Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit: Using the Rub-off Technique to Re-create and Redesign Your Favorite Fashions

by Steffani Lincecum

What’s the Secret to Sewing Great-Fitting Garments?
The Rub-off—the Insider’s Technique for Creating a Great-Fitting Pattern!
 
Do you love to sew your own clothes but find it difficult to make commercial patterns fit? Has your favorite blouse seen better days but is no longer available in stores? Have you gained or lost weight so that your most flattering skirt doesn’t fit quite right, or would you like to update it by remaking it in a new fabric or adding new details? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you’ll find the solution right in your own closet—by creating customized sewing patterns using garments you already own and love to wear.
 
In Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit, Hollywood and theater costume designer Steffani Lincecum demonstrates the rub-off, a method of pattern drafting used by fashion and costume industry professionals that traces an existing garment or accessory without deconstructing or damaging it. Steffani starts with the basics, outlining two rub-off methods—tracing onto paper or draping with fabric—and explaining essential tools, materials, and sewing techniques. She then shows how to duplicate a skirt, a dress, a blouse, and a handbag, from rubbing-off the original, to creating the pattern, to cutting and sewing the new version, to making adjustments and incorporating a variety of other elements and details—not only refreshing your favorite fashions but replenishing your whole wardrobe with brand-new looks.

Genres: Sewing, Crafts, Fashion, Nonfiction, Reference, Patternmaking

176 pages, Paperback

First published October 19, 2010

Reviews

[Margie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Useful information, clear illustrations, and good example of modifications to a basic pattern. I'm totally impressed that she describes how to do a rub-off of a purse. A purse! I do wish that she had shown pants, though of course the principles are the same.

[Marnie · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book discusses two methods for making patterns from existing garments, without disassembling them and both are described well.

The book illustrates creating patterns from three existing garments and then provides an assortment of modifications for different styles of garments. While these are nice, it's sort of peculiar to have pattern modification tips for patterns you have no access to. The idea is clearly to extrapolate out to whatever garment you copy but I feel like it would have been better if the three base garment patterns were offered with the book, even if it were just in a single size.

[Cara · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book explains very clearly, step by step, how to make a pattern from an existing garment or object, and then how to alter it. It also explains why things are done the way they are, and what will go wrong if you ignore the instructions. There are so many books that I’ve wished would explain the reasoning behind what they say, so kudos to this author for doing so!

This book can’t be renewed anymore, but I want to get it again and actually use it.

Note to self: The library has a bunch of other books on this topic. They appeared less cool than this one but some may be more thorough. I don’t feel like writing them all down, so search again if you want them.

[Colette · Rating 3 out of 5]

I think the title is misleading. There is very little about fitting. This is a good book for learning how to copy something you already have. A good starting point for learning rub-off.

[Tracy Shephard · Rating 4 out of 5]

Using your own clothes this book teaches you how to make a superb pattern that fits you perfectly.

How many times have we all bought clothes only to find that in certain places they are too long, too tight or just not quite right.

This book enables, even a beginner to be able to make a garment that is wearable and suited to your body shape. Not only that, you can then reuse your pattern pieces to make several of your favourite garments in all of your favourite colours. 

It is a book filled with expert knowledge, and while you will have to remember that you have a different style to the garments shown, it is a good teaching manual.  

Facings, sleeves, hems and much much more are given a face lift, and with handy hints and tricks, you will soon have a custom made garment that flatters and fits. 

[Kati · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book shows two methods of tracing off existing clothes, but the author plays it pretty fast and loose. It seems she's more concerned with getting the general style line than with making the copy as close to exact as possible. She doesn't go into extreme detail, and her technique has a lot of 'fudging' when there are darts or tucks.
If you are also a fast-and-loose kind of sewist who just needs to know the basics and then will figure out the rest as you go, this book is a good match and has some other nice tips. If you want to make more exact copies, and want more detailed instructions, I recommend Tracy Doyle's Patterns From Finished Clothes instead. It goes into much more detail and is more concerned with precise results.

[Connie Pilachowski · Rating 5 out of 5]

So this is a bit more advanced than I expected. I'm still a beginning sewer so most of what's in this book I probably won't use but it's really good information to know. I just wanted to recreate my favorite shirt and I got a lot more than I bargained for out of this book!

I especially liked that it has full color pictures and and lots of them! I was pleasantly surprised that it also includes possible alterations (and pictures for all of them) in case you want to change the final product.

I got this from my library but if I ever get more seriously into sewing clothing, this will be a must buy. For now, the knowledge of HOW to make a pattern from an existing item is most important for me.

[Peep1031 · Rating 4 out of 5]

There are excellent photos and diagrams in this book. It teaches a method of copying a garment to make a new pattern by a method called the "rub-off technique." It also has a lot of tips that I found very useful such as ways to match fabric patterns and sewing corners. (I have been following the instructions for corners in the commercial pattern company instructions and they have never come out great. I couldn't figure out why.) The garments copied are all pretty basic and look like they would flatter a wide range of body types. As others have mentioned I found the title a little misleading. I borrowed this book from the library as I was looking for techniques to fit garments to size. There is no information on how to alter the pattern process if the source garment is smaller or larger than your size. It assumes you are copying a garment that fits you pretty well already. However this was a happy find in that I now have a way to copy those old worn out garments that I love but cannot find in the store anymore.

[Christina · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is going on my wish-list.

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very useful book.

[Kara · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great book about creating patterns from existing and vintage clothing.

[Saman Dinesh]

good