White Women, Helmut Newton's legendary first work, appeared more than twenty years ago. With it's superior mixture of aesthetics, technical perfection and bourgeois decadence it has lost nothing of its potency and attractiveness. Newton's work encompasses a wealth of themes, also embodying facets of the mass-media world of glamour, masquerade and show. Using subtle, yet striking images—like those of Paloma Picasso, Veruschka, Elsa Peretti, Karl Lagerfeld, David Hockney, and Charlotte Rampling—Newton embraces the delicate, natural beauty of the naked female body. White Women is a masterpiece of erotic visual literature.
Helmut Newton, born Helmut Neustädter was a German-Australian fashion photographer noted for his nude studies of women.
Born to a German-Jewish button-factory owner and an American mother, Newton attended the Heinrich-von-Treitschke-Realgymnasium and the American School in Berlin. Interested in photography from the age of twelve when he purchased his first camera, he worked for the German photographer Yva (Else Neulander Simon) from 1936. The increasingly oppressive restrictions placed on Jews by the Nuremberg laws meant that his father lost control of the factory in which he manufactured buttons and buckles; he was even briefly interned in a concentration camp. ‘Kristallnacht’ on 9 November 1938 compelled the family to leave Germany.
Newton's parents fled to Chile. He was issued with a passport just after turning 18, and left Germany on 5 December 1938. At Trieste he boarded the 'Conte Rosso' (along with about two hundred others escaping the Nazis) intending to journey to China. After arriving in Singapore, Newton was interned by British authorities and was sent to Australia on board the 'Queen Mary'. Internees travelled to the camp of Tatura, Victoria by train under armed guard. He was released from internment in 1942, and briefly worked as a fruit-picker in northern Victoria. In April 1942, he enlisted with the Australian Army and worked as a truck driver. After the war, in 1945 he became an Australian citizen, and changed his name to Newton in 1946. In 1948 he married actress June Browne.She later became a successful photographer known as Alice Springs.
In 1946, Newton set up a studio in fashionable Flinders Lane and worked primarily on fashion photography in the affluent post-war years. He shared his first joint exhibition in May 1953 with Wolfgang Sievers, a German refugee like himself who had also served in the same Company. The exhibition of ‘New Visions in Photography’ was held at the Federal Hotel in Collins Street and was probably the first glimpse of 'New Objectivity' photography in Australia. Newton went into partnership with Henry Talbot, a fellow German Jew who had also been interned at Tatura.
Newton's growing reputation as a fashion photographer was rewarded when he secured a commission to illustrate fashions in a special Australian supplement for Vogue magazine, published in January 1956. He won a twelve-month contract with British Vogue and he left for London in February 1957. He left the magazine before the end of his contract and went to Paris where he worked for French and German magazines. He returned to Melbourne in March 1959 to a contract for Australian Vogue.
He settled in Paris in 1961 and continued work as a fashion photographer. His works appeared in magazines including, most significantly, French Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. He established a particular style marked by erotic, stylised scenes, often with sado-masochistic and fetishistic subtexts. A heart attack in 1970 slowed his output somewhat but he extended his work and his notoriety/fame greatly increased, notably with his 1980 "Big Nudes" series which marked the pinnacle of his erotic-urban style, underpinned with excellent technical skills. He also worked in portraiture and more fantastical studies.
Newton was extremely fond of his hometown of Berlin, and in October 2003 he donated an extensive photo collection to the Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation, establishing the Helmut Newton Foundation. The foundation’s aim is the conservation, protection and presentation of the oeuvre of Helmut Newton and Alice Springs.
In his later life, Newton lived in Monte Carlo and Los Angeles. He was killed when his car hit a wall in the driveway of the famous Chateau Marmont, the hotel on Sunset Boulevard which had for several years served as his residence in Southern California. It has been speculated that Newton suffered a heart attack in the moments before the collision. His ashes are buried next to Marlene Dietrich at
One of the classic collections of fashion/erotica... Newton added dark elegance and eerie abstract s/m trappings to fashion photography--- and altered the whole concept of what style and transgression could be.
A stereotypically beautifully white woman with a model's hairless and fat-free body which culminates in a Monroe-esque pile of platinum blond hair is captured in a large luxury hotel room furnished with tasteful MCM furnishings. Nude except for designer underwear, expensive shoes, and fetishy elbow length gloves. She is straddling a businessman who is attired in a fashionable suit. She is suffocating the life out of him with a pillow.
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Helmut Newton was the progenitor of a new kind of fashion photography, where artful eroticism is intermixed with conventional images of objectified female beauty. The images in this book are evocative of many complicated feelings, a mix of old and new luxurious settings that signal a worldly wealth suffused with darkness, erotic gamesmanship, cruelty, even hints of fascism. There's something dreamlike and bizarre about his photographs, even as he insists they are not that far removed from actual life. Often imitated but seldom equaled, to use a cliche, this is a stirring collection (even if, the progressive in me has to feel a little uncomfortable with its universe of masculine possession).
Couldn't resist to pick this one up when having a look at the cover and wasn't disappointed. Alluring women being photographed in fantastic locations and settings by a true master. Really enjoyed those erotic photos and can highly recommend having a look at those great photo compositions. Excellent coffee table book!