The Reaktion series of book about animals and our world is just great. You get the whole animal - as a creature, in world mythology, art and, in the case of the pig, on our plates.
Brett Mizelle is fascinated by how we and pigs have interacted in history. Indeed, he thinks that we, pigs and dogs all evolved into the species we now are, together. Once our ancestors settled in particular places each community would have had a midden. This rubbish tip was a magnet for wild boar who helped themselves to the rich pickings and, before long, they made these places their homes as well.
There is a treasure trove of pig information in this book. Aristotle thought that pigs were the animals closest to humans. Pigs were associated with Demeter, the Greek goddess of agriculture and Aeneas, the legendary founder of Rome, knew he had arrived at the right spot when he saw a sow rootling at the base of an oak tree.
Like us or not, pigs were the first creatures to be industrially slaughtered and packaged. In the early twentieth century the burgeoning population in the US got their meat from CAFOS - Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations. Or 'disassembly lines' as they were also known. The food writer Michael Pollan is quoted as saying that contemporary pig production and slaughter ‘offers a nightmarish glimpse of what capitalism can look like in the absence of moral or regulatory constraint'.
Here are some of the ways that pigs are like us. They have an episodic memory. Not just remembering what happened but in what order. In other words, the storyline of events. Contact with and attention from other animals (including us) has a de-stressing effect on pigs. Their incarceration and selective breeding for rapid weight gain makes them liable to panic.
Some have made a break for freedom, however. There are an estimated 1.5 million wild hogs Texas alone and escaped wildboar/pig cross animals are making themselves at home in the Forest of Dean in the west of England. Interestingly, in a just a few generations, the escaped domestic pigs revert to wildness. They get faster, hairier and their tusks are bigger.
The author (quoting Claude Levi-Strauss) says that pigs are 'good to think with'. He sees the vilification of the pig as a guilt reaction on the part of humans who have treated pigs so badly over the millennia. Not all humans, though. On the Pacific island republic of Vanatu pigs are eaten but also revered. These islanders are regarded as being among the happiest communities on the planet.