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Downtown: My Manhattan

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Pete Hamill is a New York native who has never stopped loving his city. In this memoir of his life there, he begins with his first sight of the skyline, from Brooklyn, when he was a boy, and goes on to walk the city's streets, from Times Square south to the tip of the island. Mixing history and architecture with personal recollections, Hamill conveys a deep appreciation for New York and an awareness that the basic tolerance New Yorkers develop toward each other is what holds the place together in all its staggering diversity.

320 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2004

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About the author

Pete Hamill

110 books560 followers
Pete Hamill was a novelist, essayist and journalist whose career has endured for more than forty years. He was born in Brooklyn, N. Y. in 1935, the oldest of seven children of immigrants from Belfast, Northern Ireland. He attended Catholic schools as a child. He left school at 16 to work in the Brooklyn Navy Yard as a sheetmetal worker, and then went on to the United States Navy. While serving in the Navy, he completed his high school education. Then, using the educational benefits of the G.I. Bill of Rights, he attended Mexico City College in 1956-1957, studying painting and writing, and later went to Pratt Institute. For several years, he worked as a graphic designer. Then in 1960, he went to work as a reporter for the New York Post. A long career in journalism followed. He has been a columnist for the New York Post, the New York Daily News, and New York Newsday, the Village Voice, New York magazine and Esquire. He has served as editor-in-chief of both the Post and the Daily News. As a journalist, he covered wars in Vietnam, Nicaragua, Lebanon and Northern Ireland, and has lived for extended periods in Mexico City, Dublin, Barcelona, San Juan and Rome. From his base in New York he also covered murders, fires, World Series, championship fights and the great domestic disturbances of the 1960s, and wrote extensively on art, jazz, immigration and politics. He witnessed the events of September 11, 2001 and its aftermath and wrote about them for the Daily News.

At the same time, Hamill wrote much fiction, including movie and TV scripts. He published nine novels and two collections of short stories. His 1997 novel, Snow in August, was on the New York Times bestseller list for four months. His memoir, A Drinking Life, was on the same New York Times list for 13 weeks. He has published two collections of his journalism (Irrational Ravings and Piecework), an extended essay on journalism called News Is a Verb, a book about the relationship of tools to art, a biographical essay called Why Sinatra Matters, dealing with the music of the late singer and the social forces that made his work unique. In 1999, Harry N. Abrams published his acclaimed book on the Mexican painter Diego Rivera. His novel, Forever, was published by Little, Brown in January 2003 and became a New York Times bestseller. His most recently published novel was North River (2007).

In 2004, he published Downtown: My Manhattan, a non-fiction account of his love affair with New York, and received much critical acclaim. Hamill was the father of two daughters, and has a grandson. He was married to the Japanese journalist, Fukiko Aoki, and they divided their time between New York City and Cuernavaca, Mexico. He was a Distinguished Writer in Residence at New York University.

Author photo by David Shankbone (September 2007) - permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation.

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 193 reviews
Profile Image for Bobby Underwood.
Author 143 books352 followers
July 31, 2017
While it’s true that Pete Hamill’s Downtown is a love letter to New York, and Manhattan specifically, and it starts off charmingly enough, it quickly becomes unfocused. Downtown meanders from one piece of history to the next on a whim, until your eyes glaze over because it’s so dull and entrenched in a pattern. In essence, the problem for this reader with the book is that it is like picking up a newspaper, and discovering it to be one long, rambling column on the same subject.

Downtown turned out to be an information dump that can overwhelm the average reader, but it’s not always the information we want to know. Do I need to know that Pete wouldn’t have voted for Alexander Hamilton if he’d lived back then, or that despite rumors of infidelity, Hamilton’s wife chose to be buried next to him? Pete, of course, makes no mention of Jackie Kennedy being buried next to liberal Irish Catholic JFK, whose rovings have been well-documented by now. Do I need to know that newspaperman James Bennett Jr. — whom Pete obviously admires as a newspaper owner — took a whiz in front of his bride-to-be and guests, possibly in a fireplace or on a piano, and was ostracized from New York society, fleeing to Europe, and that Hamill finds this “unintentionally funny” and, more importantly, worthy of including here?

