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Ferran: The Inside Story of El Bulli and The Man Who Reinvented Food
The first-ever biography of Ferran Adrià, the chef behind Spain's renowned El Bulli restaurant, by one of the world's foremost food authorities.
In his lively close-up portrait of Adrià, award-winning food writer Colman Andrews traces this groundbreaking chef's rise from resort-hotel dishwasher to culinary deity, and the evolution of El Bulli from a German-owned beach bar into the establishment voted annually by an international jury to be "the world's best restaurant."
In his lively close-up portrait of Adrià, award-winning food writer Colman Andrews traces this groundbreaking chef's rise from resort-hotel dishwasher to culinary deity, and the evolution of El Bulli from a German-owned beach bar into the establishment voted annually by an international jury to be "the world's best restaurant."
321 pages, Paperback
First published October 7, 2010
40 people are currently reading
293 people want to read
About the author
Colman Andrews
30 books9 followersCo-founder and former editor of Saveur magazine and the author of Catalan Cuisine, Flavors of the Riviera, and Everything on the Table and co-author and co-editor of three Saveur cookbooks. Now a resident of New York City and Connecticut, a native of Los Angeles and a frequent contributor to the LA Times and Los Angeles Magazine. He won six James Beard Awards for his writing on food and wine, and was one of the first 50 people named to Who's Who of Food and Beverage in America.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 38 reviews
October 3, 2019
I really enjoyed this book and learning about the creative process of the worlds greatest chef!
April 18, 2011
This book gave me much needed perspective on El Bulli and humbled my foodie aspirations.
I first learned of the restaurant a couple of years ago. My husband’s boss is an honest-to-goodness gourmand. He heard we were going to Barcelona for our honeymoon and casually mentioned El Bulli. When Leo remembered this jewel of information a few days into the trip, I sent him down to the hotel reception thinking we’d get directions and walk there that night in our flip-flops. The concierge let down Leo gently. “Oh, señor, the restaurant is actually outside the city. I hear it is also quite expensive and difficult to get into.” Leo shrugged his shoulders and took me out to eat more paella instead.
Only now do I realize the full extent of the concierge’s tact. El Bulli is considered one of the world’s best restaurants. It is located on a secluded cove reached by a dangerous road. The cost for one person starts at $300. Just 0.004% of those interested get a table each year. Chef Ferran Adrià is a celebrity in the world of haute cuisine. And the food itself…
Say you really like fettuccine alfredo. You think to yourself, “When I go to El Bulli, I will order this and it will be most delicious fettuccine alfredo of my life!” Sure, except Ferran is unlikely to ever serve something that conventional. If it even crossed his mind, he would likely deconstruct the dish, turn part of it into foam, throw in some seaweed, and enjoy your expression as you stare at your plate in dismay or awe.
In all seriousness, El Bulli threw out the à la carte menu in favor of a fixed menu. It is a legendary, gastronomic experience of 30 to 35 small plates. And as Anthony Bourdain said, “You don’t go to El Bulli because you want chicken that night”. The food is, for lack of a better word, experimental. Most of it makes my mouth water: mandarin flower sorbet and parmesan dumplings with tallarines. Some of the dishes mean nothing to me: gominola of shiso. A few sound less than desirable, such as this one dish which was described as “vomitous”: sea anemone, raw rabbit brains, oysters and calamondin in a lukewarm dill broth.
All that being said, I still want to go. Will I ever get the chance? Probably not. This book is the next best thing.
Despite the fact that the author is a fancy food critic and the subject is elite, the book is not snobby. Andrews even points you to youtube to watch related comedy skits. There were many names and terms I didn’t recognize: chefs, cooking techniques, ingredients, restaurants, classic dishes. Even so, I was never discouraged and would say the book is accessible.
The book is well written. Andrews clearly did his research and is a well-connected insider. He uses quotes often, yet appropriately. Most important to me, he includes down-to earth stories and his cheeky sense of humor. I should mention that Andrews is pro-Ferran. But he is honest when he doesn’t like certain dishes. And he devotes a chapter to Ferran’s opponents, as well as intersperses their points of criticism throughout the entire book.
