AN AMERICAN JOURNALIST SPENDS A YEAR IN MODERN AFRICA, AND RECORDS HIS REACTIONS
Journalist and author Eddy Harris wrote in the first chapter of this 1992 book, “Because my skin is black you will say I traveled Africa to find the roots of my race. I did not----unless that race is the human race, for except for the color of my skin, I am not African. If I didn’t know it then, I know it now. I am a product of the culture that raised me. And yet Africa was suddenly like a magnet drawing me close, important in ways that I cannot explain… It was time I went… In the mind and perhaps dreams of every person with black skin, the specter of Africa looms like the shadow of a genie… a place of magic and wonder. Africa as motherland. Africa as a source of black pride, a place of black dignity… Although I am not African, there is a line that connects that place with this one… And I longed to follow that line. But what if those old promises of Africa were only lies? What if I hated the place? Only in traveling could I discover the truth.”
He recounts ,”Suddenly I was part of a group of German and American tourists with whom I had much in common. I found myself realizing that something as subtle as culture could mean infinitely more than something as overt and obvious as the color of my skin.” (Pg. 69)
A member of his tour group named Mat told him, “There’s no law that says you should blindly love the place where your ancestors came from. And there’s no law that says what black men do to one another is any better than what white men do to black men… Mankind is greedy and selfish and tribal. Men are always looking for ways to distinguish between themselves and others. We define others so that we can define ourselves. And mark my words: when apartheid finally fails, the tribes in South Africa will start fighting among themselves… It’s what happens when empires disintegrate and the hand that holds things together is taken away.” (Pg. 79)
He realizes, “The face of Africa has Arab eyes. The great Arab empires that reached deep into the body of black Africa left imprints of Arab customs and ways of thinking. But the skin of Africa is brown, rich and dark. Now I was in the body of Africa and looking for heart and soul… Somewhere between the blackness of my skin and the whiteness of my culture I am trapped. I am a victim of cultural assimilation, and good fortune… My white friends, so they say, never think of me as being black… They mean it as a compliment, I know, but what they are saying is that if I changed the color of my skin I could be one of them. But I can’t change the color of my skin.” (Pg. 106-107)
He points out, “The Senegalese national anthem sings of brotherhood… But there is not unity in Africa. Forty thousand blacks… were forced out of Mauritania. Hundreds and hundreds were killed. Their throats were slit and their heads cut off. Women were disemboweled. Men were castrated.” (Pg. 116) Later, he adds, “In Africa it is called ‘tribalism.’ Racism doesn’t rest on white shoulders alone. It exists wherever some men have what other men want---power, money, jobs, women, food. As long as there is a way for them to keep things for themselves and for others like them. We hunger to belong and we search for ways to identify the ones who are like us and the ones who are not. Race, color, family, tribe, and religion…. We always find a way.” (Pg. 127)
He observes, “I ask myself, is it the African character or the colonial presence that defines the way Africa is? The colonials clearly have not left, and Africa asserts its own authority any way it can. And Africans readily submit to authority. They have no tradition of democracy and self-assertion, but of a central authority figure who is leader and father at the same time… The colonials had the power. Now the demagogues and despots hold the power. The new colonials are black, and somehow it seems atrocity and indignity at the hands of black men is seen as more acceptable than the same atrocity and indignity at the hands of white men. Most governments in Africa are military committees, national councils, one-party states… But what do human rights mean to governments determined to cling to power? What do human rights mean to people merely trying to cling to another day, find enough to eat, to survive and live to the ripe old age of forty-seven?” (Pg. 174-175)
He states, “The slavery hasn’t ended. Not when you think about the … self-proclaimed presidents for life… What they have done and continue to do carries on a practical joke.. started by the colonial Europeans that perpetuates black self-disdain and self-hatred. It is subconscious and subtle. But it is there. Anything white has got to be better. How could it be otherwise when to look out at the world is to see prosperity and progress, to look in at the black world is to see crooks and corruption and starvation, nothing working the way it should, no roads, no work, nothing but misery?” (Pg. 211)
A soldier told him, “This is what we have become. We learned this from the Europeans, that we are inferior people, sometimes even less than people We hate the way we look and we hate the way we act. And we try so desperately to be like them, to have what they have… We should be prouder of ourselves… Prouder of who we are and what we come from. But our heritage was stolen from us by the Europeans and now we are left without a history, except their history. We have forgotten who we are. And we have forgotten how to be human… There were great empires in Africa…. Our civilizations were vast and they were magnificent and they came to an end at the hands of other Africans. It is what we do to ourselves that gives me this crisis of the heart… We know no other way. We had no written languages. Our history and our skills were passed from one generation to the next… When the Europeans came, they destroyed all that… We have formed new traditions of our own but they are the ugly mixed-breed children of an unnatural copulation. We try our hands at democracy but we aren’t ready for it. Some captain always stages a coup.” (Pg. 268)
He summarizes, “The politics of Africa are a mire of vexation… Africa is trying to find its way and desperately needs to, but as long as European powers continue to intervene, as long as colonialism continues, Africa never will.” (Pg. 293-294)
He concludes, “My skin is black. My culture is not. After almost a year in Africa, I have no answers. Only this one question remains: WHO AM I? I have more in common, it sometimes seems, with the Dutch Afrikaner, the Boer… I could no more return to Africa to live than I could live on the moon.” (Pg. 311)
He ends, “It is a beautiful country. It’s easy to see why the white South Africans want to keep it for themselves. It is man’s nature. But it could be such a beautiful world, if we could defy the darker sides of our nature.” (Pg. 314)
This is a fascinating, insightful, and honest book, that will be “must reading” for anyone contemplating “going back to the Motherland.”