But this is what you get here, and soon after the charm wears off, we forget that we're on a walking tour of this section of New York, and just become numbed by the repetitive pattern. It is very nostalgic at first, as Pete shows you how it used to be, and talks about the different mindset of New Yorkers, who live with constant change — what the city is all about. Terms like “velocity” and “alloy” are used ad nauseam. There comes to be a “sameness” as you turn the pages, flitting from one place to another, one story to another. It’s an endless column, from page one to the back pages with too much information thrown at the reader to remember much after the fourth or fifth or twentieth mention of something.

It’s also laced with Pete’s political views, even though it’s not about politics. Hamill does show some evenhandedness when dealing with the low ebb in New York, and it’s sort of rebirth, crediting both sides, especially Giuliana, for a lot of its resurgence, and the drop in crime. But then he turns around and credits the Million Man March — which was a million in the same way that this last presidential inaugural had the greatest attendance ever — led by Farrakhan, of all people, which was only about black men (not women), with changing the culture of the African American population of New York. That march was on Washington, not New York, and one has to surmise from all we know, that it was the focused crackdown on cleaning up the city by both Republican and Democrat Mayors, which led to the drop in black on black crime.

Pete can write a heck of a column, and I don’t always have to agree with him to enjoy his writing. But I wasn’t expecting his views to creep into this one so much. In fiction, it would have been fine. Unlike some — far too many, in my opinion — I don’t have to agree with every thought of the protagonist or others in narratives by Ross Macdonald, Robert B. Parker, John D. MacDonald, Chandler or Hammett, to enjoy a particular book and rate it high. It’s the ride that matters, and the story, the writing. But this wasn’t fiction, it was non-fiction, more a love letter to New York. Each time Hamill strayed from that — and he couldn’t seem to help himself from doing so — it pulled me out of the charm of the walking tour through what he calls, Downtown.

And then there were the information dumps. While engagingly told, the reader gets overwhelmed after a while, and then annoyed at the flitting from one piece of history to another. Unlike M.M. Kaye’s Sun in the Morning, which I read recently, which were scattered reminiscences of her childhood in India, there seemed to be no structure here, no cohesion or central theme. I came away thinking Pete’s probably a pretty good guy, and he obviously loves New York — which begs the question why he’s chosen to live so many other places, since New York is in his veins. Sadly, however, the lack of structure, the meandering, the lacing of Pete’s own views within this rambling love letter, prevented me from enjoying it more.

Perhaps nothing sums up this book better than 9-11. With all the minutia that the author spends time on, we get only two-and-a-half pages, I believe, on an event which changed both New York, and the world, forever. They are heartfelt, but Pete quickly jumps to something else. And that’s indicative of the entire book. I can imagine New Yorkers liking this much more than the average reader. For the information within, and the writing, I'm giving it three stars. For New York’s actual history, unbiased and structured to where the reader can perhaps get a sense of the city beyond velocity and alloy, some of the suggested reading Pete lists at the back of the book might be much more informative.
79 reviews12 followers
May 12, 2008
Lets just say that this book may have been single-handedly responsible with my fascination with the city of NY and at least partially, if not altogether, responsible for my moving here. I believe this memoir was written after Hamill got 'on the wagon'. I mention this because a lot of critics seem to believe his, and many other writers' best works, come during their hard-drinking days when all they seemed to have where a bottle and a notebook and pen in some dingy, dimly lit room in which to spill out their bleak outlooks and views on themselves and life in general. In any case this book is one of my favorites as Pete Hamill is one of my favorite writers; a New York one or otherwise. It's a great read from start to finish and i highly recommend it to anyone in love with Manhattan, New York, memoirs or good writing in general. And who cares if he was two-sheets to the wind shen he penned it. Its great writing~!!!
Profile Image for Laurie Thompson.
8 reviews2 followers
July 2, 2013
Anyone who loves New York City, really loves it, absolutely MUST read this book--part history, part memoir, and totally entertaining de facto guidebook. No, NYC isn't what it 'used to be,' but as Hamill fascinatingly illuminates, maybe it never was; it's always changing, and it's always been changing, and someone has always been lamenting the loss of something. All the history is there, if you know how to access it. What a history, and what a culture. I can never wait to get back there, and on my next visit, I'll start with a subway ride to Battery Park and start walking up Broadway, with this book in tow. And I'll reread it beforehand.
Profile Image for David.
252 reviews29 followers
February 10, 2016
I am consuming this lovely little book in perhaps the best way possible, listening to the author read it (into one ear) as I stroll casually around the neighborhoods of lower Manhattan. To walk the streets of this city guided by a well-informed, loquacious native while at the same time enjoying that blessed New York anonymity: just heavenly.
Profile Image for Elaine.
2,258 reviews2 followers
May 24, 2009
The reader might get the feel that Hamill was present for the Island's first immigrant arrivals and continues on to the present. It's like listening to a monologue he might be having as he walks the streets with a friend, pointing out various landmarks.

