An authentic culinary journey—part memoir, part cookbook—introducing readers to the people, places, and food of UmbriaVeteran food critic Suzanne Carriero spent a year and a half in Umbria, and this is her intimate look at its ancient recipes, traditions, and the people who pass them on. Each of the book's eight chapters features local cooks, as their personal stories are as much a part of the cuisine's essence as are the crops they grow and the family dishes they prepare.Anecdotes, sidebars, and boxes are used throughout the book to further illustrate Umbrian life—from buying a rabbit in the country, to making torta di Pasqua for Easter, to reading the Italian wine label, and drinking cappuccino after lunch (a serious breach in tradition). With a food and wine glossary included as a reference for travelers, The Dog Who Ate the Truffle immerses the reader in the people, cuisine, and lifestyle that few are privileged to experience. Suzanne's colorful stories and authentic classic recipes make for an intimate and illustrious travel cookbook.
I'm usually a big fan of memoir/cookbooks (those that combine travelling stories, life stories, etc with recipes), but this one definitely fell short. It feels a bit scattered, and doesn't read entirely easily as a memoir or a cookbook, sadly.
Review Note: At this time, I have read the book only (including skim-reading the recipes) but have not tested the recipes themselves, so this review is based more on the memoir side of things. Once I have cooked through several of the dishes, I will update with a more cooking-based review.
While there are many interesting stories of the local cuisine and culture in Umbria, the layout of the book is it's downfall. The stories are arranged into types of people, rather than food types or in a chronological order, so characters may appear in a few places, but not be connected. Some descriptions of cultural norms are repeated (almost every chapter will remind you that the traditional appetizer in Umbria is liver pate on toasted bread. A reader really only needs to hear that once.), some characters feel abandoned partway through, and it simply doesn't read easily.
There also seems to be some confusion as to the style. At some points, she speaks directly to the reader, becoming almost chatty about her new friends- but we learn almost nothing about her, personally. There is no real connection to the writer herself. She also includes quite cold, academic sections on wine-making, or on the history of a festival, which don't match with the more personal sections. Added to that are sections that read like a casual travel guide; going to a festival and "then for lunch" (where the lunch isn't described!), recommendations for purchasing items at a market, whether or not to make a restaurant reservation or how much to tip. There are threads connecting all of these disparate elements, but it doesn't tie together fully, and you are left unsure of what, exactly, you are reading.
Very surprisingly, for a food memoir, the book rarely made me hungry. She seems more concerned with describing idyllic settings and a fantasy of family sitting down to eat together than with describing the food itself. (Which is fine for a travel memoir, say, but doesn't really work here.) It DID make me want to visit the area, but not necessarily for the food.
In general, this didn't connect with me on any level - while it was interesting, it wasn't particularly engaging. Definitely not one to read all the way through, but perhaps amusing to flick through while cooking.
I didn't actually finish this book. Umbria is one of my favorite regions in Italy, and I usually like memoirs that are sprinkled with recipes. I did not care for Carreiro's writing though; it lacked oomph. The descriptions of the people, setting and incidents were okay, but nothing special. I was hoping to be magically transported to Umbria, but the author just couldn't get me there.
Still reading ... the author could have done so much more ... with the recipes and the experiences ... Okay, so I didn't really 'finish' this ... half way through was enough. There are only so many lamb and rabbit recipes one can accommodate.
I thought I want to put this book on sale after reading it as I find many part of it unrelatable with what I'm looking for when purchasing this book and also, most of the recipes are not doable for someone who prefers simple and easy cooking method. But, I changed my mind. I liked it and really enjoyed reading it towards the half part of the book. I became fascinated with Umbrian food. Well, I guess my mind has been absorbed with the aroma of wood oven pizza making, the smell of truffles hunted on the mountainous top, skillful gnocchi making and not forgetting fresh pasta and crostini as well as spaghetti and lasagna. Having said that, I might try some simple pasta recipes, who knows :) Reading this book, makes me aware of Italian food culture especially the ones in Umbria. I can't help but Sara (my Italian friend) always came into my mind while reading this. Although she's not from Umbria but I had made some mental notes of what to ask her regarding Italian food. Another thing that crossed my mind while reading this is how the country was badly hit by Covid-19 last year and I wonder if people still gather around during the harvests and carnivals? I do hope, Italian food culture persevere despite the troubles the world is facing.
When a food writer moves to Umbria, the first thing she does is learn to speak the local dialect. Once she can. converse with her neighbors, she then asks them to teach her how to cook.
The ensuing book is a melange of folklore, anecdotes, recipes and instructions. Fun to read, it is well suited to be read in bits and pieces rather than in one long sitting. My main quibble is that it feels too slight, need more substance to reaching its potential.
I have not yet made any of the described dishes, but several are on my list to try.
I really enjoyed this book because it was so very authentic to the Umbrian experience. Her recipes are so helpful and detailed. I wasn't crazy about all of her narrative writing styles, but the purpose of her book and the recounting of her Umbrian cooking and eating experiences were awesome.