Although his face graces the cover and his name steals the title, the book is not solely a biography of Ferran. And the portions specific to Ferran’s life are mainly professional. You’ll meet his family and wife. Yet, refreshingly, there is no litany of past girlfriends or any dirty secrets. You will, however, get a full history of the restaurant itself, including how the property originally failed as a mini-golf course and the early party-hardy atmosphere. You’ll learn about the various personalities that have worked there. Andrews will take you back (briefly, thank goodness) to mankind’s first attempts to cook food. He explains the cooking techniques Ferran pioneered, the confusion regarding molecular gastronomy, and how food world has evolved. Andrews showcases Ferran’s outreach activities, such as collaborating with scientists at Harvard and developing easily chewed and appealing food for the elderly through his foundation. In sum, it is a very well-rounded book.
I knocked off one star, because I often found myself counting the pages until the end. This speaks more to my preference for fiction than the quality of the book.
If this book doesn’t sate your hunger, NPR recommends a more recent book about El Bulli, The Sorcerer's Apprentices which focuses on the young chefs that volunteer at the restaurant nowadays. Andrews included a chapter on this subject and I can see how it could warrant its own book. I read a few pages at the bookstore and it looks worthwhile. And if you lament that Andrews’ book doesn’t have any pictures, A Day at El Bulli is the book for you. If I had a coffee table, this would be on it. However, if you will only buy one book about El Bulli in your lifetime, I recommend you pick Ferran!
I first learned of the restaurant a couple of years ago. My husband’s boss is an honest-to-goodness gourmand. He heard we were going to Barcelona for our honeymoon and casually mentioned El Bulli. When Leo remembered this jewel of information a few days into the trip, I sent him down to the hotel reception thinking we’d get directions and walk there that night in our flip-flops. The concierge let down Leo gently. “Oh, señor, the restaurant is actually outside the city. I hear it is also quite expensive and difficult to get into.” Leo shrugged his shoulders and took me out to eat more paella instead.
Only now do I realize the full extent of the concierge’s tact. El Bulli is considered one of the world’s best restaurants. It is located on a secluded cove reached by a dangerous road. The cost for one person starts at $300. Just 0.004% of those interested get a table each year. Chef Ferran Adrià is a celebrity in the world of haute cuisine. And the food itself…
Say you really like fettuccine alfredo. You think to yourself, “When I go to El Bulli, I will order this and it will be most delicious fettuccine alfredo of my life!” Sure, except Ferran is unlikely to ever serve something that conventional. If it even crossed his mind, he would likely deconstruct the dish, turn part of it into foam, throw in some seaweed, and enjoy your expression as you stare at your plate in dismay or awe.
In all seriousness, El Bulli threw out the à la carte menu in favor of a fixed menu. It is a legendary, gastronomic experience of 30 to 35 small plates. And as Anthony Bourdain said, “You don’t go to El Bulli because you want chicken that night”. The food is, for lack of a better word, experimental. Most of it makes my mouth water: mandarin flower sorbet and parmesan dumplings with tallarines. Some of the dishes mean nothing to me: gominola of shiso. A few sound less than desirable, such as this one dish which was described as “vomitous”: sea anemone, raw rabbit brains, oysters and calamondin in a lukewarm dill broth.
All that being said, I still want to go. Will I ever get the chance? Probably not. This book is the next best thing.
Despite the fact that the author is a fancy food critic and the subject is elite, the book is not snobby. Andrews even points you to youtube to watch related comedy skits. There were many names and terms I didn’t recognize: chefs, cooking techniques, ingredients, restaurants, classic dishes. Even so, I was never discouraged and would say the book is accessible.
The book is well written. Andrews clearly did his research and is a well-connected insider. He uses quotes often, yet appropriately. Most important to me, he includes down-to earth stories and his cheeky sense of humor. I should mention that Andrews is pro-Ferran. But he is honest when he doesn’t like certain dishes. And he devotes a chapter to Ferran’s opponents, as well as intersperses their points of criticism throughout the entire book.