He picks out certain parts of Manhattan and tells not only of its history but about the people whose lives played important roles in the making and constant change in this district. He tells of many, many famous people including Jimi Hendrix and President Kennedy and spends much time talking about the theater. We learn about the Irish, Jewish, Italian, African, Dutch, and German people of the time. And then later, the Latinos.

He tells of crime, poverty, wealth, and entertainment, food and restaurants, theaters, and drinking establishments. Slavery and servants. We get the idea of the cost of rental property between then and the not-so-distant past. Manhattan is like clay, always being molded into something new. Nothing the same. The people. The places. The buildings. The land. Other structures and monuments. Build up. Tear down.

I'm enjoying some of the tidbits gleaned from this. Where Brooklyn, The Bronx, Harlem, and Wall Street got their names. My curiosity is piqued regarding certain points of interest not explained and online searches help with further learning. The name "Manhattan", for example. To understand what it means, I discovered online that it's derived from "Manna-hatta" = "many hills." The author talks quite a bit about Manhattan's first department store that Stewart opened but he doesn't tell the reader the name of the store. So off I go to do an online search. Where did some of these other places get their names? Look it up yourself because he's not going to tell you. The author does tell us about the building setback zoning law to allow some sun to reach the people on the streets. The reader is left to wonder "What is a setback law?"

Hamill uses words which are part of a particular country's vernacular. Perhaps he is using a cultural word or maybe it's an element of speech no longer used. In any event, if the reading audience isn't familiar with that particular word, it leaves them to the mercy of the internet yet again.

There is information told that certainly did not need to be history such as one young man's relieving himself in his fiance's family's fireplace. I'm sure he'd be chagrined to know that that made history. Who cares also, that a prince went to a brothel? Sure, brothels were part of NY's history but we certainly don't need to know who took advantage of them.

I find myself wanting the author to move on, get to the point or something. I'm feeling an overall dissatisfaction with the book.

Would I recommend it. Eh, that would be tough.
Profile Image for Jenny.p.
248 reviews5 followers
June 26, 2011
I am such a sucker for love letters to New York City. I think that in some way it makes me feel more like a New Yorker when I can read these books and decode them on a personal level. I was attracted to the book because I work in lower Manhattan on a project that will necessarily permanently change downtown. I appreciate opportunities to place this project in the historical conversation and much commented on changing nature of the city. I also appreciate being able to bust out with fun facts about the area while walking to coffee breaks at the Love Truck on Wall Street.

Hamil unapologetically indulges in his love and sense of nostalgia that seems to strike anyone who lives here long enough to stake a claim of some sort to the City in this autobiographical exploration of lower Manhattan history. It is both personal and historically solid, written by a journalist who knows how to put together a beautiful sentence as opposed to an academic who might not. I imagine the book may be criticized for not being as solid as an academic exploration may be, but whatever, it is highly readable.

