Wendy Thomas · Rating 1 out of 5]

You pick up this book because you notice Ruth Reichl is the author. And it’s a book about the cuisine of Paris! Sounds too good to be true! Well, it is. The book is a collection of essays NOT written by Reichl at all. The majority of essays are written by Joseph Wechsberg and Naomi Barry who are both total bores. I have been to Paris several times and I know what the city can offer; this book did not do the city nor it’s food justice. Many times I had to reread paragraphs because my eyes glazed over from lack of interest. It took me a little over 4 months to read a 340 page book because it was a struggle to read. Granted, there is some history on Paris that is interesting and many essays do contain recipes. However, I believe there are other books out there that will keep your interest better than this one will.

[Catherine Woodman]

I bought this, and several other books in the Food Modern Library series after reading Ruth Reichl's edited edition, Endless Feasts--and I had high hopes for this volume, but it turns out that indeed, I do not love Paris, it is France that I love. I read it in France, and was very much loving the things about France that I hold dear, so it was not a 'far removed' sort of problem. I do agree with my spouse, that the first 50 pages are very slow and it gets much much better after that, and there were two recipes that I marked and plan to make. But I brought home 6 pages of notes on things that I ate in restaurants while I was there that I want to do at home or incorporate into my cooking, so in other words, much more from a 10 day trip than this book provided. I would recommend it for a Francophile, or a Ruth Reichl fan (her piece in the book is classicly great, and so much in her style).

[Bess · Rating 2 out of 5]

I'm sure it was good. I mean, how could I not love this? A food memoir about Paris? It's like they know me!

Except... I just didn't love it. In fact, I got through the first 5 or so essays and then decided that someone else would love it a whole lot more.

[Jerry · Rating 4 out of 5]

A collection of beautifully written love letters to the dining experience in Paris. If you've never been it will give you a taste of the city, and if you have been it will remind of it's greatness.

[Connie Ciampanelli · Rating 2 out of 5]

Not everyone who read Gourmet magazine floated leisurely in an ocean of money, but you would hardly guess that from reading this collection. Remembrance of Things Paris: Sixty Years of Writing from Gourmet sets up the city as a world of kings and princes and dukes and barons, of renowned conductors and artists and writers. It is a world of haute couture, haute cuisine, haute monde, of fois gras and caviar and truffles and bottomless flutes of Champagne, of Cartier and Dior, of places filled with people who want to be seen at Maxim's ("The trademark of a Maxim's waiter is deftness of service and a turned-down mouth. Obviously, the regular customers here are solid enough in themselves that they don't need to be bolstered up by smiles from the help."), Lucas-Carlton, or "a secret club" populated with habitués (Ordinary citizens dare not set foot within its doors. The writer was deigned to enter only upon recommendation and was "given a tiny table near the kitchen door, the equivalent of Lower Siberia or maybe Outer Mongolia." Bafflingly, he seemed to enjoy the experience), and newer, twenty-first century establishments that cater only to the exceedingly wealthy. Absolutely absurd was the tale of a baby's christening repast that was on the scale of a state dinner.

Paralyzingly boring writing didn't help. Most of the pieces are by Naomi Barry and Joseph Wechsberg. You'd think that from sixty years of publishing there would be a wider representation of essayists. Stultifying snobbery, staggering disdain on the part of writers and restaurant personnel alike, Remembrance is the essence of exclusive.

"The worst mistake is to ask a man, 'Who are you? If I don't know who he is, he's got little chance.'" (M. Claude, maitre-d'hotel at Relais Plaza)

Some clients are sent to the bar and told to wait for their table. Some get discouraged or maybe have too many drinks and walk out, which was the idea anyway.

Les Elysées du Vernet ...is crawling with Frenchmen, natty in that particular kind of fitted blue suit they all seem to be wearing at the moment with almost identical striped shirts and plain, post-Regis ties, a room full of bankers and government men draining flutes of Champagne...

Baudic looked approvingly at a tub filled with pigeon blood, made from liquified hearts and livers. The deep color would be good for the final sauce.. "The pigeons were strangled," he said, playfully...It means their organs stay filled with blood.