Although his face graces the cover and his name steals the title, the book is not solely a biography of Ferran. And the portions specific to Ferran’s life are mainly professional. You’ll meet his family and wife. Yet, refreshingly, there is no litany of past girlfriends or any dirty secrets. You will, however, get a full history of the restaurant itself, including how the property originally failed as a mini-golf course and the early party-hardy atmosphere. You’ll learn about the various personalities that have worked there. Andrews will take you back (briefly, thank goodness) to mankind’s first attempts to cook food. He explains the cooking techniques Ferran pioneered, the confusion regarding molecular gastronomy, and how food world has evolved. Andrews showcases Ferran’s outreach activities, such as collaborating with scientists at Harvard and developing easily chewed and appealing food for the elderly through his foundation. In sum, it is a very well-rounded book.
I knocked off one star, because I often found myself counting the pages until the end. This speaks more to my preference for fiction than the quality of the book.
If this book doesn’t sate your hunger, NPR recommends a more recent book about El Bulli, The Sorcerer's Apprentices which focuses on the young chefs that volunteer at the restaurant nowadays. Andrews included a chapter on this subject and I can see how it could warrant its own book. I read a few pages at the bookstore and it looks worthwhile. And if you lament that Andrews’ book doesn’t have any pictures, A Day at El Bulli is the book for you. If I had a coffee table, this would be on it. However, if you will only buy one book about El Bulli in your lifetime, I recommend you pick Ferran!
September 29, 2011
I am fascinated by the cuisine of Ferran Adria, so i had high hopes for this book. Not sure what i was hoping for exactly, but i had to believe that someone who has creating such bizarre and elegant dishes would be interesting and interesting to read about. After finishing the book, I can say that i still think that Adria is interesting, but this book is not. The author, Colman Andrews, is a long time veteran of food writing, having founded "Sauveur" magazine and been its editor for many years, but with Adria Andrews is a like a blushing school girl. There is only so many times that one can read about the sheer magnificence of Adria before it gets old. I suppose that the real problem is that Adria is a very private person, and even though he did support the writing of this book, he never really did open up to Andrews, so much of the book is based on the praise of Adria's acolytes and the attacks of his detractors. I can't really recommend this one...perhaps Adria will write his own story one day and that will be more revealing.
July 12, 2012
The latest book on world renowned Chef Ferran Adria, simply titled "Ferran," is very good overall but do not expect the average biography here.
The author, Colman Andrews, sets the book's tone from the start by declaring that his goal is not to rehash the same topics, insights, and issues that have been written ad nauseam by other writers. Instead, he aims to cover those things in Ferran's life that deserved more attention. Colman starts with Ferran's early home life and moves on chronologically to his youth, military service, first experiences in the kitchen, and his first contact with what would become El Bulli. The rest of the book moves forward in like manner, each chapter covering the next "chapter" in Ferran's life. Nothing too unusual for a biography.
But this book parts ways from the traditional biography by covering all things connected to Ferran in great detail, but including so very little from Ferran himself. His personal memories and thoughts are scattered throughout the book like seasoning. However, the bulk of the material comes from family, friends, colleagues, reporters, critics, the author's personal observations, other written works, etc. In light of the fact that the book starts with a quote from Ferran himself declaring this book to be the final biography that he will collaborate on, you would expect the book to feel more personal. But it does not. Yet, this does not detract from the book's usefulness as a history of the man himself. And since this was indeed the author's goal--giving substantial time to those things that others have not already covered--the book should be considered a successful work!
I come away from this book thinking of it more as a primer in Chef Ferran Adria's life. You will get a grand overview of his life from his earliest beginnings to the present. You will come away from this book wanting to know more, and wanting to delve deeper into his psyche. If you've never heard of Chef Ferran Adria, this book is where you should start. Otherwise, Ferran's own cookbooks, journals, interviews, videos, documentaries, self-made exhaustive journals of every dish ever served at El Bulli, and even the restaurant's own website, should provide you with enough Ferran-philosophy and El Bulli lore to satisfy your needs.