Hamil takes a bit of liberty with the definition of "downtown" and while it was interesting to read about his memories/the history of Times Square, etc the book might have been stronger if he didn't wander so much and really stuck to lower Manhattan saving other parts of the city for another book.
Profile Image for Maureen Lang.
Author 38 books208 followers
November 10, 2010
I don't usually recommend the non-fiction research books that I use to collect background information on whatever work-in-progress I have going on, mainly because I usually don't read them cover-to-cover. I often search the Table of Contents and/or the Index to read the sections pertinent to my research needs. This book, however, was so engaging in its historical information regarding Manhattan that I couldn't put it down. Mr. Hamil has a very readable style, and his choice of historical detail was fascinating. Basically the book traces the history of Manhattan from the earliest settlements as it intersperses more modern details along the way. What I especially enjoyed about this was how the author's love for New York City came through. It certainly deepened my own fondness for such a wonderful city. If you're interested in 1800s New York, this is a must read.
Profile Image for Jill H..
1,638 reviews100 followers
January 11, 2012
If you are a fan of New York City, you will enjoy this love letter to the Manhattan downtown by the author/journalist who has lived there most of his life. He mixes his experiences with the history of places in the "downtown"....those that are extant and those which have been lost through progress. Its a fun read but somehow sad to realize the wonderful buildings that no longer grace the area.
8 reviews
November 3, 2020
Fun Read while learning Something !

Second time around for this one. Worth every minute probably better the third time. Hitch your wagon to this one.
Profile Image for Eve.
250 reviews35 followers
March 21, 2014
When I was a kid there was a headline in the newspaper that read "Ford to city - Drop Dead". This was in the bad old days of the early 1970's when NYC was on the ropes financially. Diminutive Abe Beame was Mayor and they were seeking federal funds to bail out the city. It was a rotten time financially for everyone with inflation rising and job rates down. But things got better and NYC survived - and came back stronger than ever!

An historical essay that reads like a love note to Pete Hamill's beloved Downtown Manhattan from the tip of Bowling Green to Mid-Town. New York is perpetually in a state of change; new faces, new languages, new ideas, brought to it by people from every corner of the world. Beginning with the first Dutch settlers down on Wall Street, followed by the English who combined to become the Knickerbockers, who Henry James wrote about in his famous novel "Washington Square". It is about the Africans brought as slaves and came as freemen, affecting the culture in ways we are still discovering today. In the mid-19th century fleeing unstable governments came the Germans, who brought with them food and drink, we now come to think of as "American as Apple Pie" like Hot Dogs, Hamburgers and Beer. The Irish flooded New York in the 1850's fleeing poverty and famine. They were poor and often victims of anti-catholic prejudice. In the Five Points neighborhood they found themselves locked in they were surrounded by criminal activity and corruption. By the 1880's the Jews of Russia began coming through Castle Garden and Ellis Island in response to pogroms that followed the assassination of Tsar Alexander II. They were poor, generally uneducated and their co-religionist, the German-Jews and Sephardic Jews who had preceded them decades earlier found them to be "not of their class". They made their lives in the tenements of the Lower East Side and worked in the factories and on the pushcarts. Southern Italians and Sicilian agricultural workers seeking to better wages to bring home to their poor families came and went on a round trip business for a time before settling down near Mulberry Street and bringing their families over, and building a church. Chinatown was until the 1960's made up of Chinese men only, because the Exclusion Act kept them from bringing their families. Latinos fleeing repressive political regimes and poverty also began finding their way to New York following World War II. They moved up-town. They brought with them music and dance that changed the sound of the city.

Pete Hamill describes New Yorkers, whoever they are (Irish writers, Chinese Stockbrokers, Jewish Teachers, Italian Chefs, African Congressman, etc.)as one big tribe and on 9-11 he saw that was truer than ever. We get cynical, we leave, we live in a constant state of nostalgia, but we always come back. Whenever I'm flying and I look down at the New York skyline there is only one thought in my mind "home".
Profile Image for Sarah.
22 reviews
October 30, 2024
LOVED that Hamill narrated - I was introduced to him via Ric Burns' documentary on NYC and have been enthralled with his way of speaking ever since. I can hear his voice when reading his writing but having him read this book was next level enjoyment.
Profile Image for Janet.
670 reviews19 followers
October 1, 2019
This book is part memoir and part history of downtown NYC from the 1700s to present day. It delves into architecture, city planning, culture and characters through the various incarnations of the city as only a consummate NYC journalist can.
Profile Image for Stadmecx.
10 reviews
March 20, 2017
The early histories of NYC are interesting but the chapters on the 70's through 90's (the time he covered the city with the Post) are incredibly compelling.
Profile Image for John.
27 reviews1 follower
May 30, 2013
Read this book twice.