Perhaps the most off-putting entry was "Grand Maters" by Jonathan Gold. His writing about la Grand Cuisine was a master class of arrogance, condescension, and haughtiness. Here is a small sample:

Next, perhaps, a superb Parmentier de sanglier au panais (a sort of shepher'd pie of stewed boar blanketed with mashed parsnips), followed by a simple dessert of crackly, thin wafers of sugared pastry, vanilla ice cream, and a sprinkling of roasted autumn fruits. With the dessert, a Beaumes-de-Venise. With the demitasse, a big bowl of sugared almonds and pistachios. On the way out the door, women are given long-stemmed roses, men, bags of those sugared nuts. One could hardly wish for a better lunch.

Followed by:

...other bistros I had visited were barely better than modest neighborhood cafes in New York, the ones that don't make it into the pages of Gourmet.

There are a handful of more accessible and interesting reflections within the collection: the story of Les Halles, a food marketplace in the heart of the city before relocating to the suburbs, of the flower market where one can buy "small violets and modest anemones to large plants and imposing trees for terraces and balconies," of a family of ice cream makers and another of chocolatiers, of an auction house where one must be careful not to nod the head and inadvertently make a purchase, of neighborhood bistros (as opposed to the "in" bistros at which to be).

Except for a very few, recipes included are fantastically complex, time consuming (I mean days) and most certainly not for the average home cook, even a very good, dedicated one.

Ruth Reichl, longtime editor at Gourmet, is herself an engaging writer. Her memoirs and cookbooks are delightful. Here, sadly, she contributes only the Introduction and a single essay. As editor she falls far wide of the mark.

A few years ago, I had the good fortune to spend ten days in France, three of them in Paris. It is far nicer and friendlier than is shown here. Had I read this book first I might not have been so eager to travel there. Thank goodness there is more to Paris than is found within these pages.

Don't bother.

[C.E. Case · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great exploration of Paris through the decades from an American point of view. Nicely devastating final essay.

Joseph Wechsberg comes across as a dick, though.

[Brooke Everett · Rating 2 out of 5]

This coming September, I'm heading to Paris for the first time ever and I could not be more excited. Belon oysters and Sancerre! Deep history imbued with the magic of so many great artists and icons! And more oysters!

Being the perpetual student that I am, I'm taking my "studying" very seriously prior to this trip. I want to arrive informed about not only where to find the greatest and best foie gras, but also about the city's pantheon of incredible restaurants and chefs.

This book really made it seem like a wearisome school task, though. Every time I picked it up, I made it through about four pages before I passed out. Certainly, there were pieces that qualified for five stars, but many of the older essays had a cadence and language that made for a total snoozefest. The selections that contained a bit of a story element grabbed my attention more quickly.

I am planning to look up whether a few of the old legendary establishments are still thriving.

From "Paris's Haute Chocolaterie," by Naomi Barry: "The Paris passion for haute chocolaterie is shameless in contrast to my wholesome background of divinity fudge and frosted cupcakes, where those who binged did so in private and were advised to keep it that way. Parisians, on the other hand, extol a bash of indulgence as a péché mignon (an adorable little sin). Just one more proof of Gallic greatness." p. 101

From "Bistros," by Naomi Barry: "One way of identifying a real Parisian is by the quality of his bistro list. A good list is considered part of his cultural baggage along with a knowledge of period furniture, modern art, and the fashion positions of Courrèges and Chanel." p. 133

From "Prunier," by Naomi Barry: "As late as the 1880s, the rule still held that no customer would be served unless he ordered oysters." p. 157

From "Lucas-Carton," by Naomi Barry: "There are seven private dining rooms upstairs where old-fashioned methods of discretion set the tone. The rooms can be approached by a side staircase leading from the passage de la Madeleine. A foot placed on the first step sets off a warning bell that rings upstairs. Whenever guests include political figures, waiters are changed with each course to eliminate the possibility of following a conversation. It all has the lovely seriousness of a spy story in the days before wiretapping." p. 160

"A great menu is like a page of history. This one has the added touch of magic that comes from pageantry and pomp, extravagance and audacity, and culinary genius. Just to read it is to tingle the buds of taste." p. 163

From "Maxim's," by Naomi Barry: "At the same period, the dapper Boni de Castellane, husband of Anna Gould and a Maxim's habitué, summed up the situation by quipping, 'Virtue is the mediocre attribute of women who have never had a chance to lose it.'" p. 171

From "A Little Black Magic," by Ruth Reichl (and my favorite piece in the book): "But you don't have to be at the table to understand that this is a passionate city, a place where the past and the present coexist and the future is filled with possibilities." p. 245

