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Paddle to the Arctic: The Incredible Story of a Kayak Quest Across the Roof of the World

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Don Starkell decided to paddle a kayak from Hudson Bay 3,000 miles through the Northwest Passage.

Paddle to the Arctic is Don's diary of his journey from Churchill, Manitoba, north and then west all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, close to Alaska. The voyage took him three Arctic summers. Each attempt almost cost him his life.

The first year, aged fifty-seven and "very scared," Don paddled north through the thawing ice-fields. How he survived a spill in frigid waters miles from shore before fighting his way home is in itself an incredible story. On his return to Churchill he was greeted by a local with the words "I was hoping you wouldn't make it back." Why? "If guys like you are successful, it will encourage others to try, and the whole west shore of Hudson Bay will be piled deep with bodies."

Undeterred, Don tried again the next year with two companions. Fred soon gave up, but Victoria gamely survived their jousts with polar bears, walrus, and other hazards all the way to Repulse Bay. (For most readers, one of the book's pleasures is learning the geography of the North as Don visits each community in turn.)

The third year was the big test. Dragging their sleds across the peninsulas proved to be too tough, and snowmobiles had to be used to get to Spence Bay. Then it was straight across the frozen sea, hauling their kayaks on sleds.

Although Victoria had to give up ("My God, he'll kill us both," she told a Winnipeg paper), Don kept on, not seeing another human being for weeks, and risking his life as he waded across the thawing ice ("Fell through the ice up to my neck at least ten times yesterday ..."). At Cambridge Bay he abandoned the sled and threaded his way through the breaking ice by kayak, out into open water. There he confronted storms, giant Arctic seas, and ("August 19 - snow!") the growing threat of freeze-up.

The variety of Don's adventures will astonish every reader. "So far on my voyage," he writes, "I have seen polar bear, grizzly, caribou, reindeer, muskox, belugas, whales, seal, walrus, Arctic hare, siksik, lemmings, fox, and lots of Arctic birds." Whenever his days seem about to settle into a rhythm, another crisis erupts. The landscape changes, from welcoming Inuit settlements or camps, to permanently smoking hills, and from an historic site where he finds an explorer's sword hilt, to surf-lashed cliffs.

And as he closes in on his destination, his supplies running out and his ocean highway freezing over, we find ourselves sharing his blazing, driving determination to reach his goal, at the risk of his life. This compelling book makes armchair travel the ideal way to go.

304 pages, Hardcover

First published September 1, 1995

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About the author

Don Starkell

7 books13 followers
Don Starkell was a Canadian adventurer, diarist and author, perhaps best known for his achievements in canoeing. Born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, he had a difficult childhood including an abusive father, four and a half years in an orphanage, and later with a foster family in North Kildonan.

He took up canoeing in his teens and competed professionally, including as part of the Manitoba team that won the Expo 67 Centennial Voyageur Canoe Pageant race.

In 1980–1982, Starkell and his two sons canoed from Winnipeg, Canada, to Belem, Brazil, a distance of 19,603 kilometers. In 1990, Starkell attempted to kayak the Northwest Passage.

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 33 reviews
Profile Image for Matt.
4,847 reviews13.1k followers
June 21, 2025
After Don Starkell decided to make the canoe trip of a lifetime—a 12,000-mile journey from Winnipeg, Canada to Belém, Brazil—he did not shelve his dreams. Rather, Don wanted to try something else, a new feat that no one had attempted. His goal was to take a kayak from Churchill, Manitoba, to Tuktoyaktuk, close to Alaska. This is the journal of that adventure and the many pitfalls that Don encountered along the way. Forced to make three attempts from 1990-1992, Don showed his determination and, at times, recklessness, as he sought to overcome his fears to push himself a little further. Much like his acclaimed book, Paddle to the Amazon, this tells of a journey that permitted one man to conquer adversity and triumph in the face of doubt. Another well-paced book that will have readers happy to have joined the journey.

Much like the canoe trip that Don Starkell and his son, Dana, took in 1980, this trip would require planning and training. As Starkell notes at the start, he was older and yet also had a little more experience. That said, this journey to Canada's Arctic North could not have been more different than the previous trek through to the Amazon. Now in a kayak and at the mercy of weather, Starkell had to use his skills and knowledge of weather patterns to determine how far he could make it and when to toss in the proverbial towel.

The first attempt in 1990 saw Don paddle through some of the ice fields outside Churchill, though he took a major spill in the waters and realised that he could not go on, with the weather and time being a factor. He was forced to trek back and barely made it, before agreeing to shelve his attempt untll the following year. He did, however, learn a great deal about what he would need to do and how better to prepare for the journey.