So here we have Pete Hamill, a born-and-raised New Yorker, giving essentially a walking tour, sort of, of Manhattan starting at lower Broadway in Battery Park and moving north along Broadway to Times Square, pointing out interesting tidbits as we pass them. Fascinating to learn history this way—not encyclopedic, comprehensive, and dry—just what matters to this fellow sitting next to you at the bar, the book has that feel. [Incidentally, Hamill has an amazing life story, read about him on Wikipedia.] Hamill includes midtown in his "downtown" because it feels like downtown to him. He refers to the Hudson River as the North River, the South River being the Delaware, as a good NYC old-timer would. He explains why the layout of city streets is a random cow walk below 14th St but an orderly grid above. He doesn't dwell too much on old Dutch NYC, since most of it is gone now, or British NYC, for the same reason; but he does touch on colonial NYC somewhat and explains the origin of knickerbockers. Brilliant, unforgettable explanations of old money based on real estate versus new money based on industry, the migration of the upper class northward as development expanded, the evolution of tall buildings and the work advantages provided by elevators and electrical lighting, the tolerance fostered by the early Dutch as a necessity for making money, the pace of city life essentially stemming from "time is money", the reason behind the New Year's Eve traditions in Times Square, why certain streets have the names they have, the policies that led to a much safer city now than in the 1980s, when I first spent time in NYC and wandered into areas better avoided. After all this story-telling, I feel I have finally set some roots in the city, and could say I understand it somewhat. It will always be a big puzzle to me, and inspiring, but I now feel I have joined some of the pieces.

Hamill half-heartedly developed themes in the book: velocity, nostalgia, alloy. Unnecessary. Compensated by how well Hamill describing being in NYC as a feeling. There is a mostly silent communication among people in the street and on the subways that is hard to put into words, you have to be there and to feel it. It's real, and it's solid, but difficult to explain. You have to be tough to live in the City, or you won't survive it. But under all that toughness is easiness, tolerance, and a willingness to help. Hamill captures that feeling, what it is like to be on the street waiting for someone and watching people.

A perfect book for me since I visit NYC for housesitting many times a year and want to know more about it. Probably a good book for anyone who has spent time in NYC, more than a week, more than once, and has some sense of scope and bearings. Probably not such a good book for someone wanting to learn the history of the city academically, since early history isn't mentioned at all. Definitely not a tourist guide.
Profile Image for Rolanda.
19 reviews
January 30, 2015
I tend to shy away from history books simply because I don't typically learn from repeat of dates, times, people or locations. They seem to all run together creating a massive mess of nothingness in my brain. It certainly was not the case with Downtown My Manhattan . Pete Hamill brought New York City to life in his writing of this book. A true love of the city that mirrors my own. A thousand pictures painted by the way he describes the creation of New York City, first as New Amsterdam and then later changed to it's current majestic name. Hamill takes you through historical change after historical change that has shaped the greatest city on earth. His pure love of New York is so clear and magical just as New York is. I have been to New York several times (thanks to my Bestie Amanda) and while those visits were filled with wonderment of the Chrysler building, Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty, Grand Central Station, Battery Park and many more places that have been engraved in my memory, while reading this book I realized that even though I have seen a lot, I have really only seen a little. Perhaps just the tip of the iceberg. I have always known that New York is rich with history but reading it has made me realize that I have missed some of the hidden beauty of New York that has shaped her. The streets we walked so many times mean so much more now that I know who has walked them before me. I would recommend this book to those who love New York, not just for shopping or the theater, but for all that is unseen. That is simply part of her passed but has in every way shaped her future and her present. A great read indeed. If for no other reason but to know how New York came to be the city it is today.
Profile Image for Allan.
478 reviews80 followers
November 30, 2013
I'm a big fan of NYC books, so am surprised I missed this one, given Amazon recommendations etc. I'm glad I came across it eventually, though!

