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624 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 1977
Dr A. Hunter, writing in a book called Receipts in Modern Cookery; with a Medical Commentary, first published in 1805, provided both a recipe, and in case it were needed yet more evidence of the English addiction to toast: 'Lovers of toast and butter will be much pleased with this kind of bread. The potato is not here added with a view to economy, but to increase the lightness of the bread, in which state it will imbibe the butter with more freedom . . .' Well, there you have one way of increasing the consumption of butter. Today's dieticians would probably be aghast...
[...]
To cook potatoes to add to bread dough, I find the best way is to boil them in their skins, watch them carefully and, immediately they are cooked but before they start to disintegrate, pour off the water, cover the potatoes with a clean thick cloth, put the lid on the saucepan and leave them for a few minutes.
[...]
In her English Bread Book (1857), so often quoted in these pages, Eliza Acton gives the proportions of potatoes to flour for a potato loaf as 7lb, weighed after\i> cooking and peeling, to a gallon of meal or flour. [...] Miss Acton, like Dr Hunter, considers the bread excellently flavoured and light, 'one of the best varieties of mixed or cheap bread when it is made with care'. Its moisture-retaining properties, Miss Acton found, were second only to those of rice bread. But. . . made with care. Her potatoes are dry and warm when added to the flour, she specifies more salt than usual for ordinary bread and a lower temperature for baking. And should the potatoes be watery, you are to wring them dry in a cloth. There are times when I feel that Miss Acton is too good to be true. An unworthy thought, for so obviously, so transparently, she was utterly thorough, totally sincere in her anxiety to instruct, to pass on the knowledge she herself had acquired through such painstaking experiment. Her patience in recording every detail was phenomenal, and although our ovens and our domestic conditions are so far removed from those of the 1850s, Miss Acton's notes are still extremely instructive.
5. One point not mentioned by Miss Acton is that the mashed potatoes are particularly propitious to yeast growth. For this reason they were often used as the basis of a preliminary leaven which encouraged fermentation. The bakers' name for the potatoes they added to bread dough was 'fruit'. [Potato bread, p288-290]