Returning in 1991, Starkell had two companions wanting to take the trek with him. Both Fred and Victoria came with their own kayaks and supplies, though they were surely not ready for what lay before them. As Starkell notes in the book, Fred thought it more an enjoyable adventure and soon bowed out, whle Victoria stuck around to see how she could complement things. Starkell speaks of the ups and downs that took place with companions, as well as the heartbreak when Fred left. He also highlights the vasty different mindsets that both he and Victoria had with regards to the journey. Tensions rose and the two had their differing expectations challenge them. They were forced to end their journey in Repulse Bay for the year, as paddling would be too difficult and the ice was beginning to take over the water.

The 1992 push would have Don and Victoria beginning from Repulse Bay, though their launch was delayed by Victoria's work schedule, something that Starkell cited as being a hurdle that could cost them success in Tuktoyaktuk by the end of the season. The mounting clashes would have Victoria soon bow out and cite that Starkell was simply too reckless in his approach and put victory ahead of safety. Heart broken and yet determined to succeed, Starkell forged onwards alone and made the journey one he would not forget.

It is at this point that the reader becomes closely connected to Don Starkell and his accomplishments. Many of the journal entries are detailed about what he saw and the water situation. Hunting for shelter was also a highly troubling thing, as Starkell admits he came close to death on numerous occasions. However, his determination and focus on trying to extract intel from anyone he passed made Don's sense of adventure something that parallels that of his experience canoeing to the Amazon. As his supplies dwindled and time was slowly making a final push essential, Don Starkell found an unexpected end to his journey with Tuktoyaktuk on the horizon,
with injuries to body and perhaps his mind, but his pride intact. This was a journey for the ages and the reader can be blessed that they were able to join the experience.

While I remember this adventure only in passing, while reading this book I was reminded that I met Don Starkell one week before his second trip up to the Arctic. The inscription on my copy of Paddle to the Amazon was a mere eight days before he began journaling with Fred and Victoria, making this a little more realistic for me. Having recently re-read the aforementioned book, I could draw parallels and vast differences between the two adventures, as well as the settings that Don Starkell encountered. It was also his attempt to write himself, rather than use someone else as wordsmith, which allowed the narrative to flow well and keeps the reader engaged. The stories that emerge from each entry proved stellar in painting a picture of what was taking place, as well as how determination was truly the fuel that pushed Don Starkell towards his end goal. Meeting many people along the way, Don made sure to pull the reader in and offered up his own thumbnail sketch of those who crossed his path. A book of this nature is always full of surprises and great build-up. The curious reader will see all the intricacies that Don Starkell sought to portray, as well as the debilitating injuries he suffered and the horrible end result. However, I will let readers discover these, as I did for myself. I could not have asked for more and am blessed to have been able to take this second adventure with Don Starkell!

Kudos, Mr. Starkell, for another stunning adventure story. Readers will surely be swept up in all you did and overcame!

Love/hate the review? An ever-growing collection of others appears at:
http://pecheyponderings.wordpress.com/
Profile Image for Mark.
95 reviews2 followers
July 16, 2014
A disturbing book written by a deeply troubled individual who lacked the artifice to smooth over the raw edges of his insanity or apparently the self awareness to learn much about himself from his self-destructive endeavors. Reading these two books was like watching someone walk into traffic on a very busy highway. If by the careless twist of a completely implacable and uninterested fate, he actually makes it to the other side and stands there exulting in triumph, your only reaction is inevitably a creeping sensation down your spine as you contemplate the lunacy of the act.
Profile Image for David Canford.
Author 20 books44 followers
February 20, 2016
Not content with canoeing from Canada to the Amazon, Don Starkell sets himself the challenge of kayaking Canada's arctic coastline. It takes three attempts to get properly underway and he pushes on not knowing whether he will survive or not.
His treatment of his initial travelling companion indicates he cares more about his end goal than anything else which is not an attractive characteristic. Not as well written as "Paddle to the Amazon" but I still gave it a top rating as the challenge and environment were even harder.
3 reviews1 follower
June 13, 2014
I recently finished reading the book Paddle To The Arctic, another book written by Don Starkel, the author of the popular true story "Paddle To The Amazon". After reading Starkel's previous book about his epic journey from Winnipeg to the Amazon river in a canoe I was eager to read his next book. In the Book Paddle to the Arctic Don aims to paddle from Winnipeg to a the Yukon during the few weeks in the summer in which this Arctic passage is not entirely blocked by ice. During his trip Starkel strugles with nature, the cold and the feeling of isolation that can only be achieved from paddling a kayak alone throughout the barren arctic. Sadly Don was never able to compete his journey due to an early winter storm that arose towards the end of his voyage. The storm capsized his small kayak in the frigid waters and Don ultimately had to be saved by search and rescue or he would have died. As a result of his time spent in the freezing water Don Starkel had to have the tips of all his fingers amputated due to severe frostbite.