Hamill, born in 1935, grew up in Brooklyn, both his parents having come originally from Belfast, but the book is about Downtown Manhattan-his downtown anyway, as his definition veers slightly from the accepted city zoning. However, having 'paid rent' for most of his adult life in various 'downtown' locations, Hamill is well qualified to talk of life on the island.

Each chapter of the book itself focuses on a particular street or area of 'Oz', and in general linear fashion, Hamill charts Downtown history, starting with the settlement of Manhattan by the Dutch, and ending up with the post Disneyfied Times Square of the 21st century.

My favourite sections of the book are Hamill's own experiences of the city, but his historical information, particularly that of the recent past, is also very interesting. I was particularly entertained to see a reference to the Barnes and Noble flagship store in Union Square, the opening of which apparently contributed to the reinvigoration of the area. I have already ordered another book that I hadn't heard of, on Times Square, from the bibliography at the end of the book, and will doubt refer back to it again when requiring another fix of NYC interest reading!

A really good read for those interested in all things NYC. I look forward now to reading Hamill's drinking days memoir, which is already sitting on my TBR shelf!
Profile Image for Kathleen Suess.
Author 1 book9 followers
March 2, 2022
Admittedly, I am a Pete Hamill fan from way back. I have read some of his books more than once, "Forever" being on my top favorites list of all time. I was captured from page one of "Downtown."
Hamill has a warm and easy style of writing that exemplifies simplicity, while simultaneously creating complex sentences filled with nuance and observation.
Manhattan holds a piece of me, both my mother and father hailing from Manhattan, Mott Street being home to the Irish early in the 20th century.
But it's not all about sentiment. The back history of Washington Square, Union Square, Times Square, etc., which I knew on some level, is somehow woven together in a grand tapestry in "Downtown."
The impulse to walk the streets and see it all for myself, the grand old buildings, the small alleys, the waterfront, once again, and in detail, becomes an imperative.
Yes, times have changed, they are always changing, but the echoes of footsteps remain.

Profile Image for Garrett Cash.
812 reviews1 follower
March 31, 2014
Apparently Pete Hamill was using a "fill in the blank" formula for this book over and over again. I think it looked something like this.

As I was taking my weekly walk through [insert street here] I saw the [insert building here] which reminded me of [insert famous person here]. [Insert long, rambling history of building and people which leaves much to be desired and requires one to look up the missed information on the internet]. Across the street is where [insert another place] was, but its beauty was destroyed long ago in New York's ever changing flow. Sometimes when I walk past it I try to imagine the [Insert people who hung out at said place long ago] but I can't [Insert as many maudlin remarks as possible, and then repeat].
Profile Image for Jonathan Tennis.
666 reviews14 followers
August 4, 2018
I read Hamill’s memoir about his drinking days and thought it was a little slow for my taste. I would not have picked up another book by him except I love a good NY story. And this one does not disappoint. A New Yorker telling the tale of New York as only a New Yorker can – quick paced and quick witted, the history of the places he passes, works, eats on a normal daily, weekly, monthly basis are amazing. Loved this book. Could not put it down. Highly recommend.
Profile Image for Cassandra.
24 reviews5 followers
January 14, 2009
I liked this book a lot because it goes through - street by street - the evolution of NYC. I read this book, and I am taking it with me during our next trip so that I can take it to neighborhood by borough :) to really walk through the progression. I LOVED the story of the first sky scraper in NYC. GREAT. I wish I would have known the builders - they sound fun!
243 reviews
May 19, 2010
The book was poorly organized, so hard to follow. What I will remember is how several horrible areas of New York were cleaned-up and completely transformed from being dangerous places full of violence, gangs, and drugs to being parks, etc. It really gives you hope in these crazy times!
Profile Image for Jim.
3,109 reviews76 followers
August 19, 2011
An interesting mix of memoir, history, and critique about Manhattan, an area I know little of. Hamill is a good writer, though a bit repetitive (he should have just called the book "New York alloy"). Lots of insights, though the main theme is change.
Profile Image for Emma.
33 reviews1 follower
February 4, 2016
Loved this book and wished I had read it before I visited NYC. To think I visited the silly bull in Wall Street and was not even aware of the beautiful Cunard building in the background. I'm now hunting down his other books and determined to get back to New York for a proper visit.
807 reviews9 followers
May 16, 2010
Sadly, works neither as a history nor as a memoir. It's not enough of either. I like the writing style, but found myself skimming.
Profile Image for Jen.
125 reviews2 followers
January 9, 2015
Pete Hamill is an amazing writer, but this one is meant for someone that lives and can appreciate NYC.
Profile Image for Tupelodan.
201 reviews4 followers
December 31, 2016
Great work. Read this before your next trip to NYC. It'll change your perspective.
Profile Image for Dave Courtney.
903 reviews33 followers
June 15, 2014
Pete Hamill is a journalist and a writer. Three things are certain about his own personal history. His memoir informs us of his long standing journey as a drinker, something that speaks in to the sort of reflective nature of "Downtown's" approach to historical and experiential narrative. Secondly, most of his work is in the area of fiction, affording him a certain penchant for storytelling that also impacts his "downtown", not to mention his approach to journalism in general. Third, Pete Hamill loves his city. If "Downtown" is anything after all, it is a love story to New York City. The challenge to any reader is to walk away from this work without gaining at least a bit of this appreciation for the city as well.

