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First published January 1, 2004
On the way down from Koutloumousiou to the south there is a high arch over a rocky torrent, quiet in the autumn. Stone-covered runnels cross the path, the hidden water whispering and splashing like mice. Rags of clouds appeared up on the ridge, and washed over it. Bright sun on the slope to the south. Where the path followed the side of the valley, in sheltered woods, I came upon a monk down on all fours, gardening, clearing the weeds from the wall below a long bed of flowers that had been tended with love. His hat was off and it was clear he had been absorbed in his work since first light, and that his heart was in it. Wild dianthus were blooming along the path a few feet from the nodding yellow heads of campanulas. The soil was black and crumbly, and his hands and knees and cassock were covered with it. Just beyond him was a chapel newly painted reddish-brown and white, with painted tin cans full of basil plants around the door, and rosemary in bloom at the eastern end.[73]