Personally I found this book to be far less enjoyable than Paddle To the Amazon, partially because it is even less structured and is only just a compilation of short journal entries. Starkel does do a good job describing the setting of the book, and he gives the reader a good impression of how lonely and harsh the arctic was even during the short summer. The fact that the protagonist, (Don Starkel) was the only consistent character throughout the book made things a little boring to be honest, and while he is an interesting person, the story does get a little dull because there is no consistent contact between characters for large portions of the book. The plot in the book is a little random as it just follows Don's journey through the arctic but it is still exciting at times and adequately interesting.

Ultimately I was a little disappointed with this book a I was expecting it to live up to Don Starkel's previous book Paddle to the Amazon. This book simply just isn't as interesting or exciting to read as Paddle to the Amazon, and id really an inferior book in everyway. That being said while I would recommend Paddle to the Amazon to everyone, you should really only read Paddle to the Arctic if you are very interested in this genre of boo
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Alexander Weber.
276 reviews57 followers
March 2, 2017
Incredible! This man's mission to go from Churchill, Manitoba, and through the Northwest Passage is inspiring and fucking incredible! The book is written in diary format, so that you experience every day of this man's trip. He experiences SO MANY hardships, and is quite possibly the luckiest person I've ever heard of, and definitely the most stubborn. How does one not give up? Near the end, he is so lonely and fed up with the trip...it is good to know he's human.
Such a great read. I'll have to check out his other book. 4.5/5 stars. Page turner for sure.
Profile Image for Debbie.
673 reviews3 followers
October 17, 2023
It probably deserves at least 3.5 stars, but I was so very cold as I read this account. I don’t know why I read books about Everest or the Arctic, it’s kind of punishing.
Starkell has written another epic adventure book. Sadly, his last.
Profile Image for Karen-lisa Forbes.
7 reviews
March 12, 2021
A train wreck I couldn't stop reading. A good how "not to" adventure.

I read this book after reading Victoria Jason's - Kabloona in the Yellow Kayak (a slog of self pity). I wanted to read his take on their first paddle together on Hudson Bay. It was vastly different take. By then I was too far in to quit.

I do admire his frankness about his mistakes and fears. Beyond that it's a head scratches.
Profile Image for Pancho.
31 reviews3 followers
April 11, 2012
A interesting look into the landscape of this remote region. Also a good look into this man's mission to accomplish his goal. He truly was willing to pay the ultimate price to finish his journey and I had to respect that in a way. The questioned remained in my mind, why?
Profile Image for Bruce Butler.
Author 3 books3 followers
November 24, 2019
I enjoy stories about people taking on incredibly arduous adventures to explore our planet.

Starkell’s book reminds me of the stories written about the British arctic explorers of a century ago: adventurers with an overwhelming desire to explore without fully comprehending the level of effort required or the dangers ahead.

Reading about how he tackled some of the challenges the Arctic threw at him, I couldn’t decide whether Starkell was incredibly brave or incredibly naive. Probably a bit of both. He did a good job of describing the emotional and physical toll the journey had on him; I found it hard to put the book down.

Starkell’s voyage took place in the early 1990s, so it was interesting to read about his use of GPS during its infancy, when there wasn’t always enough satellites visible to get a position fix.

The story is worth four stars, but the writing isn’t all that good, often switching from first-person accounts to “notebook-ese” within the same paragraph, so I split the difference on the book's final rating.
Profile Image for Jacquie.
102 reviews1 follower
December 11, 2021
Read both Victoria Jason’s and Don Starkell’s account of their together and separate kayak journeys. Certainly Jason is the more likeable protagonist but Starkell makes for a much more exciting story. Between obsession for miles, stealing, breaking and entering, his indignation that people wouldn’t drop everything to spend their money and time to “help” an entitled adventurer, I couldn’t put down the train wreck that was his story. He wouldn’t even tip the guy who drove him hundreds of miles across the tundra on his snowmobile. Similar occurrences in Paddle to the Amazon. But, that’s what makes Starkell who he is, what drove him on and what made me want to read his book.
Profile Image for Beverly.
239 reviews3 followers
August 1, 2022
I picked this up because I like stories of the Canadian north. Many times while reading this book I thought this guy is crazy, alternating with holy crap he's in shape for his age (I'm younger than he was and I couldn't even think to attempt this). Having finished the book, I look back and think, this was a labour of love. There weren't many days that Starkell reported an easy going trek. The determination (or reckless thinking) required to complete this journey is hard to fathom.