The subtitle for "Downtown" is "My Manhattan". As it stands, Hamill is essentially engaging a type of literary walking tour beginning from the banks of the Hudson on the Battery and ending with what he refers to as the "Disneyfication" of a resurged and reinvented Times Square. He fully admits that his downtown takes obvious liberties with the classical definitions of uptown, downtown and midtown areas. His desire is to speak of what he knows, and what he knows best is the place where he has personally lived and experienced as a resident and worker. At the same time his Manhattan is always aware of keeping both eyes open to the world around him, giving us vivid pictures of Harlem and Brooklyn and the village. Where Hamill is at his most endearing is when he is bridging his personal experience with the bits of history that surround not just the grander story of the area itself, but the more intimate pictures of buildings and persons whom played an important part in allowing the grander story take shape. The truth about his Manhattan is that as it emerged from the water that symbolizes its source and life, the movement of its development became an unstoppable force that would weave in and out of any sense of control over the tensions that would divide the personal and cultural identity with the impersonal nature of progress. While other cities would look to form their own identities throughout the nation, the truth is that time after time their discoveries and ideas and inventions would ultimately become absorbed back in to the fabric of this city that would set the tone for how this progress should take shape.

Much of the narrative (as it plays out as a personal/historical narrative) consists of a sort of nostalgia that Hamill notes in his first chapter. It's a weird sort of nostalgia that is forced to contend with a city that is always changing and never staying the same. Even in times where it would appear areas of the city, and perhaps the city itself, could not bounce back from a particular "down" moment, it manages to find a way to swing back upwards towards reform, reinvention and renewed vision. This often happened on the backs of some smart and ambitious mayors. He distinguishes between two closely related terms, nostalgia and sentimentality, suggesting that in New York the true form of nostalgia expects one to live with the ongoing expectation and realization of a never ending sense of loss. It is a perpetuating state of mind driven by the truth that what is there now is likely to be gone tomorrow. And yet the past, present and future have a way of fusing in to an odd sense of unity in this concrete jungle. It is not a life that everyone would choose, but those who live it eventually learn to become enchanted by the experience.

Of course the story of New York is a story of its people, and much of Hamill's love for his city revolves around what he refers to as a particular sense of tolerance and diversity. As he walks from the banks of the battery up towards Times Square, he brings us through the story of a city built through immigration, the stories of the Dutch, the English, the Germans, the Italians and the Irish, the Jewiish and the Chinese and Africans. The neighborhoods of New York would shift and change and establish themselves on the strength and stories of these people, each in their own way looking to give a new dream for their future families. In some cases, such as with the Germans, the mark would be left on the street corners with what become the noted foods of the people. In other cases certain groups, such as the Italian community, would find themselves boxed in and squeezed out by a new surge of immigration looking for a similar opportunity (in their case it was the fast developing Chinatown). In all cases these groups would become the ones that would need to learn to live and survive together. There is a certain unifying sense in moving from the Old World to the New, something that lends itself to the intriguing New York landscape as altogether familiar and unfamiliar at the same time. European influence fused with a New World mentality. As Hamill points out, nostalgia is often only recognized through some semblance of a surviving heritage, and in the case of cities buildings often tell the stories of the people in ways that allow memories to carry on. Hamill reflects in one chapter on the tragedy of the Penn Station demolition, but at once uses it as a stepping stone to celebrated the moment when New York ultimately realized how to protect what it has. For him the striking presence of Trinity Church remains as one of his favorite iconic symbols.