The author, Colman Andrews, sets the book's tone from the start by declaring that his goal is not to rehash the same topics, insights, and issues that have been written ad nauseam by other writers. Instead, he aims to cover those things in Ferran's life that deserved more attention. Colman starts with Ferran's early home life and moves on chronologically to his youth, military service, first experiences in the kitchen, and his first contact with what would become El Bulli. The rest of the book moves forward in like manner, each chapter covering the next "chapter" in Ferran's life. Nothing too unusual for a biography.
But this book parts ways from the traditional biography by covering all things connected to Ferran in great detail, but including so very little from Ferran himself. His personal memories and thoughts are scattered throughout the book like seasoning. However, the bulk of the material comes from family, friends, colleagues, reporters, critics, the author's personal observations, other written works, etc. In light of the fact that the book starts with a quote from Ferran himself declaring this book to be the final biography that he will collaborate on, you would expect the book to feel more personal. But it does not. Yet, this does not detract from the book's usefulness as a history of the man himself. And since this was indeed the author's goal--giving substantial time to those things that others have not already covered--the book should be considered a successful work!
I come away from this book thinking of it more as a primer in Chef Ferran Adria's life. You will get a grand overview of his life from his earliest beginnings to the present. You will come away from this book wanting to know more, and wanting to delve deeper into his psyche. If you've never heard of Chef Ferran Adria, this book is where you should start. Otherwise, Ferran's own cookbooks, journals, interviews, videos, documentaries, self-made exhaustive journals of every dish ever served at El Bulli, and even the restaurant's own website, should provide you with enough Ferran-philosophy and El Bulli lore to satisfy your needs.
April 4, 2013
As much a history of El Bulli as it was a biography of Ferran Adria, it's lauded chef, and more enjoyable for being so. This is a great gateway read for foodies who would like to know more about this man and his restaurant without diving into the science and technique of what they are so famous for. It is amazing that El Bulli, before Ferran and early in his tenure, was often without customers for days on end; and even at the end was losing money every season.
Ferran is hardly the only character in the story - the original owners, Dr Shilling and his wife Marketta had a vision that they could build a Michelin 3-star restaurant in a sleepy coastal town. They separated, Marketta lived out her days at El Bulli, and the Dr. continued to be involved as well. He made sure his people were experiencing what was happening in fine dining around Europe and always wanted the best for his restaurant. The director of the dining room, Juli Soler, co-owns El Bulli with Ferran and has his own wild idiosyncracies.
As for Ferran, his experiences cooking for a Spanish Admiral and his family were amusing, and also led to his working at El Bulli. He started there because he thought that working beachside would be great for partying, which it certainly was. He and his fellow chefs ripped it up in their early years. He took great inspiration working one off-season with a sculptor friend, and considers the design world to be the arena that has influenced him the most. In 1996, Joel Robuchon called him "the best cook on the planet," at which time everything truly changed, including the party-atmosphere at El Bulli (good for me, but not for thee...). His commitment to his foundation, to spanish cuisine, to his collaboration with Harvard, etc was very interesting to learn as well.
Ferran is hardly the only character in the story - the original owners, Dr Shilling and his wife Marketta had a vision that they could build a Michelin 3-star restaurant in a sleepy coastal town. They separated, Marketta lived out her days at El Bulli, and the Dr. continued to be involved as well. He made sure his people were experiencing what was happening in fine dining around Europe and always wanted the best for his restaurant. The director of the dining room, Juli Soler, co-owns El Bulli with Ferran and has his own wild idiosyncracies.
