Alexandra Jamieson, Vegan Cooking for Dummies (Wiley, 2011)
Once—just once—I'd like to come across a vegan cookbook, especially a vegan cookbook that is specifically geared towards beginners, that isn't written like it's preaching to the choir. I keep looking for them, because I'm actually interested in vegan cooking. Not because I'm a vegan myself, but I like finding interesting alternatives for ingredients that don't often get used in American cooking (how many recipes featuring celeriac, for example, can you find in a more general all-purpose cookbook? But what a wonderful vegetable it is!), and I cook for vegans every once in a while and like to have ideas around. And I hasten to add, before I go dragging this book through the mud, that I will certainly be keeping it around; the recipes themselves are quite useful, if nothing too much out of the ordinary. (I kind of expected that, this being specifically geared towards beginners.) But I'll never read anything but the recipes again.
Vegan cookbook authors all seem to be writing with a specific set of beliefs about their audience, which is why all of them I've read seem to be preaching to the choir. These are:
1. You are a vegan, or are considering becoming a vegan, because you have an ethical problem with the harming of animals (and that you consider such things as the harvesting of milk or honey to be harming animals). Going vegan for health reasons is only ever considered as a minor side benefit, rather than a central conceit.
2. You interchange the terms “harm” and “cruelty” without any sense of the difference between them. (if I get started on the idiocy of that subset of vegans who now use “cruelty-free” interchangeably with “vegan”, we'll be here all day. Jamieson does this more than any other author I've read, and it drove me up the wall every. single. time.)
3. Because you are vegan, or are interested in becoming so, you also have a vested interest in buying organic products.
4. Because you are vegan, or are interested in becoming so, you are against any foods containing genetically modified organisms.
The idea that someone could be reading this book who doesn't fit into ANY of those categories seems inconceivable to any vegan cookbook author I have so far encountered. I'm here to tell you they exist. I know this because I'm one of them.
Now that we're here and I'm on my soapbox (which, of course, contained only organic, GMO-free soap), let me discourse on a rather interesting sleight-of-hand I've always sort of suspected, but never seen used quite as blatantly as I have here: the ideological coloring of the unproven. Have you ever noticed how, if something is unproven, whether you're willing to throw your weight behind it is directly related to how well it fits in with your beliefs? Jamieson provides me with a wonderfully explicit duality in this regard. If something requires more study, and it doesn't fit in with her way of thinking, then it's bad and you shouldn't do it (specifically, she calls out GMO, since they've only been tested for short-term results on humans, and talks about how Teflon “may” leach chemicals into your food when using it at high temperatures). But if something requires more study and it DOES fit in with her way of thinking, then suddenly it becomes “promising” and you should do as much of it as possible. (The use of certain unrefined sugars being “promising” despite them having been studied, basically, not at all as a food additive was the one that really got me thinking about this subject, especially in relation to this book.) If you're going to rant and rave about the unstudied, jeez, at least be consistent, will you?
Recommended for the recipes, but skip the proselytizing unless you're already a part of the church. But even then, it's nothing you haven't heard before. **