I very much enjoyed some of the side roads Hamill would follow to inform us of some the lesser known history of the city, such as the development of the first department store and the creation of "the grid". I found it incredibly interesting to read of the birth of different forms of journalism, certainly as he explains how news worthy stories shifted from minimalist and safe to exploitive and explicit, from a world that viewed crime from a distance to seeing the crime story as a means for "selling" the news. As he follow broadway we begin to see the city neighborhoods merging. The Village (Greenwich), once a secluded town away from the antics of the rivers edge, would find itself absorbed along with dozens of other independent neighborhoods that we now recognize as part of one big grid. And as the city grew, so would the problems. Hamill tells the stories of how the streets would converge on the "squares", with each square sharing its own particular story (such as the Barnes and Nobles in Union Square. And at every meeting place the struggle to reconcile the concrete jungle with some sense of sun, air, and green would demand a creative response. Of course this all culminates in the great marvel that is Central Park. And all through this development, Broadway itself would remain a sort of enigma, a street that would demand its own path in the face of the surrounding grid.

I also very much enjoyed the story of Times Square, an area that almost met its demise as recently as the 90's. The area would become known for the iconic tower that reflected the brave move of the New York Times, and would forever be recognized as a meeting place for celebration following the end of the war. Hearing him tell the story of the New Years tradition brings new light to what seems to only add to the Disneyfication of the area.

Hamill offers one mans perspective, but more than that it is a sincere heartfelt ode to what is clearly an important piece of his own story. It is interesting to hear him reflect with honesty on the tormented relationship that New Yorkers (those who live there) express time and time again. He cites Times Square as an example. In the 90's people decried the defacing of such an important square. Now they complain about the "disneyfication". Of course much of these feelings follows the shifting problem of crime, prostitution and drugs. As one area would be revitalized, another area would demand attention. And yet this is a city that continues to believe that no area should ever be left for dead. It has a tendency to face its problems head on, and to never fear the impact that a bit of vision, partnership, and real estate can have on enforcing change. And it is interesting to note that as the city continues forward, history seems to be taking shape in communities that remember where they came from, what their neighborhoods once were, a symbol that seems to be proving to be the most effective tool in allowing culture and service to overcome poverty and hardship. From afar it is easy to see these symbols rising high in the sky in the form of skyscrapers and architectural marvels. From up close it represents itself in building built much closer to the people themselves. Both continue to survive together in a city that lays claim to being the capital of the world.
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July 19, 2018
Hamill manages to at once both educate us and reaffirm that we, the average person, in fact know very little about the far-reaching, ever-changing, and important history of Manhattan. Even though the book is lengthy, he frames the city quite succinctly and eloquently through his own experiences as a Downtown New Yorker.

For the tourist or casual visitor, it's hard to imagine New York as anything but how it is experienced in that moment for them. But the streets are old, and the city has been continuously shaped and molded by people from all over the world and from all walks of life. Starting from the Battery and moving north, Hamill leads us on a journey - jumping forwards and backwards in time - that attempts to distill the intense spread of culture and community over the centuries into sentences bursting with imagery and tidbits of information.

Guaranteed there will be New Yorkers who, at various points in the book will say, "I didn't know that!" about things relating to the early settlers in Manhattan, or of the Village, or the countless plaques, monuments, and street names - and the historical importance behind them to not just New York, but to the people of New York. It leaves me nostalgic for a city I have never really lived in, bringing closer to my fingertips an glimmer of understanding of the unique baggage, attitudes and beliefs that come with being a New Yorker.

For anyone interested remotely in an account of New York written in flowing prose, told in a first person view, and involving an assessment in urban studies, history, or culture (but yet doesn't seem academic or boring at all) - I would recommend "Downtown" in a heartbeat.
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