From "Grand Masters," by Jonathan Gold: "Like Glenn Gould, say, or Kurt Cobain, Gagnaire always seems to be prodding at the limits of his medium, perpetually on the brink of mayhem. It is the possibility of failure in his best dishes, plus the impression of an artist working at the edge of his abilities, that makes his cooking so thrilling." p. 316

[Anne Green · Rating 3 out of 5]

How could a Francophile food writer not be intrigued by a collection of sixty years of food writing about Paris? I looked forward to reading this book with keen anticipation and on the whole it didn't disappoint. Compiled by Ruth Reichl, for many years the editor in chief in Gourmet Magazine, it's an anthology of dispatches to Gourmet Magazine from various columnists based in Paris. It covers a period of sixty years, spanning the years immediately post World War 2 to the early 2000s. As Ruth Reichl states in the introduction, there were several decades when Paris was "a shrine for everyone who believed that eating well was the best revenge" and it's the best of those years that are represented in this book.

Once Paris emerged from the doldrums of the war years and their associated privations, it didn't take long for it to reassert its rightful position at the pinnacle of the gourmet world and the essays in this book are a testament to that Paris and the magic it conjured. Several writers tend to predominate, obviously because they were correspondents for larger chunks of time and the book reflects the writing style of those writers pretty much to the exclusion of the others. In particular, essays by Naomi Barry and Joseph Wechsberg are gems of history and fascinating insights into a world that has largely been displaced by more recent developments. It's a reminder of a Paris we all probably still think of in a nostalgic mood, even while acknowledging that it's a world that belongs to yesterday.

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a collection of essays from Gourmet magazine, but is not all about food--architecture, fashion, recent Parisian history, and other subjects are covered as well, although there are lots of yummy food and descriptions and plenty of restaurants reviewed, of course. There are even recipes from great chefs, which one can read guilt-free because usually the ingredients are unobtainable (rendered goose fat? in Provo, Utah?), but they sound delicious (and time-consuming). Most of all this book made me miss Paris and my little rented flat by the Fountain of the Innocents (a popular skateboarding venue) and walking all over the first, second, third, and fourth arrondisements, and taking the Metro to others. Recent events in Paris make me wish I could go back to that safe and lovely city, although the French will find a way to make it safe again, I hope, and it will always be lovely. (I am referring to the Charlie Hebdo murders, the attack on the market, and the recent coordinated terrorist attacks, as well as increased anti-Semitic activity as described by Marie Brenner in Vanity Fair.) One tiny complaint--I wish the dates had been at the beginning of each essay rather than at the end--especially in an e-book, this would have been helpful. Toujours Paris! Vive la France!

[Patty · Rating 2 out of 5]

”This is living history, vibrant and unself-conscious, and it offers an amazing opportunity to watch an entire civilization transform itself and move into what will become the present” p. xii

I appreciate what Reichl is saying in her introduction to these magazine articles. Reading across the years may give you a way of seeing what is going on in a place in the present. Unfortunately, these essays did not do that for me. I was entertained by some of these articles, but many of them left me unmoved and uninterested.

Maybe I don’t have enough familiarity with historical Paris. I am sure that some readers just love reading through this history of Paris. However, other books have transported me to a Paris I can imagine. These essays take me to a place that no longer exists and I can’t quit make myself comfortable there.

Maybe if I had been reading Gourmet magazine since it started in the 40’s, I would have been interested in revisiting what had been said. I had a much better time reading Reichl’s novel, Delicious and her memoirs.

[Linette · Rating 3 out of 5]

As with any collection of articles in a magazine, this was a mixed bag. I know this was a gourmet magazine collection but I enjoyed the articles that were more focussed on Paris than on food best.

[Hester · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book seems like it should be right up my alley. I love food and I love Paris. The essays, though, focus on a rarified slice of Paris that I just cannot relate to. One of the articles extolls the virtues of high French cuisine and says that "low cost bistros" like Les Bookinistes are not much better than the cafes in New York. The author simultaneously slammed New York and said a restaurant with an 80 euro tasting menu is "low cost."

The essays that appealed to me were either on the history of Paris("A Nose," about the history of Guerlain & "She Did Not Look like an Actress to Me," about the aging dandies of the belle epoque) or on the daily life of its residents. I especially enjoyed "The Christening," about the preparations that went into an upper class christening(the soups sound so exotic!) and "Sold!," about the Hotel Drouot, Paris' public auction house.

