Amarillo by Morning
George Strait can sing a song about Amarillo and make the town seem wonderful, and Gail Caldwell, who grew up there, can do the same. It made me wish that we had taken a detour off I-44 to see it when we were driving by a few years ago> Still, I knew better. It could not have looked much different from what we were looking at: a desert all the way through the Texas panhandle. Like Gail said, the only thing blocking the sky were the grain elevators. Of course, when we drove into Groom, Texas, on I-44, to let our dog out, we saw a 100-foot statue of Jesus that also blocked the sky. I imagine that everyone that stepped out on their front porch saw it. There are no atheists in Groom.
Once in the life of America, the panhandle was overrun with buffalo grasses, until the new Americans came and dug it all up, leaving the land barren, especially in the panhandle. Mesquite grows there, we are told by Gail. Gotta love that mesquite as it makes for good barbeques. Flavors the meat.
This was Gail Caldwell’s autobiography. She was a book critic for the Boston Globe for 20 years and won the Pulitzer Prize. I picked it up because I liked its title, and now I can say this, I liked her story.
The first few chapters take in her youth, and how she went to the library often, and at age 11 she tried to check out, “The Origin of the Species,” and the librarian told her mom what she was trying to do. Her mom said, “Let her have it.” Not that she understood it, but Gail was reading books that I had never thought to read at that age or at any age. Still, I wrote down a few titles, just not Darwin’s.
When she grew up, she went to college and skipped out of a course to make her way to Berkeley, CA where she hung out on Telegraph Avenue, as I once had, and she even saw a communist Vietnamese flag on a house. We had one on our rooming house in Berkeley, but it flew high the day the Vietnam war had ended. The 60s. Hippies. She even took part in demonstrations. The only one that I had ever been in was quite by accident, when my ex was taking me by car to a doctor’s office that was located on Telegraph Avenue, and we found ourselves in the middle of one. When I saw the hippies, not really knowing what they were, I wanted to join them, and a few years later, I moved alone to Berkeley, to that rooming house.
Next, Gail went to Mexico with three friends. She lived the 60s almost as I had, but I found this life in ’69. She found it earlier. Mexico, for me, began in ’85. She mentioned camping out on a beach there, and a man opened her tent the next morning, and she kept saying “Vamonos,” which meant, “Let’s go,” and not “Get going.” He got the message but only because of her anger and hand gestures. He left. I mixed up the word “shit” for “afraid” in my college Spanish class and got a big laugh when I had said, “I am shit.” That was less dangerous for me than what she had said.
The last few chapters were spent remembering her aunt and her father. They really influenced her life, and for a woman that grew up in the sticks, well, without sticks, her life was a pretty good one.
Amarillo by Morning by George Strait
Amarillo by morning, up from San Antone
Everything that I've got, is just what I've got on
When that sun is high in that Texas sky
I'll be bucking at the county fair
Amarillo by morning, Amarillo I'll be there
They took my saddle in Houston, broke my leg in Santa Fe
Lost my wife and a girlfriend somewhere along the way
Well I'll be looking for eight when they pull that gate
And I hope that judge ain't blind
Amarillo by morning, Amarillo's on my mind
Amarillo by morning, up from