As for Ferran, his experiences cooking for a Spanish Admiral and his family were amusing, and also led to his working at El Bulli. He started there because he thought that working beachside would be great for partying, which it certainly was. He and his fellow chefs ripped it up in their early years. He took great inspiration working one off-season with a sculptor friend, and considers the design world to be the arena that has influenced him the most. In 1996, Joel Robuchon called him "the best cook on the planet," at which time everything truly changed, including the party-atmosphere at El Bulli (good for me, but not for thee...). His commitment to his foundation, to spanish cuisine, to his collaboration with Harvard, etc was very interesting to learn as well.
March 31, 2012
This authorized biography of Ferran was written within 2 years and preceded by long-time friendship between the author and the chef. It came out in the perfect timing, the disclosure of Ferran's plan to close elBulli and to turn it into a (research, educative, art?) foundation.
Throughout the book, care has been given to give balanced narration between the restaurant's history, the unfolding of the gastronomic world during the same period, and the story of Ferran himself. I haven't read much about Ferran previously, so I can't judge whether the author succeeded in his conscious effort to retell the story of the well-documented, celebrated chef without too much redundancy to similar efforts in the past. But I sense that the flow is quite smooth and the material solid, being quite instructive without any gaping holes. There is also a section dedicated to the critics of Ferran, with proper respect and genuine interest to hear their sides of the story, represented by the voice of no less than Ferran's nemesis, (the recently deceased) Santi Santamaria.
Overall, this demystification of elBulli and Ferran has been an entertaining and informative reading for me.
Throughout the book, care has been given to give balanced narration between the restaurant's history, the unfolding of the gastronomic world during the same period, and the story of Ferran himself. I haven't read much about Ferran previously, so I can't judge whether the author succeeded in his conscious effort to retell the story of the well-documented, celebrated chef without too much redundancy to similar efforts in the past. But I sense that the flow is quite smooth and the material solid, being quite instructive without any gaping holes. There is also a section dedicated to the critics of Ferran, with proper respect and genuine interest to hear their sides of the story, represented by the voice of no less than Ferran's nemesis, (the recently deceased) Santi Santamaria.
Overall, this demystification of elBulli and Ferran has been an entertaining and informative reading for me.
November 16, 2011
While Colman Andrews' prose was clear and unobjectionable, I must admit that parts of this book dragged for me. On one hand, the descriptions of the specific dishes made at El Bulli, as well as the overviews of dinner services, the operations of talier (the restaurant's famed culinary laboratory), the revolutionary culinary techniques pioneered by the El Bulli staff, and the insights into the financial end of the business were all quite engaging; on the other, certain elements, such as the extensive biographical sections and the florid descriptions of Ferran's genius, were somewhat tiresome. That said, I'm more than willing to acknowledge that I'm not by nature a reader of biographies, so other readers may likely have the exact opposite response.
January 8, 2015
Nicely structured, and a fascinating story of how the conditions were built to provide a space where creativity can happen. Especially for someone who clearly has the impulse like the famous Catalan chef. The author sheds light on some of the degrees and layers of...not isolation, maybe distinction...that led to what El Bulli became. An odd, out-of-the-way restaurant. Owners that wanted to make it something spectacular and unique. In a region of Spain that proudly sees itself as apart (Catalonia). A local guy with a creative spark, endless curiosity, and full license to explore. It doesn't happen very often. And it was a fun read just as elBulliFounadtion launches.
December 27, 2010
I'm about 3/4 through this but his story is amazing.Chefs like Thomas Keller,Charlie Trotter and Marco Pierre White have changed the way the culinary world looks at,and how to make food.But he blows by them in a Ferrari past a Prius.He not only analyzes food in a unique way,but life.I've eaten at awesome places and can describe the food,but reading what I have over the years I couldn't have words to describe what he does.Reviewers have problems with this and they ate there.He's considered the best chef on the planet,so he's closing El Bulli for two years to re-invent it.
May 24, 2012
While I admire Ferran Adria's food and usually love behind-the-scenes food memoirs and other food-related books, this book managed to make the history of one of the world's most interesting restaurants a slog to finish. The author is obviously enamored with Ferran (and very pleased with himself to have gotten the access that he did), but the resulting book is a boring narrative rather than an engaging story.