[Colleen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Mostly, this book was very entertaining, albeit pretentious, but it's divided into essays which are super easy to read through on the subway. It's my favorite kind of commuting literature - short & sweet & easy to pick up. "A Memory of Alice B. Toklas" is delightful, funny, warm and fascinating; I'm going on a mad search for more pieces by Naomi Berry because of it.

"Grand Masters," on the other hand, by Jonathan Gold is at times grossly greedy in terms of food descriptors. I felt as though he was teetering on a fine line of foodie or glutton, but ultimately came out like a fat king. THEN, after all his rigmarole, describing the "stink" of the stupid hare he had eaten 15 times in one week, they didn't even offer up the recipe! The essay ended with a mention about sugared nuts. And not the author's, so it was boring. I hate you, Jonathan Gold.

[Katie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was expecting to love this book, but alas I do not love it like I love Paris.
Granted it was interesting but more often than not i was bored and skimmed through some of the essays.
I gave it three stars because it was fun reading about the restaurants that have been a part of Paris for decades, if not centuries.
I made a list of restaurants that were written about years ago and are still around today.
Hopefully I can try them all at one point in my life.
But basically it was too long for me to enjoy.

2-15-23
Lol. I was about to recommend this book because in my mind - what I do remember about this book is quite favorable! So I’m at a loss! I def need to reread this book and see how I feel about it the second time through.
I’m keeping it at 3-stars for now but after I reread it (eventually) I’ll add notes! Too funny. I remember liking this book! What’s up with that?!?

[Julie · Rating 3 out of 5]

Here is another we gave to Tim's Mom, this one was for Mother's Day 2011 I believe. She read it quickly and gave it back to us, I forgot to ask her what she thought of it. Tim's Mom is French (born in Jacksonville, Oregon of French immigrant parents). She has been to France three times and keeps up with her relatives there. I don't know when we will get to this book and we will eventually!

[Virginia · Rating 2 out of 5]

Didn't check this out well and thought it was going to be writings of Ruch Reichle. Instead it is writings of several food editors, critics and correspondents about their experiences in Paris related to food. I must say it is strange to feel intimidated by just reading about famous resturants and their snobism.

[Wayne Laney · Rating 4 out of 5]

Paris, Gourmet, and Ruth Reichl: what's not to like? This is a wonderfully well-selected collection of pieces from several decades of Gourmet magazine. It is perhaps most enjoyable read slowly, a few articles at a sitting. There are descriptive passages among these articles that are some of the most evocative of places in Paris that I have ever read.

[Carol J. · Rating 4 out of 5]

As editor of Gourmet Magazine, Ruth Reichl compiles a selection of wonderful articles on food and eating in Paris for this book. Famous restaurants, bistro culture, great recipes, vignettes about eccentric chefs, French attitudes and culture....entertaining and fun and just plain made me want to go to go back to Paris!

[Cheryl · Rating 3 out of 5]

not what I expected, and not in a good way. With Reichl's name on the cover, I thought there would be some commentary/eassay by her woven through the book, but there isn't. Will give it another shot, though, to see if I like it better with realistic expectations.

[Jennifer · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was an incredibly fabulous book. I loved reading all the many stories of writers various experiences in Paris through the decades.

For someone who loves Paris, this is a must read and will make you want to go back to Paris and seek out some of the spots that are mentioned.

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great book to dip into on a Grey and cold winter evening. Dream of meals that you could be making and gorgeous French men who could be escorting you into restaurants to feast on oysters and veau blanquette instead of sitting in your nightie with the cat eating soft boiled eggs.

[Noelle · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book seems to be more about Paris the food in Paris. But I have not gotten very far.

[Juliana · Rating 3 out of 5]

A collection of articles from Gourmet magazine on French culture,specificly on food. It's a decent read,but read with a full stomach,because the decription of the food will make you hungry.

[Moira · Rating 5 out of 5]

Food. Paris. Nothing else to say.

[Laura]

Couldn't finish it...

[Margaret · Rating 3 out of 5]

again a good read

[Kara · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lots of beautiful food writing about Paris from the 40's to the present.

[Donna · Rating 3 out of 5]

Maybe I don't like food/travel writing as much as I thought.