As an aside, I was in Europe during the 1992 part of Starkell's journey, so as I read, I thought about where I was and what I was doing while he make his trek (we both have journal entries on the same days).
Profile Image for Agnes.
75 reviews1 follower
January 31, 2020
It is a bit hard to write a review for someone’s non-fiction high adventure. I enjoyed Don’s writing, as I am a fan of nature writing, but he also did a good job of describing his days of paddling. It was a quick read. There was a part where he describes one of the women he meets as beautiful, which was a little disappointing as he doesn’t use physical descriptions with his male acquaintances. Very nerve racking at the end, but I was especially touched by his descriptions of his thoughts and feelings when he spent a night on his freezing kayak.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Brittany Gervais.
3 reviews
June 8, 2025
I may be biased, as I am Fred Refflers (only) grand daughter, but I loved the recounting of this adventure they had.
These stories filled my childhood and brought me so much pride for my Opa, even if he wasn’t able to complete his journey with Don.
What an adventure they had. Whether you think they were reckless (they were), or crazy for trying (yep, they were that too), it is still an incredible story of adventure into the unknown. In a time of no cell phones or GPS.
339 reviews3 followers
March 13, 2020
Starkell stands out from the pack in the too-often dull genre of modern first-person adventure travel narratives. The format of brief diary narratives, an audacious goal, and Starkell's unique blend of understatement, pigheadedness and sheer insanity makes this one a delight to experience vicariously, just as with "Paddle to the Amazon". Just be glad you're not physically there with him.
123 reviews
January 22, 2019
Don Starkell writes about his summers (3? Or 2?) of his quest to navigate the Canadian Arctic shore by human power. Most of the book is a long account of a trip I would not want to be sharing with him. Near the end, it finally becomes crazily life-threatening.
Profile Image for Jess.
28 reviews1 follower
August 28, 2019
At times the author is quite arrogant and the way he writes about his early travel partners is off-putting. However, the overall story is amazing and the challenges he overcame on his journey are incredible - you warm up to Don by the end of the book. Worth the read for sure.
1 review
Read
September 17, 2020
Anyone who has ever attempted long distance self supported travel will appreciate this book and likely identify with the author’s need to embark on a truly challenging adventure. Great book. I admire Don Starkell’s drive and his honesty.
Profile Image for Brittany.
214 reviews6 followers
October 5, 2025
An inspiring adventure in the arctic circle, but also a study on the personality type of those that take on crazy journeys…interested to read Victoria’s book.
Profile Image for Dennis.
22 reviews
September 22, 2010
Don Starkell is a man who just loves to push. Ten years before this adventure, he had travelled from Winnipeg, Manitoba to Belem, Brazil with his son in a canoe, an adventure he chronicled in Paddle to the Amazon. In that book, it became clear that Don is a man who pushes and pushes, often taking serious risks and frequently endangering himself and his fellow travellers. In Paddle to the Arctic, that tendency is again very evident.

The trip is, of course, a fascinating enterprise, and Don has a keen observer's eye and a strong desire to share his experiences. Though he occasionaly comes across as arrogant and egotistical, he also frequently comes across as very honest about his experiences.

Some of the most interesting material in the book is not about the trip per se, but about Don's relationships with his co-adventurers. In Paddle to the Amazon, Don frequently wrote about arguments with his son Dana, sometimes nearly coming to blows, largely due to Don's intense desire to push forward at all cost. Now in Paddle to the Arctic, Don is again having arguments with his partner, but now with Victoria Jason, who is also concerned about Don's intense desire to push forward at all cost. Victoria Jason had to pull out of the expedition in 1992 due to muscle failure on her second trip with Don.

What emerges is a story of a man obsessed with proving himself, even to the point of risking life and limb (literally). It's an entertaining and exciting story, but is a little disturbing at the same time.

Don's partner on much of his voyage, Victoria Jason, later returned to the north and continued kayaking on her own. She also published a book, Kabloona in the Yellow Kayak, which should provide an interesting alternative view to much of their shared trip.
Profile Image for Liralen.
3,350 reviews278 followers
December 15, 2015
Definitely a fascinating story. Strong writing and unflinching details. It was at times difficult to sympathise with the author/narrator - he was a bit, hmm, arrogant at times - but he writes about failure as well as success, and the lack of dramatics in the writing make the story (which is dramatic) even more compelling.
19 reviews
February 26, 2011
Differing by local from his paddle to the amazon. This book begins with a new relationship and ends with the overwhelming solitariness of the artic. Another good read with more interaction of nature and sparce human population.
Profile Image for Gary.
99 reviews3 followers
July 27, 2009
Absolutely bonkers! No wonder his first partner legged it; she knew waht was coming and come it did! An adventure for sure.
Profile Image for Hannah Dorah.
7 reviews3 followers
August 2, 2012
So good I had a hard time putting it down. Real life travel and adventure at the end of your fingertips!
Profile Image for Jean.
51 reviews
January 8, 2013
I re-read this one every few years, enjoy it every time.
1 review
Read
August 27, 2014
How the fuck do I read this book on this app, havant got a clue how this app works, it won't let me read it
7 reviews
May 15, 2015
Good book, interesting adventure. I couldn't put it down, but I thought he was very foolish in some of his choices.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 33 reviews

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