March 22, 2011
A good read, even if the middle section gets somewhat bogged down with minutiae. If you're predisposed to hate the idea of El Bulli's foam-and-fuss style of of cuisine, I think the book offers a pretty balanced counterpoint. Andrews' writing is best when he's documenting the actual behind-the-scenes goings-on inside the kitchen or when he's describing food.
July 23, 2017
Throughly enjoyed this book! It was a page turner for me, but I could see how it might not be for all. Having spent time in the area (Roses), along with my interest in Catalan culture and food, it was a winner for me. Lisa Abend's book about ElBulli would be the perfect book to read as a preface. Merci´
November 19, 2016
At times bogged down with the minutia of Day to day operations at El Bulli and of Ferran's life. Yet, I found Ferran so down to earth and interesting! His story is inspiring and his creativity is fascinating. I read the book and listened to the audio- the Audio narrator was so boring! It's a good fortune that Ferran Adria's story is so amazing otherwise this would have been a boring journey.
January 8, 2018
For anyone interested in avant-garde cuisine, I highly recommend this book. I picked it up because I was interested in Ferran Adria specifically, but I learned so much about the history of contemporary cuisine, and even more about Spanish and Catalan cuisine. It's very well written, about people instead of places, and gives great insight into the world of food, restaurants, and critics.
June 23, 2016
Slow. Ferran has done so many exciting things and made so many great accomplishments as a chef. This author doesn't use the language for any of that to come across. The last 2 pages show a glimpse into how the mind if this great chef works.
May 4, 2013
Becomeing the "Best Chef in the World" is not an overnight feat. The book does a good job of outlining how what began as a beachside restaurant evolved into the top world dining venue. Certainly the German backer was a resource and mentor who is seldom mentioned.
August 3, 2016
Finished late Nov / early Dec 2013
This book dispelled a lot of the myths / prejudices I had against "molecular gastronomy." I enjoyed reading about Ferran's creative process and almost academic approach to cuisine.
This book dispelled a lot of the myths / prejudices I had against "molecular gastronomy." I enjoyed reading about Ferran's creative process and almost academic approach to cuisine.
October 18, 2010
As much a history of the restaurant as of the man. Engaging, well-written.
Read
March 24, 2018CRAZY stuff. Kinda put me in a food rut, I mean, how do I begin to find that kind of inspiration and creativity?
July 21, 2011
This was intereting to me because cooking is one of my hobbies and as a chemist I have a particular interest in molecular gastronomy. The book was a bit repetitive at times.
May 31, 2012
Really interesting biography of the man behind a revolution in cooking. It evokes vivid images of the scenes it describes and makes you feel that you got into Adriá's mind.
September 11, 2012
Really gets behind the man and the restaurant, shows you who Ferran really is, and it's nothing like the hype
August 13, 2012
I'm glad I read it because it is a great history book - but it was boring and I only understood and half of if with all the Spanish and French terminology. But I learned a ton.
April 13, 2013
A biography. Read it if you want to learn about elBulli and Ferran's professional life. Don;t expect any insights. Again, it is a biography book.
November 1, 2013
Not one of my fav foodie, Chef biographies. Actually didn't finish it. Just didn't hold my interest like the other Chef biographies that I've completed. Was 'tedious'.
June 7, 2014
I just want to eat at El Bulli! So romantical and whimsical!
October 22, 2016
I found this book to be repetitive and pedantic. It was interesting in places, but unfortunately was about 100 pages too long.
December 30, 2015
A bit slow but a very interesting read.
June 8, 2018
3.5 stars. Parts are super interesting but parts are a bit boring.
April 4, 2021
Who wouldn't want to know more about the greatest chef of our time? I know I would. Even though I never made it to el Bulli, it is a restaurant I have dreamt about many times. And to learn more about its creator, Ferran Adria was as good as having one of his culinary masterpieces, or so I would assume. It's a very well-written book full of insights and information about Ferran. If you enjoy eating dishes that showcase molecular gastronomy, you must read this book to understand how the trend started.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 38 reviews