The French Menu Cookbook: The Food and Wine of France--Season by Delicious Season--in Beautifully Composed Menus for American Dining and Entertaining by an American Living in Paris...
Now in paperback, this landmark, debut cookbook from Richard Olney is brimming with over 150 authentic recipes that capture the flavors and spirit of the French countryside.
Originally published in 1970, The French Menu Cookbook is one of the most important culinary works of the twentieth century. It has served as a foundational resource and beacon to cooks worldwide—including visionaries like Alice Waters—who redefined American cuisine. Well ahead of his time, Olney champions a seasonal approach to cooking and provides thoughtful, intriguing wine pairings. This revolutionary text offers masterfully arranged menus for every occasion, from casual dinners for two to decadent soirees. In paperback for the first time, this celebrated kitchen classic is a must-have for adventurous home cooks, chefs, gourmets, and Francophiles alike.
Richard Olney was an American painter, cook, food writer, editor, and memoirist, best known for known for his books of French country cooking.
Olney lived in a house above the village of Solliès-Toucas in Provence, France, for most of his adult life, where he wrote many classic and influential cookbooks of French country cooking. He had first moved to France in 1951, to Paris, where he was close friends with (and painted many of) the American and English bohemian expatriate set, including James Baldwin, filmmaker Kenneth Anger, painter John Craxton, poet John Ashbery, and composer Ned Rorem.
A set of basic French recipes. One nice feature: menus are featured for all four seasons of the year, and a series of recipes are presented for each meal menu. To illustrate: One winter menu features an informal dinner--Gratin of stuffed crepes, Stuffed calves' ears with Béarnaise sauce, Molded tapioca pudding with apricot sauce.
The book begins by outlining the approach taken throughout. Then, introductory discussions of wine, reds versus whites versus roses; wine cellars; temperature. Then, a discussion ensues of the variety of wines by region in France. Nice discussions of Beaujolais and Bordeaux. Next, what should go into a kitchen (what types of knives, for instance). Then, on to the menus and recipes.
One thing I enjoy when seeing a new cookbook is to check out any recipes for a dish that I have already cooked. And, here, I enjoyed comparing how my basic Beef burgundy (Boeuf a la bourguignon) recipe compares with the one in this book. Some recipes contain carrots and others don't. This one uses carrots, which is my preference. This recipe calls for cognac, not something that routinely goes into a recipe. Another recipe where I enjoyed comparing what the author, Richard Olney, does with what I do--Coq au vin.
I have always wanted to try making Quenelle. I once had a delicious Quenelle in Dole (France) and have never gotten around to trying to make this (also, I'm not sure my family would be excited by it!). I'll pass on this recipe, since it is much more difficult to make than others that I have seen. But just looking at the recipe has increased my enthusiasm to make some Quenelle!
So, all in all, a nice cookbook, originally published in 1970.
Wonderful book - although some of the advise in impractical. Who keeps a wooden cask in the kitchen to pour the last glass or two of premier cru claret into to make very superior vinegar? In fact, who leaves the last class of premier cru claret undrunk?
I don't usually count the cookbooks I read on here but this one was more like food writing than an actual recipe book (even though there are many recipes in here, most of them would be impossible to attempt). A beautiful evocative glimpse into the past, Olney makes his kitchen come alive and I just wish I could jump in a time machine and learn a lesson or two from him. The wine section is brilliant as well. Definitely a book for those interested in french cuisine and food culture.
Brilliant! Beyond the recipes, Olney wrote a beautiful ode to French wine and food. It's not just about how to make it, but how to enjoy it, how to build a menu, and what it means to enjoy life with a sense of style. This is a classic, and I'll take it over Toklas or Child any day of the week.